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Marking a significant commitment to environmental, social and governance (ESG) responsibility, Italian luxury brand Canali has released its inaugural Sustainability Report.Created according to the Global Reporting Initiative (GRI) Sustainability Reporting Standards, the report highlights Canali’s dedication to integrating sustainable practices into its renowned craftsmanship.
With this report, Canali aims to balance its storied heritage with responsible innovation, reducing its environmental footprint and promoting long-term sustainable growth. Central to these efforts is the CAre project, launched in 2023, which brings all of Canali’s sustainability initiatives under one umbrella. Led by a dedicated Sustainability Committee, CAre reflects the brand’s commitment to continually enhancing its environmental and social practices, while ensuring strong governance.
Since 2021, Canali has embraced the Organisation Environmental Footprint (OEF) and Product Environmental Footprint (PEF) methodologies, tools recommended by the European Union to precisely measure environmental impact. These methodologies guide Canali in identifying areas for improvement and enacting meaningful changes across its operations. Producing exclusively in Italy, the brand not only minimises its carbon footprint but also honors Italian artisanal excellence.
Stefano Canali, President and CEO, Canali Group, remarks, this first Sustainability Report is a testament to the brand’s dedication to continuous improvement. The group is committed to elevating its environmental and social responsibility standards in alignment with the highest international guidelines to drive meaningful progress.
Kamran Arshad, Chairman, All Pakistan Textile Mills Association (APTMA), has urged Pakistan’s Monetary Policy Committee to reduce interest rates by 400 basis points to support the textile sector and boost exports.
Currently at an effective rate of 10.6 per cent, high borrowing costs are hampering the industry’s growth Arshad highlights. Emphasising on the need for immediate action, he notes, while inflation has eased to 6.9 per cent, the interest rate remains high at 17.5 per cent, creating significant challenges for the sector.
Lower interest rates are essential for economic recovery and job creation as the current rates continue to threaten the textile industry’s stability, Arshad argues. Reducing interest rates is crucial for economic revival and expanding employment opportunities,adds.
Earlier this week, Finance Minister Muhammad Aurangzeb indicated that the State Bank of Pakistan (SBP) might consider further interest rate cuts during the upcoming Monetary Policy meeting on November 4. The SBP has already reduced its benchmark rate by 450 basis points across three consecutive meetings, bringing it down from a peak of 22 per cent to 17.5 per cent.
Meanwhile, the government is pursuing a broader economic strategy aimed at increasing its tax share by up to 135 per cent. APTMA’s call for an interest rate reduction underscores the need for policy adjustments to support Pakistan’s textile industry and strengthen its export competitiveness.
Australia faces significant challenges with textile waste, as over 90 percent of discarded clothes have the potential to be reused or recycled. Yet, alarmingly, only 7 per cent of textiles are actually recycled, while approximately 50 per cent of household textile waste ends up in landfills. This mismanagement represents a considerable loss of valuable resources, emphasizing the urgent need for a shift towards a circular economy.
A recent study led by Alice Payne from RMIT University's School of Fashion & Textiles sought to investigate why Australians dispose of clothing irresponsibly. Funded by the Queensland Government and Kmart Group, this research is the first of its kind in Australia, aiming to gather data that could influence better waste management and consumer habits. The findings will be shared in a panel discussion at the Global Sourcing Expo, set for November 19-21, 2024, in Melbourne.
The scale of the problem
Marie Kinsella, CEO of the International Expo Group, points out that Australians rank among the world’s highest clothing consumers, with over 200,000 tonnes of clothing disposed of in landfills each year. She stresses the urgent need for waste reduction and the establishment of a robust circular economy. This view aligns with Alice’s research, highlighting the critical role of sustainable practices within the fashion and textile industry.
To understand Australian-specific clothing disposal behaviors, the research team conducted ten in-depth interviews with key stakeholders across the clothing value chain. These interviews identified critical data gaps, particularly regarding consumers' disposal habits and the influences behind their decisions to discard wearable versus unwearable clothing. Following these insights, a nationwide survey of 3,080 participants was conducted, ensuring representation across various demographics and regions.
One of the most surprising outcomes of the study is the revelation that age significantly influences clothing use and disposal behaviors. Contrary to initial assumptions, geographic location played a less impactful role. Older Australians tend to maintain smaller wardrobes and donate unwanted clothing more frequently, while younger consumers engage in diverse circular practices like clothing repairs and reselling. However, they also demonstrate a tendency to discard wearable items, indicating a need for targeted interventions across different age groups.
Confusion surrounding disposal options
A notable finding reveals that many Australians lack clarity on how to responsibly discard clothing. Approximately 32 per cent of respondents occasionally throw clothes into general waste, with 24 per cent placing them in home recycling bins. This highlights the pressing need for a national collection system for unwearable clothing, alongside trusted recycling pathways. “Clothing should remain in use for as long as possible,” Alice asserts, advocating for materials to be redirected towards recycling rather than ending up as waste.
The survey identified three distinct Australian consumer personas, which can guide the development of targeted behavior-change campaigns promoting sustainable clothing practices. These insights provide a valuable foundation for ongoing research into clothing use and disposal in Australia. The potential for repeated surveys enables tracking shifts in consumer behavior over time, ultimately contributing to a circular economy.
Conclusion: A collaborative path forward
To drive systemic change, Alice underscores the importance of collaboration among industry stakeholders, government bodies, and research organizations. She explains that utilizing these findings will help monitor Australia’s progress toward a circular economy. Ongoing measurement and analysis of consumer behavior will set benchmarks for improvement and identify areas needing further attention. Addressing textile waste in Australia is a shared responsibility, requiring active involvement from consumers, brands, and policymakers.
Jemmy Kartiwa Sastratmaja, Chair of the Indonesian Textile Association (API), attributed Sritex's bankruptcy to the global economic slowdown, which has led to a rise in Chinese textile products flooding the Indonesian market. He noted that rising inflation and interest rates worldwide have diminished purchasing power in key markets like the United States and the European Union, exacerbating the situation for local producers.
On October 23, 2024, the Commercial Court of Semarang City declared Sritex (SRIL) bankrupt, following a creditor's request to cancel its suspension of debt payment obligations. Haruno Patriadi, the court's spokesperson, confirmed the decision, which was led by presiding judge Muhammad Anshar Majid, and appointed a curator to manage the case.
In response to these challenges, Indonesia and several other countries are implementing trade barriers to protect their domestic industries from the influx of foreign products, aiming to stabilize local markets affected by the oversupply from major producers like China. Sritex, a prominent player in Indonesia's textile sector since 1966, now faces significant restructuring challenges.
India has imposed anti-dumping duties on five Chinese imports, including sulphur black and thermoplastic polyurethane, to shield domestic industries from cheap imports. Effective for five years, the duties cover isopropyl alcohol, sulphur black, cellophane transparent film, thermoplastic polyurethane, and unframed glass mirrors. The Central Board of Indirect Taxes and Customs issued separate notifications confirming the duties.
Sulphur black, commonly used in textile dyeing, leather, and paper, now faces up to $389 per tonne in duty, as total imports of this product reached $4.3 million in 2023-24. Duties have also been applied to products like cellophane transparent film, used in packaging, with a tariff of $1.34 per kg on imports worth approximately $60 million last fiscal year.
The Directorate General of Trade Remedies (DGTR), India's investigative arm, recommended these measures, finding Chinese imports underpriced and damaging to local players. Following further probes, the DGTR has initiated investigations into additional Chinese imports, including acrylonitrile butadiene rubber and cold-rolled electrical steel, based on concerns from domestic firms.
India’s anti-dumping measures align with World Trade Organization (WTO) guidelines, promoting fair competition and supporting the domestic textile sector. China remains India’s second-largest trade partner, yet India’s trade deficit with China hit $85 billion in 2023-24. The duties aim to balance this gap, leveling the field for Indian manufacturers against low-cost imports from China.
Karl Mayer Group has crafted an advanced training program tailored for flat knitting training courses in November and December 2024. This includes two specialized courses from KM.ON and Stoll: an online Create Design course and an in-house Create Plus course for M1plus users.
Create Design, running on December 5-6, 2024, focuses on digital design-to-market skills. It guides designers with basic flat-knit knowledge through efficient digital workflows, covering knitting structures, digital yarn usage, and exporting for 3D apparel programs. Small class sizes of up to 10 participants allow for immersive learning, with coach Goran Sidjimovski emphasizing hands-on training.
The CreatePlus course, scheduled in German from November 4-8 and in English from November 18-22, is a five-day in-person session exploring the new Create Plus software. Participants delve into techniques such as jacquard, intarsia, and multi-gauge knitting while learning advanced pattern creation and fully fashioned shaping.
Additionally, a new e-learning course on flat knitting basics is now available anytime and free, targeting fashion and textile newcomers. This self-paced module covers core techniques over six chapters and serves as an entry point for those interested in digital knitwear design.
After a prolonged 35-year legal struggle, the Gujarat High Court approved the sale of Aryoday Spinning & Weaving Mills Co Ltd’s 58,000-square-yard land in Ahmedabad’s Asarwa area for Rs 82 crore. This decision followed a protracted process, during which more than 60 per cent of the mill’s 3,285 workers died awaiting compensation after the mill’s 1989 bankruptcy.
Devbhoomi Agrifresh Pvt Ltd., seeking to buy the land, intervened after objections by other bidders delayed the proceedings. Advocate Dhimant Vasavada, representing the Textile Labour Association, stated that only Rs 55 lakh had been distributed to workers from prior sales of the mill's machinery, with most workers still awaiting their dues.
Justice Mauna Bhatt approved Devbhoomi Agrifresh’s bid, citing the court’s discretion to act in the best interests of secured creditors and the prolonged wait endured by workers. The court's decision marked the fifth attempt to sell the land at a fair price since 2016. The liquidation process, delayed by decades, highlighted the severe toll on workers who were denied timely justice and compensation.
The latest apparel trade data for August 2024, as analyzed by Wazir Advisors in their monthly ‘Apparel trade scenario in keyglobal marketsand India’, highlights a global market that is still recovering from the disruptions of the past few years. While some key markets showed signs of growth, others experienced declines, revealing the ongoing challenges and uncertainties in the industry.
Apparel imports adivergent landscape
The performance of major apparel importing nations in August 2024 was uneven. The US for example, a major market, maintained its import levels at $7.8 billion, indicating no year-to-year change. This indicates that the US apparel market remains relatively stable. However, other markets experienced fluctuations.
The European Union saw a 10 per cent increase in apparel imports, reaching $9.0 billion, suggesting growing demand for apparels in the region. In contrast, the United Kingdom and Japan recorded import decline, with decreases of 6 pr cent and 8 per cent, respectively. This highlight the varying economic conditions and consumer sentiments across different countries.
China's dominance continues in apparel exports
China, the world's largest apparel exporter, maintained its position in August 2024. Despite a slight 5 per cent decline in exports to $13 billion, China's dominance in the global apparel market remains unchallenged.
India, another major player in the apparel export market, experienced no significant change in exports, remaining at $1.1 billion. However, the overall Indian apparel exports are projected to reach $15 billion in 2024, a growth of 5-7 per cent compared to the previous year. This indicates a positive outlook for India's apparel industry.
Mixed signals in apparel retail
The retail landscape also reflected mixed trends. In the US, apparel store sales were estimated 1per cent higher in September 2024 compared to the same period in 2023. This suggests a modest increase in consumer spending on apparel. Home furnishing store sales witnessed a more substantial growth of 15 per cent, indicating a rising interest in home decor and renovation. Also, for last several quarters, major retailers have reported lower inventory levels compared to sameperiod in the previous year. These retailers include GAP, Walmart, Target, Kohl’s among others.
In the United Kingdom, apparel store sales rose by 5 per cent in September 2024, indicating a stronger demand for clothing. However, the US Consumer Confidence Index declined by 4 per cent in September, suggesting some uncertainty among consumers. Which means consumers may be cautious about spending despite improving economic conditions.
Overall, the Wazir Advisors report indicates global apparel trade in August 2024 was a mix of positive and negative developments. While some markets experienced growth, others faced challenges. The overall recovery process continues to be uneven, due to factors such as economic conditions, consumer sentiment, and geopolitical events. As the industry navigates these complexities, it remains to be seen how the global apparel market will evolve in the coming months.
K-pop star and a member of the Blackpink Group, Jisoo has been named as the new global ambassador by US-based fashion brand Tommy Hilfigerfor its Fall 2024 campaign. The brand has launched a campaign video showcasing the idol-actress wearing modernised prep classics from its fall 2024 collection.
In her campaign pictures on social media, Jisoo is seen wearing a Breton-striped cardigan, wool coats, and denim skirt pieces from the upcoming fall collection. According to her, the brand’s style resonates with her own personal style as it blends femininity with modern sensitivity in its latest collection.
Speaking about Jisso, Hilfiger affirms, with the K-pop star’s confidence and calmness reflected in her unique style, Jisoo fits perfectly with the brand’s expectations. She proves to be the ‘ideal’ ambassador for their prep classics collection, he adds.
Mountains of discarded clothes, overflowing land fills, and polluted waterways bear witness to global textile and apparel industry's unsustainable practices. Textile waste, a by product of our insatiable appetite for fast fashion, is a growing environmental crisis. However, amidst this concerning scenario, a new thread of hope is emerging: textile waste recycling. This burgeoning field offers a promising solution to reduce landfill waste, conserve resources, and create a more circular economy.
Role of recycling to control a looming crisis
Every year, the world generates a staggering amount of textile waste enough to fill the Sydney Opera House every 20 minutes. As per the Ellen MacArthur Foundation, over 92 million tonnes of textile waste are produced annually, equivalent to a garbage truck full of clothes ending up in landfills every second. This waste, primarily composed of synthetic fibers derived from petroleum is not just an eyesore; it's a significant environmental hazard. The problem is particularly acute in developed countries, where fast fashion trends and consumerism fuel a relentless cycle of production and disposal.
Textile waste recycling presents a powerful antidote to this crisis. By diverting textile waste from landfills, the world can conserve precious resources. Recycling reduces the volume of textile waste ending up in landfills, mitigating pollution and conserving space. Recycling reduces the demand for virgin materials like cotton and polyester, lessening the environmental burden of their production. Pollution can be reduced as landfills leach harmful chemicals and generate methane, a potent greenhouse gas. Recycling helps mitigate these environmental hazards. What’s more it will create economic opportunities. Textile recycling fosters innovation and creates jobs in collection, sorting, processing, and manufacturing recycled textiles.
Table: Textile waste generation
Region Textile waste generation (mn tons) Recycling rate (%) Global 92 12 European Union 16 25 United States 17 15 China 20 10 India 5 20
A patchwork of policies
Recognizing the urgency of the textile waste crisis, governments worldwide are beginning to implement regulations and policies to promote textile recycling and reduce landfill waste. However, a globally harmonized approach is still lacking, resulting in a patchwork of regulations that vary significantly across countries and regions.
Table: Regulations across regions and countries
Region/Country Regulation/Initiative Description European Union Waste Framework Directive Sets targets for textile waste recycling and promotes extended producer responsibility (EPR) schemes. France AGEC Law Bans the destruction of unsold textiles and mandates separate collection of textile waste. Germany Textile Recycling Act Requires producers to finance the collection and recycling of textile waste. United States No federal legislation Several states have implemented EPR programs for textiles, and initiatives like the Sustainable Apparel Coalition are driving industry-led efforts. Japan Container and Packaging Recycling Law Includes provisions for recycling certain textile products. Australia National Waste Policy Focuses on waste reduction and resource recovery, including textiles.
Governments around the world are recognizing the urgency of the textile waste problem and are implementing regulations to promote recycling and reduce landfill waste.
Extended Producer Responsibility (EPR): EPR schemes hold producers responsible for the end-of-life management of their products, including textiles. This encourages manufacturers to design for recyclability and invest in recycling infrastructure. The EU Waste Framework Directive mandates EPR for textiles by 2025, while similar legislation is gaining traction in Canada and several US states.
Landfill Bans and Taxes: Several countries have imposed bans or taxes on textile waste disposal in landfills, incentivizing recycling and reuse. Italy, for example, has banned textile waste from landfills since 2016.
Minimum Recycled Content Requirements: Some jurisdictions are exploring regulations that mandate a minimum percentage of recycled content in new textile products. This would create a market demand for recycled fibers and encourage investment in recycling technologies.
Meanwhile, many initiatives across the globe are driving progress in textile waste recycling. Brand take-back program is one of them. Many clothing brands are launching take-back programs, allowing consumers to return old or unwanted garments for recycling or reuse. Patagonia's Worn Wear program and H&M's Garment Collecting initiative are notable examples. To add to it, organizations like the Sustainable Apparel Coalition and the Ellen MacArthur Foundation are fostering collaboration across the textile value chain to promote circularity and scale up recycling efforts. Also, innovations in sorting, fiber separation, and reprocessing technologies are making textile recycling more efficient and cost-effective.
Despite the growing momentum, textile waste recycling faces significant challenges. For example, many garments are made from blended fibers, making them difficult to recycle using conventional methods. Textile waste is often contaminated with dyes, finishes, and other impurities, requiring costly and complex pre-processing. Then the infrastructure for collecting, sorting, and processing textile waste remains inadequate in many regions. The economics of textile recycling can be challenging, as the cost of recycling often exceeds the value of the recovered materials.
A business opportunity
Despite the challenges, textile waste recycling presents significant business opportunities. First, companies that can efficiently recycle textile waste into high-quality fibers can tap into a growing market for sustainable materials. Brands can also create closed-loop systems by incorporating recycled fibers into their products, reducing their reliance on virgin materials and enhancing their sustainability credentials. Efficient collection and sorting systems are crucial for the success of textile recycling, creating opportunities for waste management companies and technology providers. And creative entrepreneurs are finding innovative ways to upcycle and repurpose textile waste into new products, from fashion accessories to home décor.
The moot point is that textile waste recycling is not just an environmental imperative; it is also a business opportunity and a catalyst for innovation. By embracing circularity and investing in recycling technologies, we can unravel the thread of waste and weave a more sustainable future for the textile industry and the planet.
