FW
Miu Miu has dethroned Loewe to become the hottest brand in the world, according to the latest Lyst Index released recently. The quarterly ranking, which analyzes the online shopping behavior of millions of consumers, reveals the most sought-after brands and products across the globe.
Miu Miu's resurgence can be attributed to a 30 per cent quarter-on-quarter increase in searches for the brand, driven by its distinctive "alt-girl" aesthetic and popular items like the $3,050 Arcadie bag, which ranked as the fourth hottest product this quarter.
Miu Miu has consistently captured the zeitgeist with its playful and subversive designs, points out Lyst's Chief Insights Officer. "The brand's ability to connect with Gen Z and millennial consumers through social media and celebrity endorsements has been key to its success."
Loewe, which briefly held the top spot in Q2, slipped to second place, while Prada maintained its position in third. Saint Laurent and Alaïa rounded out the top five, with the latter making a significant leap of 12 places thanks to the enduring popularity of its fishnet ballet flats.
Table: Top 10 hottest brands
|
Rank |
Brand |
|
1 |
Miu Miu |
|
2 |
Loewe |
|
3 |
Prada |
|
4 |
Saint Laurent |
|
5 |
Alaïa |
|
6 |
Bottega Veneta |
|
7 |
Jacquemus |
|
8 |
Gucci |
|
9 |
The Row |
|
10 |
Valentino |
Alaïa's ascent
One of the most notable shifts in the Index is the rise of Alaïa, which jumped 12 places to claim the fifth spot. This surge in popularity is largely due to the creative direction of Pieter Mulier, who has revitalized the brand while honoring its heritage.
"Mulier's collections have struck a chord with consumers who appreciate the sensuality and craftsmanship of Alaïa," notes a fashion analyst at Lyst. "The brand's iconic fishnet ballet flats, which topped the hottest products list this quarter, have become a must-have item for fashion enthusiasts."
The Lyst Index also highlighted the growing influence of sportswear brands, with Nike and Adidas climbing the rankings. This trend is driven by the increasing popularity of athleisure and the blurring lines between sportswear and high fashion.
Sneaker wars heat up
The report also revealed the hottest products of the quarter, with Alaïa's fishnet ballet flats taking the top spot. However, sneakers made a strong showing, with Puma's Speedcat – seen on celebrities like Dua Lipa and Emily Ratajkowski – claiming third place following a 532 per cent spike in demand.
"The Speedcat's success demonstrates the power of celebrity endorsement and the enduring appeal of retro-inspired designs," notes Lubin. "It's a classic case of a heritage product being rediscovered and reinterpreted for a modern audience."
Other notable trends include the continued popularity of suede accessories, with Coach's Brooklyn shoulder bag and Miu Miu's Arcadie bag ranking second and fourth respectively.
Key trends
Retro revival: The Lyst Index highlights a growing interest in retro-inspired fashion, with items like Alaïa's fishnet flats and Coach's Brooklyn suede shoulder bag proving particularly popular.
Quiet luxury: Brands like The Row and Bottega Veneta, known for their understated elegance and high-quality materials, continue to resonate with consumers seeking timeless pieces.
Sportswear influence: Ralph Lauren's rise in the rankings reflects the ongoing influence of sportswear on luxury fashion.
As the fashion industry enters the final quarter of 2024, it remains to be seen whether Miu Miu can maintain its momentum. However, with its strong brand identity and innovative designs, the Italian fashion house is well-positioned for continued success.
At ITMA ASIA + CITME 2024, held in Shanghai amid challenging market conditions, Karl Mayer Group showcased innovations under its theme ‘Master the Change.’ The company highlighted solutions tailored to help textile businesses navigate industry shifts, drawing over 800 visitors, primarily from China, India, and Turkey.
Kong Zhen, General Manager of Karl Mayer (China), emphasized the positive response to the company’s exhibit, featuring cutting-edge textile machinery and digital solutions. Top attractions included the HKS 2-S tricot machine, producing fine E44-grade fabrics for sun protection apparel, and the CMS 503 ki L flat knitting machine, known for its productivity and pattern versatility, displayed through an intricate ladies scarf.
Digital tools Create Design and Create Plus, offered by KM.ON, impressed attendees by enhancing design efficiency for flat knitwear, while the new Warp direct warping machine drew interest for its high-speed, high-quality output and short amortization time.
Kong noted that discussions were especially in-depth, reflecting growing market optimism, partly spurred by recent government subsidies. These interactions resulted in several key contracts, extending beyond machinery sales to new product developments.
Karl Mayer remains committed to providing technology that enhances operational flexibility, sustainability, and profitability for its customers, reinforcing its industry leadership despite fluctuating market dynamics.
Source Fashion, Europe's prominent responsible sourcing event, has set new dates for its next edition, running from 18th–20th February 2025 at Olympia London. Following visitor feedback, the show will now take place mid-week to better align with industry needs.
Since its debut in February 2023, Source Fashion has seen impressive growth, with a 65 per cent annual visitor increase, providing a platform for brands and retailers to connect with ethically audited manufacturers worldwide.
The February event will broaden its offerings with expanded sectors including footwear, leather, and a heightened focus on UK manufacturers. Additionally, the show will reorganize its layout by product category such as Womenswear, Menswear, Footwear, Accessories, Source Luxury, and Technology & Servicesrather than by country.
Suzanne Ellingham, Director of Source Events at Hyve Group, noted that the shift to mid-week dates directly addresses visitor preferences and aligns with the increasing demand for sustainable sourcing options. She highlighted that the event's objective is to support brands in establishing responsible supply chains.
The event now ranks as Europe’s largest garment manufacturing showcase, with exhibitors from regions like Peru, Cambodia, Pakistan, and Italy, drawing high-profile visitors such as John Lewis, ASOS, and Harrods. Simon Platts, Co-Founder of Recomme, encouraged industry professionals to attend, highlighting the show’s commitment to responsible sourcing and its alignment with sustainability goals.
US-based children’s apparel retailer, the Children’s Place is teaming up with fast-growing Chinese-founded shopping app, Shein to sell the brand’s clothing on its platform. Currently, The Children’s Place storefront is accessible to US Shein customers with the brand planning a global rollout in phases.
This collaboration represents a notable shift for Shein, which typically focuses on its own brand’s affordable fashion and accessories from a worldwide vendor network. The new partnership with The Children’s Place also follows recent changes in US customs regulations; an executive order from President Biden has removed the tax exemption on imports worth less than $800 from China—a move that impacts many Shein shipments to the U.S.
Emphasing the value of this new partnership, Claudia Lima-Guinehut, Brand President, says, it is essential for the brand, providing exceptional value and trendy children’s apparel, to expand its omnichannel strategy. It’s partnership with Sheinenables it to offers customers convenience, value, and satisfaction.
The Children’s Place has faced financial challenges in recent years. In May 2024, Jane Elfers, CEO, who led the company since 2010, stepped down in a ‘mutual agreement.’ Earlier, in April 2024, the company secured a second loan from its majority shareholder, Mithaq Capital SPC, totaling $90 million. This follows $78.6 million in unsecured, interest-free funding received from Mithaq in February, bringing the total support to $168.6 million this year.
Expressing her enthusiasm over the collaboration, Jessica Liu, Vice President, Global Brand Operations, Shein, states, this partnership underscores the retailer’s commitment to offer a diverse selection of affordable, high-quality options. The e-commerce operator looks forward to integrating more renowned brands like The Children’s Place into the its shopping experience.
The Children’s Place operates as an omni-channel retailer, with two digital storefronts, over 500 stores across North America, wholesale distribution, and a global reach through franchise partners in 15 countries.
The Q2, FY25 revenues of Vardhman Textiles rose by 4.38 per cent Y-o-Y while its profit increased by 46.57 per cent Y-o-Y. On a Q-o-Q basis, the company noted an 8.4 per cent Q-o-Q rise in revenue while its profit declined by 17.47 per cent Q-o-Q.
The company’s Selling, General, and Administrative (SG&A) expenses increased by 3.55 per cent Q-o-Q and 11.17 per cent YoY, indicating Vardhman’s continued investment in operational capabilities and customer engagement initiatives. Its operating income declined by 14.15 per cent Q-o-Q but increased by 111.99 per cent Y-o-Y increase, highlighting the company's effective long-term strategies to boost profitability.
The company’s Earnings per Share (EPS) grew by 46.61 per cent Y-o-Y to Rs6.92 in Q2, FY25, signaling a strong trajectory of earnings growth and operational efficiency.
The Q2, FY25 net profit of leading textile player, Mafatlal Industries declined to Rs 20 crore ($2.4 million) as against Rs 21 crore profit registered in the corresponding quarter last year.
The company’s revenue for the quarter rose by 223 per cent to Rs 996 crore, as against Rs 309 crore in the corresponding quarter of the previous fiscal year.
With an order book of around Rs 1,200 crore, Mafatlal Industries currently supplies products to various clients in the textile and consumer durable segment from the governments of Maharashtra, Jharkhand and Tripura.
MB Raghunath, CEO, says, the company recorded a topline of Rs 996 crore during this quarter and Rs 1,447 crore in the first half of the year. It continues to explore opportunities within its supply chain network to broaden its horizons. In line with this strategy, it successfully executed large orders in the consumer durable goods space during the quarter.
A flagship company of the Arvind Mafatlal Group, Mafatlal Industries offers a wide range of products that include suitings, shirts, fabrics, voiles, uniforms, etc.
Transforming the industry, Finnish textile innovation company, Spinnova has introduced a sustainable alternative to cotton: a 100 per cent recyclable cellulose fiber. This new technology not only helps significantly reduce the industry’s environmental impactbut also lowers its dependence on cotton by providing a groundbreaking option for eco-friendly textiles.
After nearly a decade of research, Spinnova has pioneered a unique method of producing textile fiber from wood pulp or waste pulp through a mechanical, chemical-free process. This avoids harmful chemicals or dissolution, making it suitable for large-scale production, explained Shahriare Mahmood, Chief Product and Sustainability Officer, Spinnova at a seminar in Dhaka. The company aims to price the fiber competitively and target the organic cotton market segment, he added, emphasising it could eventually substitute cotton, whose production has declined amid climate challenges even as demand rises.
Spinnova's innovation has attracted the interest of the denim industry, with Bangladeshi textile mill NZ Denim incorporating the fiber into its denim production over the past two and a half years. A challenging application, denim requires specific aesthetics, and the Spinnova fiber has proven to be a suitable replacement, retaining the look and feel of natural fibers like cotton and linen, Mahmood highlighted.
The fiber offers absorption properties similar to natural cellulosic fibers and can be blended with other materials. It also boasts higher thermal resistance than cotton, as verified by lab tests. Notably, global sportswear brand Adidas recently launched hoodies using Spinnova fibers, further validating its potential in high-performance textiles.
Lasse Holopainen, Chief Revenue Officer, Spinnova, noted, the minimum production capacity for a Spinnova fiber plant is at least 50 tons per day, which provides ample opportunity for its large-scale adoption. Given Bangladesh’s position as the second-largest apparel exporter, it is ideally positioned to adopt Spinnova’s technology as brands increase their focus on recycled and eco-friendly materials.
Organised by SAS Enterprise in collaboration with Spinnova, the Dhaka seminar focused on exploring sustainable textile solutions. Mahmood presented Spinnova’s fiber production process, which uses Kraft pulp and a dry spinning technique, requiring no water or chemicals.
In his welcome speech, Rajibul Huq Chowdhury, Managing Director, Aziz Group, emphasised the significance of sustainable practices for the textile sector’s future. A Matin Chowdhury, Managing Director, New Asia Group, underscored the need for innovative solutions to meet global demand sustainably.
During a panel discussion moderated by Ayub Nabi Khan, Pro-Vice-Chancellor, BGMEA University of Fashion & Technology, Saleudh Zaman Khan, Managing Director, NZ Tex Group, discussed the practical applications of sustainable fibers in Bangladesh, highlighting the prospects and challenges in the country's textile sector.
An iconic brand that dominated the 1980s and ‘90s, Esprit has gone into administration, and is officially filing for bankruptcy in the United States. The brand joins a list of retailers like Express, The Body Shop, Ted Baker, and Rue21, who have all shuttered locations amid financial struggles. As a part of its bankruptcy process, Esprit plans to close all its American subsidiaries including Esprit US Distributions, which managed its wholesale business, and Esprit US Retail Inc, which oversaw its retail and online operations.
Esprit attributes its decisionto ‘weak business and financial conditions’ and ‘unsatisfactory operating results,’ explaining that these subsidiaries were unlikely to bring in enough revenue to cover costs and meet debts.
Earlier this year, Espirit’s headquarters in Germany also filed for bankruptcy. The brand had already exited the US market back in 2012 due to profitability issues and declared bankruptcy in 2020. However, it emerged with a renewed hope after restructuring and even attempted a comeback in the US market in 2022, starting with a pop-up store in Los Angeles. The company announced plans to set up stores in LA, New York, Miami, Vancouver, and Toronto. However, now these plans are currently on an indefinite hold.
Recognised for its distinctive ‘E; logo, Espirit has been operating since the last six decades. While the brand’s American operations are closing down, its future in the international market remains uncertain.
Bangladesh, the world’s leading garment producer, has chosen to bypass India by exporting textiles via the Maldives, redirecting goods by sea and then shipping them by air to global clients like H&M and Zara. This move aims to enhance control over its supply chain and reduce delays, according to sources, impacting revenue previously generated by Indian airports and ports.
Industry experts consider this shift a strategic move, with Arun Kumar, president of India’s Association of Multimodal Transport Operators, noting that by bypassing Indian ports, Bangladesh gains increased reliability, which is essential for meeting strict international deadlines. Textile shipments are highly time-sensitive, and delays can result in rejected consignments, impacting Bangladesh’s ability to deliver seasonal apparel to Western brands.
This redirection comes amid efforts by the Indian government to address the economic impact of losing transit revenue. A portion of these exports is linked to Indian-owned facilities in Bangladesh, highlighting the deep trade ties between the two countries. However, Indian exporters appear unfazed, noting that local airports are already congested, and pointing out that India’s Apparel Export Promotion Council had previously sought limits on Bangladeshi goods transiting through Indian hubs.
In FY24, Bangladesh’s garment exports fell by 4.34 per cent to $44.47 billion. Despite the rerouting, India remains a crucial supplier of raw materials to Bangladesh, with cotton shipments reaching $1.86 billion in FY24 alone.
The textile industry is constantly evolving, and one of the most exciting new developments is 3D weaving. This innovative technology allows for the creation of seamless, three-dimensional garments and fabrics with intricate designs and complex shapes, directly on the loom.
Making a mark with innovations and applications
Unlike traditional weaving, which produces flat fabric, 3D weaving interlaces yarns in three perpendicular directions (x, y, and z) to create complex shapes and structures within the fabric itself. This opens up a world of possibilities for both aesthetics and functionality.
While both 3D weaving and seamless/whole garment knitting produce seamless garments, they differ in their underlying technology and end applications. 3D weaving interlaces yarns in three dimensions to create woven fabrics with complex structures and thicknesses. It’s ideal for tailored garments, technical textiles, and applications requiring high strength and durability. Seamless/whole garment knitting on the other hand uses knitting needles to create complete garments with minimal seams. It is well-suited for sportswear, knitwear, and applications prioritizing flexibility and comfort.
The advantages of 3D weaving are many. Most importantly, it minimizes fabric waste by creating near-net-shape products. The seamless garments that are made with this technology offer superior comfort and fit. 3D woven fabrics can provide improved breathability, moisture management, and support. Also it can help create complex shapes and intricate patterns that directly on the loom.
Innovations
Multi-layer fabrics: 3D weaving can produce fabrics with multiple layers, each with different properties or materials. This allows the creation of garments with integrated functions, such as moisture-wicking inner layers and abrasion-resistant outer layers.
Complex shapes: 3D weaving creates seamless, three-dimensional shapes directly on the loom, reducing the need for cutting and sewing. This is particularly useful for producing complex components like shoe uppers, contoured cushions, and even medical implants.
Integrated functionality: This technology can integrate functional elements directly into the fabric, such as sensors, actuators, and electronic components. This has applications in areas like smart textiles, wearable technology, and medical devices.
Applications
3D weaving is seeing numerous applications. In fashion, it leads to seamless garments, complex shapes, and intricate textures for high-end fashion and sportswear. In technical textiles it creates lightweight and strong composites for aerospace, automotive, and construction industries. In medical space, it helps in producing implants, prosthetics, and customized support structures with biocompatible materials. The technology is being used to produce sports equipment like helmets, protective gear, and footwear with enhanced performance and comfort.
Indeed, 3D weaving also has certain limitations. One major one is cost as 3D weaving technology is currently more expensive than traditional weaving. Production speed is another bane as 3D weaving can be slower than traditional methods, especially for complex designs. Limited material selection is also an issue as not all yarns are suitable for 3D weaving. What’s more designing 3D woven fabrics requires specialized skills and software.
While 3D weaving can create near-net-shape garments, it's not always a completely "yarn to apparel" process. Some finishing steps, such as minor trimming or the addition of closures, might be required. However, it significantly reduces the reliance on traditional cut-and-sew methods, streamlining production and minimizing waste. But the fact is, 3D weaving has the potential to reduce excess clothing in several ways. First, it helps in on-demand manufacturing which means producing garments only when needed that minimizes overstocking and waste. It also helps in customization and encourages consumers to invest in longer-lasting, personalized garments instead of disposable fashion. The seamless construction and high-performance materials increase garment lifespan. And 3D woven fabrics from recyclable materials can be more easily repurposed or broken down for reuse.
Startips, brands show the way
Many startups and brands are exploring the potential of 3D weaving. For example, Ministry of Supply, uses 3D knitting technology to create seamless, responsive apparel. Similarly, Unspun develops custom-fit jeans using 3D weaving technology. Twine Solutions offers innovative 3D weaving solutions for technical textiles and composites.
While still in its early stages of adoption, some apparel brands are incorporating 3D weaving into their production. Adidas for example utilized 3D knitting for its Future craft footwear line. And Nike employed Flyknit technology (a form of 3D knitting) in various footwear and apparel products.
Indeed 3D weaving is a promising technology with the potential to transform various industries, including fashion. While challenges remain in terms of cost and scalability, ongoing innovations and increasing adoption suggest a bright future in textile and apparel sector. As R&S continue, more creative and impactful applications of 3D weaving are expected to emerge in future.
