FW
Sevin Kasran’s design language merges the modern and the traditional. This streetwear brand founded in British Columbia in 2017 brings to the fore designs that are stemmed in Indian beliefs and principles but are global. It offers lounge pants, bomber jackets, slogan T-shirts and jumpers. Festive colors and prints are translated into easy streetwear that doubles up as both staples as well as statement pieces. Vivid color palettes and Indian motifs are inspired by the principles of non-violence, integrity, and pride. The aim is that the bright colors in Indian culture and ceremonies should not be reserved for traditional events but for people to embrace in their everyday lives through fashion. The design aesthetic is not to make a strictly consumable and marketable garment, but rather a piece of art that has a story and meaning behind it.
Asian streetwear has grown in popularity around the globe because it is of an increasingly high standard. The world is looking east because of the tremendous amount of young talent that has emerged in recent years. It is a reflection of Asia rising. The big increase in the worldwide popularity of Asian streetwear has been further helped by fashion bloggers and others in the online and social media sphere. These individuals are increasingly focusing on Asian designers, who had previously been ignored by established fashion publications.
Chinese trading company Shandong Ruyi is having difficulties paying off debts. A textile group from Bangladesh, Valleycot Marketing, bought 7,000 tons of cotton from Shandong Ruyi between 2016 and 2017 but the Chinese company delivered only a portion of that order. Valleycot initiated arbitration against Shandong Ruyi and was awarded compensation but Shandong has not paid even part of it. Shandong was then placed on an industry blacklist, adding it to the list of companies that have failed to pay arbitration awards connected to corporate disputes. The move has the potential to freeze Shandong Ruyi’s access to purchasing cotton from major suppliers and squeeze production at its brands.
Shandong Ruyi was founded as a textile manufacturer in northern China in the 1970s but began rapidly expanding into the world of fashion starting in 2015. Many Chinese groups which made costly overseas acquisitions in recent years, have struggled to manage, and pay for, their new global empires. Shandong Ruyi has bought global brands in recent years including France-based SMCP, UK clothing maker Aquascutum and Savile Row tailor Gieves & Hawkes. As a result, its total debt ballooned. Over a period of three years Shandong Ruyi agreed to more than 15 global acquisitions that eventually put it in control of a long list of name brands.
BenQ materials is excited to announce the launch of Xpore, a ground-breaking new technology for waterproof and breathable textiles. Xpore is the first to bring genuine innovation in waterproof and breathable technology for consistent years, providing not only comfort with an unprecedented “beyond dry” experience but also environmentally-friendly safety. Xpore, a refinement of BenQ Material’s AirySektor concept has almost limitless applications in performance clothing, home care, and medical care. Xpore technology is ideal for natural fiber fabrics, such as silk, wool, and cotton, and even for special fabrics requested by designers, such as leather.
Xpore technology is safe and free of harmful PTFE/PFCs (Polytetrafluoroethylene and Perfluorocarbons). Xpore technology also provides fully chemical solvent-free processes from membrane manufacturing to lamination. Xpore not only sets a new standard for eco-friendliness from the production process to final product but also offers true breathability together with waterproofing.
BenQ Materials' nanoporous membranes have been recognized as exceptional by the industry-leading ISPO Textrends jury panel of journalists, designers, and independent professionals. When selecting outstanding membrane and coating products, the ISPO jury placed two of BenQ Materials’ products in the top 10, and three of them in the selection category.
In independent tests, Xpore has demonstrated remarkable and significant advantages over the existing dominant technologies in this market. BenQ Materials' membrane innovations now control moisture with 10 billion nano-pores per square inch each 20,000x smaller than a water droplet and 200x larger than a water vapor molecule to keep wearers dry and comfortable in all conditions.
Certification and approval
Xpore technology materials including nanoporous membrane and glue have already received critical SGS and ITS certifications. BenQ Materials’ factory facilities already have ISO approval. Bluesign, OEKO-TEX, and TAF of laboratory approvals are in process.
C.L.A.S.S. eco hub with UN-related platform Fashion 4 Development Solutions at World Economic Forum in Davos Joining forces for betterment. With this enthusiam, C.L.A.S.S. announces its first participation at the World Economic Forum in Davos on January 21, 2020.
During the World Economic Forum in Davos, Altru Institute, the philanthropic think tank that supports organizations addressing global humanitarian issues and Fashion 4 Development, the global platform in support of the United Nations Sustainable Development Goals have organized the summit Sustania Living The New Fashion and invited C.L.A.S.S. founder and CEO Giusy Bettoni to join a team of experts and agents of Change in the panel ‘Sustainability & Global Empowerment’. In the panel also Canopy founder Nicole Rycroft, F4D Solutions managing director Jeanine Ballone and Edwina Dunn, author of The Female Lead initiative, all called for action in the global supply chain for apparel.
C.L.A.S.S. prominently participation at Davos event is part of an ongoing collaboration and common path with F4D. “The main focus of F4D Solutions and C.L.A.S.S. new goal will be to educate about the sustainable innovative solutions that are already available.” Says Jeanine Ballone. “We are very excited and honoured to contribute to this important call” - says Giusy Bettoni - and truly believe there is no sustainability without knowledge.
To trigger positive change it is fundamental to inform, educate and raise awareness on sustainable issues along the whole supply chain. From the yarn manufacturing process to the end consumer, from farmers to designers, sales managers and end consumers as well.” In Davos, it will be unveiled a research & report on sustainability in the fashion business.
The Italian National Fashion Chamber is upholding a diversity agenda among Milan’s major fashion brands, considering a year after several top Italian brands faced criticism for designs and remarks seen as culturally and racially insensitive. Its manifesto backed by major Italian fashion brands aims to increase racial and gender diversity in key roles in Milan's fashion houses, which fashion chamber president Carlo Capasa acknowledged was lagging in a recent interview with The Associated Press ahead of Milan Fashion Week.
Capasa said the Milan fashion world must work harder to attract people of colour. “If global companies want to represent the world they are targeting, they must welcome diversity and look beyond their own borders,’’ he said, citing the relative homogeneity of Italian society. Milan has lagged the other main fashion cities of Paris, New York and London in racial diversity on the runway, according to season diversity reporting by the Fashion Spot. Capasa said the stories that fashion houses want to tell are often linked to their Italian roots, and that runway choice is linked to model agencies' offerings since not all models come to Milan.
While many Milan fashion houses take their creative direction from women including Miuccia Prada, Donatella Versace, Silvia Venturini Fendi and Angela Missoni and more women than men work in the fashion industry, Capasa said efforts are needed to get more women into decision-making roles. ‘’If we look at the boards, at the CEOs, at other key roles, there might be an advantage for men,’’ Capasa said. ‘’But we don’t want to introduce quotas obligating companies to promote women. We want to create the conditions so that women can have the same chances.’’
The chamber’s manifesto does not include hard commitments. Instead, it presents concepts that ‘’will serve as a model for radical reform in terms of diversity and inclusion.’’ They were adopted by the chamber’s more than 100 members, which include most major Milan fashion houses with the notable exception of Dolce&Gabbana, and will be monitored every year for progress.
The National Cotton Council thinks the Phase 1 trade deal with China signed today by President Trump could bring in trade boost to U.S. cotton exports.
The Phase 1 agreement states a chapter on agriculture with Chinese purchases of U.S. products intended to reach at least $40 billion per year starting in 2020. Hence, the overall impact for cotton remains uncertain as commodity-specific details have not been released.
NCC Chairman Mike Tate, an Alabama cotton producer who was at the White House for the signing, said, “While we welcome Phase I and are hopeful about the potential for future increased sales to China, U.S. cotton producers continue to face a challenging economic climate. As such, we encourage President Trump and USDA to follow through with the third tranche of MFP payments as quickly as possible.”
Tate was referring to the Administration’s $16 billion trade assistance package through the Market Facilitation Program to help mitigate China’s retaliatory tariffs. He said this assistance, administered by USDA, has been very timely with U.S. cotton’s economic health deteriorating as market share in China is being lost to Brazil and Australia. The first MFP tranche of payments came in August and the second tranche in November.
“Since the middle of 2018, the ongoing trade dispute between the United States and China has been front and center in any discussion of the cotton market,” Tate said. “Cotton prices remain well below pre-dispute levels due to China’s imposition of a 25 percent retaliatory tariff. That’s why removal of these tariffs should be a high priority for any upcoming dialogue between the two countries.”
"United States will reduce the 15 per cent tariffs imposed on a wide range of Chinese consumer goods by half and also cancel another round of tariffs implemented in December. On its part, China will buy an additional $12.5 billion worth of agricultural products from the US in the first year and $19.5 billion worth of goods in second year. These purchases will be a part a broader $200 billion package that includes manufactured goods and energy exports by 2021"
Recording a milestone world-trade history, United States and China finally signed a preliminary trade deal that ended the 18-month long trade conflict between the two countries. The deal was signed between the US President Donald Trump and Chinese Vice President Liu He.
What’s in the deal
The deal states henceforth, United States will reduce the 15 per cent tariffs imposed on a wide range of Chinese consumer goods by half and also cancel another round of tariffs implemented in December. On its part, China will buy an additional $12.5 billion worth of agricultural products from the US in the first year and $19.5 billion worth of goods in second year. These purchases will be a part a broader $200 billion package that includes manufactured goods and energy exports by 2021. They will continue beyond the two-year deal into 2022 through 2025. Some of the products that China has promised to buy include soybeans, wheat, cotton and pork.
These changes will take effect within 30 days of signing of the pact. The deal protects American companies from thefts of intellectual property and trade secrets by imposing anti-counterfeiting measures on them. It also removes a barrier in the sale of US technologies and loosens up the requirements of Chinese banks wanting to operate in the country. However, while China has agreed to purchase more US products, it has not made any specific commitments to reduce tariffs imposed on the US.
NRF welcomes the deal
US’ National Retail Federation has welcomed the signing of this trade agreement. “We support the US administration’s efforts to address the unfair trade practices adopted by China,” said Matthew Shay, CEO of the federation hoping that this is the first step taken by the government towards eliminating all tariffs imposed over the past two years. “The trade war won’t be over until all of these tariffs are gone,” he added.
Thumbs down from apparel industry
However, the apparel and footwear industry isn’t too pleased with this deal. “It provides the apparel and footwear industry with very limited tariff relief following the biggest tariff increase since the Great Depression,” said Steve Lamar, President and CEO of the American Apparel & Footwear Association (AAFA). “Tariffs will continue to hit all our products including 92 per cent of the apparel, 53 per cent of the footwear, 68 per cent of the home textiles, and all of the travel goods and accessories that are imported from China, which is the primary source of these products. Not only does the deal retain the tariffs on key imports of materials and machinery used to make clothing, footwear, and textiles in the US, it also allows China to impose huge retaliatory tariffs on American exports of cotton, hides, leather, textiles, shoes, and clothing,” added Lamar. The tariffs can thus be used as an enforcement mechanism, leading to new tariffs at any time. “It cannot be an effective way to change policies and practices in China,” highlighted Lamar.
Established in 1967, Kingtex is a Taiwan-based textile machinery manufacturer involved in making knitting and sewing machines. Yutin Wang, Special Assistant to the President, elaborates on the company’s operations and its future plans.
“Knitting is our core strength area,” says Yutin Wang, Special Assistant to the President of Kingtex-a Taiwan based textile machinery manufacturer. The company manufactures knitting and sewing machines from its unit in Taiwan. “We manufacture all our machines in Taiwan, which ensures a more superior quality than of machines made in China,” adds Wang.
The prices of these machines are also lower than those made by Japanese manufacturers though their quality is on par with Japanese machines. “Taiwanese employees are also more loyal than Chinese employees. Each of our employees has been working with us for over 20 years,” states Wang.
Kingtex’s business is spread across the world. “Besides selling in Ethiopia, we also operate in the South Asia, China, Thailand and Vietnam market. We now aim to increase our visibility in the Indian market where we have been operating for the last 30 years,” notes Wang.
Kingtex will embark on its Indian expansion by selling its machines in the Tirupur market. “Tirupur is more accepting than the Ludhiana market which is not aware of our quality and brand,” says Wang. “To make headway into this market, we need to acquaint our customers in the city with the advantage of collaborating with us,” she adds.
For Kingtex, the Indian market holds great significance as it enables the brand to establish itself faster. However, the Chinese and US markets are also improving, The brand believes that the business mood in 2020 will be same as in 2019. “There won’t be much of an improvement as of now,” says Wang.
"Giving tough competition to Bangladesh, Ethiopia has emerged strong as a sourcing destination for apparels. However, how much Bangladesh needs to fear its new rival is a question being raised by many experts. The Ethiopian government is investing lots of efforts in promoting its apparel industry. The country is investing in various economic incentives including construction of industrial parks for garment manufacturing besides positioning itself as one of the world’s top exporters of textile and garments."
Giving tough competition to Bangladesh, Ethiopia has emerged strong as a sourcing destination for apparels. However, how much Bangladesh needs to fear its new rival is a question being raised by many experts. The Ethiopian government is investing lots of efforts in promoting its apparel industry. The country is investing in various economic incentives including construction of industrial parks for garment manufacturing besides positioning itself as one of the world’s top exporters of textile and garments.
These efforts are reaping rich benefits as a range of international apparel brands including H&M, Calvin Klein and Tommy Hilfiger are setting up their factories for manufacturing low-cost garments in the new industrial parks. This has also boosted the country’s clothing exports aiming for to $30 billion a year by 2035 from its current $145 million.
Producing ethical, sustainable and eco-friendly products
The Ethiopian industry also needs to be applauded for offering abundant opportunities to its 105 million population wrecked by much publicised civil war, famines and
droughts over the last 40 years. In this respect, the industry bears similarity to the Bangladesh RMG industry which has recorded exponential growth since its inception in the 1980’s.
Ethiopia has made rapid advances in producing ethical, sustainable, environmentally-sound apparel products. It has made significant investments in the sector over the years and has now reached a stage where it no longer needs to chase the bottom dollar on the product. Its garment exports are worth around $145 million which has taken the country several years of extremely hard promotion of its textile industry to reach such figures.
Low base wages, bureaucratic red tape pose challenge
However, the apparel industry in Ethiopia also faces several challenges. Government’s eagerness to attract foreign investment has led the country to promote the lowest base wage in any other garment-producing country. It has also promoted the availability of over three million acre for cotton cultivation so far. Out of this, 148,000 acres are being used as local farmers for manufacturing sugar, sesame, and other crops that yield higher cash. Hence, most local manufacturers are still compelled to import raw materials to make finished apparels.
The bureaucratic red tape, which was supposed to be untangled at the manufacturing parks in the country, still remains much in evidence. Exporters in the country are not allowed to consolidate smaller orders into one shipping container which results in shipment of partially full containers leading to a rise in transport costs.
Though, everything may not be currently right with the Bangladesh industry, its logistics including ports and associated infrastructures are exemplary. It now needs to improve product quality and integrity, enhance its sustainability initiatives and environmental credentials besides improving its logistical and infrastructural facilities.
Lenzing initiated a project in Albania designed to promote sustainable forestry and improve local living conditions. As a best practice example, 20 hectares of degenerated land will be recultivated with forest and fruit trees in cooperation with the local population and various NGOs. Moreover, concepts for sustainable forestry will be developed with local schools.
Cooperation with local communities and NGOs
Within the context of the project, the local community will be actively involved in the process in order to ensure a comprehensive transfer of knowledge. The pupils at the Forest School of Shkodra will actively take part in the entire process as a means of learning more about reforestation. Employees of Eco-Social Farm, a facility for people with disabilities located directly below the reforestation area, will take care of the irrigation of the seedlings.
Furthermore, an interdisciplinary cooperation will be carried out with the Austrian school in Shkodra. The reforestation project will serve as the basis for the diploma thesis of the pupils there. In turn, this will contribute to sustainably raising the awareness of pupils and the general public with respect to current challenges in forest management.
The project underlines the commitment of the Lenzing Group to promoting sustainability and enables the company to establish best practice examples for the industry and at the same time to learn for future projects and similar CSR-related activities.
