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The 63rd edition of the international yarn and fiber exhibition, Filo will launch the Filo Capsule Collection. Translating the creative themes of ‘Collages’ from Filo’s Dialoghi Creativi into tangible fabric prototypes, this exclusive collection will showcase the seamless connection between stylistic innovation and production.
Curated by Rossano Bisio, Renowned Fabric Designer, the Capsule Collection embodies the essence of Italian textile craftsmanship. Created using yarns supplied by Filo exhibitors, the collection transforms the product development proposals from Gianni Bologna, Head - Style and Creativity, Filo into fabrics that honor Italy’s rich manufacturing tradition. The collection aims to bring Filo’s product development proposals to life, moving beyond descriptive or multimedia presentations to create a real collection of fabrics, explains Bisio.
To be held from February 26-27, 2025, at Allianz MiCo, Viale Eginardo Gate 3, Milan, the Filo exhibition this year will highlight the newly designed Dialoghi Creativi Area focusing on product research, development, and the transformation process. The area will give visitors a firsthand look at the Filo Capsule Collection, and allow them to gain insights into the synergy between design and production.
Paolo Monfermoso, Manager, Filo, emphasizes, the Filo Capsule Collection aims to reverse the trend of undermining technical skills by offering a tangible tool to stimulate creativity and innovation. It not only highlights the innovative spirit of the event but also serves as a beacon for creativity and sustainability in the textile industry, he adds.
The 63rd edition of Filo promises to be a landmark moment for the textile industry, blending tradition and innovation in an unprecedented way.
Fortude has entered into a strategic partnership with leading supply chain traceability platform Ettos to help fashion businesses improve transparency and give customers deeper insights into their production methods. This collaboration will enable fashion brands to streamline operations and strengthe supply chain transparency by combining traceability, compliance, and Digital Product Passports (DPPs) into an integrated solution.
Simplifying the tracking of raw materials and verifying sustainability claims, the Ettos’ platform features a B2B web platform for managing traceability and compliance, as well as a B2C web app that delivers DPPs to consumers via QR codes. Through this partnership, Fortude and Ettos aim to enhance their services in the fashion industry, supporting clients from sourcing raw materials to delivering finished products.
Adriana Batty, Co-founder, Ettos, states, Fortude’s expertise in digital solutions and strong foundation in the fashion industry align with Ettos’ vision to create a more transparent global supply chain. Together, the two firms aim to enpower brands and consumers with reliable sustainability insights.”
Daniel Rodrigo, Senior Vice President -Global Technical Consulting, Fortude, adds, this partnership with Ettos underscores the company’s commitment to deliver impactful digital solutions. As a long-time info partner, Fortude has provided ERP solutions to numerous global fashion brands. Expanding its focus on digital transformation, this collaboration will help fashion brands achieve greater transparency and compliance.
Representing a major milestone in addressing the fashion industry's growing demand for sustainability and traceability, this partnership helps Fortude and Ettos guide other brands through complex supply chain challenges, fostering a more sustainable and transparent future for the fashion industry.
Customer satisfaction is the cornerstone of the 19-year partnership between Trutzschler and Hascevher Tekstil in Turkiye. Founded in 2006, Hascevher has grown into a major player in the textile industry, employing over 500 people and generating annual sales exceeding $100 million. Known for embracing cutting-edge technologies, Hascevher has relied on Trutzschler's advanced machinery and service support throughout its journey.
The company operates two factories, producing 100 per cent cotton yarn for knitwear and weaving. Its Kahramanmaraş facility, equipped with 8,616 rotor spindles, produces 15,000 tons annually in the Ne 6 to Ne 40 range.
In February 2024, Hascevher expanded with a €50 million investment in a new Nigde facility to manufacture ring compact yarn (Ne 20 to Ne 60), also with a 15,000-ton annual capacity. Across both sites, over 100 Trutzschler machines, including TC 19i cards and TCO 21 combers, ensure high-quality production.
Looking ahead, Hascevher plans a third factory in Nigde, aiming for a daily production capacity of 90 tons. "Trutzschler's innovative machines and exceptional after-sales service are integral to our success," says General Manager Buket Çelebi.
Sustainability is a shared focus for both companies. They are collaborating to adopt sustainable raw materials, reduce emissions, and conserve energy and water. “In a competitive global market, Trutzschler’s technologies help us enhance efficiency, productivity, and sustainability,” Çelebi notes. This enduring partnership continues to shape a bright future for both Hascevher and its customers.
Surpassing the US, Brazil leads global cotton exports in 2024. CEPEA report reveals booming production, stable prices, and record acreage trends during the year.
In 2024, Brazil surpassed the United States as the world’s leading cotton exporter as its production increased for the third time in row, while US production as per a report by the Centre for Advanced Studies on Applied Economics (CEPEA).
Driven by strong profitability, advanced technologies, and premium-quality production, Brazil’s cotton cultivation continues to expand yearly. While its domestic demand grows modestly, rising international prices absorb the surplus, helping maintain stable cotton prices in the local market, as per the CEPEA report.
According to the CEPEA/ESAKQ cotton index in Brazil, cotton prices in 2024 ranged narrowly between BRL 3.8063($0.62) and BRL 4.3646 ($0.71) per pound. However, average cotton prices in the country continue to remain 2023 levels throughout most of the year.
In the 2023-24 season, planted cotton acreage in the country increased by 16.9 per cent to 1.944 million hectare—the highest since 1991-92. On the other hand, productivity dipped by 0.18 per cent with production rising by 16.64 per cent to 3.7 million tons. These milestones consolidate Brazil's position as a dominant force in the global cotton market.
While the desire for exclusivity and craftsmanship remains strong among luxury buyers, there is a clear bifurcation between high-end and affordable luxury. This shift is due to evolving consumer demographics, economic pressures, and changing perceptions of value.
A tale of two markets
At the top, high-end luxury brands like Hermès, Chanel, and LVMH are experiencing record growth. These brands cater to an ultra-wealthy clientele seemingly immune to economic headwinds. Their focus remains on heritage, exclusivity, and artisanal craftsmanship, often with price tags reflecting this rarified positioning. Conversely, the accessible luxury segment, with brands like Michael Kors, Coach, and Kate Spade, faces a more challenging landscape. These brands, once symbols of aspirational luxury, are grappling with rising costs, increased competition, and a more discerning consumer.
Table: High end vs affordable luxury
|
Segment |
Q2 2024 revenue growth (YoY) |
Key trends |
|
High-End Luxury (LVMH) |
17% |
Strong demand in China and the US, price increases, focus on exclusive experiences |
|
Affordable Luxury (Capri Holdings) |
-10.50% |
Inflationary pressures, discounting, declining mall traffic |
(Source: LVMH Q2 2024 Report, Capri Holdings Q2 2024 Report)
This contrasting in performance highlights the growing gap. While high-end luxury thrives on scarcity and exclusivity, accessible luxury brands are struggling to maintain margins and brand cachet in a crowded market. For example, Hermès’ iconic Birkin bag, with its waiting lists and astronomical prices, epitomizes high-end luxury's enduring appeal. Hermès's strategic focus on limited production and handcrafted quality reinforces its exclusivity and desirability. On the other hand, Michael Kors, once a high-flying accessible luxury brand, has faced challenges in recent years due to overexposure and heavy discounting. This has diluted the brand's perceived luxury and impacted profitability.
What’s driving the divide
One major reason for this divide is the growing wealth gap globally that fuels demand for high-end luxury goods, seen as both status symbols and investment assets. Moreover, consumer values too are changing, as younger buyers are increasingly prioritizing experiences and sustainability over material possessions, putting pressure on traditional luxury brands to adapt. The rise of ‘Quiet Luxury’ as a trend which highlights understated elegance and discreet branding, too favors high-end brands known for their subtle craftsmanship. In fact, the gap between high-end and affordable luxury is likely to persist. High-end brands will continue to cater to the ultra-wealthy, focusing on personalized experiences and bespoke offerings. Accessible luxury brands will need to innovate and differentiate themselves through unique designs, compelling narratives, and a strong focus on value.
This trend also has broader implications for the retail landscape. Department stores, once the bastion of luxury brands, are struggling to attract shoppers. Meanwhile, online luxury platforms and direct-to-consumer models are gaining traction, offering new avenues for both high-end and affordable brands to reach their target audiences.
Thus understanding the distinct dynamics of high-end and affordable luxury is crucial for brands, retailers, and investors alike. As consumer preferences and economic forces continue to shape the industry, the ability to adapt and innovate will be key to success in this increasingly polarized market.
Italy, renowned for its exquisite fashion, design, and textile machinery, is setting its sights on India, a land rich in cotton and textile traditions. With a shared history intertwined with the ancient Silk Route, these two nations are now embarking on a new journey – the ‘Cotton Route’ – to unlock the immense potential of their partnership in the fashion, apparel, and textile sectors. The 'Cotton Route' initiative will further strengthen the historical ties between India and Italy and unlock the immense potential of our partnership in the textile sector," opines Piyush Goyal, Union Minister of Commerce and Industry.
Budding partnership
The Silk Route, an ancient network of trade routes, connected Europe and Asia for centuries, with both Italy and India playing an important role. This shared history has laid the groundwork for a strong relationship built on cultural exchange and commercial cooperation. What’s more both countries have complementary strengths. Italy excels in design, technology, and branding, while India boasts a vast pool of skilled labor, abundant raw materials, and a thriving domestic market. This creates a fertile ground for collaboration and mutual growth. Add to it the recent visit of Adolfo Urso, the Italian Minister for Business and 'Made in Italy', to India underscores the commitment of both nations to strengthen their economic ties. The 'Cotton Route' initiative, announced during the visit, aims to boost trade and investment in the textile sector. "Italy can become a production hub for Indian access to Europe, vice versa India can become a production hub for Italian companies' entry into its domestic and Asian markets," says Adolfo Urso, Italian Minister for Business and 'Made in Italy'.
In fact, Italian brands are already well established in India. For example. Benetton, the Italian fashion brand, has a strong presence in India with over 800 stores. The company sources a significant portion of its raw materials from India and has established manufacturing facilities in the country.
The potential areas of growth are numerous. First there is a lot of scope for joint ventures in manufacturing. The Italian Trade Agency (ITA) has been actively promoting collaboration between Italian and Indian companies in the textile sector. ITA has organized several trade fairs and B2B meetings to facilitate partnerships and joint ventures. Indeed, combining Italian design expertise with India's manufacturing capabilities can lead to the creation of high-quality apparel and textiles for both domestic and international markets.
Then there is the whole aspect of technology transfer and skill development. Italian companies can share their advanced technology and know-how with Indian partners, fostering innovation and upgrading skills in the Indian textile industry. Both countries can also collaborate on promoting sustainable practices in the fashion industry, such as using organic cotton, reducing waste, and ensuring fair labor standards. And Italian brands can leverage India's growing middle class and its vibrant fashion scene to expand their market reach.
Table: Data highlights India-Italy
|
Indicator |
Italy |
India |
|
Textile and apparel exports (2021) |
$55.7 billion |
$44.4 billion |
|
Global market share in textiles and apparel (2021) |
3.80% |
4.20% |
|
Growth rate of textile and apparel industry (2022-2027, projected) |
3.50% |
8.10% |
The moot point is that the partnership between Italy and India in the fashion, apparel, and textile sectors holds immense promise. By leveraging their complementary strengths and fostering collaboration, these two nations can create a vibrant and sustainable ecosystem that benefits both economies and contributes to the growth of the global fashion industry. The 'Cotton Route' initiative is a testament to their shared vision and commitment to weaving a future together, thread by thread.
Kraig Biocraft Laboratories a leader in spider silk-based fibers, has achieved a major milestone by creating a new transgenic silkworm inspired by the Darwin’s bark spider (Caerostris darwini).
This advancement marks a leap forward in the production of high-performance recombinant spider silk, which is known to be over 10 times tougher than traditional para-aramid fibers used in bulletproof vests and other high-strength applications.
By incorporating the genetic elements of Darwin's bark spider silk into its proprietary silkworms, Kraig Labs has developed a scalable system for producing this incredibly tough material.
The new transgenic combines the strength and elasticity of the spider silk with the efficiency of traditional silkworm silk production, enabling the company to pursue commercial-scale production.
Kim Thompson, Founder and CEO, emphasized that this breakthrough showcases Kraig Labs commitment to advancing material science by leveraging nature's best designs. COO Jon Rice expressed optimism for 2025, highlighting ongoing advancements and the company's growing production capacity.
This innovation strengthens Kraig Labs position as a leader in sustainable spider silk-based super materials with vast applications across textiles, defense, medical, and industrial sectors.
Pili, Orta, and Citizens of Humanity debut biobased indigo denim, advancing sustainable fashion with innovative, eco-friendly dyeing solutions.
A French innovator in biobased dyes and pigments, Pili has entered into a groundbreaking partnership with Turkish denim mill Orta and California-based premium denim brand Citizens of Humanity for the commercial debut of garments dyed with Pili’s biobased indigo. The first of these garment pieces will be launched in January 2025 as part of the Spring 2025 collections from Citizens of Humanity and AGOLDE.
Pili produced its first tons of bio-based indigo dye in 2024. This achievement enabled the company to create tens of thousands of sustainable denim items and marks a critical step in its mission to decarbonize the denim industry.
Combining fermentation and organic chemistry, Pili’s innovative dyeing process offers a sustainable, high-performance alternative to petrochemical dyes. This approach dramatically reduces the need for toxic chemicals and fossil-based resources, with the potential to lower CO2 emissions by up to 50 per cent. Pili’s color production follows standardized Life Cycle Assessments (LCAs) to rigorously measure and minimize environmental impact.
Pili’s biobased indigo performs on par with traditional petrochemical indigo and seamlessly integrates into existing dyeing processes without requiring additional investment in equipment. This innovation addresses the growing demand for sustainability, traceability, and decarbonization, says Jérémie Blache, CEO, Pili.
The partnership incorporates regenerative cotton and biobased indigo, creating one of the industry’s most sustainable products. This collaboration represents a pivotal step towards a more regenerative future, states Amy Williams, CEO, Citizens of Humanity Group.
Looking ahead, Pili plans to extend its bio-based pigment innovations into inks, paints, and polymers, accelerating efforts to decarbonize the color industry and revolutionize everyday products sustainably.
Laura Weir appointed BFC CEO, succeeding Caroline Rush, to drive British fashion growth, sustainability, and global influence.
The British Fashion Council (BFC) has appointed Laura Weir as its new Chief Executive Officer, effective April 28, succeeding Caroline Rush. Currently serving as the Executive Creative Director at Selfridges, Weir has extensive experience in fashion and media, including previous roles at ES Magazine, Elle UK, and Drapers.
Commending West’s strategic vision and her comprehensive understanding of the industry’s complexities, David Pemsel, Chairperson, BFC, emphasized on her ability to drive transformative initiatives that will shape the BFC’s future both in the UK and internationally.
Assuming the position at a critical time for British fashion, Weir says, she looks forward to working with the BFC team to champion culture and creativity, driving growth for British fashion on both a national and global scale. In her new role, plans to prioritize supporting emerging and established designers, strengthening the pipeline of British creative talent, and increasing the industry’s global influence.
Weir also emphasized on her commitment to tackle pressing issues like environmental sustainability, representation, and inclusion while fostering partnerships with both industry leaders and government bodies. Under her leadership, BFC will continue to focus on responsible growth through community engagement, innovation via the Institute of Positive Fashion, and global promotion through marquee events like London Fashion Week and the Fashion Awards.
Her appointment follows Caroline Rush’s remarkable 15-year tenure, during which she transformed the BFC into a strong and profitable organization. Rush successfully navigated significant challenges, including Brexit and the pandemic, helping the BFC achieve a turnover exceeding £12 million in the last fiscal year.
Reaffirming the Indian government’s commitment to expand its current textile market, Giriraj Singh, Union Minister of Textiles, affirms, the country will work towards increasing the industry’s market size to $300 billion by 2030. Additionally, it will also employ 60 million people in the textile value chain, he announced while inaugurating the new permanent campus of the Indian Institute of Handloom Technology in Fulia, Nadia, West Bengal.
Spanning 5.38 acre, the state-of-the-art campus has been constructed with an investment of 75.95 crores. It is equipped with all modern infrastructural facilities including smart classrooms, a digital library and advanced testing laboratories. The campus aims to serve as a model learning center and a Center of Excellence in handloom and textile technology, catering to students from West Bengal, Bihar, Jharkhand, and Sikkim.
Emphasizing on the government’s vision to expand India’s textile market to $300 billion, Singh highlights 11.56 per cent Y-o-Y growth in textile exports in October 2024. During the month, India’s apparel exports also increased by 35.06 per cent Y-o-Y to $1.23 billion, he adds. Meanwhile cumulative textile and apparel exports increased by 19.93 per cent in October 2024 compared to October 2023.
From Apr-Oct 2024, India’s textiles exports grew by 4.01 per cent compared to the same period in the previous year, while apparel exports registered an 11.60 per cent growth. Government’s investment promotion agency, Invest India predicts, India’s total textile exports will reach $65 billion by FY26.
Minister Singh expressed optimism, citing Prime Minister Narendra Modi’s leadership as a driving force behind the industry’s success, with continued growth in exports and technological advancements positioning India as a global leader in textiles.
