FW
Uzbekistan says it is avoiding using schoolchildren to harvest cotton this year and has drafted adults in public sector workers. Many classrooms are empty during the harvest time as teachers are sent to the fields to pluck cotton. Education has ceased entirely in some parts of the country as teachers fulfill their cotton quotas. Other public institutions are required to ensure 40 to 70 per cent of staff are in the fields, at any given time.
International pressure on the government has managed to remove children aged 7 to 15 from the fields, and the International Labor Organization was allowed to monitor the cotton harvest last year. However, despite the government's assurances, the use of child and forced labor in Uzbekistan's cotton harvest continues to be a contentious issue. The US government has said Uzbekistan's government continues to be complicit in the use of forced child labor during the cotton harvest and has made no advancement in efforts to eliminate the practice.
The total harvest of cotton in Uzbekistan this year reached 3.4 million tons, up from last year's 3.35 million tones. Gross income from cotton production this year will increase by 12 per cent compared to 2013. This is expected to stimulate domestic textile production and contribute to the increase of exports.
The International Labor Organisation has moved to engage more firms for safety inspections in Bangladesh’s readymade garment factories in a bid to complete the assessment within the promised time. The government in association with the ILO is conducting factory inspections which are not on the lists of two international retailers’ groups.
In the last week of October, ILO issued an international tender to hire firms who will work with teams of the Bangladesh University of Engineering and Technology (BUET) to complete the safety assessment by January. ILO is interested in hiring firms that carried out safety inspection in the RMG factories under the initiatives of global retailers’ groups. Two international initiatives — Accord and Alliance — have already completed their safety assessment in more than 1,700 garment factories.
The government in association with the ILO announced a separate inspection program for about 1,500 garment factories which are not on the lists of Alliance and Accord and which are mainly engaged in subcontracting. ILO hired BUET to carry out the inspection and a total of 420 factories have been assessed so far since November last year.
BUET says completion of the first phase of inspection and renewal of contract for the second phase of inspection have been delayed due to procedural complexities and some disagreements between local and foreign experts over inspection standards.
The ongoing denim expo in Bangladesh has more than 50 companies from 14 countries participating. Exhibitors from the US, Japan, Italy, Germany, the Netherlands, Brazil, Turkey, China, Thailand, Sri Lanka, India and Pakistan are showcasing denim pants, fabrics and the latest accessories. Bangladesh Denim Expo offers international fashion buyers a one-stop sourcing platform for all aspects of jeans wear.
This is an exclusive event for authorised trade visitors, and will also feature a seminar focusing new trends, finishes and the latest washes, plus various workshops. The show is organized by Denim Expert, a Bangladesh-Netherlands joint venture. Denim Expert has promised to donate surplus funds generated by the show to set up a denim university in Bangladesh. The aim is to transfer knowledge internally to a new generation of designers, merchandisers, buyers, production technicians and entrepreneurs in the Bangladesh denim industry.
Global retailers and big brands are interested in sourcing jeans from Bangladesh in view of the reasonable prices and the quality. Currently, there are about 25 denim fabric manufacturers in Bangladesh. The country is the world’s second largest producer of denim apparel after China, shipping more than 185 million pieces a year across the globe.
www.bangladeshdenimexpo.com/
Bangladesh is the third largest exporter of garments to the US and a large exporter to Europe. Bangladesh's garment workers are among the hardest working in the world, and also the most exploited, earning the lowest minimum wage in the world. The country has 5,000 readymade garment factories but the number of clothing factories with union representation is just about 200. Labor laws remain weak and enforcement is weaker still. Local industry enjoys outsized influence in the country's politics, which impedes the establishment and enforcement of rigorous regulation.
The infrastructure is creaky and the risk of factory fires is high. Apparel exports are the largest source of foreign exchange earnings. Without textiles, Bangladesh, already burdened by immense poverty, would see its economy collapse. As such, given the dire need for such jobs, for years, many western companies and Bangladeshi businessmen conspired to cut costs by keeping wages depressed and almost disregarding safety.
Even those who have criticized the poor infrastructure and corruption that endangers the lives of Bangladeshi textile workers admit that such jobs provide a way out of poverty and bondage for millions of the country’s women. Finding a job in a garment factory also prevents many young Bangladeshi women from the practice of marrying underage.
However, since the devastation at Rana Plaza, the textile industry has undergone some slow, but significant, improvements in working conditions, safety standards and job protection.
Italian company Tonello has come up with new denim technologies. The ozone washing system is capable of creating a pure indigo look with greater contrast on the seams while saving up to 80 per cent in terms of water, energy and time. In many cases it is possible to avoid stone-wash processes, making the working environment completely safe and healthy, while obtaining even better results.
The ozone is placed inside a washing machine and dissolved in water to remove the indigo during washing. This makes it possible to reduce both the number of baths and the treatment time, obtaining a bright, contrasted bleach effect. The ozone is also completely neutralised in the machine, allowing the operator to handle the garments without risk.
Tonello does special effects on fabrics, experiments with new techniques for washing garments and is known for stunning graphic designs. The company started out by producing just washing machines for the home market, but soon, the Italian company decided to diversify. Tonello stands for the highest quality standards not only for washing, but also for dyeing and finishing.
Tonello is participating at the ongoing Bangladesh Denim Expo from November 11 to 12. Bangladesh is one of its main markets.
www.tonello.com/
Bangladesh will host an apparel summit from December 7 to 9, 2014. The idea is to send out the right message to global partners in the apparel market. Bangladesh also wants to sketch out a sustainable roadmap on building responsible supply chains in the textile and garment sectors. The country is aiming for garment exports worth to $f 50 billion dollars by 2021.
The summit will discuss the present business and investment trends, global sourcing dynamics and potential for Bangladesh, priority issues to support the growth potential, compliance issues, prudent commercial diplomacy and political stability, supportive policies and coordination between different government agencies, product and market diversification.
Part of the discussion will also focus on market diversification strategy and dynamics in global tariff structure. A session will look at the questions of environmentally sustainable economic growth in a densely populated country like Bangladesh and examine how the readymade garment sector can meet the standards required.
The discussions will focus on devising a strategic action plan to overcome the existing challenges and tap the potential. The summit will also discuss how important physical infrastructure, power, gas and energy are to secure the Vision 2021 set for Bangladesh.
There has been a lot of progress in the country over the last year that overcame some recent challenges faced by the industry relating to workplace safety issues.
A textiles innovation laboratory in Mexico is working to develop an apparel fiber based on agave. Agave is the plant ingredient used to make tequila and agave liquors.
The facility, Innlab, hopes to make an apparel fiber from the agave bagasse. The laboratory opened only last August and its mandate is to help make garments from intelligent textiles and nano fibers.
Innlab will sell the fiber to Mexican apparel firms. It hopes to help Mexican apparel makers as they prepare for a possible rise in domestic sourcing from new fast fashion brands entering the market.
Agave fiber has unique characteristics. It’s dimensionally stable, has low moisture absorption and a lower specific gravity than minerals. It has an unique swirl look and excellent chemical and mold resistance. Several kinds of agave plants contain distinct varieties of fibers. Agave can grow in drought-tolerant environments and it thrives in dry, sterile soils. The fiber is used to manufacture textiles, industrial fillers, paper, filters, mattresses, carpets and a variety of ropes and twines.
Traditionally, indigenous people, including the American Indians, used agave fiber to make twine. Today manufacturers commonly use agave fiber in the textile industry. Other applications for agave fiber include wall coverings and yarns made for specialty products such as durable carpets and rugs.
China, Japan, Hong Kong are investing in Vietnam’s textile industry in a big way. Hong Kong’s TAL Group will build a fiber production, knitting and fabric dyeing factory. A Chinese company is investing in a fiber-weaving-dyeing project. Japanese trading firm Itochu will invest in the Vietnam National Textile and Garment Group (Vinatex). Vinatex is Vietnam’s largest state-owned textile company. It operates about 200 factories around the country, of which about 30 are involved in sewing garments for Itochu under a contract.
Itochu currently does business with about 100 Vietnamese textile companies. It deals in everything, from the procurement of raw materials to sewing, and supplies suits, shirts and other products to Japan, the United States and Europe. It is the largest Japanese firm in the country's textile industry.
In the past 10 months alone Vietnam has approved almost 20 new FDI projects. Apart from building factories, many foreign corporations have bought shares or cooperated with Vietnamese partners. In south Vietnam, many corporations of Taiwan and Hong Kong have also strengthened their investment in the textile and garment industries.
Vietnam sees the inflow of foreign capital as an opportunity for homegrown enterprises to develop their technology and buy materials at low prices.
Pakistan's textile exports to countries other than EU fell by nine per cent this year. But textile exports to the European Union registered an increase of 19 per cent during the first nine months of the current year. This is mainly due to the GSP Plus status the EU gives Pakistan.
The country’s overall textile exports increased 3.95 per cent in the last fiscal mainly due to the increase in exports to the EU after getting the GSP Plus status. However, GSP Plus has not led to any significant rise in Pakistan’s textile exports. Textile exports to EU were expected to rise by a billion dollars a year after getting the GSP Plus status. But that hasn’t happened. Several challenges remain, including fluctuations in the prices of raw materials, energy shortages and stiff competition.
The government is working to prepare a five-year plan to provide incentives mainly to the value-added textile sectors. Under the new proposed textile policy (2014-19) the value-added textile sector would be incentivized. Textile exports would be increased to 26 billion dollars in the next five years, besides creating job opportunities.
Cotton textiles and apparel historically have been the focus of Pakistan’s textile industry, mainly because of the large amount of cotton grown in the country. Cotton and cotton products represent 61 per cent of Pakistan’s export earnings.
J. Crew Brands will extend its participation in Cotton Incorporated’s denim recycling drive, Blue Jeans Go Green, at its J.Crew and Madewell retail stores. During the denim drive, J.Crew and Madewell customers are encouraged to bring their pairs of old jeans to a participating store to receive $20 towards a new pair of jeans. The collected jeans are then recycled into UltraTouch Denim Insulation as part of the Blue Jeans Go Green project.
J.Crew will continue to host the program until December 31, 2014 while Madewell will host until January 31, 2015. The retailers have been participating in the drive since August, with 269 participating J.Crew stores and 74 Madewell stores.
The Blue Jeans Go Green program began in 2006 to help benefit local communities across America. More than one million denim pieces have been collected to date. The insulation created by the jeans has been distributed to organizations like Habitat for Humanity and used to build houses. Roughly 2,50,000 sq. ft. of insulation is distributed each year, while the project has diverted more than 600 tons of waste from landfills since its birth.
Customers probably feel great about participating in the denim drive—they will be helping the environment and their communities while supporting their favorite stores.
