Trends coming from cities New York, Milan, Paris and Tokyo , considered the fashion capitals of the major export markets for international garment trade, are studied by Directions Trend Committee, selected by Messe Frankfurt (HK)every season. The committee members combine their expertise and local in?uences to come up with the themes that tell the story of tomorrow’s apparel fabric trends. The trend committee consists of Donger Creative Services, USA, Nelly Roddy Agency, France, Elementa RModa, Italy and Sachiko Inoue, Japan. The trend direction for Autumn Winter 2018/19 are divided into major themes as Origins, Humanity, Hygge and Subversive

1 Origins

Wild Nature. Raw. Primitive

2 Hygge

Cosy. Well Being. Sensual

3 Subversive

Cultural Mixes. Contrasts. Powerful

Humanity

AW 2018 / 1 9

Human connection, invention and instinct are the common threads explored within each trend, and reflect the spirit of the time. We are moving into a society that craves a human presence and the desire to focus on essential values due to the advancement of technology. We are creating a respectful relationship with the planet and its people, promoting a more harmonious lifestyle where the world’s traditions are acknowledged.

Origins

Wild Nature .Raw . Primitive

There is a new appreciation for the simple things in life, urging us to go back to the land and reconnect with our ancestral instincts. The soul of a handmade object is celebrated. Responsive design emerges from forward- thinking craftsmanship, intertwining technology with primitive and raw materials. From the deep woods to the open prairie, the outdoor landscape is a world without borders, allowing for new inventions to emerge.

COLOURS

Woodland Darks Dusty Earth

Active Brights Accent

FABRICS

Rustic & Soft. Technical & Performance Enhancement.

Wild Fur: Fox. Wolf. Raccoon. Feather.

Tweed: Dishevelled. Rough yet soft. Homespun.

Felt: Coarse. Compact. Protective ?nishing.

Weatherproofed.

Canvas: Coarse. Slubbed. Ondé yarn.

Jacquard: Random pattern. Needle punch. Organic texture.

Knits: Shaggy. Bouclé and hair. Fur-like. Multiple yarn mixes.

Fleece: Woollen. Knit backed. Felted. Mélange.

Yarn-Dye: Blurred plaids. Washout and worn. Relief structure.

Corduroy: Double faced. Washed. Printed. Denim: Raw. Linen blended. Crosshatch. Twill: Pigment-dyed. PFD.

Performance: Protection. Sporting and active minded.

PRINTS

P ri m i t i v e & O rg a n ic .

Nature-Inspired:

Tree and woodgrains. Wild ?owers and leaves.

Animals/Reptiles:

Bear. Fox. Rabbit. Bird. Skin and feather.

Hygge

In today’s fast-paced, modern lifestyle it’s important to have quality and a balance of comfort and well-being. We look to nature and the Renaissance for inspiration as we slow down, creating a relaxed formality in our home. Genderless colours and lofty fabrications are key for a soothing and sensual environment. Learning how to do practical things well and taking care of yourself becomes top priority.

COLOURS

Cosy Neutrals

Precious Pastels

Copper Accent

FABRICS

Sensual & Light. Simple & Decorative.

Plush: Hair. Cashmere. Melton. Felted. Flannel. AIRO ?nishing.

Tweed: Precious. Exaggerated weave. Metallic touches. Embroidered.

Suiting: Mélange. Mouliné. Tonal checks. Menswear plaids. Crepe: Grainy structure. Light and ?uid. Double and airy. Jacquard: Tone-on-tone. Matte and shine. Matelassé. Blurred. Cut threads.

Velvet/velour: Burnout. Printed. Powdery touch.

Satin: Silky. Burnout. Fluid.

Sheer: Shimmer organza. Chiffon. Creased gauzes. Knits: Chenille yarn. Heavy crochet. Ornate jacquard. Lurex touches.

Jersey: Silky surfaces. Polished shine. Pointelle.

Pile: Uncut and ?ne corduroy. Moleskin.

Technical: Hybrid basics. Synthetic blend. Performance.

PRINTS

I n t ri c a t e & C a l m .

Home-Inspired:

Wallpaper. Floral. Marble effect. Tiles. Flocked.

Photographic:

Painting. Sceneries. Inkjet.

mixes .Contrasts . Powerful

Subversive

Cultural mixes .Contrasts . Powerful

A textural kaleidoscope of the past and present create a mashup and powerful collage. As generations and cultures mix together, a strong and contrasting visual story emerges. Cultural prints with folkloric motifs and ?orals mix with the classics like vintage geometrics and multi- coloured stripes. With today’s interconnectivity we dive deeper into the roots of the world, resulting in a new form of art that combines craft and technology together.

COLOURS

Rich Deeps

Vibrant Brights

Contrast & Crashed

FABRICS

Opulence & Classic. Craft & Tech.

Fur: Fun. Multi-coloured. Wild Animal. Blanket: Hair. Oversized plaids. Double faced. Ornate printed. Tweed: Fancy and kitsch. Grandma rework.

Synthetic: Modern. Plastic. Pleather.

Jacquard: Rich brocade. Double faced. Folkloric ?oral.

Dynamic graphic.

Velvet/Velour: Printed. Burnout. Crushed. Embossed.

Shine: Satin, Taffeta. Metallic. Opalescent.

Knit: Jacquard. Raschel laces. Lurex. Cellophane. Jersey: Burnout. Coloured metallic. Eyelash. Spandex. Denim: Worked. Jacquard. Printed.

PRINTS

N e o C l a s si c & R e m ix .

Classic: Antique wallpaper. Vintage geometric. Perspective plaid.

Cultural: Folkloric motifs. Floral. Mix collage. Art. Colourful stripe.

Amazon India has invested Rs. 260 crores (around $40M), in its online payments platform Amazon Pay. This was done using money from Amazon Corporate Holdings based in Singapore and from their parent Company Amazon (US).

Big ticket investment in mobile wallets coupled with stricter government regulations is therefore the current industry trend.

This pumping of funds follows their previous total investment of Rs. 350 crores (around $52.6M dollars). It is a big step up for Amazon India’s payments arm. This brings it in competition with Paytm and Flipkart’s PhonePe.

As per filings at the Registrar of Companies, the new funds will be used to expand the company’s business operations. The authorised capital for Amazon Pay was recently increased to Rs.2,000 crore (around $300.6 M) from 400 crore rupees (around $60.1M) revealing Amazon’s plans for their payments arm. Flipkart has also recently expanded their PhonePe services through huge investments.

The Reserve Bank of India recently issued new guidelines on the use of all mobile wallets which mandates companies to conduct Know Your Customer (KYC) checks, however, this could drive up costs for mobile wallet services — including Amazon Pay.

Sriram Jagannathan, Vice President of Amazon India, shares, “A concern is that even low usage wallets with limited merchant transaction functionality are required to be in compliance with KYC beyond 12 months. This adds friction to customers and costs to the issuer. In line with international guidelines a framework of proportional KYC could have been adopted.”

TCE Corporation, Vietnam’s biggest denim producer, celebrates the first year of its Eco Line installation achieving close fabric control and significant energy savings. Investment in the Eco Line enhanced output from 1.5 million yards a month to 3.5 million yards, the biggest production capacity in Vietnam.

The Monforts Eco Line was manufactured by Monforts in Germany and supplied via Peja Vietnam. It is engineered to save on water and energy use. Key issues with denim are consistency and shrinkage. The greatest benefit of this machine is that it permits finer control of shrinkage.

Starting operations in South Korea in 1956, TCE relocated its entire production to Vietnam in 2014. TCE was the world’s first denim producer to install a Monforts Eco Denim Line, and after a full year of production is now able to evaluate the advantages in terms of production and energy and water savings. The company is the largest producer of denim in Vietnam, and one of the largest in Asia. The Eco Line throughput is 1.5 million yards.

TCE exports 100 per cent of its production overseas with Europe, at about 45 per cent being the largest market, followed by the USA at 30 per cent, and Japan and Korea the other main export destinations.

Chief executive officer Stanley Hwang reports that their production ranges from lightweight to heavyweight denim, in the range of 4 to 14 ounces. “With the Monforts Eco Line, we can see exactly what is going on in the production line and it is very easy to operate. We have complete control of the shrinkage and we need one or two less staff to operate the machine.”

Production general manager Ku Myung Soo says that the fabric passes in one continuous run, through the Eco Applicator, then through the Thermex, and finally through the shrinkage process.

Canali a symbol of Italian male elegance, has for several years now been confronted by the crisis affecting men's formal wear, the heart of its business. It has lead to close a factory in Carate Brianza.

The historic brand, founded in 1934 in Brianza (to the north of Milan), has made its specialisation an asset a sole and unique label for men, entirely produced in Italy. However, now it's being penalised, much like many other super luxury men's brands such as Brioni, by a business model and overcapacity of production that is no longer in sync with the current market demands.

The company recently stated that the employee reduction in the Carate Brianza establishment was determined by the drop in the formal market, which has been the case since 2009, and which has now become structural.

Five years ago, the brand operated seven production facilities and employed 1,600 people, far surpassing today's staff figures of close to 1,000. The brand has always had a strong focus on the international market, where it records 90 per cent of its revenues. In 2016, revenues reached 216 million euros, a 2.7 per cent drop compared to the previous year.

Canali, which open around ten stores last year, boasts 180 boutiques globally, with 40 of these under direct management. The firm, still in the hands of its founding family (now third generation), has accelerated its global expansion efforts and is working to strengthen its product offering. It recently announced the release of an eyewear line with L'Amy America, which forms part of the International Luxury.

Hanes Brands, manufacturer of Hanes and Champion activewear and graphic apparel, purchased Alternative Apparel in a cash deal valued at around $60 million.

This deal permitted the brand to create value and generate growth opportunities in support of its activewear strategy. “We will be able to leverage our global low cost supply chain, which is a recognised social, environmental and ethical leader, with another strong brand to expand our market and channel penetration, including online.” Hanes CEO Gerald Evans Jr. announced.

Hanes has been aggressively adding to its portfolio through the acquisition of licensed logo companies Gear for Sports — which sells through college bookstores — and Knights Apparel, which focuses on the mass tier. It also acquired GTM Sportswear — makers of custom high school team and fan apparel. Hanes also launched Hanes Ink, an online business that creates custom college and high school garments.

Hanes also released preliminary third quarter results where the company estimates net sales will be around $1.8 billion with earnings per share of 55 cents.

Alternative Apparel, which had been outsourcing, will now be able to tap into Hanes’ owned factories.

Starting operations in 1995, Alternative Apparel has been known for comfort. Hanes estimates the company’s full-year net sales will reach $70 million.

Alternative CEO Evan Toporek, will continue to lead the business, disclosed that he’s looking forward to scaling the business through the Hanes supply chain. “Partnering with a like-minded company that is a long time industry innovator and leader will benefit our employees, customers and brand as a whole.

“Alternative Apparel has an attractive business model, a very strong and differentiated brand, and a highly talented team of employees. Adding the Alternative brand and product line up further diversifies our sales mix as we emphasize growth across all channels, including online.”

Recently, Operation X journalists from a Danish TV program began investigating what H&M did with its new, unsold apparel which led them to Denmark-based waste disposal company KARA/NOVEREN where they allegedly witnessed H&M garments being delivered to the company prior to incineration.

The H&M Group is reported to have burnt approximately 60 tonnes of new, unsold garments since 2013. The retailer, however, has denied the allegations. “For H&M to send our products for incineration is very rare, it’s only done when they do not fulfil our safety regulations — if they are mould infested or do not fulfil our strict chemical requirements.”

Industry experts, note that H&M could be burning apparel due to overproduction. This is a common dilemma for fast fashion retailers, including H&M and Zara, who constantly bring out new styles.

The investigation revealed that H&M delivered these garments to the above mentioned facility about five times a year to be burned; items of clothing includes cowboy-themed trousers for children and dark blue women’s pants with price tags attached.

Earlier the investigating team managed to get two different pairs of pants sent to this agency, to be burned, and sent them to an independent laboratory. The team also bought two similar pairs of pants at an H&M store and also sent them to the lab to be tested, to find out if there were differences in the chemicals present in the trousers to be incinerated and the ones they purchased. Test results showed that the trousers sent to be burned didn’t possess any harmful chemicals and had normal amounts of bacteria.

H&M announced that most new and unsold apparel is donated to charity, or recycled and put back into the fashion sphere. The retailer said that it plans to have 100 per cent of its materials come from recycled or sustainable sources, including organic cotton, by 2030.

DuPon Sorona, Invistas Cordura brand, and DuPont Tate and Lyle Bio Products will be giving workwear brands a sneak peek of new developmental fabrics in the next chapter of a series of more innovative, enhanced sustainable textile solutions for workwear and outdoor wear at the A+A Show, in Dusseldorf, Germany. Now, designers of apparel, footwear and gear will have even more options when looking for built-to-last durable fabrics that incorporate high performance materials across multiple layers.

Invista’s Cordura brand and DuPont Tate and Lyle Bio Products have been collaborating throughout the year to create next-generation eco-efficient textile solutions. The series combines long-lasting abrasion resistance and bio-based Susterra propanediol coatings and membranes, inspiring consumers to embrace the Cordura brand ethos that sustainability begins with Products That Last. At A+A, the brands will unveil an innovative new softshell fabric development integrating DuPont Sorona bio-based, high-performance fiber technology.

Since the early 1900s, DuPont has been revolutionizing the world of fiber and polymers. From the first plastic-coated fabrics developed in the 1910s to groundbreaking fibers like rayon, and nylon 6,6, neoprene rubber fabric, and more, DuPont has spent over a century creating textile products that transform the way we live and work. With this latest collaboration, the DuPon Sorona brand, the DuPont Tate and Lyle Bio Products Susterra brand and INVISTA’s Cordura brand usher in the next chapter in textile innovation, combining long-lasting durability and bio-based, performance technologies.

To help make this idea a reality, the brands engaged authorized apparel fabric mill, Everest, to develop this durable bio-based Cordura fabric soft-shell solution. Everest’s soft-shell laminate features a durable Cordura Naturalle fabric on the outer face, a middle layer polyurethane bio-based membrane containing more than 25 per cent renewable sourced materials by weight and a soft fleece backing. The integration of the lightweight Sorona fiber-based fleece helps provide cozy warmth and soft hand feel for day-in, day-out comfort. The result is a fabric engineered to help keep you comfortable through all of life’s durable adventures with eco-efficiency in mind.

Post over 110 years of continuous production, Cone Denim’s factory in the city of Greensboro is to discontinue operations.

Kenneth Kunberger, President and CEO of International Textile Group, Inc. (ITG) announced that it will shut down operations at the Cone Denim White Oak Plant on December 31 this year.

The company disclosed that over the years’ changes in market demand have significantly reduced volumes at their factory and correspondingly it also will not be able to sustain itself with higher manufacturing costs. This closure will impact 200 workers.

Mr. Kunberger said, “We truly regret having to take this action to close operations, and we deeply appreciate the loyalty and dedication of all current and former employees of the White Oak Plant. Their talent, effort, innovation, dedication, and customer focus all combined to create a White Oak brand, heritage, and legacy that will forever be the heart of the Cone Denim business.”

Greensboro’s Mayor, Nancy Vaughan said: “This loss is regrettable, as Cone Denim has long been an important part of our City’s history and heritage. That will not change, especially as International Textile Group will retain its headquarters, community involvement, product development and other corporate and division activities in Greensboro. We remain optimistic about Greensboro’s employment prospects, as we chart an aggressive path toward new economic development with our regional partners.”

Bemis Associates, bonding innovation and design partner to the world’s leading intimates, lifestyle, luxury, and sportswear brands, unveil Sewfree Elevation, a new adhesive for heat-sensitive fabrics that showed at Interfiliere Shanghai on October 10-11, 2017. Bemis also showcased the Lingerie to Live in Collection, its first intimate’s collection of bonded bras, panties, and men’s boxers in collaboration with Hong Kong-based intimates manufacture, Clover.

For more than 107 years, Bemis has developed the best in Sewfree products and technology alongside the most beloved brands in the U.S. and abroad. This latest foray into the intimates market coincided with a substantial consumer insights project that informed the design and fit of the entire collection.

Bemis’ newest technical innovation, Sewfree Elevation showed at Interfiliere Shanghai. Formulated specifically for heat-sensitive fabrics, this product provides best in class stretch and recovery, without compromising the hand feel of luxury fabrics such as lace. In addition to a better fit and wearing experience, Sewfree Elevation allows factories to assemble garments up to 52 per cent faster.

Bemis partners with world's great technical, performance, luxury and lifestyle brands to design, create and construct cool stuff. Collaborating closely with designers and developers, it devises solutions to help make their products higher performance, lower profile and better fitting.

As per Pakistan Bureau of Statistics the country's bed-wear textile export grew by 8.9 per cent to $355.554 million in July-Aug fiscal year 2018. Increase in bed-wear textile export now reaches $28.767 million in July-Aug of fiscal year 2018 from $384.321 million in July-Aug 2017.

Bed-wear textile export volume went up by 3.39 per cent or 2028 metric tons to 61,840 metric tons in July-Aug of fiscal year 2018 from 59,812 met ric tons in July-Aug of fiscal year 2017. In Aug 2017, Pakistan's export of bed-wear textile mounted by 15 per cent or $27.799 million to $213.878 million from $186.079 million in Aug 2016.

In term of quantity, the country's bed-wear textile export went up by 7.03 per cent or 2279 metric tons to 34,714 metric tons in Aug 2017 from 32,435 metric tons in Aug 2016.