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Global textile certification body Oeko-Tex spotlighted sustainability and transparency at Intertextile Shanghai Apparel Fabrics – Autumn Edition (Sept 2–5), participating as a lead exhibitor and voice in Messe Frankfurt’s Econogy platform. The company is marking a decade of its Made in Green label while tackling the challenges posed by fast fashion.
Speaking on the sidelines, Dr. Alfred J. Beerli, CEO of Oeko-Tex, outlined how the organization is tightening its focus on traceability, chemical safety, and circularity, even as fast fashion growth challenges the industry’s sustainability goals.
“Oeko-Tex is one of the oldest certification schemes worldwide — more than 34 years in the market,” Dr. Beerli said. “We started with the Standard 100, which made us very popular, and today 17 institutes worldwide collaborate with us to test garments, leather products, and textiles for leading brands.”
Three decades of certification
Over its 30-year history, Oeko-Tex has issued more than 235,000 certificates globally. The system is built on three core standards:
● Standard 100: This original product-level certification tests textiles for harmful substances, making Oeko-Tex a globally recognized name.
● STeP (Sustainable Textile and Leather Production): A facility- and process-level standard that audits occupational health and safety, fair wages, and environmental management.
● Made in Green: Celebrating its 10th anniversary in 2025, this consumer-facing label combines the other two standards. It provides traceability through a QR code that allows shoppers to track a product back to its manufacturing facility and raw materials. Over 600 facilities worldwide are currently Made in Green certified.
Dr. Beerli described the label as "one of the most premium tools in the market for sustainable textiles and apparel."
Sustainability as a journey, not a badge
The Oeko-Tex CEO stressed that certification is not just a marketing tick-box but a pathway to better business. “It’s a way of operational excellence. You learn your processes better, optimize inputs and outputs, save energy and water, and treat your people fairly. While certification should not be seen as a quick fix to attract more business, it undeniably makes manufacturers more attractive to global brands.”
He added that certification “somehow” prepares manufacturers for emerging compliance regimes worldwide, but the real value lies in efficiency, responsibility, and trust.
Navigating complex compliance
The regulatory landscape is shifting fast. Europe has led on chemical and sustainability laws, though some targets for 2027 are already being recalibrated. Meanwhile, consumer concern is rising sharply in the U.S., especially over PFAS and toxic chemical residues.
“Trusted solutions are becoming indispensable,” Dr. Beerli said. “Oeko-Tex® offers a framework that aligns with these growing demands, not just in Europe but globally.”
Navigating complex regulations and the "Polyester Problem"
Circularity, central to Messe Frankfurt’s Econogy theme, was a focal point in Dr. Beerli’s remarks. But he cautioned that industry ambitions face a raw material reality. “Most garments today are polyester-infected. If we want a truly sustainable future, we need pure fabrics. Multi-fiber blends make circularity almost impossible at scale.”
While acknowledging innovations in fiber separation and recycling, he stressed that scalability remains the bottleneck. “The whole industry has to change — starting with the fiber,” he said.
Asia at the core, India rising
Asia is Oeko-Tex’s biggest market, led by China, followed by India, where adoption is accelerating. Though Oeko-Tex does not operate labs in China or India, all testing is conducted at its 17 partner institutes in Europe and Japan to maintain consistent quality.
“China has the full supply chain at scale,” Dr. Beerli said. “India also has the full supply chain, but not yet to the same maturity. Still, we see rising ESG preparedness, good penetration, and very strong potential.”
The Road Ahead: India Summit
Looking ahead, Oeko-Tex will host its India Summit in December 2025, bringing together leading fiber, yarn, and fabric producers. Organized in collaboration with its Indian representation, the summit aims to align the country’s suppliers with the evolving global ESG and sustainability compliance agenda.
“It will be an Indian event, with all the famous names of the supply chain present,” Dr. Beerli confirmed. “I am a big supporter of collaboration, because no single organization can cover the whole world. We have to work together and find new solutions for the future of our planet.”
As sustainability regulation tightens worldwide and fast fashion consumption accelerates, Oeko-Tex positions itself as both watchdog and enabler. “We cannot save the world alone,” Dr. Beerli reflected. “But we can help manufacturers become better — and provide consumers with the transparency they increasingly demand.”
Global fiber production is set to expand with synthetic fibers steadily increasing their dominance over natural materials, according to the 2025 Materials Market Report by Textile Exchange. While wood-pulp-based cellulosic fibers have remained stable, the report registers a marginal growth in the overall share of recycled fibers, with the exception of the wool segment.
The report says, in 2024, global fiber production grew by 6.5 per cent to reach 132 million tons Synthetic fibers accounted for a massive 69 per cent of the total, up nine percentage points from 2020. Polyester alone made up 59 per cent of global output, reaching 78 million tons in 2024, and its production continues to rise. Recycled polyester also saw a modest increase, from 8.9 million tons to 9.3 million tons. Polyamide (nylon) remained the second most-produced synthetic fiber, representing 5 per cent of global output.
Cotton's share in the declined from 20 per cent in 2023 to 19 per cent in 2024, with virgin cotton production at 24.1 million tons.
Despite this decline, the report noted a positive trend: the percentage of cotton certified to sustainability standards increased to 34 per cent from 28 per cent in the previous year. Recycled cotton remained stable at just 1 per cent of global production, or 300,000 tons.
The third-largest fiber group, Cellulosics maintained a 6 per cent global market share, totaling 8.4 million tons in 2024. Recycled volumes within this category saw a slight increase.
Other plant-based fibers accounted for 6.9 million tons, with jute making up 54 per cent of the total, followed by cotton fiber at 26 per cent. Flax and hemp together represented just 0.5% of global fiber production.
Animal fibers continued to make up only 1 per cent of total global production. Wool accounted for 0.9 per cent, and the share of recycled wool grew from 6 per cent to 7 per cent, reaching 83,000 tons. Cashmere, mohair, and alpaca maintained marginal market shares.
Why is Citi Trends presenting at the Global Consumer & Retail Conference? Find out what this off-price retailer's CEO and CFO will discuss.
A top off-price retailer of clothing, accessories and home goods, Citi Trends, Inc is set to be the presenter at the first-ever Global Consumer & Retail Conference.
Hosted by Telsey Advisory Group and Santander Corporate & Investment Banking, the event will be held in New York City on October 8, 2025.
Ken Seipel, CEO, and Heather Plutino, CFO, Citi Trends will represent the company at the conference. A live webcast of their presentation will be available on the cititrends.com website under the Investor Relations section. An archived version will be accessible online for 90 days after the event.
Citi Trends, Inc is a leading value retailer in the United States, primarily serving African American families. The company currently operates 590 stores across 33 states.
India's Directorate General of Trade Remedies (DGTR) has recommended an anti-dumping duty (ADD) of $102–173 per ton on Mono Ethylene Glycol (MEG) imported from Gulf nations and Singapore. However, the downstream textile industry has cautioned the government against accepting the recommendation, warning, it would hinder the growth of the man-made fiber (MMF) textile and apparel sectors. This comes right after a GST cut on the MMF value chain had boosted prospects for industry expansion.
The DGTR concluded, MEG imports from Kuwait, Saudi Arabia, and Singapore were being ‘dumped’ in the Indian market, causing harm to local producers. These findings follow a year-long investigation initiated at the request of the Chemicals and Petrochemicals Manufacturers Association of India (CPMA), primarily backed by Reliance Industries (RIL).
The investigation began last September after allegations that exporters from Kuwait, Saudi Arabia, and Singapore were selling MEG in India at unfairly low prices. MEG is a key raw material for polyester yarns, PET resins, and antifreeze, making it vital for India’s textile and packaging industries. RIL, which accounts for over 70–80 per cent of domestic production, argued that low-priced imports had depressed local prices and hurt its profitability.
The DGTR determined, exporters from these countries sold MEG at prices significantly below their normal value, with dumping margins ranging from 20–50 per cent. It found, despite increased domestic capacity, unfairly priced imports had undercut prices and eroded profitability for Indian producers.
Supported by the CPMA, RIL claimed, government intervention in Gulf markets distorted raw material costs, giving exporters an unfair advantage. Exporters, however, maintained that their prices reflected true market conditions and attributed the decline to global price trends rather than dumping.
Following the DGTR's recommendations, the proposed anti-dumping duty on MEG would range from $102–173 per ton, or about Rs 9–15 per kg.
RK Vij, Secretary General, Polyester Textile Apparel Industry Association (PTAIA), states, Indian MEG is already costlier by Rs 4–5 per kg. The proposed duty will further increase the price by another Rs 4–5 per kg. The government should not accept the recommendations, as it will hamper the growth of the entire textile value chain.
The rationalized GST has brightened prospects for the MMF textile industry. India can expect rapid growth in the MMF segment after the GST cut. But the proposed duty will nullify these benefits, he adds. If the government accepts the recommendations, yarn and fabric imports will rise from China and other countries, and the Indian MMF textile and garment industry will struggle to compete globally.
Vij notes, industry representatives plan to meet with Finance Minister Nirmala Sitharaman to urge the government not to impose the recommended anti-dumping duties. MEG manufacturers have attempted to push for such duties before, but the government had rejected those measures.
The Competition Commission of India (CCI) has approved the acquisition of OC Oerlikon Textile Holding AG and Oerlikon Textile Inc. by Rieter Holding AG and Rieter North America Inc.
This deal gives Rieter sole control over the acquired companies.
Headquartered in Switzerland, Rieter Holding AG is a global manufacturer of textile machinery and components. Listed on the Six Swiss Exchange, the company develops and produces systems used to convert staple fibers like cotton into yarn.
Collectively known as Targets, the acquired companies specialize in spinning systems for making filaments and man-made fibers, texturing machines and non-woven solutions.
The Targets operate under the well-known brands Oerlikon Barmag, Oerlikon Neumag, and Oerlikon Nonwoven.
At a time when corporate sustainability has moved from a fringe concern to a core business metric, a disconnect is emerging between a company's public-facing sustainability efforts and its on-the-ground operations. Brands are dedicating significant budgets to producing meticulously crafted sustainability reports, while the very operational issues they claim to be addressing remain uncorrected.
It’s a paradox of our times: brands are spending more on reporting sustainability than actually implementing it. The result: impressive documents, glowing press releases, and award-winning presentations that mask the stubborn reality wasteful overproduction, missed targets, and untraceable supply chains.
The numbers behind the paradox
A recent industry survey revealed a telling statistic: 64 per cent of fashion executives say their sustainability budgets are spent more on reporting and communication than on operational change. The irony is striking. Reports, once designed as tools for transparency, have become a product in themselves an entire industry of consultants, auditors, and communications specialists thriving on ESG narratives. But the consequences are serious. Only 23 per cent of global brands are on track to meet their 2030 sustainability targets. The reason is simple: reports don’t cut emissions or reduce overproduction. Operations do.
The cost of standing still
Nowhere is this clearer than in overproduction, fashion’s Achilles’ heel. An estimated 30-40 per cent of all clothing made is never sold. Each unsold shirt or dress represents wasted cotton, polyester, water, dyes, energy, labor, and shipping fuel, only to end up in discount bins, landfills, or incinerators.
Operational reform tighter supply chains, demand-driven production, smaller runs could drastically reduce this waste. But these fixes require deep restructuring and tough trade-offs, unlike commissioning another glossy PDF.
H&M’s conscious illusion
Few stories illustrate the gap between promise and practice better than H&M. The fast-fashion giant has touted its Conscious Collection and in-store garment recycling program as proof of its green credentials. Both initiatives feature prominently in its sustainability reports. Yet, an investigation by the Changing Markets Foundation found that 96 per cent of H&M’s green claims were misleading. And less than 1 per cent of garments collected through its recycling program were actually recycled into new clothes. The rest were downcycled, exported, or discarded. The glossy reports and campaigns built brand reputation. The operational reality told another story.
Outside fashion, the paradox holds. Coca-Cola pledged to use 50 per cent recycled content in packaging by 2030. By 2025, the company quietly scaled back the goal to 35 per cent, citing a lack of recycling infrastructure. The rollback was noted, but the company’s annual reports still spotlight ambitious sustainability language. Meanwhile, Coca-Cola continues to top the charts as the world’s number one plastic polluter. These examples highlight the crux of the paradox: investing in brand image over operational overhaul.
The shift, from reports to results
Industry experts argue that sustainability’s real ROI comes from action, not PDFs. The next frontier lies in six clear strategies:
Tackle overproduction: Align design and demand forecasting to make only what can be sold.
Embed data daily: Integrate sustainability metrics into everyday workflows, not just annual reports.
Invest in traceability: Direct budgets toward tools that verify impact, like blockchain-enabled supply chain mapping.
Operational KPIs, not PR goals: Track measurable outcomes such as the percentage of circular designs rather than vague promises.
Automate compliance: Let tech generate reports as a byproduct of efficient systems, not as a stand-alone effort.
Engage the ecosystem: Work with suppliers, customers, and partners to build resale, repair, and recycling models.
Rethinking the budget equation
What if companies redirected even half their reporting budgets into operations? Analysts suggest the gains could be significant: fewer unsold goods, real emissions cuts, better supplier accountability, and more genuine consumer trust. The paradox, in the end, is a leadership test. Reports may win headlines, but operations win long-term survival. As regulations tighten and consumer skepticism deepens, the brands that shift from storytelling to action will define the next decade of business leadership. The sustainability paradox asks a simple but profound question: Do we want to look sustainable or be sustainable?
Official sports brand of the United States Polo Association (USPA), US Polo Assn was roped in as the Official Apparel Partner of the XV Federation of International Polo (FIP) European Polo Championship, held from August 26 to September 7 at the Sowiniec Polo Club in Mosina, Poland.
US Polo Assn dressed players and umpires in custom-designed performance jerseys and branded caps, alongside field signage and branded on-site activations for event attendees, bringing the brand's authenticity and sport-inspired style to the tournament.
US Polo Assn.'s support of the XV Federation of International Polo European Polo Championship as the Official Apparel Partner exemplifies everything the company stands for as a global sports brand, says J Michael Prince, CEO and President, USPA Global, manager of the global, multi-billion-dollar U.S. Polo Assn. brand. The company also plans to launch the US Polo Assn brand in Poland in early 2026, avers Prince.
A standout partner to the Federation of International Polo for the past nine years, US Polo Assn helps elevate the visibility and professionalism of their most important tournaments, notes Alex Taylor, Executive Board Member, FIP. The brand's support has been instrumental in bringing the European Polo Championship to Poland, a country with a rich polo legacy and a growing community of athletes and sports fans, he adds.
First held in 1993, the XV FIP European Polo Championship highlighted polo's century-old history in Poland dating back to 1911. Today, with nearly 100 active players and a growing interest, Poland serves as an exciting new host for this major international sporting event.
Leading online resale platform for apparel, shoes, and accessories, ThredUp has announced a complete rebrand. The redesign features a new user experience and innovative product features aimed at reinforcing its position in the now-mainstream secondhand market.
With three out of four consumers now shopping for secondhand items, ThredUp is leaning into its leadership role with an intuitive new platform. It combines a clean, modern aesthetic with powerful, proprietary AI technology. The rebrand reflects the company's growth from an affordability-focused startup into a major player in the circular fashion movement.
Since their founding in 2009, ThredUp has worked to transform how people think about and shop for secondhand clothing, says James Reinhart, Cofounder and CEO, ThredUp. The new brand identity and AI features align the business with customer expectations to make secondhand shopping and selling more seamless and personalized, he adds.
Designed to be cleaner and more elevated, the new ThredUp look features a new ‘infinity’ emblem that symbolizes circularity. The emblem forms a ‘T’ like a thread, representing both the company's name and the connection people have to the sustainable fashion movement.
Kristen Brophy, Senior Vice President -Marketing, ThredUp, states, the new brand identity is a bold step forward in the platform’s mission to reimagine how fashion is consumed.
The rebrand is a result of strategic investments in AI-driven tools. New features include a personalized daily curation of 100 items, a weekly report on fast-growing trends, and advanced AI-powered search for personalized recommendations. The platform has also improved the quality and number of product photos with zoom capabilities and more accurate measurements to increase buyer confidence.
Having processed over 250 million unique secondhand items, ThredUp continues to transform the resale market by making it easier to buy and sell, driving a more sustainable future for fashion.
Indian garment exporters are increasingly relocating their production to East African nations, with prominent companies like Gokaldas Exports and Raymond Lifestyle leading the charge. This strategic shift is a direct response to recent changes in global trade policies, most notably the imposition of high tariffs by the United States on goods from India.
The primary reason for this move is a reported 50 per cent US tariff on Indian exports, allegedly a penalty for India's continued purchase of Russian oil. This steep tariff has made Indian garments significantly less competitive in the American market, forcing exporters to find alternative manufacturing locations to maintain profitability and service their US clients.
East African countries such as Ethiopia and Kenya have become appealing alternatives. They offer a significant advantage through trade agreements like the US African Growth and Opportunity Act (AGOA), which provides them with duty-free or low-tariff access to the US market. This offers a substantial cost benefit compared to the high tariffs faced by Indian goods.
In addition to trade benefits, East Africa presents other attractive factors. Wages in some of these countries are considerably lower than in India - reportedly as low as one-third of Indian labor costs - which helps reduce overall production expenses. Furthermore, African governments are actively working to attract foreign investment by offering incentives like tax breaks, land concessions, and streamlined regulations. The region also boasts a young and growing workforce, providing a large labor pool for the labor-intensive garment industry.
However, logistics can be a major hurdle, especially for landlocked countries like Ethiopia, where transporting goods to and from ports can be both time-consuming and expensive. The lack of a robust local upstream industry means manufacturers must often import raw materials like fabrics, which can increase lead times and costs.
Indian companies also need to renegotiate terms with their American buyers, some of whom may be wary of receiving products from new, less-familiar locations due to potential disruptions or quality control issues. Political instability in some parts of East Africa adds another layer of risk for foreign investors.
Maharashtra is set to establish six new technical textile parks, one in each revenue division, as a part of a strategic push to become a major hub for advanced textiles. This announcement was made by Sanjay Savkare, State Textile Minister at the TAG 2025 Annual Textile Conference.
Savkare emphasized, the state government is focused on attracting both domestic and foreign investment while boosting its capacity for R&D, infrastructure, and skilled labor. It has also created a task force to gather feedback from stakeholders and enhance Maharashtra's export competitiveness, he informed. Anshu Sinha, Principal Secretary, Textiles, emphasized on the importance of collaboration between industry, academia, and government to maintain the state's leading position.
The conference also released the the FICCI–Wazir Advisors Annual Textile Industry Report that provided key insights into the global textile and apparel (T&A) market. According to this report, the worldwide T&A trade increased by 5 per cent to $893 billion in 2024. Meanwhile, currently valued at $1.8 trillion, the global apparel market is projected to grow to $2.3 trillion by 2030.
Despite India’s strong domestic T&A market, which stood at $184 billion in FY25 with $37 billion in exports, the industry faces significant challenges due to the recently imposed 50 per cent US tariffs on Indian goods.
To overcome this, the report recommends garment-led investments as the anchor for India's growth. It suggests, moving into apparel manufacturing through foreign direct investment (FDI), global partnerships, and government schemes like PLI and PM MITRA Parks can improve value addition, create jobs, and make India a more competitive sourcing hub.
The report also emphasizes on the importance of innovation and sustainability, flagging weak R&D and the lack of Free Trade Agreements (FTAs) with key markets as major bottlenecks. Industry leaders at the conference expressed a shared belief that a combination of strategic investments, a focus on sustainability, and global alliances will help India withstand tariff challenges and emerge as a leading sourcing destination by 2030.
