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Cottons Tech Revolution High Yield Genes and the IP Problem

 

Delivering a compelling message on the future of the cotton industry in a virtual address at the Global Cotton Conference, renowned global consultant in cotton analytics, Dr Terry Townsend, argued that the path forward lies in a dramatic acceleration of technology, particularly in seed science, to combat stagnant production and declining prices. The key is striking a delicate balance between fostering innovation and protecting the intellectual property (IP) that drives it, he said.

The Global Cotton Conference was organized by India’s Ministry of Textiles and CITI on October 7, 2025,

The new frontier of seed technology

Townsend highlighted a global trend toward conscious mechanization and advanced seed technology. He pointed to major cotton-producing countries like the United States, Brazil, and Australia, where farmers are increasingly planting seeds with multiple ‘stacked gene’ biotech traits. These traits are the product of significant research and development, essentially enabling cotton plants to achieve higher yields and effectively resist climate-related stresses, pests, and diseases, he explained.

For nations that do not permit biotech crops, scientists are developing a new subset of gene-bending technologies. These innovations help non-biotech nations adopt some of the desired traits through dedicated breeding processes, ensuring that innovation benefits the entire global market. This push for advancement is accelerating, fueled by breakthroughs in AI, GPS systems, and precision agriculture. These cutting-edge tools allow for the precise application of inputs like seeds and chemicals, maximizing efficiency in the field and critically boosting yields.

Townsend emphasized, this technological growth is a necessary response to a persistent global challenge: while world cotton production has held steady at around 25 million tons for two decades, real cotton prices have been on a continuous downward trend for over 50 years. This downward pressure on prices is unforgiving, meaning that businesses must become dramatically more productive simply to remain profitable.

The high cost of innovation and the IP imperative

While the benefits of technology are clear and desperately needed, Townsend was quick to point out a major hurdle: technology development is expensive. The research, development, and commercialization of a single seed variety can cost millions of dollars and take years of work. As a result, companies simply won't invest the required capital into new technologies if they aren't guaranteed a viable return on their investment.

This brings the issue of intellectual property (IP) protection to the absolute forefront. Townsend asserted that strong, enforceable IP laws are essential for creating an environment where technology developers feel secure enough to invest their resources. Without it, the flow of new, critical technologies to farmers will slow dramatically. This stagnation would make it difficult, if not impossible, for the industry to keep pace with global population demands and the increasing severity of environmental challenges. He noted clearly that countries with robust research systems and strong IP protection are the ones that will continue to grow and lead the industry into the future.

A sustainable future through technology

Beyond purely economic concerns, Townsend also touched on the critical role of technology in achieving sustainability. He noted, consumer and regulatory concerns about the environmental impact of cotton are growing steadily. He opines, technology is the critical mediator in making the world's cotton production more sustainable. The ability to use precision inputs and develop climate-resilient crops will not only secure better yields but also help the industry overcome the destructive extremes of climate change.

 

Italian textile machinery manufacturers are set to make a major impact at ITMA Asia + CITME Singapore 2025, taking place from October 28 to 31.

Despite geopolitical uncertainties, over 100 companies from Italy will showcase their latest innovations across 4,000 sq m.

Around 53 of these Italian exhibitors will be grouped within the National Sector Groups, organized by ACIMIT (Association of Italian Textile Machinery Manufacturers) and the Italian Trade Agency (ITA).

ITMA ASIA + CITME remains the essential showcase for machinery manufacturers targeting the Asian market, which currently accounts for 50 per cent of global exports, valued at €8.8 billion in 2024. China and India are the leading importers, making the region crucial for Italian firms. In 2024, Italian textile machinery exports to Asia reached €664 million. In H1, FY25, sales to the area continued to grow, reaching €317 million, with China, India, Pakistan, and Bangladesh being the primary destinations for Made in Italy technology.

Marco Salvade, President, ACIMIT notes, the event provides an excellent opportunity to display their updated technological supply. The choice of Singapore allows Italian exhibitors to engage with many Southeast Asian markets, which are becoming increasingly important manufacturing hubs, he said.

Italian manufacturers will present a wide array of advanced solutions covering the entire textile value chain. Visitors can expect to see digitalization tools for better efficiency, automation systems for smarter production, and a strong focus on sustainable technologies. This includes machinery designed to optimize energy and water use while maintaining high quality, combining Italy's textile tradition with cutting-edge innovation.

Giorgio Calveri, Director, ITA Singapore, confirms, with 86 per cent of its €2.1 billion production exported, Italy’s textile machinery industry views ITMA Asia + CITME as a strategic opportunity to reinforce its position as a trusted partner for advanced, sustainable, and competitive technologies in the key Asian region.

 

UK-based Fibre Extrusion Technology is launching its FET-500 Series of Gel Spinning Systems to transform the research and development of Ultra-High Molecular Weight Polyethylene (UHMWPE) fibers.

FET has an established reputation for innovation and expertise in medical fiber extrusion, providing high-performance, specialized equipment for precursor medical products, including custom systems for making both absorbable and non-absorbable sutures. FET’s equipment is designed for flexible, small-scale production and rapid product development.

In recent years, the demand for R&D in UHMWPE fibers has grown significantly. These fibers are highly valued across many industries for their exceptional properties. However, current production methods are complicated and focused on the massive, large-scale output of existing fiber grades. This rigid supply chain has slowed down innovation in this promising, untapped product market.

Set to fill this market gap, the FET-500 gel spinning systems offers a flexible and consistent process, capable of producing high-quality fibers using less than 100 grams of polymer. Crucially, it avoids the harsh processing chemicals that were traditionally used in gel spinning.

The key to this lab and pilot-scale flexibility is a patent-pending process that uses supercritical carbon dioxide (scCO2) as a green solvent.

While gel spinning starts with extrusion, the follow-up steps of washing and drawing are vital for achieving the final performance characteristics of the yarn. The use of patent-pending Supercritical Carbon Dioxide in the washing process is just one example of the system's many innovative features and benefits.

FET's Fibre Development Centre in Leeds, where the manufacturing takes place, was crucial to the creation and success of the FET-500. Having this facility on-site allows FET to offer a way for customers to de-risk, develop, and demonstrate the system’s capabilities.

FET maintains a complete, operational demonstration line of the FET-500, enabling both existing and new customers to visit and see the system running from start to finish. FET can also assist in developing new products and operating parameters through R&D trials, giving you the confidence and knowledge needed to successfully transfer a new offering onto a full production line.

 

The MarediModa Cannes trade show is returning to the French Riviera's Palais des Festivals from October 22 - 24, 2025. This essential industry event will exclusively feature over a hundred new collections of fabrics and accessories for Summer 2027 beachwear, underwear, and athleisure from Europe's top textile manufacturers.

MarediModa continues to serve as the definitive showcase for premium and upper-medium market fabrics, pairing business with creative inspiration.

Visitors will get exclusive, early access to the official Spring/Summer 2027 Trend Book, ‘Making Waves.’ The theme encourages the fashion community to go beyond surface aesthetics, challenge norms, and drive meaningful transformation toward a more conscious future.

The show highlights young talent through The Link, a premier talent-scouting competition. In 2025, the contest achieved a record-breaking year with 128 projects submitted from 37 countries. Nine finalists, who explored creative boundaries in beachwear, underwear, and athleisure, will present their creations in a dedicated atelier and feature in a fashion show on October 23.

MarediModa is moving past static displays with three new experiences: Flash! (bringing beachwear fabrics to life through prototype garments and exclusive photo/video shoots), ATH (exploring athleisure trends where fashion meets performance), and Seam (celebrating private label craftsmanship).

The event also champions sustainability and excellence. The Lycra Company will host a key seminar on October 22 titled, ‘From Fiber to Sustainable Swimwear: A Blueprint for Collaboration,’ addressing how innovation and partnership are reshaping the future of fashion.

Furthermore, the prestigious French brand Eres will be honored with the 2025 Creative Excellent Award for its lasting contribution to fashion, product excellence, and its iconic, minimalist approach to lingerie and beachwear.

Since its founding in 2002, MarediModa has established itself as the leading international show dedicated to European textile excellence, focusing on quality, sustainability, and creativity to shape the future of intimate and swimwear apparel.

 

The global hemp fiber market is projected to grow from $20.96 billion in 2025 to $70.93 billion by 2029, expanding at a compound annual growth rate (CAGR) of 35.6 per cent. This rapid expansion is driven by a renewed focus on environmental sustainability, high demand from the textile and apparel industries, a surge in hemp cultivation, and broader awareness of sustainable fabric alternatives.

A core driver of this growth is the increasing legalization of industrial hemp worldwide. Derived from the Cannabis sativa plant, industrial hemp is valued globally for various products. Progressive legislation is directly fueling the use of its fibers and seeds. For instance, in Australia, support for legalization surpassed opposition for the first time in February 2024, signaling a global shift that will continue to bolster the market.

Hemp's natural, renewable, and biodegradable properties align perfectly with the global emphasis on a circular economy. This factor, combined with the wider adoption of hemp-derived textiles, makes it a superior choice for sustainable manufacturing.

Companies are innovating to secure their market presence by expanding hemp's use into new sectors like personal care and hygiene. For example, in April 2022, Regenerative International Female Inc. launched a hemp-based line of menstrual hygiene products. These eco-friendly pads combine hemp and organic cotton and feature a biodegradable backsheet, leveraging hemp’s natural antimicrobial nature to offer a comfortable, non-synthetic alternative.

Looking ahead, major trends include the use of hemp fiber in Sustainable Packaging, the Paper and Pulp sector, and the Automotive and Construction industries. This broad expansion is further supported by continuous progress and refinement in hemp processing methods.

 

The Asian Development Bank (ADB) has signed a $30 million sustainability-linked loan (SLL) agreement with Envoy Textiles, marking the bank’s first-ever SLL in Bangladesh. This landmark financing deal signals a major shift toward integrating environmental accountability with industrial funding in the country’s crucial manufacturing sector.

A sustainability-linked loan is a forward-looking debt instrument designed to incentivize companies by linking its financial terms directly to their performance on specific environmental and social goals. For Envoy, the loan's terms are tied to key performance indicators (KPIs) focused on two main goals; namely, increasing the total installed rooftop solar capacity and achieving specific reduction in greenhouse gas emissions.

By embedding these metrics, the ADB aims to drive measurable climate action and industrial modernization across Bangladesh’s massive ready-made garment (RMG) sector, which accounts for over 80 per cent of the country’s total export earnings.

Envoy will use the loan to fund the design and construction of a new automated spinning unit at its Jamirdia plant. This expansion will boost the company's annual yarn production capacity by 4,550 tons, primarily supporting its in-house denim fabric production.

Crucially, the financing will also cover the installation of 3.5 megawatts-peak (MWp) of rooftop solar panels. This significant renewable energy investment is expected to substantially reduce the factory’s carbon emissions, directly supporting Bangladesh’s national decarbonization targets under the Paris Agreement and its Vision 2041 development plan. A portion of the loan will also refinance short-term working capital, freeing up resources for further operational innovation.

Envoy, a pioneer in sustainable textile production and the world's first denim manufacturer to receive Platinum LEED certification, is positioned to lead this transformation.

According to Hoe Yung Jeong, Country Director, Asian Development Bank, this partnership advances environmental sustainability and sets a new standard for modernization and resilience in the garment industry.

As the world’s second-largest garment exporter, Bangladesh faces mounting global pressure to decarbonize supply chains. The success of the ADB-Envoy partnership demonstrates how green finance can act as a catalyst, rewarding manufacturers for turning environmental responsibility into a core business and a source of competitive advantage.

 

Profit Purpose and Pixels The new equation in apparel manufacturing

 

The global textile and apparel industry, one of the oldest and most resource-intensive sectors, is at a crossroads. Once defined solely by low-cost mass production and global export networks, it is now being reshaped by two transformative forces: sustainability and digital innovation. Rising consumer expectations, tightening regulations, and technological breakthroughs are forcing companies to rethink not only how clothes are made, but also how they are sold, used, and recycled. This is not a mere industry adjustment, it is a paradigm shift that could determine which brands thrive and which fade in the coming decade.

Growth amid transformation

Despite mounting challenges, the textile sector continues to grow, underscoring its economic weight in global trade and manufacturing. According to multiple market forecasts, growth remains steady, albeit with regional shifts and structural disruptions.

Table: Global textile market projections

Year

Market Size ($bn)

2024

$1.9 - $2.1

2029

$857.6 - $915.9

2034

$4.0 - $4.4

Asia-Pacific, home to the world’s largest manufacturing hubs in China, India, Bangladesh, and Vietnam, dominates with more than half the global market share. Yet, regions like North America and Europe are redefining their value proposition by investing in innovation, automation, and nearshoring. This reflects a dual trend: production remains rooted in Asia, while consumer-facing innovation is flourishing in developed economies.

There are several growth drivers that are boosting the sector. Conscious consumers are one of them with rising demand for sustainable, ethically produced garments. The rapid e-commerce expansion with digital platforms enabling borderless retail access has also been a major booster. Then there this the whole aspect of technological integration as AI, blockchain, 3D printing, and automation are powering efficiency.

Breaking the fast fashion cycle

The apparel industry’s take-make-dispose model, popularized by fast fashion, is now under scrutiny. The sector generates nearly 92 million tons of textile waste annually, and contributes up to 10% of global carbon emissions, a figure larger than international aviation and shipping combined.

Brands are facing growing pressure from governments, activists, and consumers to move toward circular business models, where waste is minimized, and materials remain in use for longer.

There are numerous notable case studies of brands working actively towards a sustainable business modes who together, represent a radical departure from the disposable ethos of fast fashion..

Patagonia's worn wear program: The outdoor apparel company, a pioneer in sustainability, has successfully implemented a comprehensive repair, reuse, and recycling program. Through its ‘Worn Wear’ initiative, Patagonia encourages customers to repair their gear rather than replace it, offers certified used clothing for sale, and provides an avenue for recycling garments at the end of their life. This approach not only reduces waste but also builds brand loyalty by promoting a philosophy of conscious consumption.

Primark's take-back scheme: In a move to address textile waste, fast-fashion giant Primark introduced a take-back scheme in its UK stores. Customers can return unwanted clothing, footwear, and textiles, which are then re-used or recycled by partners. This initiative helps divert millions of garments from landfills each month and shows how even large-scale, high-volume retailers are being compelled to participate in the circular economy.

The rise of rental services: Businesses like Rent the Runway and smaller niche players are pioneering an access-based model. Instead of owning an item, consumers can rent it for a specific period. This increases the utilization rate of a single garment, reducing the overall demand for new production and aligning with the principles of a shared, rather than owned, economy.

Supply chain reinvented, from opacity to transparency

Global apparel supply chains, long criticized for low wages, unsafe conditions, and environmental harm, are being forced into the light. Technology is playing a central role in this reinvention, tackling issues ranging from labor exploitation to inefficient inventory management.

Table: Common supply chain challenges and solutions

Challenge

Impact on business

Technology-driven solution

Lack of Transparency

Unethical labor, environmental harm, difficulty in tracking products.

Blockchain: Provides a secure and immutable record of an item’s journey from raw material to final product.

Demand Forecasting

Overstocking, stockouts, and financial loss.

Artificial Intelligence (AI): Analyzes historical sales, market trends, and external factors to provide more accurate predictions.

Prolonged Lead Times

Missed seasonal trends, reduced competitiveness.

Automation & Digital Platforms: Streamline operations, improve communication, and allow for real-time tracking of production.

Sustainability

Environmental footprint, consumer and regulatory pressure.

Digital Printing & Waterless Dyeing: Reduce water usage and waste, offering a greener alternative to traditional processes.

For many companies, the supply chain has become the battleground where reputations are made or lost. A single scandal whether related to factory conditions or environmental negligence can erode consumer trust overnight.

Industry at an inflection point

The next decade will test whether the apparel sector can align profitability with responsibility. Several trends are emerging as non-negotiables for future success:

Circular design: Moving beyond recycling to design garments with end-of-life in mind.

Digital-first operations: AI-driven forecasting, 3D sampling, and virtual try-ons will define competitiveness.

Localized production: Nearshoring and microfactories could reduce carbon footprints while improving speed-to-market.

Regulatory push: Governments, especially in the EU, are enforcing stricter sustainability and reporting norms.

As one apparel executive recently put it, “The industry is no longer just about selling more clothes it’s about selling the right clothes, made the right way, for the right reasons.”

Stitching the future

The textile and apparel industry is undergoing a once-in-a-generation transformation. Growth will continue, but the terms of that growth are changing. Companies that embrace sustainability, transparency, and digital agility are likely to thrive, while those clinging to outdated fast-fashion models risk irrelevance. The industry’s future will not be written in factories alone it will be sewn together by the choices of consumers, regulators, and innovators who demand that fashion’s next chapter be not just stylish, but sustainable.

 

The Ministry of Textiles has launched the 'Swadeshi Campaign' across India to significantly increase domestic consumption of Indian handloom, handicrafts, and textile products. Running for six to nine months, the campaign aims to reposition Indian textiles as powerful symbols of pride, style, and heritage, particularly among urban youth and Gen Z consumers.

The core goals of the 'Swadeshi Campaign' include stimulating domestic textile consumption, directly empowering weavers, artisans, and textile MSMEs, and aligning with major government initiatives. These initiatives include the Production Linked Incentive (PLI) scheme for textiles, the PM MITRA Parks, and the One District One Product (ODOP) program.

A major focus of this campaign is to encourage institutional support. The campaign will urge government ministries, Public Sector Undertakings (PSUs), and educational institutions to adopt Indian-made textiles for uniforms and furnishings.

The campaign's slogan, ‘Swadeshi fabric is the pride of the nation - this is India’s identity’, will be promoted through various awareness channels, including targeted social media outreach, public events, and partnerships with state governments.

The campaign is strategically timed to capitalize on India's expanding textile and clothing market, which is valued at $179 billion in 2024 and growing at a CAGR of over 7 per cent.

Domestic household consumption currently accounts for 58 per cent of the market and is growing at 8.19 per cent annually, signaling robust consumer demand. By targeting the digitally-savvy youth, the 'Swadeshi Campaign' seeks to accelerate this growth and ensure that local artisans and manufacturers benefit directly from the nation's economic momentum.

 

Seef Properties has launched the first Kiabi store in Bahrain, at Seef Mall – Seef District. This debut is the result of a partnership with Al Futtaim Group, Kiabi’s regional franchise partner.

Kiabi is globally recognized for offering accessible and stylish fashion for women, men, and children of all ages. The brand's philosophy blends comfort, affordability, and French elegance, offering a comprehensive range of everyday essentials, seasonal collections, footwear, and accessories.

In line with its commitment to sustainability, Kiabi integrates eco-conscious practices into its operations. A significant portion of its products are made from environmentally friendly fibers, with the long-term goal of transitioning all collections to sustainable materials.

With existing stores in the UAE and Kuwait, this new Bahrain location strengthens Kiabi’s overall presence in the GCC region, bringing its unique fashion philosophy to a new audience.

Duaij Al Romaihi, Chief Commercial Officer, Seef Properties, states, welcoming Kiabi is a key step in their strategic redevelopment plan to revitalize the mall. This addition enhances the brand’s position as a leading shopping and leisure destination in Bahrain, he notes, adding, it reflects the company’s ongoing efforts to attract top-tier global brands.

Simon Naga, Vice President -Asia and Fashion, Al-Futtaim Group, call this launch a ‘key milestone’ in their GCC growth strategy. The company aims to offer a memorable shopping experience that blends the latest fashion trends, high-quality products, and French flair—all at affordable prices, he adds.

Since its inception in 1997, Seef Mall – Seef District has remained a premier shopping and entertainment destination, continuing to attract visitors from across the GCC with its diverse mix of international brands and family-friendly options.

 

The Indian Textile Accessories and Machinery Manufacturers' Association (ITAMMA) held its 82nd Annual General Meeting (AGM) on September 24, 2025, in Mumbai, with a dual focus on critical industry issues: Packaging Aspects and preparing the sector for 'Viksit Bharat 2047.'

ND Mhatre, Director General (Tech) ITAMMA, highlighted, customer rejections due to poor packaging remain a major complaint, especially with textile machinery increasingly featuring delicate electronic components. To address this, ITAMMA hosted Dr Babu Rao Guduri from the Indian Institute of Packaging (IIP), a national apex body established by the Ministry of Commerce. Dr. Guduri provided detailed insights and case studies on the importance of robust and sustainable packaging for promoting exports.

Omprakash Mantry, President, ITAMMA noted, comprising roughly 3,000 units and expected to reach $2.02 billion by 2033, the Indian textile machinery industry needs to innovate in packaging materials like woven sacks and FIBCs, and adopt eco-friendly, paper-based alternatives to reduce polymer dependence.

The AGM also featured consultant Avinash Mayekar of Suvin Expo LLP, who presented a strategic roadmap for the Indian Textile Engineering Industry (ITEI) to contribute to the nation's 2047 vision.

The national textile goal is ambitious: $600 billion in textile exports and a $1.8 trillion domestic market. Mayekar stressed, achieving this requires ITEI to maximize its global market share through strategic initiative like import substitution, technology and OEM development, and infrastructure creation.

The technology areas that need to be specifically focused include: manmade fiber spinning (airjet, open-end), high-speed weaving (rapier, airjet, waterjet looms), state-of-the-art processing range, and advanced technical textiles machinery.

In a related event, ITAMMA launched the 'Innovation Scouting Mission' in association with the ‘BK Mehta Endowment Fund.’ This initiative allows students from textile institutes to work in member factories for a day or two to explore and develop innovative solutions for increasing productivity and reducing costs. This mission, an extension of the previously successful 'BK Mehta Technology Networking Mission-2030' series, aims to directly connect academia, industry experts, and government bodies to foster the next generation of textile engineering innovation.

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