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The textile sector is the largest employer of industrial labor in Pakistan and accounts for over 60 per cent of the country’s exports. In the backdrop of a competitive regional landscape, with countries like Bangladesh and Vietnam having emerged as sizeable players on the global stage, Pakistan has to invest in the entire value chain of the textile sector on a priority basis, including innovative solutions for enhancing cotton yields.
Backward linkages where large industrial players integrate into corporate farming for cotton could be a potential model to explore in this regard. Another key area of focus is checking undocumented imports of textile and apparel products from China. Undocumented or under-valued imports of such products distort the local market dynamics making it impossible for local players across the whole value chain to compete.
Companies in textile and apparel segment say they are willing to make further investments if they receive the right support, including simplification of cumbersome processes and procedures through effective one-window facilitation. Exploring linkages with China, especially with the industry on China’s west coast that is closer to Pakistan in terms of physical distance, in the form of contract manufacturing of garments, could be a profitable venture. This strategy could be very important given the context of rising domestic consumption in China.
Lectra, the technological partner for companies using fabrics and leather, has launched its latest PLM solution, Lectra Fashion PLM 4.0. Boasting of several new features and tools, Lectra helps fashion companies to work in a smarter and more agile manner in an IT-friendly environment.
The latest PLM solution - Lectra Fashion PLM 4.0, has Lectra Easy Connect, a series of pre-configured connectors that allow the solution to interface with other IT systems such as ERP and CRM. These connectors ensure data integrity by facilitating a smooth and consistent flow of data between internal and external supply chain actors. Lectra has also enhanced connection to the design process by strengthening Adobe Illustrator integration via a new plug-in. It has enhanced the user experience by making its PLM solution highly configurable.
A star feature is Lectra Easy Configure, a tool that allows users to manage and organise data according to their own profile, company organisation and data structure to ensure easy and round-the-clock access. This enables companies to become more agile, as users can access and analyse their data whenever they need to, quickly and without technical hiccups. Lectra Fashion PLM 4.0 streamlines day-to-day activities via an updated interface with new search and notification functions, and a dynamic and configurable portfolio view that allows users to monitor and direct collections with the help of dynamic data display.
In its endeavor to become truly circular by 2030, H&M has opened a hydrothermal textile recycling plant in Hong Kong. The recycling method involves using heat, water and a blend of biodegradable chemicals to separate cotton and polyester from mixed fabrics. Once the fibers are separated, they can be sorted for reuse in new garments, including jeans.
The technology aims at overcoming the problem of recycling hard-to-recycle textile blends, which are the most widely-used fabrics globally. While the plant will initially be used by H&M only, the retailer will license the technology, so it can be used by other fashion manufacturers.
This method, which H&M calls garment-to-garment recycling, is expected to prevent the potential for chemical pollution finding its way into the environment while minimising carbon emissions and costs.
Alongside the garment-to-garment plant, H&M is showcasing a miniaturised version of the recycling technology at a pop-up H&M store in Hong Kong in a bid to educate customers about the importance of recycling. Customers are being encouraged to bring their unwanted or end-of-life clothing to the temporary store, where they will have the chance to see the technology first-hand.
The belief is when customers see with their own eyes what a valuable resource garments at the end of life can be, they can also believe in recycling and recognise the difference their actions can make.
Sensitive® Fabrics by Euro jersey for Fall/Winter 2019-20, will launch a new collection of versatile and multi-faceted fabrics ideally suited for a contemporary lifestyle. These technical and innovative fabrics have multifold applications. They have unique performing qualities such as impeccability in their fit, easy care, wrinkle free, breathable and able to follow each movement of the body in various activities all through the day, every shape is sculpted and comes to life in the form of iconic and multi-purpose garments.
The entire collection is underlined by digital printing, whose three-dimensional rendering interprets textural effects, thanks to innovative 3D print technology and special yarn dyed and délavé. For the latest technology, inspired by Massimo Osti's projects, the father of contemporary techno-fashion by experimenting innovative textile treatments, Eurojersey is presenting the garments' dyeing and cold washing technique onto Sensitive® Fabric.
The Cotton Association of India (CAI) has retained its cotton crop estimate for the ongoing crop year 2017-18 at 365 lakh bales of 170 kg each. Total cotton supply up to August 31, 2018, has been projected at 407.50 lakh bales. The stock at the end of August 2018, is estimated at 41.50 lakh bales including 30.40 lakh bales with textile mills while the remaining 11.10 lakh bales are estimated to be held by CCI and others (MNCs, traders, ginners, etc.).
The projected annual balance sheet for the season 2017-18 estimates total cotton supply till the end of the season (September 30, 2018), at 416 lakh bales of 170 kg each which includes an opening stock of 36 lakh bales at the beginning of the season.
CAI has estimated domestic consumption for the season at 324 lakh bales while exports are estimated at 70 lakh bales. The carryover stock at the end of the 2017-18 season is estimated at 22 lakh bales. Exports from India this year received a fillip thanks to the rupee depreciation. Pink bollworm infestation is influencing cotton production in India this year.
Italian jersey producer Brugnoli, has attained first place in Munich Fabric Start’s High Tex awards. Compared to conventional processes, Br4 technology by Brugnoli uses 20 per cent less water and energy. Brugnoli has been granted a double European patent for its Br4 technology: production process and fabric.
Cocccon secured second place at the fair for environmentally conscious production of luxurious textiles and innovative silk denim. Silkworms hatch by piercing and trimming the cocoon and are not killed in hot water as in conventional silk production. The fabrics, which come with an anti–allergic finish, are handwoven at a fair price and dyed without toxic chemicals.
The Reca Group was awarded third place for its process for avoiding product copies. The Italian specialist for packaging, cards as well as plastic and metal labels focuses on high–frequency embossing and printing on polyurethane. Depending on the perspective, different logotypes and colors are created.
Munich Fabric Start’s High Tex award supports and recognises the extensive and often costly commitment of innovative and creative companies in cooperation with innovative brands to set novel and sustainable product impulses. Companies are recognized for their overall strategic commitment with regard to resource–saving process solutions, innovative product development as well as process implementation and marketability.
Monarch, a leading supplier of high-end circular knitting machines, and BMSvision have entered into an agreement for the development, marketing, installation and service of a state-of-the-art Manufacturing Execution System (MES) for the circular knitting industry. The system, based on the BMSvision KnitMaster architecture, is marketed as MMS – Monarch Monitoring System.
The system automatically collects all production data and sends it to the MMS server for real-time analysis and reporting by using the LAN interface board of the Monarch machine. It has developed an additional interface with the LGL feeders on the machine providing real-time information of yarn tension and yarn consumption in the MMS monitoring application. Older machines or machines from any other brand are connected by means of one of BMSvision touch screen-based data collection terminals.
MMS is available in three versions: MMS Basic for machine monitoring; MMS Plus, which includes also a complete scheduling software module; MMS Advanced as the full option MES system. With this co-operation, Monarch wants to support its customers in their path to digital, paperless production and offer them customised solutions for better utilisation of its machines, as well as for increasing its overall equipment effectiveness (OEE).
A research team at Australian Science Agency CSIRO is launching a type of cotton with properties similar to synthetic materials. The team first delved into factors that determined the length, strength and thickness of cotton fibres. This was done by growing a range of different cotton plants, some with long, thin fibres and others with short, woolly fibers.
The motivating force behind their work is the microfiber pollution caused by the washing of synthetic materials like polyester and nylon. These are not biodegradable and so can have a serious impact on waterways. The team is harnessing latest tools in synthetic biology to develop next generation cotton fibres. Synthetics may be cheaper to produce and require less ironing but people prefer natural fibres as these don’t crease much or can be stretched. As per CSIRO statistics, synthetics comprised around 77 per cent of global fiber market in 2015.
"Pakistan has consistently got low rankings on Global Competitiveness Index. It ranked 115 out of 137 economies for 2017-18, compared with India (40), Iran (69), Sri Lanka (65), and Bangladesh (99). Pakistan needs to amplify exports competitiveness just the same way as East Asian economies, such as South Korea, Taiwan, Singapore and Hong Kong, successfully implemented export-led growth strategies. As per World Bank data, Chinese exports went up from $62.09 billion in 1990 to $2,097 billion in 2016, an average annual growth of 15.32 per cent. During the same period, the Chinese economy grew an average 9.63 per cent. Indian exports went up from $17.96 billion in 1990 to $264.40 billion in 2016 up by 11.82 per cent a year while Indian economy grew on average 6.59 per cent (World Bank data)."
Pakistan has consistently got low rankings on Global Competitiveness Index. It ranked 115 out of 137 economies for 2017-18, compared with India (40), Iran (69), Sri Lanka (65), and Bangladesh (99). Pakistan needs to amplify exports competitiveness just the same way as East Asian economies, such as South Korea, Taiwan, Singapore and Hong Kong, successfully implemented export-led growth strategies. As per World Bank data, Chinese exports went up from $62.09 billion in 1990 to $2,097 billion in 2016, an average annual growth of 15.32 per cent. During the same period, the Chinese economy grew an average 9.63 per cent. Indian exports went up from $17.96 billion in 1990 to $264.40 billion in 2016 up by 11.82 per cent a year while Indian economy grew on average 6.59 per cent (World Bank data). Between 1990-91 and 2016-17, Pakistan’s exports went up from $5.61 billion to $20.43 billion. Thus, in both these countries, high economic growth was reinforced by robust export growth. On the contrary, the Pakistani economy grew on average 4.5 per cent. During the 1990s, GDP grew 4.6 per cent a year. During the 2000s, the average economic growth marginally went up to 4.7 per cent. Between 2010-11 and 2016-17, economic growth decelerated to 4.3 per cent, according to the Pakistan Economic Survey data.
The figure clearly shows Pakistan’s export-to-GDP ratio has come down from 15.53 per cent in 1990 to 9.13 per
cent in 2016. As per World Bank data, during the 1990s, Pakistan’s average export-to-GDP ratio was 16.4 per cent, which fell to 14.35 per cent during the 2000s. Since 2010, the average export-to-GDP ratio has come down to 12.16 per cent. Pakistan’s current export-to-GDP ratio of 9.13 per cent is among the lowest in the region: Iran (22.40 per cent), China (19.64 per cent), India (19.17 per cent), Sri Lanka (21.44 per cent) and Bangladesh (16.64 per cent).
Implications on the country
Experts say, higher productivity means not only producing more output from the given resources but also producing products, which better satisfy customer needs. Export-led growth process must include decreasing dependence on traditional exports and increasing dependence on value-added manufactures, particularly those which have a high growth potential in international market. Having said that without improvement in productivity exports will find it difficult to successfully compete in foreign markets both in terms of price and quality. If the production function in exporting enterprises is not better than that in the enterprises producing for the domestic market, the export sector cannot serve as a catalyst for development.
Pakistan Economic Survey highlighted in 1989-90, the percentage share of primary products, semi manufactures, and manufactures in total exports was 20, 24, and 56 respectively. By the end of 2016-17, export composition had changed as follows: primary products 15 per cent, semi manufactures 12 per cent and manufactures 73 per cent. Although the share of the manufactured goods in total export basket has considerably gone up, the export of manufactured products is heavily dominated by commodity-based manufactures. In 2016-17, the share of textiles and clothing (T&C) in total export of manufactures was 67.21 per cent, followed by 3.94 per cent share of the leather sector.
Pakistan’s share in global textiles and clothing exports is only 1.83 per cent. On the other hand, the engineering sector, which accounts for nearly 60 per cent of global trade, accounts for merely 1.17 per cent of Pakistan’s total exports. The share of engineering products in total exports of China and India is 47 per cent and 23 per cent respectively.
Replacing handlooms with state-of-the art machinery will help the country gain significance globally. More than that, it’s the presence of entrepreneurship, which would aid in professional management, labour training, diffusion of decision-making within the enterprise, risk taking by venturing into new areas, or at least, experimenting with product design, and a total commitment to quality.
In five years , all of Arvind’s textile production will be outsourced and the focus will be on garments. Garmenting will be done in phases, from 10 per cent garment manufacture as of now it will go up to 30 or 40 per cent. The aim is to emerge as a major apparel brand across price points. Arvind intends to employ at least 5000 to 8000 women each in facilities in Jharkhand and Gujarat to produce apparel.
The new facilities in Ethiopia would focus on garmenting and offer duty-free access to European markets. This value addition will help Arvind become a one-stop shop. Running concurrent is Arvind’s desire to shift from cotton to manmade fiber, which is cheaper, more functional and dominant in the sportswear and athleisure segments that are the fastest growing in the garment industry.
From traditional textile businesses, Arvind will move to being a technology company led by intellectual property rights, designs and strategic relations with customers. The ROCE is expected to grow from the current ten per cent to 18 per cent by financial year 2022-23. A pruning of the brand portfolio is likely. Arvind retails some 20 foreign brands in India.
