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In a meeting with the European Union (EU) monitoring mission in Bangladesh, Faruque Hassan, President of the Bangladesh Garment Manufacturers and Exporters Association (BGMEA), has urged the global trade body to sustain its backing for the country's ready-made garment industry. Hassan pressed the EU mission to enhance its commitment to sustainability and uplift the well-being of garment workers. He also advocated for extending the Generalized System of Preferences (GSP) transitional period from three to six years, aiming for a smoother transition during the Least Developed Country (LDC) graduation.
The EU delegation, led by Paola Pampaloni, Acting Managing Director of the Asia-Pacific Department at the European External Action Service (EEAS), included key representatives from EEAS, the Directorate General for Trade, and the Directorate General for Employment, Social Affairs, and Inclusion. The discussions covered critical issues related to the garment industry, addressing a six-point recommendation encompassing child labor, labor law reform, and other worker rights issues.
Hassan outlined the current situation, placing emphasis on workplace safety, sustainability initiatives, and recent labor reforms. He highlighted a significant increase in the minimum wage for garment workers in Bangladesh.
Additionally, Hassan urged ongoing EU support to maximize the advantages of the GSP Plus arrangement following the country's graduation from the category of Least Developed Countries.
In August 2023, the Synthetic & Rayon Textiles Export Promotion Council (SRTEPC) reported a 4.8 per cent drop in Indian man-made fiber (MMF) textile exports, with values decreasing from $495 million in August 2022 to $471 million. The overall trend from April to August 2023 revealed a 12 per cent fall in MMF exports, dropping from $2,568 million in 2022 to $2,260 million.
Despite this general decline, MMF fabric exports exhibited a positive growth of 15 per cent in August 2023. However, this growth counteracted due to contractions in other sectors, including man-made fibres, MMF yarns, and MMF made-ups.
From April to August 2023, MMF fabrics emerged as the most significant exported commodity, making up 38 per cent of total exports. With MMF yarns accounting for 29 per cent, MMF made-ups at 25 per cent, and man-made fibres at 8 per cent, says the report.
Specifically, export values for polyester staple fibre (PSF) and partially oriented yarn (POY) experienced a fall of 32 per cent and 55 per cent respectively, compared to the same period in 2022. In contrast, the export value of viscose staple fibre (VSF) surged by 83 per cent.
The dominance in MMF yarn exports was seen in Polyester filament yarns (PFY), comprising 47 per cent of total exports, followed by Poly-cotton (PC) spun yarn at 9 per cent. Additionally, MMF woven fabrics and MMF nonwoven fabrics recorded growth rates of 4.2 and 20 per cent, respectively.
The US saw the largest share of exports from India at 15 per cent from April to August 2023. Turkiye followed closely with an 11 per cent share, while the United Arab Emirates and Bangladesh held 7 and 5 per cent respectively. Notably, exports to Bangladesh saw an impressive growth of 129 per cent during this period.
The Mumbai unit of the Textile Association (India) is set to host an international conference titled 'Sustainability and Circularity—The New Challenges for The Textile Value Chain' on January 31, 2024, at The Lalit hotel. The primary objective is to raise awareness among designers and fashion institutes about the innovative circular sustainable model.
The conference will delve into various challenges and solutions related to circularity, aligning with the UN Sustainable Development Goals. Emphasis will be placed on promoting the use of recycled materials and enhancing their processing techniques. The event will also spotlight advancements in chemical molecular recycling and the development of new natural colorants.
A significant aspect of the conference will be the exploration of the role of digitization in elevating sustainability practices. Esteemed speakers, including policymakers, renowned textile professionals, and experts from around the world and India, will address the conference. Anticipated to draw 400 quality participants from across India, this high-profile event aims to contribute to the discourse on sustainable practices in the textile industry.
YKK has unveiled its latest innovation, the DynaPel water-repellant zipper, incorporating groundbreaking GTT EMPEL technology. Engineered to seamlessly integrate into garment recycling systems, DynaPel eschews the conventional polyurethane (PU) film, a hindrance to textile-to-textile recycling. This revolutionary approach addresses a major bottleneck in the recycling process by eliminating urethane materials, facilitating the circularity of performance apparel.
Terry Tsukumo, Vice President of the Product Strategy Division at YKK Corporation, emphasized DynaPel as a pivotal addition to their circular system-focused fasteners. By adopting EMPEL technology, the zipper not only ensures robust water protection, a hallmark of YKK products but also overcomes PU-related recycling challenges.
Traditional garment recycling systems struggle with the common PU film found in water-repellent zippers. DynaPelT’s innovation eradicates the need for zipper removal before recycling, streamlining the process and reducing unnecessary waste. EMPEL® technology, characterized by eco-friendly chemistry without PFAS and a unique manufacturing process, forms a durable, invisible water-repellent layer through molecular cross-linking within the yarn.
Presented at the Outdoor Retailer trade show in Salt Lake City and soon to be featured at the ISPO trade fair in Munich, DynaPel has earned a nomination for the Best New Product Award in the ISPO Textrends competition. Tsukumo envisions DynaPel as the herald of a new era in sustainable, high-performance water-repellant zippers, marking a paradigm shift in the future of zipper technology.
U.S. Senators, including Ron Wyden, Bill Cassidy, Tim Kaine, Thom Tillis, Mark Warner, Lindsey Graham, Sherrod Brown, and Tim Scott, have jointly called on U.S. Customs and Border Protection (CBP) to bolster efforts preventing Chinese companies from skirting U.S. laws against forced labor.
The senators emphasized the need for heightened oversight and enforcement provisions within trade agreements involving Central American and North American partners. In a letter to Acting CBP Commissioner Troy Miller, the senators stressed the urgency of enforcing the Dominican Republic-Central American Free Trade Agreement and the United States-Mexico-Canada Agreement.
The closure of U.S. textile and apparel mills raised concerns, attributing the decline to insufficient customs enforcement. The senators linked lax enforcement to the infiltration of banned Xinjiang cotton into regional supply chains, undermining efforts to implement the Uyghur Forced Labor Prevention Act.
The letter emphasized the pivotal role of robust enforcement in securing supply chains and ensuring compliance with trade agreements. As the U.S. is a major cotton producer, the senators urged CBP to swiftly address trade cheating before products reach American shores.
The senators proposed immediate actions, including increasing on-site verifications of textile facilities, fostering information-sharing arrangements with customs authorities, enhancing the targeting of fraudulent shipments, and conducting a comprehensive review of enforcement authorities.
They underscored the importance of a strategic plan to maximize CBP's tools and resources for compliance with trade rules. In essence, the senators are urging proactive measures to safeguard American jobs and industries against potential exploitation through trade agreements.
ITMA Asia + CITME 2023, set to run from November 19 to 23 at the National Exhibition and Convention Centre in Shanghai, will spotlight Groz-Beckert's cutting-edge textile advancements. Positioned in Hall H4 Booth C06, the exhibition will showcase the company's strides in six pivotal product domains: Knitting, Weaving, Felting, Tufting, Carding, and Sewing.
Knitting breakthroughs
Under the banner "Innovation through cooperation," Groz-Beckert will unveil groundbreaking innovations in Circular Knitting, including the LCmax circular knitting machine needle. This technology promises up to 20% energy savings, enhanced machine speed, and optimal handling. The Flat Knitting segment introduces the SAN TT for technical textiles and SAN FY for robust fancy yarns, ensuring heightened process reliability.
Weaving excellence
Weaving highlights include the KnotMaster tying machine and the WarpMasterPlus drawing-in machine, offering efficiency and flexibility. Groz-Beckert's broad portfolio of healds and heald frames will also be on display, emphasizing stability, low weight, and innovative features for modern weaving machines.
Felting Advancements
In the Felting realm, Groz-Beckert presents a groundbreaking barb design for needles, emphasizing durability and reduced wear, alongside the felting needle module for MicroPunch intensive needling technology, pushing the boundaries of needle density.
Tufting precision
Groz-Beckert's Tufting products spotlight the gauge part system, essential for producing tufted floor coverings. Precision in needle and looper modules, reed finger module, and tufting knives ensure seamless interaction for impeccable results.
Carding innovations
In the Carding domain, the exhibition showcases advancements catering to nonwovens and spinning industries. Notable offerings include the world's finest interlocking wire, SiroLock plus types, and maintenance-free cylinder wire, all designed to enhance carding efficiency.
Sewing solutions
The Sewing segment features special application needles from the SAN series, tailored for demanding operations. The SAN 5.2, SAN 6, and SAN 10, equipped with GEBEDUR coating, promise increased stability and reliability across various fabric types.
Sustainability corner
Groz-Beckert emphasizes sustainability, showcasing products and innovations aimed at reducing the company's carbon footprint. A dedicated sustainability theme corner underscores the company's commitment to eco-friendly practices, presenting implemented measures and highlighting the integral role of sustainability in everyday operations.
Boutique Living, a leading brand under Indo Count Industries, introduces the opulent Caressa Collection, marking a significant stride in high-end home textiles. Merging TENCEL botanical fibers with cotton, the collection promises unparalleled softness, comfort, and positive wellness effects, enhancing the fabric of daily life.
Crafted with expertise, the Caressa Collection embraces the natural goodness of TENCEL fibers, extracted from eucalyptus trees, creating bed linens that redefine luxury and contribute to overall well-being. The blend of TENCEL and cotton ensures an unprecedented level of softness, vibrant hues, and traditional comfort, delivering a restful and healthier sleep experience.
KK Lalpuria, CEO & Executive Director of Boutique Living, emphasizes the unique appeal of the collection, stating, "The Caressa Collection is the perfect amalgamation of quality, comfort, and aesthetics, providing an ambiance of luxury and relaxation." Importantly, this offering isn't just about quality; it's about affordability, making sophistication and comfort accessible to all.
Rajiv Merchant, President Domestic Retail at Indo Count Industries, highlights the collection's embodiment of top-tier quality, unparalleled comfort, and captivating aesthetics. The diverse designs, inspired by global sensibilities and the timeless charm of American homes, offer a classic look that transcends trends. The collection includes bed sheet sets with thread counts ranging from 200 to 500 tc, priced affordably from Rs. 2299 onwards, and is available through various retailers and the Boutique Living website.
Avinash Mane, Senior Commercial Director (Textiles) for Lenzing Group, emphasizes the longstanding partnership with Indo Count Industries, underscoring the Caressa Collection's commitment to superior comfort, aesthetics, and sustainability. The collection exemplifies these features, delivering exceptional value and experience to Indian consumers.
The last few years, abetted by the pandemic-led lockdown and the worldwide economic downturn that followed, India’s textile sector faced sluggish growth. However, things have turned around as the stock markets indicate and investors, impressed with figures posted by sector’s big players, are rushing in to invest. So, what helped the ailing sector to bounce back into health? A mixed bag of reasons has contributed to positive investor leaning.
India’s FTAs are nearing successful completion that will give local textile import duty advantage. Domestic cotton prices gave started falling, lowering cost of production. The US importers have suddenly upped orders for cotton sheets and terry towels, thanks to home textiles receiving a boost as more Americans are working hybrid and investing in upgrading their home interiors. As global retailers push sales hard, their inventory is decreasing, opening up the possibility of larger orders.
Local textile exporters are seeing reasons to believe the second half of year will play out to their advantage. That is perhaps a reason why textile-related stocks such as Raymond, Vardhman Textiles, Arvind, Trident, Gokaldas Exports, Welspun, KPR Mills and Himatsingka Seide have seen a rally of 4 to 12 per cent recently. For example, Fidelity Investments India acquired a 1 per cent stake in KPR Mill in August 2023 that spiked close attention on the Indian textile sector.
Expert recommendations are flying in
The Indian textile and apparel market size was around $165 billion in 2022, and is projected to grow at a 10 per cent CAGR to reach $350 billion by 2030 as stated by FICCI-Wazir Advisors study. Reputable financial investment advisory entities are recommending ‘Buy’ for textile stocks. ICICI Securities and Edelweiss Finance have initiated a ‘Buy’ recommendation for Gokaldas Exports keeping the target price at Rs973 and Rs 933, respectively. Similarly, Axis Direct recommends a ‘Buy’ on Welspun with a target price of Rs 160. As per Motilal Oswal Financial Services’ recently published report, the top 10 textile stocks to invest in are: Welspun India, Trident, Lux Industries, Garware Technical Fibres, Raymond, KPR Mills, Siyaram Silks, Go Fashion India and Nitin Spinners.
Interestingly, featured for the first time in Oswal’s Top 10 is c, a New Age textile stock. The company is primarily in the business of manufacturing different types of bottom wear for women. The products are marketed under the ‘Go Colours’ brand and sold both online, through retail stores. Out of the 10 listed in the report, Coimbatore-based KPR Mills was seen as the most stable of stock and Nitin Spinners as the one with biggest export potential. Oswal also pointed out the retail textile business is the most profitable in India, as it involves no machinery and raw materials and minimal workforce. However, the marketing expenses are higher.
Investment with caution
Given the recent upheavals not only in global textile sector but also within India, investment advisors are asking for caution and for good reason. Market capitalization is a important decision-making factor as companies with large market-capitalized stocks are less volatile to fluctuations than mid or small-capitalized companies. However, there are instances where small-capitalized or mid-capitalized companies delivered better returns compared to large ones. In terms of profits, investors need to ensure a company’s stock profitability history as being more or less consistent keeping in mind that the entire sector globally faced tough times post Covid.
Having appeared from the ashes of gloom, the period ahead seems bright for textile stocks. However, some indicators are based on projection and need to perform for this success run to unfold to its true potential.
General Department of Customs from Vietnam has urged garment exporters to adopt more sustainability in their operations, in line with increasing trends. This will help them tide over current global uncertainties. According to the statistics of the department, Vietnam’s garment exports declined 12.9 per cent to $27.7 billion in the first 10 months of this year while textile exports declined by 10.8 per cent to $3.65 billion.
However, in October, Vietnam’s textile exports increased by 4 per cent to $389 million while garment exports declined by 0.1 per cent.
At the global level too, garment and textile exports declined during the first 10 months of the year owing to a decrease in global aggregate demand driven by geopolitical tensions, global economic recession, rising inflation in major markets such as the US and the EU, and tightened monetary policies forcing consumers to cut spending, point out Dương Thuỳ Linh, Deputy General Secretary, Việt Nam Cotton and Spinning Association (VCOSA).
Vietnam’s garment and textile industry also suffers with growing demand for more sustainability and increased competition from exporters in Bangladesh and Myanmar. This has led to many textile companies narrowing their production scale to 50-80 per cent from the end of last year to the second quarter of this year. Though most producers resumed their full capacity from July this year, their export value is projected to drop by 10 per cent to $40 billion this year
Linh expects Việt Nam’s garment industry to benefit from cheap labor and new-generation free trade agreements (FTAs) signed with major markets. Phạm Văn Việt, Chairman, Việt Thắng Jean Company, affirms, despite low purchasing power, orders in the Vietnam market are gradually recovering to around 80 per cent for the last quarter of this year.
Nguyễn Thị Tuyết Mai, Deputy General Secretary, Việt Nam Textile and Apparel Association, adds, many local producers continue to face difficulties in meeting sustainability standards. However, several fibre producers met international standards such as Global Recycle Standard, Oeko-Tex and BCI, and were switching to using organic cotton, natural fibres and renewable energy in production, Linh adds.
With almost all factories reopening and workers returning to their workplaces, normalcy has started resoring in the Bangladesh garment industry, said Faruque Hassan President, Bangladesh Garment Manufacturers and Exporters Association (BGMEA). Only a few factories in Ashulia continue to remain close though they are expected open soon, Hassan added. The association has been successful in getting minimum wages for workers in Bangladesh increased to Tk 12,500, equivalent to around $113.63, from Tk 8,000 at present.
In a letter to the American Apparel & Footwear Federation (AAFF), Hassan also sought higher prices from retailers and brands such as AEO Inc, Adidas, Amer Exports, Hugo Boss. Under Armour, etc in line with the hike in the wages.
Factories are also upgrading machine, process and production methods to ensure workplace safety, comfort for workers and to reduce fatigue, Hassan added. He believes implementing the new wage structure would prove challenging for many factories given the current economic and financial circumstances. However, the association remains committed to ensure a decent living to garment workers, he reiterated. He called for an adjusted in prices of all goods shipped from December 1, 2023, to cover the increase in wages.
