A recent study on French consumer habits in the fashion industry throws up a concerning picture, suggesting that the allure of ultra-fast fashion and fast fashion is leading consumers to spend more, acquire an excessive number of items, and even compromise on health and quality, often without realizing the true extent of their consumption. The study highlights prêt-à-porter (ready-to-wear) as the more economical and sustainable choice, despite prevalent misconceptions.

The true cost of ‘cheap’ fashion

The report indicates a disparity in annual clothing budgets among different consumer groups. While prêt-à-porter consumers spend an average of €330 annually, those opting for fast fashion and ultra-fast fashion spend considerably more, at €442 and €446 respectively. Consumers of an unspecified category (likely a blend or other fashion type) spend €613, and another unspecified group (possibly higher-end fast fashion or a hybrid) spends €688. The highest annual expenditure of €810 is observed in a category not explicitly defined but distinct from the others presented.

Table: Annual clothing budget spent of French consumers

Data represents annual clothing budget spent by French consumers for themselves and their children, according to their consumption mode.

Contrary to the marketing claims of companies like Shein, ultra-fast fashion is not the economic ‘eldorado’ it purports to be for the most budget-conscious consumers. In fact, consumers of fast fashion allocate an apparel budget twice as large as those who buy prêt-à-porter, for both themselves and their children. Prêt-à-porter is presented as a more responsible, higher quality, durable, and economical investment, making it a more virtuous choice for modest consumers.

The illusion of consumption, underestimation and regret

One of the most striking findings is the profound disconnect between perceived and actual consumption in the ultra-fast fashion segment. Consumers of ultra-fast fashion significantly underestimate their real consumption by half (-2.1 per cent), declaring 97 pieces when approximately 200 pieces are found. This phenomenon is attributed to "malicious strategies" employed by ultra-fast fashion brands that "extinguish consumers' awareness," manipulating them into "automatic mode" purchasing. Despite this, 35 per cent of Shein's customers in France acknowledge that the quantity of items in their wardrobes has increased annually since they started purchasing from the Chinese brand.

The study also reveals a high degree of buyer's remorse among ultra-fast fashion consumers. Nearly half (48 per cent) regret their purchases after having bought clothes on an ultra-express fashion platform. This regret is often due to the "disposable fashion" nature of these items, which saturate wardrobes with unused clothing because of their disappointing quality, shoddy finishes, and perishable style. In contrast, the immediate product experience offered in physical boutiques is identified as a competitive advantage for prêt-à-porter.

Health risks and social media influence

Beyond the financial and psychological impacts, the report raises serious concerns about health, especially regarding children's clothing. Among French consumers who purchase clothes for their children monthly, almost half (44 per cent) consume fast fashion. These fast and cheap garments are often made from petrochemical-derived materials, including artificial and synthetic fabrics containing toxic products sometimes banned in France yet come into direct contact with children's skin. The study emphasizes that in addition to environmental and social issues, fast and ultra-fast fashion pose real health risks.

The pervasive influence of fast fashion brands through social media also plays a significant role in consumer behavior. Approximately 30 per cent of French individuals are subscribed to a fast fashion brand on social media. This makes them a "captive target of aggressive over-communication," constantly incentivized to over-consume. Consumers' discernment is weakened by frenetic marketing and influencer strategies, trapping them with "pseudo-promotions" and an incessant flow of new arrivals.

The findings suggest a critical need for increased consumer awareness and education regarding the true costs both financial and otherwise associated with fast and ultra-fast fashion. Promoting the benefits of prêt-à-porter, including its economic advantages and superior quality, could be key to shifting consumer habits towards more sustainable and healthier choices.