FW
For decades, Indian apparel brands and retailers relied primarily on domestic sourcing. However, in recent years, there's been a significant shift towards Bangladesh. This trend, spurred by several factors, is transforming the landscape of the Indian apparel market.
Bangladesh a cost-competitive edge
The primary driver for this shift is cost competitiveness. Bangladesh offers significant advantages over domestic sourcing for Indian companies.
Labor costs: Bangladesh boasts lower labor costs compared to India. A 2023 study by the Garment Manufacturers and Exporters Association (BGMEA) of Bangladesh revealed that average wages in the Bangladeshi garment industry are nearly 20 per cent lower than their Indian counterparts.
Duty benefits: The South Asian Free Trade Agreement (SAFTA) allows duty-free import of certain apparel items from Bangladesh to India. This significantly reduces landed costs for Indian companies.
Strong manufacturing base: Bangladesh has emerged as a global leader in apparel manufacturing, boasting a skilled workforce and efficient production lines. Leading brands like H&M, Zara, and GAP source heavily from Bangladesh, a testament to its capabilities.
Reliance Retail, one of India's largest retail chains, exemplifies this trend. In 2017, they established a sourcing office in Bangladesh and have since ramped up their procurement from the country. As Mohit Batra, Country Head of Reliance's Bangladesh operations explains, they are offering huge quantities and are looking for manufacturers that can offer 20 per cent of their capacity. This highlights the significant cost savings Reliance enjoys by sourcing from Bangladesh.
Table: Bangladesh apparel exports to India productwise
|
Product category |
Percentage |
|
Knitwear (T-shirts, polos, etc.) |
60% |
|
Woven Shirts and Blouses |
20% |
|
Bottoms (Jeans, trousers) |
15% |
|
Others (Dresses, jackets) |
5% |
Product diversification in focus
While cost remains a major driver, Indian brands are also looking at Bangladesh for product diversification. Bangladesh excels in knitwear production, particularly T-shirts, polos, and sweatshirts. This aligns perfectly with India's growing demand for casual wear. Sweaters, hoodies, and other knitted garments are popular Bangladeshi exports, leveraging the country's expertise in knitwear manufacturing. Jeans and denim clothing are another major category, as Bangladesh has emerged as a global leader in denim production.
|
Year |
Bangladesh apparel exports to India |
Growth rate |
|
2017 |
129.81 |
- |
|
2018 |
279.19 |
115% |
|
2023 (estimated) |
403 |
45% (CAGR) |
The increasing sourcing from Bangladesh presents a win-win situation for both countries. India gains access to cost-competitive, high-quality garments, while Bangladesh expands its export market. As Deepak Mohindra, Founder of Apparel Sourcing Week, predicts, "Bangladesh's exports of garments to India could exceed $1 billion in two years." This trend is likely to continue as Indian brands and retailers seek to optimize their supply chains and cater to the growing demand for affordable fashion.
Thousands of visitors from brands like Clarks, French Connection, PepsiCo, and Amazon gathered at Olympia London for day two of Source Fashion, Europe's largest responsible sourcing show. The event featured seminars on trends, legislation, and big-brand sustainability approaches.
Event Director Suzanne Ellingham emphasized collaboration, education, and storytelling as keys to improving the fashion industry. Attendees listened to fashion activist Caryn Franklin and former ASOS CEO Nick Beighton discuss leadership and sustainability. Beighton highlighted the need for purpose-driven brands and transparent production practices, advocating for conscious capitalism to drive positive change.
Jack Stratten of Insider Trends spoke on the significance of storytelling in brand loyalty amidst AI-fueled fast fashion. Mike Coates from the UK Competition and Markets Authority addressed greenwashing and the importance of transparency in product journeys.
Afternoon sessions included a fireside chat with Jo Mourant of Next Retail on responsible sourcing challenges and opportunities. Hayley Shore from PepsiCo showcased a new sustainable fashion collection, stressing the importance of traceability and collaboration.
Caryn Franklin returned to discuss the intersection of culture and politics in fashion with Tina Wetshi, Creative Director of Colechi. They highlighted the need to re-humanize fashion by reconnecting it with nature and agriculture.
The final day of Source Fashion promises talks on education and certification, including the Developing Countries Trading Scheme and Global Organic Textile Standard. The event aims to foster an ecosystem where the industry can discuss big issues and success stories in a safe space.
Kering has announced Ewa Abrams as the new President of Kering Americas, effective August 1, 2024. Abrams, who has been the General Counsel of Kering Americas since 2018, will succeed Laurent Claquin, who has been promoted to Group Chief Brand Officer. In her new role, Abrams will report directly to Jean-Marc Duplaix, Deputy CEO in charge of Operations and Finance.
Abrams brings extensive experience to the position, having served on the Kering Foundation Board in the Americas and co-chairing the Women In Luxury Americas program. Prior to Kering, she spent over 17 years at Tiffany & Co., where she was Vice President, Associate General Counsel, and Chief Compliance & Privacy Officer.
Her commitment to mentorship is evident through her role as an Adjunct Professor of Law at Fordham University since 2016. Abrams holds a JD from Brooklyn Law School and a degree from Bucknell University.
Her appointment underscores Kering's focus on leveraging deep industry expertise to drive strategic growth and development in the Americas.
Marking a challenging start to fiscal 2025, UK-based luxury fashion house, the Burberry Group reported a 22 per cent Y-o-Y decline in revenue during Q1, FY25. The brand’s revenue plummeted to £458 million while it also registered a 21 per cent decline in comparable store sales during the quarter with all regions except Japan experiencing declines.
In the Asia Pacific region, the brand’s sales dropped by 23 per cent, with sales in Mainland China declining by 21 per cent and those in South Asia Pacific facing a substantial 38 per cent decline. The brand’s sales in South Korea decreased by 26 per cent during the quarter while in sales in Japan rose by 6 per cent owing to increased expenditure on tourism by the country, particularly on tourists from Chinese and other nearby Asian countries.
The Americas region also struggled with a 23 per cent decline in sales as local customer spending reduced. Similarly, the Europe, Middle East, India, and Africa (EMEIA) region saw sales decline by 16 per cent, with local spending deteriorating compared to the previous quarter. Tourist spending, which constituted a significant portion of retail revenues, experienced a high single-digit percentage decline.
Despite these challenges, certain product categories such as outerwear and scarves performed well globally. Citing the company’s swift adaption amid a tougher luxury market, Gerry Murphy, Chairman, warned of a potential operating loss for the first half of the fiscal year if current trends persist through Q2.
The European Textile and Clothing industry (Euratex) supports the EU’s proposed customs reforms, highlighting the necessity for an updated framework to tackle digital age challenges and promote fair competition.
Dirk Vantyghem, Euratex Director General, emphasized the crucial role of customs in ensuring fair competition and compliance with EU standards, highlighting the necessity for a modernized system that addresses the rise of e-commerce and the increasing complexity of regulations.
Central to Euratex's demands is the immediate abolition of the €150 import duty exemption for small consignments. The organization argues that this loophole has been exploited by e-commerce giants, undermining European manufacturers.
Additionally, Euratex seeks a harmonized customs regime across the EU, simplifying procedures and reducing bureaucracy, particularly for SMEs. Data security, transparency, and effective implementation of the Trust & Check Trader status are also key priorities.
The industry body emphasizes the importance of a robust EU Data Hub with clear regulations, and calls for close cooperation between policymakers and businesses in its development. Euratex also stresses the need for support for SMEs in obtaining Authorized Economic Operator statuses.
Finally, Euratex welcomes the establishment of the EU Customs Authority but insists on a strong dialogue with industry to ensure effective coordination.
Recording its strongest financial performance in the brand’s 40-year history, Mango registered a 6.3 per cent rise in revenue to £1.3 billion (€1.543 billion) during the first half of the year.
The revenues of Mango Man grew by over 21 per cent over this period, while those of Mango Kids and Teen expanded by more than 11 per cent. The cornerstone of the company's business, Mango Woman achieved a modest 4 per cent growth, marking its highest revenue in a six-month period and contributing 79 per cent of total revenue.
The company attributes this success to the positive reception of its collections and its value proposition crafted in Barcelona. Notably, Mango launched new capsule collections, including collaborations such as with Victoria Beckham for its Woman line and with Boglioli for Mango Man, alongside new editions of its Capsule and Selection lines.
Geographically, Mango's international business accounted for over 78 per cent of its total revenue. The company continued to expand its physical presence by opening 57 new stores, bringing its global store count to 2,743 by the end of June.
In the UK, Mango plans to open over twenty new stores this year, including debuts in Northern Ireland and central and southern England, alongside new locations in London and Scotland. The company recently launched its first Mango Teen store in London as part of its expansion strategy.
Expressing satisfaction with the brand’s performance amidst a competitive market, Toni Ruiz, CEO, highlights their commitment to value proposition, business model, and plans to expand to international markets.
On July 13, the Chennai campus of National Institute of Fashion Technology organised a runway show to promote waste management and celebrate the city's conservancy workers. Titled 'Shine Beyond Streets,' the event aimed to raise awareness about sustainable practices and the importance of recycling textile waste.
The fashion show featured student designs that reimagined utilitarian and workwear fashion, incorporating elements like high-visibility saree belts and embellished tools. Some of its highlights included capes, helmets, and masks combined with functional attire.
The runway was also graced by conservancy workers who modeled ethnic and occasion wear at Express Avenue Mall.
The show was organised in collaboration with private conservancy agency UrbaserSumeet. NIFT Chennai used the platform to encourage the public to donate unwanted clothing or dispose of it separately from general waste. Highlighting the positive impact of such actions on waste management efforts, MahmoodSait, CEO, UrbaserSumeet, urged for collective participation in such sustainable practices.
An innovative textile solutions provider CM Tessuti and Japanese technology company, 1st Corporation jointly launched their latest innovation, 1st Platinumwool at the latest edition of Milano Unica.
Made in Japan and certified by the Responsible Wool Standard (RWS), this fiber boasts an extraordinary fineness of 14.5 microns, enhancing wool’s natural properties.
IstPlatinumwool retains all the benefits of traditional wool while significantly enhancing them. It is distinguished by superior luster, exceptional softness, high pilling resistance, and enhanced tactile qualities. The materials made from IstPlatinumwool offer exceptional crease resistance, superior odor neutralisation, and a fresh touch, making it suitable for various applications, including knitwear, shirts, and elegant outerwear.
Within this partnership, CM Tessuti handles product development, production of the jersey collection, and distribution of both fabric collections in Europe, the UK, and the US.
Marco and Christian Bozzonetti Rivera, Owners, CM Tessuti, note, the development aims to create a unique synergy that combines Japanese precision with Italian creativity.
Supported by Riccardo Rami Studio, the development of IstPlatinumwool collections was certified by Woolmark for quality. At its best in all variations, this material offers an incredibly soft hand and superior stretch recovery in knits. In jersey fabrics, it achieves unprecedented levels of softness and luster. In shuttle fabrics, it reveals unprecedented versatility, becoming ultra-compact and ideal for water-resistant outerwear that embodies quiet luxury, adds Rami.
To meet the market’s evolving demands, Page Industries has embarked on a series of strategic expansion and investment projects. These projects aim to enhance capacity, efficiency, and sustainability across the company’s operations.
The largest amongst these projects, the Odisha Project is expected to complete by FY’25-end. Spanning 28.5 acre with a built-up area of 6.5 lakh sqft, the project includes development of facilities for Central Stores, Cut-to-Pack, and Elastics & Socks manufacturing. Supporting the company’s vertical growth, this initiative emphasises on incorporating best-in-class manufacturing processes and aiming for energy-efficient IGBC certification, underscoring Page Industries’ commitment to sustainability and excellence.
Page Industries is currently also involved in the expansion of its premium vertical at KR Pete with plans for a new facility spanning 250,000 sq ft. Designed to support both sew-to-pack and elastic manufacturing operations, this project is structured in two phases: the first phase will focus on sew-to-pack operations, targeted for completion by Q1 of FY’26, while the second phase will enhance elastic manufacturing capabilities, expected to be operational by FY’27.
Meanwhile, the company has completed the expansion of its socks manufacturing facility by adding 215 new knitting machines, taking the facility’s total capacity to 576, making it one of the largest socks production facilities in India. This expansion significantly enhances the brand’s aggressive growth strategy in this segment.
The company has also expanded its tape dyeing unit in Hassan to 35,000 sq ft. The unit is scheduled to commence operation by Q1 of FY’25. The enhanced capacity will boost the sampling and development potential of women’s elastic supply. Additionally, the ‘Cup Moulding’ and ‘Hook n Eye Forming’ projects have been completed and are ready for operation, aiming to enhance bra-making capabilities.
Another project, Hook n Eye metal dyeing, is underway and may commence operation by Q1 of FY’25.
Page Industries’ extensive expansion and investment initiatives underscore the company’s proactive approach to addressing market demands and positioning itself for future growth. With significant projects across various operational areas, the company is set to enhance its capacity, efficiency, and sustainability, ensuring it remains a key player in the industry.
Textile exporters in Pakistan are protesting against the latest federal budget as it imposes a 29 per cent tax on their profits, thus eliminating their previous exemption.
Additionally, the budget also revises the existing 1 per cent tax on revenue, compelling companies that do not turn a profit to still pay this tax.
Historically, Pakistan has faced recurring balance of payments crises, prompting the government to support exporters with tax breaks and substantial subsidies to boost their international competitiveness. However, in this year's budget, the government had to choose between either cutting the benefits for exporters or reducing its own expenditures. It opted for the former.
This decision has sparked heavy criticism not only from the textile industry but also from the broader business community, including sectors that have long advocated for taxing the textile sector. The backlash highlights the contentious nature of the new tax regime.
