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EURATEX Director General pitches "New Business Model" at textile conference at Yogyakarta, Indonesia
The global textile and apparel value chain is at a critical juncture, requiring a fundamental shift in its operating philosophy. This was the core message delivered by Dirk Vantyghem, Director General of the European Apparel and Textile Confederation (EURATEX), during his presentation at the recent joint conference by the International Textile Manufacturers Federation (ITMF) and the International Apparel Federation (IAF) in Yogyakarta, Indonesia.
Vantyghem’s address, which outlined EURATEX's perspective, introduced a "new business model" as a vital guide for the industry through its current turbulent period of economic volatility and intense regulatory change.
The five pillars of change
The presentation highlighted five key takeaways that underscore the necessity for this new model, moving beyond traditional production-focused paradigms:
1. Fragile sustainability business case: Despite widespread industry investment in sustainability initiatives, the commercial viability is often undermined by global over-capacities in virgin fibres and garments, driving prices unsustainably low. Vantyghem stressed that a 'smart regulatory framework' is essential, one that is properly controlled and globally implemented to level the playing field.
2. Regulatory harmony is crucial: To avoid inefficiency and competitive distortion, the Director General called for urgent regulatory dialogue and convergence. He pointed to inconsistencies, such as the potential for two parallel Digital Product Passports (DPPs) and different definitions of textile waste, as major roadblocks. The post-conference fringes reportedly saw some positive movement on this front.
3. Fair Trade over Free Trade: While EURATEX remains committed to open markets, the call was strong for trade to be fair and reciprocal. Vantyghem argued that existing free trade agreements must be re-evaluated and re-balanced to ensure a level playing field for European manufacturers.
4. The 'Ecosystem' approach: A recurring theme across the entire conference, noted by Vantyghem, was the overwhelming consensus on the need for an "ecosystem" approach—working in broader partnerships across the value chain. Achieving this, however, requires a significant shift in existing business mentality.
5. Direct dialogue with Consumers: A strong call was made for manufacturers to engage in more direct dialogue and storytelling with the consumer. This strategy aims to reduce dependency on major brands' images and allow companies' efforts in innovation and sustainability to be directly recognised.
A renewed focus for Europe
Sharing the stage with global textile experts, Vantyghem acknowledged that the conference provided a vital perspective on the challenges facing the European industry.
The final message was clear: European manufacturers must respond to global pressures by investing in innovation, high quality, and niche products. While remaining vigilant about threats from global competition and market turbulence, the continent's industry must maintain confidence in its core strengths of advanced technology and high-value production.
H&M Move has launched its most elevated ski collection, blending high-fashion aesthetics with technical performance for the slopes and après-ski.
The collection was developed in partnership with the renowned ski design experts at Grand Studio. A few of its select garments include built-in Recco reflections, a rescue technology that makes wearers searchable by professional rescue teams in case of an avalanche or if they get lost. The collection utilizes H&M Move's trademarked performance fabrics including StormMove, which is dsigned to be windproof, waterproof, and breathable; ThermoMove, a fabric engineered for heat-retention to provide warmth and Fleece SoftMove, used for comfortable layers.
The garment pieces in the collection feature practical elements like snow gaiters, goggle wipes, and ski pass pockets. The range offers a full system of gear, including technical outerwear (jackets and pants), bold ski suits and one-pieces, 2-layer and 3-layer shell jackets, 100 per cent Merino base layers and accessories like embellished goggles and furry leg warmers.
The collection embraces a sophisticated palette of deep aubergine purple, rich coffee bean brown, pale burgundy, and creamy neutrals.Its designs showcase bold, sculptural shapes and clean lines. A few of the notable items in this collection include a workwear-inspired ski set, a quilted jacket with a sculptural collar, and a metallic-studded ski jacket.
The offers pieces that transition seamlessly from the slopes to the chalet, including items like a faux leather-inspired ski suit and snug, quilted liners.
The collection offers ranges for Women, Men, and Kids (often with ‘Mini-Me’ versions offering full mountain-ready functionality.
Gildan Activewear registered a 2.2 per cent Y-o-Y growth in net sales to $911 million in Q3, FY25. This was in line with their low single-digit growth guidance.
Their adjusted diluted EPS rose significantly by 17.6 per cent to a record $1.00, beating market expectations. Adjusted operating margin reached a record high of 23.2 per cent, an 80 basis point improvement, primarily driven by lower manufacturing costs and favorable pricing.
The company’s gross margins improved by 250 basis points to 33.7 per cent of net sales, mainly due to lower manufacturing costs and favorable pricing.
Crocs, Inc reported a 6.2 per cent Y-o-Y decline in consolidated revenues to $996 million in Q3, FY25.
This overall drop was largely driven by a significant slowdown in the HeyDude brand, whose revenues plummeted by 21.6 per cent to $160 million. The weakening of the HeyDude brand was primarily concentrated in the wholesale channel, which saw a steep decrease of 38.6 per cent, though its direct-to-consumer (DTC) revenues only dipped slightly by 0.5 per cent.
The flagship Crocs brand also contributed to the overall revenue slump, with sales decreasing by 2.5 per cent to $836 million, particularly with an 8.8 per cent decline in the North American region.
The company's overall wholesale revenues across both brands decreased by a sharp 14.7 per cent, in contrast to a modest 1.6 per cent growth in its DTC channel. Crocs' cited cautious consumer spending, particularly among lower-income consumers, and increased competition from athletic brands as factors impacting performance. Looking ahead, the company has projected a continued revenue decline in Q4, FY25, anticipating an approximate 8 per cent decline with HeyDude sales expected to fall by a further mid-20 per cent.
Cotton production in India is forecast to reach 25 million 480-lb bales, cultivated across approximately 11.4 million hectare with an average yield of 477 kg per hectare.
Government initiatives have further strengthened the industry’s growth. The Pradhan Mantri Mega Integrated Textile Region and Apparel Parks Scheme aims to create seven world-class textile parks equipped with modern infrastructure and integrated value chains.
Notably, the first park in Madhya Pradesh has already attracted Rs 20,746 crore in investments, positioning it as India’s largest textile hub. Additionally, the temporary suspension of the 11 per cent import duty on cotton, effective from August 19 to September 30, 2025, is expected to support
Columbia Sportswear Company registered a 1 per cent Y-o-Y increase in net sales to $943.4 million in Q3, FY25. This slight rise was attributed primarily to the timing of wholesale shipments, which added roughly $30 million, but was largely offset by weaker direct-to-consumer (DTC) performance in the US market.
The company's international business provided the main momentum, with Europe-direct markets leading the gains with double-digit growth. This strong performance in the Europe, Middle East, and Africa (EMEA) region drove sales up 16 per cent to $164.5 million, reflecting successful engagement with younger consumers. The Latin America and Asia Pacific (LAAP) and Canada regions also reported growth. Conversely, US sales declined by 4 per cent.
Financially, the quarter saw a sharp drop in profitability. Their operating income declined by 40 per cent to $67.4 million, primarily due to $29 million in impairment charges related to the Prana and Mountain Hardwear brands. This led to a drop in net income to $52 million, or $0.95 per diluted share. The gross margin also contracted slightly to 50 per cent due to incremental tariffs and unfavorable exchange rates.
By brand, Sorel reported the highest growth in sales of 10 per cent while sales of the brand Columbia grew by only 1 per cent.
Tim Boyle, Chairman and CEO notes, international success validates the company’s growth strategy, while acknowledging the need to revitalize the Columbia brand in the US. The brand’s new ‘Engineered for Whatever’ platform aims to revive its irreverent spirit, he adds.
For the full year, Columbia forecasts, net sales are likely to decline by 1 per cent to $3.33–3.37 billion. Full-year diluted EPS is anticipated to be between $2.55 and $2.85, reflecting the one-time impairment charge. Looking ahead, the company projects an 8–5 per cent sales decline in Q4, FY25, heavily impacted by the shipment timing that benefited Q3.
At Paris Fashion Week, Stella McCartney once again blurred the line between fashion and science. Her latest innovation, denim that actively purifies the air marks a radical evolution in the sustainability narrative. In partnership with the material technology company Pure.tech, McCartney unveiled garments that don’t just minimize environmental harm; they repair it.
Debuting as part of her Summer 2026 collection, the new line showcased fabrics engineered to capture and neutralize pollutants such as carbon dioxide (CO₂), nitrogen oxides (NOx), and volatile organic compounds (VOCs). The concept turns every wearer into a walking air filter transforming fashion from a passive consumer product into an active environmental participant.
Inside Pure.tech, turning fabric into a pollution filter
The brain behind Pure.tech Italian technologist Aldo Sollazzo, has developed a patented water-based slurry compound that can be applied to textiles through traditional processes such as foulard, padding, or coating. Once integrated, the treatment initiates a continuous process of catalysis and photocatalysis, breaking down toxic gases into harmless minerals.
Independent laboratory tests reveal striking efficiency: a mere 30-gm fabric sample can eliminate over 2,200 ppm of CO₂ in under 10 hours. In urban terms, that means a single jacket or pair of jeans could offset small-scale emissions in a city environment, while millions of such garments could meaningfully reduce air pollution levels. “This isn’t about reducing our footprint, it’s about reversing it,” McCartney said during the Paris launch. “We’ve always talked about sustainable fashion; this is regenerative fashion.”
The science of self-cleaning textiles
Behind the glamour of the runway lies a serious scientific backbone. The principles powering Pure.tech come from environmental engineering and nanotechnology, long applied in air-purifying paints and architectural coatings.
Photocatalysis: Often driven by compounds like titanium dioxide (TiO₂), photocatalysis uses light energy to generate electrons that break down pollutants. This reaction decomposes NOx and VOCs into inert compounds.
Catalysis: Here, the treated fabric acts as a catalyst, boosting pollutant breakdown without being consumed and allowing garments to maintain their functionality over time. These hybrid reactions create a regenerative loop, allowing clothing to operate as a low-maintenance, continuous air-cleansing system.
A growing movement, where textiles go beyond aesthetics
McCartney’s Pure.tech denim is the latest step in a broader shift toward functional sustainability, where materials don’t just avoid damage they deliver benefits. Several earlier experiments have paved the way for this new generation of ‘pollution-eating’ fashion.
Catalytic clothing project (2008)
A collaboration between the London College of Fashion and the University of Sheffield, this initiative applied photocatalytic titanium dioxide coatings to fabrics via laundry processes. The vision was simple yet bold, transform everyday garments into urban air purifiers activated by light.
Post Carbon Lab’s living algae fabrics
London-based Post Carbon Lab developed textiles infused with photosynthetic micro-organisms like algae. As wearers move, the living coating absorbs CO₂ and releases oxygen, mimicking the respiration of plants. The studio claims a single treated T-shirt can produce as much oxygen as a young oak tree.
Airlite, McCartney’s earlier experiment
In her Winter 2024 collection, McCartney used Airlite coating on her iconic Falabella tote bags. The semiconductor-based technology generates a surface charge that produces negative ions, neutralizing pollutants in contact with the bag an early glimpse of the direction her brand would later take to scale the idea into apparel.
Fashion’s new frontier, regenerative luxury
The introduction of Pure.tech denim and Fevvers, a plant-based alternative to feathers, marks an important moment in McCartney’s journey, and potentially, for fashion itself. Her approach exemplifies the next stage of sustainable design: from carbon-neutral to carbon-negative. This shift aligns with a larger industry trend. Global luxury and performance brands are investing heavily in bioengineered materials, circular manufacturing, and climate-positive textiles. Analysts predict that the regenerative fashion market could grow from a niche innovation sector into a $20 billion global opportunity by 2030, as consumer demand for climate-conscious luxury accelerates. “We are entering an era where clothes are not just worn, they work,” says Sollazzo. “When the surface of your jeans helps purify the air you breathe, fashion becomes infrastructure.”
Toward a smarter, cleaner wardrobe
The implications go far beyond aesthetics or personal branding. Imagine urban networks of wearers, each garment quietly filtering carbon and nitrogen compounds as people go about their day. Scaled up, such technology could complement existing clean-air initiatives, from green roofs to low-emission zones.
What began as a creative experiment on the Paris runway could soon evolve into a scalable environmental solution transforming fashion into a distributed system of micro air purifiers. As Stella McCartney’s Pure.tech denim highlights, the most powerful trends in fashion are no longer about hemlines or hues they’re about how fabric interacts with the planet itself.
Borre Hegbom has been appointed as the Senior Vice President, Global Head, Helly Hansen by Kontoor Brands
Hegbom will be responsible for executing the strategic plan designed to accelerate growth across the entire Helly Hansen business, globally leading both the Sport and Workwear categories. He joins Kontoor Brands' Executive Leadership Team and will report directly to Scott Baxter, President, CEO, and Chairman of the Board of Directors.
Hegbom brings more than two decades of experience with Helly Hansen, most recently serving as Managing Director, Sport. During his tenure, he was credited with leading significant growth in the Sport category and helping establish Helly Hansen as a rising force in the outdoor and performance apparel market.
Baxter added, with Kontoor's global platforms and capabilities supporting the brand, there are ‘significant opportunities ahead - from US market expansion and unlocking new distribution channels to product innovation and category expansion. He looks forward to partnering with Hegbom to capitalize on the brand's strong momentum to accelerate growth and deliver long-term value for shareholders.
Kontoor Brands, Inc. is a purpose-led organization that manages a portfolio of iconic lifestyle, outdoor, and workwear brands: Wrangler, Lee, and Helly Hansen.
Calvin Klein has rolled out the Re-Calvin takeback program in the US, making it easy for consumers to responsibly dispose of clothing from any brand and in virtually any condition.
The program is powered by the trade-in technology platform Trove and logistics partner Debrand. It will sort items for reuse, recycling, or responsible disposal. Crucially, Re-Calvin accepts categories usually excluded from takeback initiatives, such as bras, swimwear, and underwear.
To add transparency, consumers get an email update after their parcel is processed, detailing exactly how their items were routed.
David Savman, Global Brand President, Calvin Klein, avers, as Calvin Klein continues its sustainability journey, it has introduced a program that makes circularity more accessible for customers and delivers alternative uses for pre-loved items.
The Re-Calvin program uses Trove’s Takeback Plug-In, which seamlessly manages item intake, routing, and transparency by integrating directly with the existing US Calvin Klein website.
Circular commerce is becoming a huge part of the consumer shopping experience, even for gifts. Data from Salesforce suggests, that 47 per cent of US consumers are likely to gift a secondhand item this holiday season. This trend is expected to generate an impressive $64 billion in resale-generated holiday sales.
A growing number of brands are deploying their own circularity programs. Brands like DXL, Uniqlo, Figs, Sanctuary, and Babylist have launched resale programs. Peloton began a three-city test of a resale program in June 2025.
Trove acquired resale platform Recurate in August 2024. In October 2024, Patagonia began using Trove’s Resale Plugin to integrate pre-owned items alongside new products on its main e-commerce platform. Luggage brand Béis also launched its resale program using the Trove platform in October 2024.
Major baby apparel retailer, Carter’s Inc is undertaking significant operational cuts to combat the financial pressures stemming from previously introduced import tariffs. The company announced plans to close 150 stores across North America by 2028, revising its closure target upward from an initial plan of 100. These closures, which impact stores collectively contributing around $110 million in annual net sales, are scheduled to take place this fiscal year and in 2026.
In addition to the store closures, Carter’s is streamlining its corporate structure, intending to reduce its office-based workforce by 300 employees by the end of the current year. The company estimates the annual gross pre-tax impact of the additional import duties could range between $200 million and $250 million.
The strategic announcements coincided with the release of the company’s fiscal third-quarter earnings report. While the brand’s net sales declined by 0.1 per cent to $757.8 million, the company’s operating income took a massive hit, dropping 62.2 per cent to $29.1 million. Consequently, the operating margin shrank from 10.2 per cent a year earlier to just 3.8 per cent. Net income for the quarter plummeted to $11.6 million from $58.3 million, or $1.62 per diluted share, in the prior year.
Douglas Palladini, CEO and President, noted, while US retail business demand improved with positive comparable sales, elevated product costs, in part due to the impact of higher tariffs, as well as additional investment, weighed meaningfully on their profitability.
To mitigate future tariff risks, Carter's has drastically shifted its sourcing strategy, with countries like Vietnam, Cambodia, Bangladesh, and India set to account for 75 per cent of its product sourcing spend in FY25, while China’s share is expected to drop to less than 3 per cent. Due to the ongoing uncertainty surrounding the tariff impact, Carter’s has currently suspended its fiscal 2025 guidance.
