
“COP28, coined as 'the financial focus COP,' will centre its discussions on vital financial and investment matters, highlighting the pivotal involvement of businesses in propelling climate action to preserve the target of limiting global temperature increase to 1.5°C”, says Dax Lovegrove, Head of Sustainability, Salterbaxter, a mission-driven creative consultancy at the service of sustainability. The forthcoming conference of the parties meeting remains committed to addressing challenges related to corrective climate measures. COP28 is set to conduct a global evaluation to provide guidance to governments on fortifying efforts to meet the goals outlined in the Paris Agreement.
Lovegrove points out, there is a global demand for a well-defined timetable to phase out unchecked use of fossil fuels permeating the conference discussions. The attention is also significantly directed towards the decarbonization of food and agricultural systems.
Regarding adaptation, there are persistent endeavors to establish a tangible loss and damage fund, articulate the global objective for adaptation within the Paris Agreement, and solidify commitments from developed nations to boost international financing for adaptation. The scrutiny on the progression of financial support from wealthier to more vulnerable nations will persist.
“The pressure remains on nations (especially rich ones) to do more” says Lovegrove. And businesses are expected to step up. They can drive corrective climate action from their side by managing extended impacts and providing financial support across global value chains.
Over 2,300 corporations have obtained approval for science-based targets through the Science Based Target Initiative (SBTI). However, a significant number are falling short in addressing the major portion of their ecological footprint—Scope 3 emissions. These emissions do not directly emanate from the company's operations or activities involving owned or controlled assets. Instead, they arise from the broader supply chain, for which the company holds indirect responsibility, often representing the primary area of concern.
As per the CDP, emissions originating from the supply chain can be 11 times higher than operational emissions. Surprisingly, less than one-third of companies worldwide disclose meaningful Scope 3 data, as recommended by ISS Corporate Solutions. Notably, action on Scope 3 is also limited. A European report from Centrica Business Solutions indicates being proactive in Scope 3 management is not a top priority, with 68 per cent of surveyed businesses primarily prioritizing Scope 1 and 2 in their net-zero plans.
“Progress is slow and the challenge is on. According to PWC, the annual rate of global decarbonisation must increase by seven to twelve times to get on track with limiting warming to 1.5C. The bottom line is that while nations ratchet up, businesses must do the same,” explains Lovegrove.
The key prospect is to achieve the essential carbon reduction levels within international supply chains. We Mean Business has initiated the 'Supplier Cascade' project to hasten the pace at which businesses cut down on their Scope 3 emissions. There are shining examples of leadership. Some companies have proactively taken steps to involve suppliers in setting targets and adopting sustainable practices, offering valuable lessons for others to emulate
For example, Ericsson requires suppliers to set a public target in line with halving greenhouse gas emissions by 2030. Similarly, Uniliver is providing guidance, tools and resources, for the 300 suppliers whose products have highest climate impact.
US Foods has pledged to achieve a 2027 target, wherein suppliers responsible for 67 percent of emissions from purchased goods and services are expected to establish science-based targets. Sodexo has set roadmap requirements for 2030 for suppliers covering 75 percent of supply chain emissions. Mars is actively engaged with major suppliers, representing a third of emissions, and has successfully reduced Scope 3 emissions by 6 percent from 2015 levels.
Taking a more ambitious stance, H&M Group has set a goal to reduce absolute emissions across the value chain by 56 percent by 2030, using a 2019 baseline. In addition to this, H&M has transparently allocated a significant budget to finance transitions for suppliers to adopt cleaner energy and materials.
The approach to engaging with suppliers is undergoing a significant transformation, says Lovegrove. This entails identifying and involving suppliers with the most substantial impact and influence, utilizing soft incentives such as granting preferred supplier status or offering favorable payment terms, and providing tangible support through financial assistance.
In the initial stage, the focus is on aiding suppliers in understanding and managing their carbon footprint, as well as setting targets based on guidance from the Science-Based Targets Initiative (SBTI) tailored for small and medium-sized enterprises (SMEs). This establishes accountability as suppliers take on the responsibility of achieving these set targets. Equally important is the subsequent phase, where collaboration with suppliers becomes pivotal, involving joint investment in new clean tech and energy management practices.
As the management of Scope 3 emissions becomes more widespread and suppliers receive support, it will play a crucial role in accelerating global decarbonization. This shift must occur within this decade to meet the required pace of emissions reduction and will contribute to increased investment in less affluent countries, where a substantial portion of supply chains is located. Additional financial support for climate resilience in the supply chain will unlock further funds.
“We are at the business end of keeping 1.5C alive, and business needs to play its part,” sums up Lovegrove
Greg Smith, CEO of Bremworth, suggests the recent New Zealand government directive mandating the use of woolen fibers in buildings might encourage the influx of inexpensive imports from the UK and other nations, potentially posing challenges for local sheep owners.
Smith believes, this shift could result in a doubling of wool prices in New Zealand, presenting both opportunities and risks. While addressing conflicts in global perceptions of New Zealand's sustainability practices, it may also contradict its established image as a major wool producer worldwide.
Moreover, the directive could instigate a transformative change in the farming landscape, attracting new participants to the market. This change could particularly benefit numerous tenants in New Zealand's public housing, facilitating the construction of their homes.
Smith also anticipates that this move could stimulate increased investments in research and development, fostering the production of sustainable construction materials. Additionally, the government policy is expected to significantly diminish the volume of plastic waste entering landfills, encouraging investments in the development of new materials and alternatives to synthetics.
Aquarelle, Tropic, and Laguna, three subsidiaries of CIEL Textile in India, have joined the Reverse Resources (RR) platform. This platform is dedicated to monitoring the journey of waste materials from their initial use to their transformation into new resources.
With a roster of over 600 stakeholders, including manufacturers, fashion brands, waste handlers, sorters, and recyclers, the RR platform facilitates collaboration for a more circular economy by sharing data and optimizing the textile waste supply chain.
Eric Dorchies, CEO, CIEL Textile, notes partnership with the platform aligns seamlessly with its sustainability strategy. CIEL Textile aims to divert 100 per cent of its waste towards recycling by 2030, and tracking materials will enhance efficiency throughout a product's lifecycle.
Nin Castle, Co-Founder, Lead-Recycling, and Chief Project Officer at Reverse Resources, appreciates forward-thinking manufacturing groups like CIEL Textile for actively supporting the emerging field of textile-to-textile recycling and advancing circular production processes.
Mohammad Ali Khokon, President of the Bangladesh Textile Mills Association (BTMA), has called on Bangladesh Bank to extend its refinancing facility to the textile industry, aiming to facilitate its modernization.
The Central Bank introduced a TK 10 billion refinancing scheme in 2021 to modernize and enhance the country's export-oriented sectors. This scheme offers loans at a rate of 5 to 6 percent for a period of three to ten years, with a grace period of one year.
BTMA has also urged the commerce ministry to include the country's textile sector in the new export policy for 2023-26. The current Export Policy for 2021-24 prioritizes denim, MMF, home textiles, décor, terry towels, and recycled products, overlooking crucial sectors like spinning, fabric manufacturing, dyeing, printing, and finishing.
The primary textile sector in Bangladesh has seen an investment of approximately $16.00 billion, contributing around 13 percent to the country's GDP. According to BTMA data, this sector generates over 84 percent of the country's export earnings. The export earnings for the fiscal years 2018-19, 2019-20, 2020-21, 2021-22, and 2022-23 amounted to $21.9 billion, $18 billion, $20.9 billion, $28.8 billion, and $31.03 billion, respectively.
China-based fast fashion giant, Shein, is set to make its debut in US stock market with an IPO in 2024. The company has enlisted Goldman Sachs, JPMorgan Chase, and Morgan Stanley as lead underwriters for the IPO. Shein has previously conducted discreet roadshows in the US as part of its IPO preparations. Known for its budget-friendly offerings such as $10 tops and $5 biker shorts, Shein primarily ships products individually from China via air, enabling it to circumvent import taxes in the US. Additionally, the company benefits from the 'de-minimis' provision, exempting low-cost imports from tariffs.
Ongoing negotiations with three investment banks are in progress for the potential IPO, and Shein plans to collaborate with the New York Stock Exchange and Nasdaq for the venture. With a valuation surpassing $60 billion, Shein is on track to become the most valuable China-based company to launch an IPO in the US since Didi Global's $68 billion IPO in 2021.
In a strategic move, Shein has partnered with the SPARC Group to expand its market presence and capitalize on the increasing demand for its products.

In a historic celebration of trade and cultural exchange, the inaugural Brands of India trade show, organized by the Clothing Manufacturers Association of India (CMAI), commenced at the Dubai World Trade Centre. Butti Saeed Al Ghandi, Vice-Chairman of the Dubai World Trade Centre, presided over the grand inauguration, setting the stage for a captivating showcase in Halls 6 & 7 from November 27th to 29th, 2023.
Supported by key entities such as the Embassy of India-UAE, TEXMAS, Dubai International Chamber, and the Readymade Garments Merchants Group Dubai, the event underscores the rapid expansion of Indian businesses in the UAE market. This surge is attributed to the positive momentum following the India-UAE Comprehensive Economic Partnership Agreement (CEPA) signed in 2022.
Commending CMAI for Brands of India, Piyush Goyal, Minister of Commerce & Industry, highlighted the platform as an excellent opportunity for Indian brands to establish a global presence. Under the leadership of Prime Minister Narendra Modi, the Indian government is dedicated to fostering a world-class textile sector. The event aligns with the government's vision of promoting Indian brands globally.
Rajesh Masand, President of CMAI, emphasized the long-standing economic and cultural ties between India and the UAE. Brands of India serves as a catalyst, empowering Indian Apparel brands to strengthen their presence in the MENA region. Masand also highlighted the recent cooperation in digital currencies between the two countries, a development set to further boost business.
Butti Saeed Al Ghandi, Vice-Chairman of the Dubai World Trade Centre, as the Chief Guest, emphasized the power of fashion to transcend borders and create lasting connections. He expressed delight at witnessing an event that promotes diversity and showcases the vibrant tapestry of Indian brands.
Jayesh Shah, Chairman of Brands of India, expressed excitement over the overwhelming response, with more than 350 brands participating instead of the initially envisioned 150. Renowned brands like Oxemberg, J. Hamstead, and Louis Philippe are among the 1500 buyers from over 30 countries who have pre-registered, affirming the show's potential to create exciting business prospects for Indian brands in the region.
Sunjay Sudhir, Ambassador of India to UAE, highlighted the global appeal of Indian brands and the immense scope for expansion in the Gulf, Middle East, Africa, and Europe under CEPA.
In conclusion, Brands of India is poised to be a key milestone in the international journey of Indian Apparel brands, showcasing a diverse collection spanning Western wear, Indian Ethnic wear, and Fusion wear.
Nairobi is ready to host the maiden International Textile Machinery Exhibition (ITME) Africa & ME 2023, organized by India ITME Society. Scheduled from November 30 to December 2, 2023, at the KICC in Nairobi, Kenya, this event marks a significant milestone, connecting the global textile industry to Kenya and Africa's growing textile technology and engineering sector.
Designed as a prime platform for textile manufacturers, exporters, dealers, entrepreneurs, and investors, ITME Africa 2023 is expected to draw approximately 60 exhibitors from India, 9 companies from Italy, 24 Chinese companies, and participants from Turkey, Egypt, Kenya, Germany, Austria, Ethiopia, and Taiwan.
The event will feature a series of technical sessions, including discussions on high-quality cotton cultivation and optimal spinning techniques. Eminent speakers such as Jas Bedi of KEPSA, Richard Cheruiyot of EPZA, and Naveen Joon of Exim Bank India will lead these discussions. Attendees will also have the opportunity to connect with key organizations such as the Export Processing Zone Authority (EPZA), KenInvest, Gatsby Africa, Kenya National Chamber of Commerce & Industry (KNCCI), and Fashion Agenda Africa (FAA).
In its inaugural Sustainability Bulletin, Uster Technologies, a leading quality control systems provider, delves into the complexities of incorporating recycled materials into the textile value chain. The publication is a testament to Uster's commitment to advancing sustainability across the industry.
As consumer demand for eco-friendly textiles rises, Uster's report addresses the uncertainties faced by yarn producers, offering insights into economic and technical challenges. Gabriela Peters, Head of Product Management Laboratory Systems at Uster, highlights the specific quality considerations involved in using mechanically recycled fibers in spinning, emphasizing the higher short-fiber and nep content, along with potential color issues.
The bulletin focuses on resolving challenges associated with mechanically recycled raw materials, offering clarity on processing steps and ideas for overcoming obstacles. Studies cited in the report suggest that recycled fibers are well-suited for applications where strength is less critical, making them ideal for casual wear like T-shirts and denim jeans trousers.
Uster Technologies positions itself as a knowledge provider, setting industry standards and definitions to facilitate the ongoing transformation. The Uster Statistics 2023 edition, launched at ITMA 2023, introduces a section on recycled yarn, providing benchmarks to measure, control, and improve quality. Uster acts as a neutral arbiter, guiding spinners on processing various recycled materials while emphasizing the need for collaboration across the textile chain for a sustainable future.
In conclusion, Uster Technologies sees the effective use of recycled materials as pivotal for the industry's success, urging collaboration and knowledge-sharing to navigate the transformative landscape toward a sustainable future.
Karen Radley, Founder and Managing Director of Scoop, invites fashion enthusiasts to 'Uncover the Exceptional' at Olympia West, Kensington, from the 11th to the 13th of February 2024. The curated lineup includes emerging international accessory designers, promising a diverse range of styles and innovations.
Among the highlights is Spitfire, the creative glasses label known for its bold frames and lenses, injecting a fresh style into the UK market. French footwear designer Arche presents a stylized collection, blending traditional craftsmanship with modern technology. BIBA bags celebrate high-quality natural leather, gaining character with use, while Oats and Rice showcase sustainably made cashmere scarves with unique textures and patterns.
ENAMEL Copenhagen, a Danish jewelry brand, captivates with its colorful enamel-centric designs. Palaria Dadariat, a Romanian hat atelier with over a century of tradition, and OMI's handmade Andalusian jewelry collection add a touch of history and originality to the showcase. La Coque Française returns with a fusion of high-tech and fashion in their innovative phone chain collection.
Scoop, renowned for uncovering emerging talent, will feature approximately 250 designers across women's fashion, luxury home, beauty, lifestyle, and men's collections at Olympia West. Radley emphasizes the show's commitment to bringing unique international offerings to the influential UK market, making Scoop a must-see on the global trade show circuit this February. Additionally, Pure London x JATC will run concurrently from the 11th to the 13th of February 2024 at Olympia.
The Renewable Carbon Initiative (RCI) has unveiled a groundbreaking report, "Carbon Footprints of Different Renewable Carbon-based Chemicals and Materials," presenting five peer-reviewed life cycle assessments (LCAs) from industry leaders Avantium, BASF, IFF, Lenzing, and Neste.
In a world grappling with "Code Red" warnings on climate change from the UN, the report becomes a pivotal guide. Focused on carbon footprints, it underscores the urgency of addressing the impact of chemical and material production on global warming, where fossil resources contribute over 70% to human-made climate change.
Amid calls for decarbonization, the RCI advocates for a strategy of defossilization for carbon-dependent industries. The report emphasizes the necessity of replacing dominant fossil feedstocks with renewable carbon alternatives, whether bio-based, CO2-based, or recycled. Crucially, this shift contributes to circularity by sourcing carbon from the atmosphere, biosphere, and technosphere, eliminating the introduction of additional fossil carbon into the carbon cycle.
The materials and products showcased in the report exhibit significantly reduced carbon footprints, ranging from 30–90%, compared to their fossil counterparts. The findings not only highlight existing competitive renewable carbon-based materials but also emphasize their potential to further slash emissions in the future.
The report's introduction encourages policymakers to consider the implications of renewable carbon-based materials on climate change, positioning the case studies as essential tools in guiding decisions toward climate and net-zero targets. A key takeaway is the report's alignment with reducing the influx of additional fossil carbon, mitigating the need for costly atmospheric removal and underground storage—a crucial step in fostering a circular economy and carbon loops.
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