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With a planned bankruptcy auction a little over a month away, Los Angeles-based American Apparel is still looking for a buyer that will keep its store doors open. There is hope for its manufacturing and distribution operations but a big question mark remains over the fate of the retailer’s 110 stores. It is hoping, buyers step up to salvage the rest of its business. However, the only deal the cash-strapped company has in hand is from Canada’s Gildan, which is offering about $66 million for the intellectual property, some wholesale inventory and an option on manufacturing and distribution assets.
A plan to improve online selling didn't pay off, and, at a time when shoppers are going online in greater and greater numbers, American Apparel watched its online sales fall. American Apparel began as a wholesale T-shirt business in 1998. But the hoped-for turnaround of the clothing manufacturer and retail chain—which has long grappled with shrinking sales and an outsize store footprint—did not happen.
In the days leading up to the US bankruptcy filing, American Apparel began winding up its affairs in the UK, Ireland, Germany, Spain, Canada, Japan and Australia, part of a foreign sprawl that included 83 stores.
Bangladesh may be the world’s second largest exporter of apparel but it’s per hour earnings from the export of apparel are the lowest in south Asia. The country’s per hour earnings from apparel exports are $0.51 while the amount is $0.55 dollars for Sri Lanka, $0.58 for Pakistan and $1.06 for India. For China it is $2.6.
Bangladesh’s per capita export earnings from apparel which are $126 are also well below China’s at $365 and Vietnam’s at $312. The regional average for South Asia is $70. Though the South Asian region possesses several key advantages in the apparel sector, its share of the global apparel market continues to lag behind China’s, which accounts for 41 per cent of the global market. Still South Asia’s share of the global apparel market increased to 12.3 per cent in 2012 from 7.5 per cent in 2000.
Despite higher labor costs, China is able to attract buyers by offering a wide range of apparel at short lead times, while high productivity limits total costs despite high wages. No country in South Asia has thus far succeeded in offering a comparable package of goods and services.
Yarn Fabric & Accessories Show (YFA) 2016 will be held in New Delhi, November 23 to 26, 2016. It aims to redefine the way fiber, yarn, fabric and apparel accessories are sourced and bring renowned suppliers from these four segments closer to buyers and also offer buyers a one-stop place to source all their requirements. The aim is to bring producers of world class and multiple varieties of value added fibers, yarns, fabrics and garment accessories closer to end-users.
The show is a gateway to foreign companies to enter the India. It is taking place in a region of India, which is one of the biggest Indian hubs for manufacturing textiles and apparel. It attracts companies in the textile value chain from all over India. New Delhi and its surrounding area house several Indian and global apparel brands and hundreds of spinning and weaving units as well as thousands of garment manufacturing units.
Top officials, merchandising and sourcing teams from these companies and brands are expected to attend the show, which will provide exhibitors access to the most exclusive buyers ever seen in any other exhibition of this category.
FIEO, India’s apex trade promotion body set up by the Ministry of Commerce and Industry in India promotes India's international trade. FIEO represents small, medium and large scale exporting units spread on a pan-India basis. Today it boasts of a direct membership of over 22,000 companies. They represent every product and service sector of India.
It has been FIEO's endeavor to promote trade with important international markets in line with the objectives of the Indian commerce ministry and the country as a whole. FIEO has offices all across India.
FIEO is participating at International Sourcing Expo Australia. It is by far the biggest spectacle showing Indian products in Australia. More than 65 Indian companies are participating and showing manufactured goods like apparels, textiles, sports goods, home furnishings, industrial textiles, leather products etc.
In his speech at ISEA, S C Ralhan-President, FIEO said the objective of the Indian participation is to project the image of India as a fast emerging economy in Asia and its attractiveness as a destination for high end manufactured goods. “Australia is India’s largest trading partner in East Asia with a bilateral trade of about 12 billion dollars in 2015-16.India's exports to Australia in 2015-16 registered a growth of 17.29 per cent with the trade balance in favor of Australia. However, the trade is nowhere its potential and there is immense scope for expansion,” he said.
“India and Australia have much to share with one another and we have seen our relationship expanding in many ways over the years, including through increased people to people links. Australia has also placed India at the forefront of its international partnerships. Both the governments recognise that there is a significant potential for further expansion iof co-operation in wide range of areas. The two countries are actively engaged in Regional Comprehensive Economic partnership (RCEP) negotiations to work out most beneficial tariff arrangement between the two countries besides other partners,” he poi nted out.
Denim North America (DNA) is changing the way denim mills present fabric.
So far there has been a move from fabric cards to washed leg panels and finally to full garment presentations but since the mid ’90s there has been no significant change.
DNA is showing the flexibility and diversity of a single base component across multiple fabrics, silhouettes, and a variety of washes…the ability to do more with less. The tool kit contains a sample from each step of the design process – from yarn slub to shade, construction, and wash – so it is possible to visualize many different combinations that the components are capable of producing. DNA is giving this unique insight into the denim development process for the very first time.
Denim North America collaborated with Seattle based manufacturing company Hardmill to produce the hand crafted presentation tools. Hardmill is a maker of simple, traditional, rugged high quality kitchenware and home goods.
For the spring 2018 collection, DNA is leading the way by focusing on sturdy cotton faced twill fabrics, real denim, wearable function, and sustainability.
Denim North America makes rigid and stretch woven, rope yarn dyed, sanforised and finished denim fabrics for apparel and fashion applications.
Bangladesh will set up a jute viscose plant with financial and technical assistance from China. Viscose is a of manmade natural fiber. Products made using jute viscose could bring in three to four times more profits than products made using jute fiber.
Viscose is used in Bangladesh’s spinning mills to produce yarn for making the finest possible fabrics for the readymade garment sector. There is a huge demand for jute-made viscose in Bangladesh. The plant will cut down imports of viscose that Bangladesh has to do every year for its textile and readymade garment sector. Jute viscose has huge export potential.
China has been providing technical and financial support to Bangladesh for revitalising the jute sector. Bangladesh currently has 26 jute mills, which are 60 to 70 years old, and of which 24 mills, which are now in operation, are annually producing 2,08,642 metric tons of jute goods against their original annual production capacity of 3,45,000 metric tons.
Bangladesh will take technical assistance from China for modernizing 24 state-owned jute mills for producing diversified jute goods. Jute is one of the most affordable natural fibers and considered second only to cotton in the amount produced and the variety of uses of vegetable fibers.
The fashion industry revolves around glamorous apparel, celebrities and dazzling runway shows. But it also has a dark side framed by human trafficking, low wages and factories that pollute the environment. While approximately 80 per cent of the world’s garment workers are women, the number of women heading the 15 largest mass-market apparel companies on the Fortune 500 list is zero.
In countries like Bangladesh garment-related global supply chains provide critical jobs and capital that help women workers raise their standard of living and provide for their families. However, these women are also vulnerable in global value chains. Low wages, unsafe working conditions and flexible contracts are prevalent. This is exacerbated by entrenched gender discrimination in everyday life.
In 2014, Cambodia's security forces opened fire on garment workers while they were protesting low pay. It is one in a string of tragedies worldwide that have hit garment workers hard. The broken fashion supply chain system makes trillions in revenue for major brands while paying the workers pennies.
Labor intensive industries, like fashion, are more sensitive to the costs of labor. The race between brands to compete for the lowest costs has driven garment worker wages to the floor.
The rising cost of textile manufacturing is human dignity and human life. They are not measured in profit and loss statements, but the losses are devastating on many levels.
"The International Sourcing Expo (ISEA) opened its doors at the Melbourne Convention & Exhibition Centre from November 15 to 17, 2016. The expo offers an extensive array of apparel, textiles, accessories and footwear and is supposed to be the ultimate destination for sourcing, connecting and learning. The three day show kicked off on a strong note."
The International Sourcing Expo (ISEA) opened its doors at the Melbourne Convention & Exhibition Centre from November 15 to 17, 2016. The expo offers an extensive array of apparel, textiles, accessories and footwear and is supposed to be the ultimate destination for sourcing, connecting and learning. The three day show kicked off on a strong note.
What’s more, this time, India has sent the largest contingent and the product basket is vast with garments, fashion accessories, handlooms, industrial products, children’s organic garments and so on. The strong pan-India participation includes prominent names like Raymond and BSL Suiting's. The Indian pavilion was inaugurated by Rakesh Malhotra, Consul-Consulate Genreral of India in along with Ajay Sahai, DG & CEO, FIEO and Naval Baveja, Director FIEO a strong business partner to ISEA through the years. In fact, many of the Indian exhibitors at the expo already have a presence in Australia as they are exporting there. Indian apparel and textile exports clocked in good growth last year and trade is in growth trajectory.
Other participating countries are China, Sri Lanka, Bangladesh, Pakistan, Hong Kong, Taiwan, Indonesia, Fiji, Vietnam, New Zealand, Malaysia and more. Also Mauritius and Turkey are participating for the first time in the Expo. Both regions are growing their presence in Australian market and are actively promoting their capabilities.
The Council of Textile and Fashion will be hosting a series of workshops at the expo this year. These will cover a range of valuable industry topics. Traditional artisan and eco-friendly hand woven delicate textiles are being showcased by India. Presented in conjunction with the Handloom Export Promotion Council of India, the event demonstrates first and how these textiles are produced. Visitors can discover possibilities for their business.
Also, the combined event with co located Footwear & Leather Show plus the 16th China Clothing Textile Accessories Expo is introducing over 500 businesses from around the world.
India's positioning in the international market depends upon branding of Indian textile products.
For instance branding of handloom products by involving top designers and retail giants in the country has led to a paradigm shift in the handloom sector.
Many states still do not have a dedicated textile minister. Views and contribution of all states would be reflected in the new textile policy so that India becomes the textile destination of the world.
Various measures have been taken to boost growth and remove bottlenecks and challenges facing the sector. A huge apparel package has been given to the industry. Support would be given for expanding manufacturing capacity and employment generation capacity as only this would address the challenges of industry such as cost of power and labor.
There is a need for more dialogue and convergence between the states and the Center.
A MoU has been signed between IGNOU and The National Institute of Open Schooling to provide free, anytime, anywhere education to children of artisans and weavers.
The textile sector faces challenges, especially in the export market, due to uneven tariff and non-tariff barriers. GST is expected to bring down input costs, give a boost to textile exports and bring in greater capital investment in the sector.
"In the US, there are regulatory requirements for the flammability of textile. For example, children’s sleepwear – a high-risk category – has stringent flammability regulatory requirements in several countries including the US, Canada, Australia and the UK. The testing has been revealed by SGS, world’s leading inspection, verification, testing and certification company."
In the US, there are regulatory requirements for the flammability of textile. For example, children’s sleepwear – a high-risk category – has stringent flammability regulatory requirements in several countries including the US, Canada, Australia and the UK. The testing has been revealed by SGS, world’s leading inspection, verification, testing and certification company.
General apparels& flammability
In the US, general apparel needs to be tested for flammability using 16 CFR 1610 (Code of Federal Regulations). Some items, such as gloves and footwear, are exempt from the regulation. An additional group of items, which meet certain weight criteria or are made from specified fibre content, are considered to meet the flammability regulation without testing.
In the US flammability test, a standard flame (5/8 of an inch long) is lowered onto the six-inch fabric specimen which is mounted at a 45º angle, which approximates the position of fabric during wearing. The flammability of the fabric sample is evaluated by timing how long does it take the flame to travel the length of the test specimen. The faster the time, the more likely it is that the fabric will burn so rapidly that the garment could not be removed or the fire extinguished before grave injury happened. Testing takes place on both the original fabric and on the fabric after dry-cleaning and washing. The final classification uses the lowest time recorded at the two stages of testing.
Fabrics are classified into Class 1 Normal Flammability, Class 2 Intermediate Flammability and Class 3 Rapid and Intense Burning, according to the time of the burn and the characteristics of the burn. Fabrics, or fabrics cut from garments, with a Class 3 testing result are not allowed to be sold in the US market.
There are different requirements for plain surface and raised surface fabrics. If a plain surface fabric has a burn time of 3.5 seconds or more, it’s classified as Class 1. Fabrics with a burn time of less than 3.5 seconds are classified as Class 3 and fail the flammability test. Class 2 Intermediate Flammability does not apply to plain surface fabrics.
For raised surface fabrics, Class 1 fabrics have a burn time of more than 7 seconds. A combination of burn times between 4 and 7 seconds, and burning characteristics that indicate the base of the fabric has been burned through, would result in a fabric being rated as Class 2. Such fabrics, or garments made with Class 2 fabrics, are considered to have intermediate flammability and it is still legal for them to go on sale in the United States. A combination of a burn time less than 4 seconds, plus burning characteristics indicating the fabric’s base has been burned through, would result in a fabric being rated as a Class 3 fabric. It is illegal to sell Class 3 fabrics in the US.
Raised surface fabrics offer greater risk than plain surface fabrics because the pile on the fabric’s surface traps more air and oxygen is essential for sustained burning.
Children’s sleepwear & flammability
The US has two regulations for the flammability of children’s wearing apparel intended for sleeping or related activities: 16 CFR 1615 and 16 CFR 1616. All children’s sleepwear, sizes 0 to 14, must comply with one of these two standards, or else it cannot be sold in the US.
The children’s sleepwear flammability tests are more severe than the general wearing apparel flammability tests. The test is a vertical burning test in which a 1.5-inch flame is applied underneath the bottom edge of the fabric for 3 seconds. The evaluation is based on the length of material burned away or severely charred, which is called the ‘char length’.
Due to the severity of the tests, most children’s sleepwear made of cotton or other cellulosic materials will not comply with the standard. Fabrics made from 100% polyester or other synthetic fibers are usually self-extinguishing and therefore will usually pass the testing.
Passing testing results must be obtained for each fabric production unit (5,000 linear yards) both before and after 50 washes. Depending on results, it may not be necessary to complete 50 washes for all fabric production units. The tests must be applied to prototypes of each type of seam and trim to be used on the final garment and each garment production unit (500 dozen).
Most burn incidents occur when children are awake, unsupervised and wearing sleepwear. Contact with hot surfaces and small open flames are the primary hazards. Children’s sleepwear will comply with the flammability requirements if; it meets size specifications for sleepwear sizes 0 – 9 months and passes testing against 16 CFR 1610; it meets all tight-fitting criteria in the regulations and passes testing against 16 CFR 1610; the average char length of specimens tested is seven inches or less and; no individual specimen burns along its entire length (10 inches).
Sleepwear made in children’s sizes 0-9 months are exempt because most children wearing these sizes would not be unsupervised near open flames.
Tight-fitting sleepwear would not easily be exposed to an open flame due to its design. Such sleepwear must meet the specific sizing measurements given in 16 CFR 1615 and 1616. In addition to meeting the sizing specifications, the garments must be labelled as per regulations.
