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Recording an impressive production of 90.57 lakh bales, Gujarat has emerged as India’s top cotton-producing state for the 2023-24 crop year. Shared by Pabitra Margherita, Minister of State for Textiles during the winter session of Parliament, this data positions Gujarat ahead of other key cotton-producing states like Maharashtra and Telangana. During this period, India’s total cotton production is estimated to be around 325.22 lakh bales, as per Central Government estimates.
The Central Government is implementing several initiatives like the Rebate of State and Central Taxes and Levies (RoSCTL) for apparel, garments, and made-ups to boost India’s textile exports. It also supports other textile products through the Remission of Duties and Taxes on Exported Products (RoDTEP) scheme. Besides, financial assistance is also being provided to Export Promotion Councils and trade bodies to participate in international trade fairs, exhibitions, and buyer-seller meets.
A major upcoming initiative of the government is the mega textile show – Bharat Tex 2025, set to take place in February 2025. This event will showcase India’s advancements in textiles and fashion while promoting the country as a global hub for sourcing and investment.
In addition, India has signed 14 Free Trade Agreements (FTAs) and six Preferential Trade Agreements (PTAs) with various nations, enhancing market access across the cotton textile value chain.
The government has also introduced a premium cotton brand, Kasturi Cotton Bharat to offer 29 mm and 30 mm long-staple varieties. Developed through a public-private partnership, Kasturi Cotton provides standardised, certified, and traceable products. By October 2024, the brand certified 47,600 bales, gaining global recognition at international fashion expos.
The ICAR-Central Institute for Cotton Research (CICR) in Nagpur is also promoting cotton research with initiatives like genome editing, transgenic research, and AI-driven solutions. Over the last decade, it has launched around 333 cotton varieties including 191 non-Bt and 142 Bt.
The Carreau du Temple in Paris hosted Blossom Premiere Vision on December 11-12, 2024, attracting 1,242 visitors to the exclusive event dedicated to pre-collections for premium and luxury fashion brands. Held in the heart of the Haut Marais, a district rich in textile and fashion heritage, the event brought together 86 international suppliers, including 15 new exhibitors, from leading fashion countries such as Italy, France, Japan, and the United Kingdom.
Blossom Premiere Vision showcased Spring-Summer 2026 textile, leather, and accessories pre-collections, offering attendees the opportunity to engage with 86 top-tier experts from across the globe. The event’s growing success reflects its strong appeal, with increased visitor attendance and a larger exhibitor base, underscoring the demand for high-quality craftsmanship in fashion. The theme of craftsmanship, central to this edition, was highlighted in an engaging weaving demonstration led by expert Stephanie Lacoste.
The event also featured the second edition of Blossom PV Workshops, offering invitation-only sessions that provided an in-depth preview of the upcoming season’s materials. Focused on innovation, eco-friendly solutions, and creative designs, the workshops facilitated valuable exchanges between Premiere Vision fashion experts and luxury brands.
Florence Rousson, President of the Premiere Vision Management Board, expressed her satisfaction with the event's success, noting the importance of these interactive sessions in fostering meaningful dialogue amid challenging market conditions. Blossom Premiere Vision will return on June 4-5, 2025, presenting the Autumn-Winter 2026-2027 season.
The Textile & Apparel 360° Report 2024 by Groyyo Consulting highlights transformative trends shaping the $1.53 trillion global textile and apparel (T&A) market by 2033. With a projected CAGR of 5.8 per cent, the report underscores the growing importance of innovation, sustainability, and localization, spotlighting India's potential as a key player.
China remains the global leader in T&A exports, contributing 30 per cent of global apparel trade ($154 billion), while the EU-27 accounts for 41 per cent of readymade garment imports. Bangladesh and Vietnam sustain strong positions in apparel exports, while the EU and US dominate global imports, collectively worth $265 billion.
India’s dual role as an importer and exporter is under the spotlight. Between 2019–2023, apparel exports to the US, UK, and UAE thrived, but textile imports surgedyarn imports rose 11 per cent, and knit fabrics 4.7 per cent. This highlights challenges for local industries. India accounts for 4 per cent of global T&A exports, with yarn and fabric exports growing by 2 per cent and 1 per cent, respectively, between 2019 and 2023, although fiber exports declined by 4 per cent during the same period.
On the import side, rising demand for synthetic fibers led to an 11 per cent surge in yarn imports, while fiber imports decreased by 5.6 per cent, reflecting strengthening domestic production capabilities.
Growth in the sector is further driven by initiatives like ‘Make in India’ and the Production Linked Incentive (PLI) Scheme, which are enhancing technical and sustainable textile production while reducing dependence on imports.
“India’s integration into the global textile ecosystem presents tremendous opportunities for sustainable growth,” said Pratik Tiwari, Co-Founder, Groyyo.
The report calls for leveraging digital innovation, SME capacity-building, and government policies to solidify India’s position in the evolving global supply chain.
Alibaba Group announced it will sell its department store unit, Intime, to a consortium led by textiles firm Youngor Fashion and some of Intime's management for 7.4 billion yuan ($1.02 billion).
The sale, part of Alibaba's restructuring strategy, follows Intime's struggles amid a decline in Chinese consumer spending postCovid-19.
Alibaba expects to incur a 9.3 billion yuan loss on its initial investment in Intime.
Luxury department store Liberty has teamed up with Adidas to launch its debut sneakers collection. Set to launch on January 10, 2025, this collection, featuring vintage Liberty prints, reimagines classic Adidas silhouettes, including the Gazelle, Stan Smith, Campus 00, and Country OG styles.
Of these, the Gazelle features vibrant floral embroidery, paired with off-white stripes and gum soles for a fresh, botanical-inspired look. Meanwhile, tailored for kids, the Stan Smith strikes a balance between playfulness and sophistication with its deep navy floral design paired with intricate detailing.
In addition to the footwear, the two brands also plan to launch a co-branded apparel collection combining Adidas’s sporty aesthetic with Liberty’s artistic heritage is slated for release later in 2025. This Liberty London x Adidas Collection will be available at select retail locations, online, and via Adidas.com.
This launch follows Liberty's recent collaborations, including a limited-edition SS24 summer capsule with womenswear label The Fold, featuring designs inspired by its archival prints. Liberty’s floral motifs also starred in a Regency-inspired Bridgerton fabric collection and collaborations with brands like Puma for a print-focused streetwear line, and kidswear brands Trotters and Peppa Pig.
Iluna Group continues to set the standard for sustainable innovation in the lace industry, combining design excellence, quality, and environmental responsibility. With extensive expertise in material science and production techniques, the company leads the lace supply chain in promoting eco-conscious values.
At TexPremium 2024, Iluna Group will unveil a curated selection of cutting-edge, certified sustainable materials. Highlights include multicolored lace with iridescent effects, GRS-certified Lurex cords, glossy finishes, and dynamic overprinted designs. The new SS26 collection features high-quality Lurex nets and laces in vibrant colors made from recycled Qnova and Renycle polyamides, enhanced with Roica EF fiber for premium stretch and comfort.
Pioneering sustainability, Iluna Group has been GRS-certified since 2018 for its Green Label range, combining innovation, aesthetics, and responsibility. Through initiatives like water-saving GRS-certified prints and FSC-certified viscose, the company ensures full traceability from polymer to finished lace, tracking progress with the Higgs Index.
With sustainable production growing from 3 per cent in 2018 to over 50 per cent in 2022, Iluna Group has saved 1.5 million liters of water and recycled over 92,000 kg of polyamide to produce 7.5 million meters of Green Label lace. Recent innovations include customizable Lurex nets, organic cotton, and recycled elastomers, further solidifying Iluna’s leadership in sustainable textile design.
By blending artistry with eco-consciousness, Iluna Group redefines lace manufacturing, offering dynamic, responsible solutions for a greener future.
The Indian textiles, apparel and retail industry has around 4 per cent representation in the Fortune 500 India list featuring around 15 textile and apparel companies alongwith six retail companies.
The textile and apparel companies named in the list include Raymond, PDS, Welspun India, Vardhman Textiles, Century Textile & Industries, Arvind, Trident, Bombay Dyeing, KPR Mills, Alok Industries, Page Industries, Filatex India and RSWM.
The companies listed in the retail sector, either associated with apparel or completely involved in apparel retail include companies like Avenue Supermarts, Aditya Birla Fashion & Retail, Trent, Lifestyle International, Shoppers Stop and Arvind Fashions.
No new companies were listed in the textile, apparel and fashion retail sectors while rankings of three companies in the textile and apparel sector increased while the rankings of ten companies decline. Rankings of two retail companies increased while those of four companies declined.
The fashion industry continues to grapple with the complexities of sourcing cotton from Xinjiang, China, amidst allegations of forced labor. While many brands have pledged to avoid Xinjiang cotton, recent tests reveal its presence in nearly 20 per cent of apparel sold by major retailers in the US and worldwide. This raises concerns about the efficacy of current supply chain tracing mechanisms and the ability of brands to adhere to ethical sourcing standards.
Navigating the backlash and supply chain obfuscation
Japanese clothing company Fast Retailing owners of brand Uniqlo, recently faced backlash from Chinese consumers after its CEO stated the company does not use Xinjiang cotton. The Xinjiang Cotton Association issued a statement to refute claims on forced labor in response to remarks made by Tadashi Yanai, CEO of Fast Retailing, parent company of global fashion brand Uniqlo, in an interview with the BBC on November 28, in which he said his company is not using cotton from Xinjiang. The Association emphasized that Xinjiang cotton is one of the best in the world and strongly opposes the US using the so-called "forced labor" claims and other baseless reasons to discredit and boycott Xinjiang cotton and its products.
This incident highlights the tightrope brands walk between adhering to ethical standards and maintaining access to the lucrative Chinese market. Uniqlo's case also exemplifies the challenges of ensuring transparency in complex global supply chains. While the company claims to avoid Xinjiang cotton, one of its major suppliers, Lu Thai Textile, has historical ties with the region. Although recent reports suggest Lu Thai may have shifted its sourcing practices, the case underscores the difficulty of guaranteeing the origin of materials in multi-tiered supply chains.
All about sourcing and loopholes
The UFLPA, enacted in 2022, closed a loophole that allowed goods under $800 to enter the US without thorough customs checks. This loophole was previously exploited to import Xinjiang cotton by shipping it in small packages, bypassing scrutiny.
However, new methods of obfuscating the origin of Xinjiang cotton have emerged. One tactic involves exporting Xinjiang cotton to intermediary countries, where it is blended with local cotton and manufactured into finished goods. This makes it nearly impossible to trace the cotton back to its origin, effectively circumventing the UFLPA.
Table: Key players and their stance on Xinjiang cotton
|
Brand |
Stance on Xinjiang cotton |
Challenges |
|
Uniqlo |
Claims to avoid Xinjiang cotton |
Supply chain ties to Lu Thai Textile, facing backlash from Chinese consumers |
|
H&M, Adidas, Nike, Burberry |
Publicly distanced themselves from Xinjiang cotton |
Potential presence of Xinjiang cotton in supply chains despite efforts to avoid it |
|
Lu Thai Textile |
Previously sourced exclusively from Xinjiang, now claims to source cotton overseas |
Transparency concerns, historical ties to Xinjiang raise questions about current sourcing practices |
It maybe noted that in 2021, Xinjiang accounted for 85 per cent of China's cotton production and nearly 25 per cent of global supply. However, following forced labor allegations, the China Cotton Association estimated an 8 per cent drop in Xinjiang's cotton production in 2023 and a 5 per cent reduction in planting areas. Tests reveal traces of Xinjiang cotton in nearly 20 per cent of apparel sold by major retailers globally, despite efforts to avoid it.
The issue of Xinjiang cotton continues to challenge global brands. Balancing ethical sourcing with maintaining market access in China requires a delicate approach. While regulations like the UFLPA aim to prevent the import of goods linked to forced labor, the complexity of global supply chains and the emergence of new methods to obfuscate the origin of materials highlight the need for ongoing vigilance and stricter enforcement. The question remains: can brands truly guarantee their products are free from Xinjiang cotton, and can consumers trust those claims?
The 2024 Cotton Day event in Dhaka was marked by a strong statement from Showkat Aziz Russell, President of the Bangladesh Textile Mills Association (BTMA). His concerns over the reliability of Indian cotton imports have reignited a long-simmering debate between the two South Asian neighbors.
"A big portion of cotton comes from India," Russell pointed out, "But we want to shy away from India. Because, whenever our demand increases...they increase the price unethically or holding the shipment without valid reasons." He further criticized the lack of organic certification for cotton purchased from India, despite assurances from sellers.
This isn't the first time Bangladesh has aired such grievances. As the world's second-largest apparel exporter, Bangladesh heavily relies on cotton imports to fuel its massive garment industry. India, with its proximity and competitive pricing, has been a dominant supplier. However, the relationship has been punctuated by accusations of price manipulation, unpredictable export policies, and quality concerns.
Table: Historical tensions and data
Year Indian cotton exports to Bangladesh (in bales) Major issues 2010-11 1.8 million India imposed a ban on cotton exports, causing price spikes and supply disruptions in Bangladesh. 2016-17 2.8 million Concerns over dependence on a single source; price volatility due to Indian export policy fluctuations. 2020-21 2.2 million Delays in shipments and phytosanitary certification issues reported. 2023-24 (Data pending) Allegations of price gouging during periods of high demand; organic certification discrepancies.
A Chequered past
There is a history of tensions around cotton imports from India to Bangladesh. In 2010, India abruptly banned cotton exports, citing domestic needs. This sent shockwaves through the Bangladeshi textile industry, causing massive disruptions and price increases. The ban was eventually lifted, but the episode left deep scars and fueled distrust among Bangladeshi manufacturers. Allegations of price rise during period of high demand, certification issues etc have long plagued cotton trade between the two neighbours.
Indian perspective
Indian authorities and exporters have traditionally defended their practices. They argue that price fluctuations are a natural consequence of market forces and that any export restrictions are implemented to ensure domestic supply stability. They also point to efforts to improve trade relations, such as simplifying customs procedures and enhancing infrastructure at border points. As a a representative of the Cotton Association of India points out, "Indian exporters operate in a free market. Prices are determined by supply and demand. We are committed to fulfilling our export obligations."
However, the fact is the concerns raised by BTMA's president highlight the need for greater transparency and stability in the India-Bangladesh cotton trade. While geographical proximity and economic factors favor continued trade, both sides must address the underlying trust deficit. Meanwhile, Bangladesh is actively seeking to diversify its cotton import sources, exploring options in Africa and other regions. And calls for stronger bilateral agreements and dispute resolution mechanisms are growing louder. The future of this crucial trade partnership hinges on the willingness of both nations to forge a more equitable and reliable relationship.
The Saudi Retail Forum (SRF) 2024, held on December 10 at the JW Marriott Hotel Riyadh, gathered retail leaders and innovators to explore transformative strategies for the Saudi Arabian and MENA retail sector.
Apparel Group stood out at the event, clinching seven prestigious awards at the RetailME Awards 2024. These accolades highlight the company’s unwavering commitment to sustainability, technological advancement, and impactful brand campaigns, solidifying its leadership in the global retail industry.
The group earned the Responsible Retailer of the Year and Tech Adaptor of the Year awards in the corporate category, reflecting its focus on sustainable practices and innovation. Its brand Athletes Co was recognized as Retailer of the Year, while Rituals secured the Brand Campaign of the Year in Beauty award. Additionally, Dune London and Allo Beirut won Brand Campaign of the Year awards, further demonstrating Apparel Group’s excellence in impactful marketing.
Aligned with Vision 2023, SRF 2024 emphasized empowering local retailers and integrating global strategies to drive retail transformation in Saudi Arabia.
Among the keynote speakers were Neeraj Teckchandani, CEO of Apparel Group, and Hesham Almekkawi, CEO of Tim Hortons- Middle East. Teckchandani highlighted the company’s innovative initiatives, stating, “At Apparel Group, we believe in the power of collaboration and innovation to drive growth and transformation in the retail sector. SRF 2024 was a vital platform for exchanging an innovative ideas and shaping the future of retail.”
The Saudi Retail Forum continues to serve as a dynamic hub for sharing insights, addressing challenges, and fostering innovation, positioning itself as a cornerstone in the evolution of the region’s retail industry.
