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Kraig Biocraft Laboratories, has achieved a major breakthrough in its genetic research, doubling the complexity and size of its spider silk gene insert package. This advancement is expected to enhance material performance, driving next-generation spider silk development.

By expanding the gene insert package, Kraig Labs aims to create stronger, more elastic, and more durable silk fibers. These improvements are critical for high-performance applications in defense, medical, and technical textile industries.

"Larger and more complex gene inserts could unlock superior material characteristics," said Kim Thompson, CEO of Kraig Labs. "This breakthrough strengthens our leadership in biomaterials innovation."

While pushing the boundaries in the lab, Kraig Labs is also advancing commercial production. The company remains on track to deliver commercial quantities of spider silk this year, targeting multiple market applications.

"Our team is balancing innovation and production to meet growing demand," said COO Jon Rice. "This will be a pivotal year for industry integration of spider silk."

With a dual focus on research and commercialization, Kraig Labs is positioning itself as a global leader in bioengineered spider silk. The company continues to drive innovation, aiming to transform the future of high-performance materials.

 

eVent Fabrics has launched stormburstLT, its latest ultralight, highly breathable waterproof laminate, designed for aerobic outdoor activities. This new addition enhances eVent’s portfolio, joining alpineST for extreme conditions, stormST for outdoor and lifestyle wear, and windstormST for windproof softshell applications.

stormburstLT features a 5-micron PFAS-free membrane with exceptional moisture vapor transport, ensuring top-tier breathability and comfort. Available with lightweight woven or knitted face fabrics, it is built for high-performance use in running, cycling, Nordic skiing, hiking, and skiing, as well as insulated jackets.

“With a focus on aerobic activities, stormburstLT fills a critical category gap,” said Chad Kelly, President of eVent Fabrics. “We developed it to meet the needs of our brand partners, offering a versatile, breathable, and windproof solution for fast-and-light pursuits.”

Lightweight, packable, and adaptable, stormburstLT is also perfect for adventure travel and activewear. eVent Fabrics will showcase stormburstLT at Performance Days Munich on March 5-6 at Booth Q12, inviting designers and product developers to explore its versatility and discuss applications for their next product innovations.

 

Italy’s textile and clothing industry is working on a strategic plan to drive innovation, sustainability, and competitiveness in the face of global challenges. Confindustria Moda, along with national trade unions Femca-Cisl, Filctem-Cgil, and Uiltec-Uil, is engaging in dialogue to develop an industrial policy proposal for the Italian Government and the European Commission. Their focus includes sustainability, circularity, training, and financial support to strengthen the industry.

The Italian textile and clothing sector remains Europe’s largest value chain, supplying global markets with high-quality products that blend creativity and craftsmanship. With around 40,000 companies (60,000 including other fashion sectors) and 400,000 direct employees, the industry generates €64 billion in annual turnover, largely driven by exports. However, maintaining this position requires continuous investment in product and process innovation, particularly in a rapidly changing post-pandemic world. Rising geopolitical uncertainties, technological disruptions, and competition from low-cost markets add to the sector’s challenges.

A significant transformation is underway as the industry moves towards greener, more circular business models. The EU Green Deal aims to ensure that by 2030, textiles on the European market are durable, reusable, repairable, and recyclable. This shift demands substantial adjustments from companies and workers alike. The sector is a major contributor to pollution, with high CO2 emissions, water consumption, and chemical use. Adapting to EU sustainability goals while remaining competitive is a key priority for Italian industry leaders and trade unions.

The "Stitch Together" project, supported by the EU, is fostering long-term cooperation to enhance industrial development and social progress. It aims to strengthen employer and worker associations, develop skills, and promote social dialogue and collective bargaining across the supply chain.

At a national seminar in Rome on February 19-20, 2025, key stakeholders agreed on several commitments. These include ensuring a socially just green and digital transition, defining priority proposals for industrial policy, and collaborating with institutions to attract and train young talent while upskilling existing workers. The EU TCLF Pact for Skills will play a crucial role in workforce development.

Additionally, industry leaders and unions pledged to uphold legality and decent work across the supply chain, adhering to European regulations on responsible trade and due diligence. They urged the Italian Government and the EU to support the industry’s transformation through financial and managerial assistance. Strengthening European-level social dialogue is seen as essential for a smooth transition.

The Italian textile industry is at a pivotal moment. While its global reputation for excellence remains strong, adapting to sustainability and digitalization will determine its future success.

 

Five Years On Brexits lingering shadow on UK retail online marketplace a lifeline

 

Five years have passed since the UK left the European Union, and the impact on its retail sector continues to be felt. New data by Retail Economics and Tradebyte reveals almost £5.9 billion drop in British retail sales to the EU since Brexit. This anniversary serves as a stark reminder of the challenges faced by UK businesses and the evolving strategies they are adopting to survive and thrive.

Dip in British exports, retail sales

The ‘From Brexit to Breakthrough - Market Expansion for UK Brands’ report, initially published in June 2024, reveals a concerning picture. Clothing exports have been decimated, falling over 60 per cent from £7.4 billion in 2019 to just £2.7 billion in 2023. This decline underscores the sector's vulnerability to post-Brexit trade barriers. The composition of UK exports has also shifted significantly. Apparel, once a leading export, has been overtaken by health and beauty, electrical, and DIY and gardening products, which now constitute three-quarters of UK non-food retail exports to the EU. Even these sectors have not been immune to the downturn, with the overall value of non-food retail exports falling nearly 18 per cent since 2019, despite the mitigating effect of inflation.

Trade frictions a bane

Beyond the headline figures, the report highlights the significant role of Brexit-related trade frictions. Increased logistics costs, complex customs procedures, and regulatory hurdles are hindering international online retail opportunities for UK brands. These complexities are estimated to be costing EU economies a staggering £322.6 billion. The added bureaucracy and expense have made it significantly more difficult for UK businesses to compete in the lucrative European e-commerce market.

UK brands take the online route

However, amidst these challenges, a new avenue for growth has emerged: online marketplaces. These platforms have become a vital lifeline for UK brands seeking to regain lost ground in the European market. With online marketplaces now accounting for at least £133 billion (two-fifths) of EU e-commerce, they offer a significant opportunity for UK retailers to access a vast customer base.

“Five years after Brexit, UK retailers are still navigating its long-term effects, particularly when it comes to trading with EU consumers,” says Richard Lim, CEO, Retail Economics. “Many have experienced a significant drop in trade flows, making it harder to maintain connections with key European markets.” Lim emphasizes the crucial role of digital marketplaces in mitigating these challenges. “For brands looking to expand internationally, digital marketplaces have become an essential lifeline, providing a practical route to reach global audiences while overcoming complex trade barriers. By embracing these platforms, retailers can mitigate some of the challenges posed by Brexit and refocus on growth opportunities in an increasingly competitive global market.”

Alexander Otto, Head of Corporate Relations at Tradebyte agrees and says, “Brexit has transformed the UK retail landscape, creating significant obstacles for UK brands and retailers aiming to expand in Europe, and making it far harder for them to tap into the flourishing EU e-commerce market. Online marketplaces now represent a platform for innovation and a scalable, low-risk path to reach affluent and younger EU consumers across a range of markets. They have emerged as crucial platforms to offset the challenges of Brexit and offer vital growth drivers in a competitive global market.”

The data clearly indicates while Brexit has undoubtedly created significant headwinds for UK retailers, particularly those reliant on EU trade, online marketplaces offer a potential pathway to recovery and growth. The shift towards digital platforms is a strategic adaptation in the post-Brexit scenario, allowing businesses to navigate complex trade barriers and tap into the vast potential of the European e-commerce market. The next five years will be crucial in determining whether this strategy can fully offset the negative impacts of Brexit and pave the way for a more resilient and globally competitive UK retail sector.

 

Gucci showcased its first collection at the Milan Fashion Week since the departure of its Creative Director, Sabato De Sarno.

Presented at Superstudio Maxi, the fashion show to showcase the collection was accompanied by an original soundtrack from Oscar-winning composer Justin Hurwitz of ‘La La Land’ fame. Hurwitz conducted a live chamber orchestra for a front row that included François-Henri Pinault, CEO, Kering alongside celebrities like Julia Garner, Jessica Chastain, and Dev Patel.

Designed by Gucci's in-house team, the collection offered a blend of past and present, featuring nods to various decades. Highlights included '60s-inspired fur coats and mohair peacoats, knee-length skirts with side slits, tailored tunics, and Donegal tweed suits. '90s influences were also evident in slip dresses, oversized blazers, and bouclé mini dresses. Interlocking "G" print velvet dresses and semi-sheer skirts with velour leotards and gold stirrup pendants added a touch of glamour. The collection also featured new iterations of the 1955 horse-bit bag, emphasizing commercial appeal.

In contrast to the Alessandro Michele era, which often presented a more bohemian aesthetic, this collection exuded a refined elegance.

The menswear segment featured sharp tailoring, including double-breasted suits with elongated jackets and slim pants. Mohair cardigans were also prominent, though the repetition of similar coat designs in different materials raised questions.

The show concluded with the in-house design team taking a collective bow, all wearing Castleton green sweatshirts.

 

Zegna has launched its Winter 2025 collection, based on the concept of ‘Vellus Aureum,’ a tribute to the world's finest wool. The concept symbolizes the ongoing quest for excellence, evoking the legendary Golden Fleece of Greek mythology.

According to Alessandro Sartori, Artistic Director, the items in this collection are nonchalantly chosen and spontaneously mixed, recounting an encounter of generations in the name of Italian style. The collection features key garment pieces including deconstructed blazers with low, two-button closures, knee-length coats with cashfur collars, and blousons with lapels or stand-up collars and elasticated waists.

Sartori emphasizes knitwear as a central element of this collection, with deep v-necks revealing layered shirts. The color palette of this collection features fossile, ginepro, dark foliage, serra, castoro, Gattinara red, and falesia, with accents of Sessera, arnica, giglio montano, terracotta, and nero opaco.

Materials used to create this collection include wool cashmere, cashmere cotton corduroy, wool mohair cover, flannel wool, and Oasi Cashmere. The Il Conte jacket appears in shearling, as a gilet, and in Oasi Cashmere jersey.

 

Following the success of the apparel park in Pithampur, the Madhya Pradesh Government plans to set up a textile park under the PM Mitra scheme in the Malwa region. The park will be a key feature at the upcoming Global Investors Summit (GIS) 2025 in Bhopal.

Inspired by Prime Minister Narendra Modi's 5F vision, PM Mitra Parks are being developed at seven locations across India through special purpose vehicles (SPVs). These Greenfield textile parks will receive Central Government support of Rs 500 crore.

The Madhya Pradesh Government will showcase this park at the GIS, aiming to attract industries to establish operations. The park will provide comprehensive facilities, from design to dyeing, for investors. A dedicated textile expo will be organized at the GIS to attract investors in the textile sector, as per a government official.

Approved by the Government of India in March 2023, the park will be located in Bhensola village of Badnawar tehsil in Dhar district. It will be developed as per a memorandum of understanding (MoU) signed between the Ministry of Textiles and the Madhya Pradesh Government on May 21, 2023.

Madhya Pradesh is a significant producer of high-quality cotton, yielding 317,000 metric tons, which accounts for 24 per cent of the world’s non-GMO organic cotton and 47 per cent of India’s non-GMO organic cotton. Additionally, the state is the sole producer of extra-long staple (ELS) cotton in India.

In a high-level meeting last June, the Chief Minister emphasized the need to expedite the Rs 500 crore project approved by the Textile Ministry for the Integrated Textile and Apparel Park in Dhar district. He urged agencies to work swiftly to create 25,000 jobs through 21 units in the PM Mega Textile Park. The government has allocated Rs 4,445 crore for these parks up to 2027-28.

 

ITAMMA wins 8th FMC Award for Social Responsibility in Textiles

 

Indian Textile Accessories & Machinery Manufacturers Association (ITAMMA) has been honored with the 8th FMC Award for Responsible BMOs at the national level for its contributions to promoting social issues in the textiles and apparel sector.

N D Mhatre, Director General (Tech) of ITAMMA, received the award on February 17, 2025, at Bharat Mandapam, New Delhi. The award was presented by Prajakta L. Verma, IAS, Joint Secretary, and Roop Rashi Mahapatra (IA&AS), Textile Commissioner, Ministry of Textiles, Government of India.

ITAMMA wins 8th FMC Award for Social Responsibility in Textiles 1

The ceremony was attended by several key industry leaders, including Mukesh Gulati, Executive Director of the Foundation for MSME Clusters, Rakesh Mehra, Chairman of CITI, and Chandrima Chatterjee, Secretary General of CITI.

A total of 135 applications were reviewed across different categories, with only 16 organizations shortlisted for awards. ITAMMA’s recognition highlights its significant contributions to India’s textile machinery sector and its role in driving innovation and excellence.

The award ceremony celebrated outstanding contributions to the textile and MSME sectors, honoring organizations that have made a meaningful impact. ITAMMA’s achievement further reinforces its leadership in advancing India’s textile industry.

 

Designers’ commitment to creating ethical styles is driving the popularity of vegan fashion in both India and Japan. In India, designers like Anita Dongre are creating their entire collections from vegan materials, proving that luxury and sustainability can coexist. On the other hand, Japanese brands like Saisei are repurposing vintage kimonos into modern, chic vegan garments, merging tradition with innovation.

Artisans in both the countries are blending traditional textiles like khadi and Tencel with contemporary designs. These eco-friendly fabrics are helping revitalize heritage by transforming historical materials into sustainable apparel.

A significant development in vegan fashion is the rise of plant-based leathers with Indian startups experimenting with materials derived from flowers and fruits, such as pineapple leather (Piñatex). On the other hand, Japanese designers have created durable alternatives from mushroom mycelium. These materials not only replicate the texture and strength of conventional leather but also provide a sustainable option for environmentally conscious consumers.

The growing popularity of vegan fashion is primarily fueled by increasing consumer awareness of animal welfare and environmental concerns. In both India and Japan, social media campaigns and educational initiatives have played a crucial role in promoting the benefits of cruelty-free choices. As more consumers prioritize sustainability, retailers in these countries are expanding their vegan product offerings.

Collaborations between Indian and Japanese designers and international brands are elevating vegan fashion on a global scale. These partnerships introduce fresh perspectives and facilitate cross-border knowledge sharing on sustainable practices. By working together, these creative minds are pushing the boundaries of eco-conscious apparel design.

 

Nike is set to launch a new brand, ‘NikeSkims,’ in collaboration with the Kim Kardashian-owned label, Skims. Focusing on women's training apparel, footwear, and accessories, this brand will boost Nike's ‘gender offense,’ as stated by Elliot Hill, CEO, and position NikeSkims alongside established brands like Jordan, Nike, and Converse.

This new venture follows Nike's historic partnership with Michael Jordan in 1984, which began with a $500,000 annual contract plus royalties. The subsequent launch of Air Jordans, starting with the Air Jordan 1 in 1985, led to the Jordan brand generating approximately $6.9 billion in wholesale equivalent revenue for the FY2023-24, representing about 17 per cent of Nike's total sales.

Nike is now leveraging Kardashian's global influence and over 350 million Instagram followers to replicate this success. Co-founded by Kardashian in 2019 as a shapewear brand, Skims has since expanded into loungewear and is now valued at $4 billion.

NikeSkims is slated for a spring launch, with global expansion planned for 2026. Skims' proven consumer appeal was demonstrated by its collaboration with The North Face, which sold out within hours of its launch on December 10, 2024.

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