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The just concluded annual Global Fibre Conference in Dornbirn put forth a complex picture of the synthetic fibre industry. While the conference highlighted overcapacity and the economic fallout of current trade policies, it also showcased promising technical advancements in recycling and biobased fibres, hinting at a future shaped by innovation and sustainability.
A glut of synthetic fibres and economic disruptions
The opening session, dedicated to strategic issues, delivered a sobering assessment of the global market. Overcapacity in synthetic fibres remains a massive problem, with polyester (PIF) and nylon (NIF) production exceeding demand by almost 52 per cent and 29 per cent, respectively. Analysts say, at current growth rates, it would take until 2050 to absorb the existing capacity, suggesting that a sustained increase in prices is highly unlikely.
Adding to the market's woes, current US tariff policies are guaranteed to cause price hikes, particularly for American consumers, while also leading to widespread disruptions and supply chain shifts. For example, a recent Crisil Ratings analysis revealed Indian home textile manufacturers are bracing for a 5-10 per cent decline in revenue and a drop in operating profits due to the 50 per cent US tariff imposed on August 27.
The conference also raised concerns about global climate policies, with Prof Radermacher an expert, noting that the current approach of concentrating decarbonization efforts in industrialized nations is both costly and ineffective, underscoring a fundamental disconnect between environmentalism and sustainability.
Recycling vs. biobased, a race to scale
The technical sessions provided a more optimistic outlook, focusing on cutting-edge research in recycling and biobased fibres. Many players showcased their technical progress across all textile-to-textile recycling methods, mechanical, thermo-mechanical, chemical, and enzymatic. However, some hurdles remain before these technologies can achieve industrial scale. Challenges include a lack of sustained demand, an inability to compete on cost with virgin fibres, questions about total process yield, and a lack of common feedstock and recyclate standards.
A particularly hot topic was the future of bottle-to-fibre recycling. While it has been a common practice, the conference highlighted that it is now under pressure. The packaging industry, which uses one-third of global PET, is failing to meet its own recycling targets, creating competition for recycled PET (rPET). This competition, combined with the fact that two-thirds of all PET goes to fibre production, suggests that relying on bottles as a feedstock is not a sustainable, long-term solution. The textile industry will need to establish its own circular supply chain based on its own waste.
In contrast, biosynthetics emerged as a strong contender for a faster path to market. These "drop-in" solutions can be integrated into existing manufacturing processes, bypassing many of the challenges plaguing recycling, such as high capital expenditure and quality issues. They also boast of superior Life Cycle Assessment (LCA) values, particularly when compared to chemical recycling.
The conference focused on biobased textiles, including man-made cellulosics (MMCFs), which are highly versatile and use renewable feedstock. There was also a notable presence from the cotton and wool industries, challenging outdated myths about their environmental footprints. Overall, a major takeaway was the need to ensure that the inevitable volume growth of global fibre production is not exclusively absorbed by synthetics.
Innovations and future
Beyond the main sessions, the conference covered other critical topics, including microplastics (or fibre shedding), safe chemicals management, and new innovations for protection and defense markets. The diversity of topics and the opportunity for one-on-one discussions highlighted the event's role as a vital hub for industry knowledge.
The conference also celebrated the next generation of innovators, with a special shout-out to Ing Leonie Beek, was awarded the prestigious Paul Schlack Prize for her groundbreaking research on oil-absorbing biomimetic textiles. Beek, a researcher at the Institute of Textile Technology (ITA) at RWTH Aachen University, developed a "Bionic Oil Adsorber" (BOA) that can separate oil from water without external energy or chemicals, a technology inspired by the water fern Salvinia molesta. (Source: Dornbirn GFC, SciProfiles)
To sum up the Dornbirn Global Fibre Conference remains the premier venue for understanding the current state of the fibre industry and anticipating which innovations will be market-ready in the near future. While some presentations are highly technical, they are always framed within the context of market trends and sound industry logic, making it an essential event for anyone in the textile sector.
When the US government moved to terminate the long-standing de minimis exemption, the duty-free threshold for low-value imports, it sent a tremor through America’s small business ecosystem. For decades, the rule allowed shipments valued under $800 to enter the country without tariffs or burdensome paperwork, a lifeline for small retailers and niche importers. Now, with its removal, the shock is reverberating most acutely through the fashion and apparel industry, where margins are slim and reliance on small-batch imports is common.
Fashion and apparel sector on the edge
For Peri Olson, founder of Diesel and Lulu’s, a boutique importing premium European apparel, the change has been nothing short of a nightmare. Olson says they are taking it day by day now and they have to absorb a good deal of the costs while waiting it out to see what happens, but they can’t absorb it all. Her experience reflects a broader reality. Small-batch imports once a competitive advantage for niche labels and artisan boutiques are now saddled with tariffs, increased compliance costs, and delayed shipments. Fashion startups that thrived by bringing in unique styles from Italy, France, or the UK face a new calculus: either raise prices, cut staff, or risk closing down.
Meanwhile, large e-commerce giants like Shein and Temu often criticized for exploiting de minimis loopholes are finding ways around the rules by bulk-shipping into the US and redistributing domestically. The irony isn’t lost on small business owners: while the policy shift was partly aimed at curbing fast-fashion imports, it may end up hurting American entrepreneurs more than the overseas titans it was meant to target.
The broader economic fallout
Small businesses are not just the heart of Main Street America; they are a pillar of the national economy. They employ nearly half of the American workforce and contribute over 40 per cent of US GDP. The end of de minimis threatens to squeeze these businesses on multiple fronts. First is job losses as rising costs may force owners to reduce staff, scale back hours, or shut down. Also consumers will see higher prices as duties and shipping costs are passed down. And communities that rely on small businesses could see reduced local spending power and weakened retail ecosystems. The scale of de minimis usage underscores how significant its removal is.
Table: Impact of de minimis removal
|
Metric |
Value (FY 2024) |
|
Total shipments under de minimis |
1.36 billion |
|
Declared value of de minimis imports |
$64.6 billion |
|
Share from China |
73% |
|
Top other origins |
Canada, Mexico, UK |
Source: U.S. Customs and Border Protection, 2024
The removal has led to several winners and losers. For example, Diesel and Lulu’s facing increased shipping costs and duties on small-batch European imports are absorbing costs in the short term but are unsure of long-term survival. Merchant & Mills, a British fabric and pattern company, has already been forced to raise US retail prices by 15 per cent to offset duties. Shein & Temu the e-commerce giants are navigating around restrictions by bulk importing, potentially gaining even greater advantage over smaller rivals.
Why the de minimis door was shut
The decision to eliminate the exemption comes amid a heated political debate. Both Democrats and Republicans have criticized de minimis as a loophole that disproportionately benefited Chinese e-commerce giants. In 2023, bills such as the Import Fairness Act gained traction, targeting Shein and Temu by name. US Customs and Border Protection (CBP) too warned that the sheer volume of de minimis packages over 1 billion annually was overwhelming inspection capacity, creating risks of unsafe or counterfeit goods slipping through. Meanwhile domestic manufacturers, unions, and textile associations pushed for reform, arguing that unchecked duty-free imports undermined US jobs. Yet critics argue that the policy was applied too broadly. Instead of narrowly targeting high-volume importers exploiting the system, it hit small businesses importing in good faith.
“It’s like using a hammer when what you needed was a scalpel,” said Amy O’Neill, a Washington-based trade policy consultant.
However, industry analysts warn that the burden will fall heaviest on America’s smallest players. “Small businesses are the first to feel the effect, and they feel it the most acutely, but that effect does trickle down to the wider economy,” says Jacob Bennett, CEO and cofounder of Crux Analytics. “The paperwork sounds difficult now, but this will get normalized, and ultimately you’ll still be left with the increased cost,” added Martin Balaam, CEO of Pimberly. The consensus therefore is that even as businesses adapt to the administrative side of the change, the financial weight will remain.
In response to the growing threat of heatwaves, researchers at The Hong Kong Polytechnic University (PolyU) have developed next-generation personal cooling solutions including iActive Intelligent Sportswear, a garment that uses artificial ‘sweat glands’ to quickly eject perspiration, keeping skin dry and removing sweat up to three times faster than a person's peak sweating rate.
The second technology is called Omni-Cool-Dry which is a breathable, skin-like fabric that reflects solar radiation and emits body heat, lowering skin temperature by about 5°C compared to conventional fabrics.
Thermo-adaptive soft robotic garment which uses temperature-responsive actuators to adjust insulation, keeping its inner surface up to 10°C cooler than standard gear in temperatures reaching 120°C and lastly, a non-invasive wearable SweatMD that uses a microfluidic network to analyze sweat and track biomarkers like glucose and potassium, providing real-time health insights on a smartphone.
These innovations form a complete AI-ready ecosystem, with sensors gathering data and intelligent clothing responding with targeted actions. The work has earned significant international recognition, including a Gold Medal at the 2025 Geneva Invention Exhibition and The Fiber Society's Distinguished Achievement Award for Professor Dahua Shou, Limin Endowed Young Scholar in Advanced Textiles Technologies, Associate Professor of the PolyU School of Fashion and Textiles, Associate Director, Research Centre of Textiles for Future Fashion, and Associate Director, PolyU-Xingguo Technology and Innovation Research Institute. The PolyU team’s goal is to bridge the gap between fundamental research and real-world applications to address global challenges.
Luxury sales in India are experiencing double-digit growth as the number of high-income households in India is projected to double by 2030. This demographic shift, combined with rising disposable incomes, is fueling a strong appetite for luxury goods and experiences.
Luxury brands are increasingly creating exclusive products and collections tailored to Indian tastes and cultural events. For example, some watch brands are launching India-inspired timepieces, and luxury porcelain houses are creating sculptures of religious figures.
India's vibrant festive and wedding seasons are a major catalyst for luxury spending. The high number of auspicious wedding dates in 2025 has created a significant opportunity for luxury fashion houses, jewelers, and other high-end brands.
The luxury real estate market is also booming, with sales of homes priced at Rs 4 crore and above increasing by 85 per cent in H1, FY25. This reflects a growing consumer confidence and a desire for premium living. While major cities like Delhi and
Mumbai remain luxury hubs, brands are increasingly expanding into Tier-I and Tier-II cities. E-commerce platforms are also playing a crucial role by making luxury goods accessible to consumers in smaller towns.
Younger, affluent consumers, including Gen Z, are driving a new trend. They are not just buying products but are also investing in luxury experiences and ‘quiet luxury,’ which focuses on quality and craftsmanship rather than overt branding.
Overall, the luxury market in India is poised for a record-breaking year. It's a key growth engine for global luxury brands looking to expand their presence, especially as other major markets like China face a slowdown.
The European Union has launched an anti-dumping investigation into imports of PET Spunbond fabrics from China.
The investigation was initiated after a complaint was filed on August 8, 2025, by two companies, Freudenberg Performance Materials and Johns Manville (JM). They allege, Chinese imports of this product are being ‘dumped’- sold at unfairly low prices- which are causing significant harm to the European Union's domestic industry.
The product in question is a specific type of non-woven fabric made from polyester filaments. It's used in various applications and is defined by its thickness (between 0.5 mm and 1.8 mm) and weight (more than 70 g/sq m), among other technical specifications.
The complainants claim, it's inappropriate to use China’s domestic prices and production costs for comparison because of ‘significant distortions’ in the Chinese market. They cite a 2024 Commission document on market distortions in China, pointing to issues with land, energy, capital, raw materials, and labor, particularly within the textile industry.
To support their claim, they provide extensive evidence, including numerous Chinese government policy documents and five-year plans, such as the ‘Made in China (2025)’ initiative. These documents show a pattern of state intervention and support that distorts the market, they argue.
As a result, the Commission will not use Chinese domestic prices to determine a fair value. Instead, it will construct a ‘normal value’ for the product based on undistorted prices from a representative country. The complainants have suggested Turkey and Thailand as potential benchmarks.
The evidence provided by Freudenberg Performance Materials and JM suggests that the low-priced Chinese imports have negatively impacted the European industry. They claim. this has led to a drop in sales, lower prices, and a decrease in market share for European manufacturers, causing substantial harm to the industry's financial health and overall performance.
Fashion designer Christian Siriano brought a touch of cinematic magic to New York Fashion Week, transforming the athleisure section of a Macy’s store in Herald Square into a runway. His Spring 2026 collection took the audience on a journey from black-and-white to full Technicolor, inspired by old Hollywood.
The star-studded front row was a reflection of the theme, with Whoopi Goldberg and Oprah sitting alongside singer Lizzo. The show opened with longtime Siriano muse Coco Rocha, who strutted down the catwalk in a striking black-and-white striped and polka-dot organza blazer with a matching skirt and hat.
Siriano said his collection was inspired by actress Marlene Dietrich and her style, which effortlessly blended masculine and feminine elements. The show began with black-and-white looks featuring a variety of textures, including sequined plaid, polka dots, and stripes. The collection then shifted dramatically, as if a film had suddenly burst into color, with pieces like a vibrant Tiffany blue ball gown and a Barbie pink deconstructed tuxedo dress.
Models' hair was styled in slick buns with a single pin curl, maintaining the old Hollywood glamour. In a modern twist, some structured blazers were paired with nothing but tights. The collection featured a range of tailored blazers and voluminous bubble dresses, showcasing Siriano's play with patterns and structure.
Beyond the fashion, Siriano continues to be a champion of inclusivity, featuring models of all sizes, genders, and backgrounds. He says, it’s just important to have a mix of beautiful people.
Reports from multiple sources indicate, Francesca Bellettini, Deputy CEO, Kering, is expected to be appointed as the new CEO, Gucci. This change in leadership comes less than a year after Stefano Cantino took the helm, signaling an urgent effort by Kering to stabilize and revitalize its most crucial brand.
Historically accounting for nearly half of Kering's total sales, Gucci has been facing significant challenges. The brand's performance has faltered, with sales declining by 21 per cent in FY24 and a further by 25 per cent in H1, FY25. This prolonged weakness has become a major concern for Luca de Meo, CEO, Kering, who sees a swift turnaround at Gucci as his most important task. The decision to replace Cantino so quickly underscores the immense pressure to deliver immediate results in a highly competitive luxury market.
Bellettini is widely regarded as one of the most accomplished and trusted executives in the luxury industry. Her appointment is a strategic move to leverage her proven track record of success. She is credited with the incredible revitalization of Saint Laurent, where she served as CEO for over a decade. During her tenure, she grew the brand's revenue sixfold, transforming it into a major powerhouse within the Kering portfolio.
Bellettini is also known for her ability to balance a clear creative vision with strong commercial discipline, a skill that is seen as essential for Gucci's turnaround. The timing of her appointment is critical. It comes just weeks before Denma, new Creative Director is set to debut his vision for the brand in Milan on September 23. Bellettini was closely involved in bringing Demna to Gucci, and her leadership ensures a seamless and coherent alignment between the brand's creative and business strategies.
This move is one of the first major decisions by Meo, and signals a decisive shift toward stabilizing the group's biggest asset. The urgency is so high that Kering has reportedly postponed its plans to acquire the remaining stake in Valentino to focus its energy entirely on Gucci's recovery. Bellettini's mission will be to restore Gucci's financial health, redefine its brand positioning, and rebuild the cultural relevance that made it a global icon.
In an effort to boost cooperation with Egyptian companies, Karl Mayer along with 18 leading German textile machinery manufacturers, is on a business trip to Cairo and Alexandria. The company will attend business meetings on September 22 in Cairo and September 24 in Alexandria, with each session featuring a large symposium, B2B networking events, and visits to textile manufacturers.
The trip is being organized by SBS Systems for Business Solutions and the German-Arab Chamber of Industry and Commerce in Egypt, in close collaboration with the VDMA. A renowned manufacturer of warp knitting and warp preparation equipment, Karl Mayer is participating to present itself as a full-service partner for its customers.
The brand’s discussions will focus on the entire package they offer, from after-sales care and customer support to training and development, says Adam Stevenson, Sales Representative, Karl Mayer.
Stevenson describes Egypt as a promising and exciting market for Karl Mayer, noting, Chinese and Turkish textile companies are moving or opening new production facilities in the country. He expressed optimism about meeting new customers and companies interested in entering the knitting sector.
The recently concluded BRICS+ Fashion Summit in Moscow was more than just a series of runway shows; it was a powerful platform that highlighted a fundamental shift in the global fashion industry. Regional fashion markets, long overshadowed by traditional Western capitals, are now asserting their unique identities and economic might, charting their own paths to global recognition.
From the vibrant textiles of Brazil to the rich heritage of Africa and the innovative spirit of Asia, the summit's country and regional sessions underscored a shared vision: to grow local industries by leveraging cultural authenticity, embracing sustainable practices, and forging new cross-border collaborations.
The Brazilian and African Renaissance: From coffee to catwalks
Brazil’s fashion industry is rapidly expanding its global footprint. As Bruno Simões, Curator of ApexBrasil, noted, "Brazil and Russia are two superpowers that know how to sell. Brazil exports fashion products worth $3 billion, and our manufacturers and designers are known worldwide." He drew a parallel to Brazilian coffee, which was not always globally recognized but gained international renown through concerted promotional efforts. The same, he believes, is now happening with Brazilian fashion, as designers combine national motifs and sustainable practices.
Ekaterina Kondakova, Head of the Russian Export Center, echoed this sentiment, noting that over 70% of global companies now use identity as a key aspect of their promotion. She pointed out that more than 40% of Brazilian brands have focused on national motifs and eco-products, resulting in a 30% increase in their international presence.
Simultaneously, the African fashion industry is experiencing a remarkable boom. With a population of over 1.5 billion and a burgeoning middle class, the continent represents a colossal market. Susan Sabet of the Egyptian Fashion & Design Council highlighted Egypt’s famous cotton, and Anis Montacer of Tunis Fashion Week emphasized the importance of traditional embroidery.
Meanwhile, South Africa is emerging as a leader. David Tlale, a creative director from South Africa, explained that major international brands are increasingly outsourcing production to the nation. "We are strategically building South Africa as a raw material production hub serving both our continent and European markets," Tlale said.
Stephen Manzini, CEO of Soweto Fashion Week, underscored the foundation of South African fashion: its unique cultural heritage. As he put it, "Our designs are deeply rooted in the history and cultural tapestry of our nation. It is precisely this authentic tradition that empowers our designers to create truly distinctive pieces."
Asia's Rise: Blending tradition with technology
The Asian fashion industry, a blend of ancient traditions and cutting-edge technology, is also on an accelerated growth trajectory. Nandini Bhalla, Editor-in-Chief of The Word. Magazine in India, pointed out the immense potential of the Indian market, where 65% of consumers are under 35 years old and a staggering 500 million people use social media. She emphasized the importance of sustainability, a principle deeply embedded in Indian culture, noting that past generations "never throw anything away – they mend torn clothes and pass them to younger generations."
Jay Ishak, CEO of MyFashionChamber in Malaysia, outlined five key areas for international collaboration, including technological partnerships and alliances in ecology. He noted that Asian designers are increasingly incorporating modern technologies like blockchain and AI into their work while preserving traditional crafts. Liliek Setiawan, CEO of Sekar Lima in Indonesia, highlighted the country's abundance of natural fibers, from banana leaves to bamboo, and called for large-scale demand to make eco-friendly production commercially viable.
Russia's domestic momentum and global ambitions
The summit also shed light on the burgeoning Russian market, where domestic brands are experiencing unprecedented loyalty. Natalya Mironova of PROfashion media holding revealed that Russian consumers are purchasing domestic products five times more frequently than foreign alternatives, a trend she dubbed the "Wear Russian" movement. This has fueled ambitious international expansion, with Russian brands like Brusnika and 12 Storeez targeting the Middle East.
Legal expert Larisa Grigorieva stressed the importance of intellectual property protection for brands seeking to expand internationally, a sentiment echoed by Mihajlo Matković of Serbia. He emphasized that for luxury brands, consumers want to feel they are "supporting local manufacturing."
The discussions at the BRICS+ Fashion Summit painted a clear picture of a decentralized and multipolar fashion world. The event solidified Moscow’s position as a key nexus for new fashion alliances, where regional powerhouses are no longer just followers of global trends but are actively shaping them, driven by their unique cultural codes and a commitment to sustainable, authentic growth.
In a world where fast fashion often dominates, a different conversation took center stage in Moscow. The recently concluded BRICS+ Fashion Summit, held in conjunction with Moscow Fashion Week, wasn't just about the latest trends; it was a powerful statement on the enduring link between culture and costume, and a collective call for ethical and equitable practices in the global fashion industry.
From August 28 to September 2, 2025, industry leaders, designers, and artisans from over 60 countries, including Brazil, China, India, and South Africa, converged to discuss everything from the "art of transformation" through costume to the delicate ethics of cultural borrowing. The event served as a vibrant and vital platform for the Global South to assert its creative and economic power.
Beyond the Runway: The power of costume and cultural code
The summit's business program delved deep into the philosophical and practical aspects of fashion. One panel, "The Art of Transformation," explored how costume transcends simple clothing to become a vehicle for storytelling and identity. As Vadim Volya, Art Director of the New Russian Circus, aptly put it, “Costumes have a special task, unlike regular clothing. They must convey meaning. In theater or cinema, a costume carries far more information than simply representing the character—it must fit the artistic context of the work.” This sentiment was echoed in discussions on how designers are using traditional symbols, from Russian national motifs to African patterns, to create modern, meaningful collections.
The "Land Code" discussion was a highlight, with experts agreeing that traditional crafts are not just an inspiration but a powerful competitive advantage. Hind Joudar, Founder and CEO of Morocco Fashion Week, highlighted the fine line between appreciation and exploitation, sharing the frustration of seeing traditional Moroccan slippers, "babouches," sold by famous couturiers for exorbitant prices with no benefit to the original artisans. “Economic opportunity is vital, but it must respect ancestral traditions and operate fairly,” Joudar stressed.
This challenge was a central theme, with speakers calling for stronger intellectual property frameworks to protect folk crafts. Vyacheslav Dolgov, Chairman of the Board of the National Union of Folk Art Crafts, described Russia’s approach, where crafts like Gzhel ceramics are protected by a "land code" that ties them to their place of origin. “This approach is correct because the birthplace of tradition is sacred,” he said.
The Golden Rule: Navigating cultural appropriation
The most poignant and timely discussions revolved around the charged topic of cultural appropriation. Panelists universally agreed that a "golden rule" must be established in the industry: disclosing sources of inspiration.
Ajai Vir Singh, Managing Director of Colombo Fashion Week, was direct in his assessment. “For years, European brands have used local crafts without revealing where they borrowed these motifs. Cultural appropriation in any form creates inequality.”
Montenegrin designer Marina Banović provided a practical example of ethical collaboration. She detailed her work with the local Albanian community to create a commercial line inspired by the traditional "jubleta" costume. The collaboration ensures the community benefits directly from the sales. “When you don't disclose a design's origins, you cross into appropriation territory,” Banović said. “We strive to protect the source—respecting origins is essential because without that respect, commerce steals its soul.”
Tery Carola, CEO and Founder of Seychelles Fashion Week, added another layer to the conversation, highlighting the importance of understanding cultural context beyond just citing a source. She used the example of Seychelles nuts, a natural resource that has been used for medicines and cosmetics without proper acknowledgment. Thanks to recent legislation, this natural wealth now benefits the Seychellois people, creating a clear parallel for how fashion can become a tool for economic and cultural empowerment.
A new world order for fashion
The summit’s overarching message was clear: fashion is a powerful tool for cultural diplomacy and economic development, particularly for emerging economies. The convergence of so many diverse voices in Moscow signaled a collective desire to decentralize the traditional fashion power structure and create a more inclusive, ethical, and collaborative global industry. By putting culture, heritage, and people at the forefront of the conversation, the BRICS+ Fashion Summit and Moscow Fashion Week laid the groundwork for a more thoughtful and respectful future for fashion.
