FW
Techtextil and Texprocess 2024 concluded with resounding success, serving as the premier global platform for textile innovation. With 1,700 exhibitors from 53 countries and 38,000 visitors from 102 countries, the trade fairs experienced a remarkable 29 percent increase in visitor numbers.
Germany, Italy, France, Turkey, and the Netherlands emerged as the top visitor nations, while Germany, Italy, China, France, and Turkey led as the top exhibitor nations. Noteworthy contributions to the expansion of exhibitors came from countries such as Egypt, China, and Thailand, among others.
Driving industry transformation
In the midst of burgeoning AI technologies, evolving legislative mandates, and surging energy costs, Techtextil and Texprocess emerged as vital marketplaces for textile innovation. Detlef Braun, Member of the Executive Board at Messe Frankfurt GmbH, emphasized their significance, textile innovation for diverse industries thrives within the global scope and strength offered uniquely in Frankfurt.
With 75 percent of visitors representing various industries such as engineering, architecture, and medical development, the trade fairs facilitated extensive cross-networking opportunities. From the preliminary stages of Techtextil to the array of processing technologies showcased at Texprocess, international collaborations flourished, fostering innovation across sectors and paving the way for market-ready solutions.
Record-breaking edition of Techtextil
Celebrating its 20th anniversary, Techtextil witnessed a record-breaking edition, reaffirming its position as a dynamic hub for textile innovation. The global market for technical textiles, estimated at $225.99 billion in 2023, is poised for exponential growth, reaching $346.67 billion by 2030, according to Fortune Business Insights. Within the EU, technical textiles are driving demand across various sectors, including medicine, agriculture, and automotive.
Techtextil showcased a wide spectrum of high-tech textiles across 12 application areas, including innovative world-firsts such as recyclable insulating textiles and self-cooling textiles. Sustainability took center stage, with over 15 per cent of exhibitors presenting natural fibers and materials.
Voices from the industry
Key industry players expressed their satisfaction with the trade fairs. Holger Michael Steingraber from Freudenberg Performance Materials highlighted the significance of Techtextil as a global meeting place for technology exchange and partnership building. Amaury Sartorius from Klopman praised the enthusiastic response to their sustainable solutions.
Texprocess showcased cutting-edge machines, processes, and services for textile and apparel processing, addressing challenges such as digitalization and automation. Elgar Straub from VDMA Textile Care highlighted the trade fair's focus on future-oriented solutions.
Innovative solutions and AI integration
Texprocess offered a comprehensive range of solutions, including AI-integrated innovations that streamline manufacturing processes. Marta Maiandi from Orox Group emphasized Texprocess as a global platform for technology and partnership building.
Both trade fairs emphasized sustainable practices and recyclable solutions in alignment with upcoming legislative requirements. The increased focus on resource efficiency and recyclability was evident in the Econogy Finder, showcasing twice as many exhibitors committed to sustainable development goals.
Embracing the future
In an era of rapid technological advancement, Techtextil and Texprocess stand as beacons of innovation, driving industry transformation and fostering international collaboration. As the textile industry navigates evolving challenges, these trade fairs serve as catalysts for sustainable growth and global competitiveness.
Hong Kong Research Institute of Textiles and Apparel (HKRITA) garners recognition at the Edison Award 2024 and the 49th International Exhibition of Inventions Geneva, showcasing innovative advancements in textile technology.
In the realm of innovation and societal impact, the Hong Kong Research Institute of Textiles and Apparel (HKRITA) emerges as a frontrunner, clinching several prestigious international awards. Notable among these accolades are the Gold Award at the Edison Award 2024 and a series of medals.
Edison Award 2024: Revolutionizing comfort and recovery
In an innovative stride towards enhancing the quality of life for breast cancer survivors, HKRITA's Customised Comfort Bra to Aid Recovery from Mastectomy seized the Gold Award in the "Social & Cultural Impact (Health & Wellness)" category. This pioneering project introduces novel mastectomy bras featuring ergonomic design and 3D printing structure engineering. These bras, tailored to individual needs based on age, BMI, and body shape, offer unparalleled comfort and improved balance during the recovery phase. The meticulous judging process, focusing on concept, value, delivery, and impact, underscores the transformative potential of innovative textile solutions in addressing critical health challenges.
49th International Exhibition of Inventions Geneva: Redefining sustainability and efficiency
HKRITA's triumph extends beyond comfort innovation to encompass sustainability and efficiency in textile production and environmental stewardship. At the 49th International Exhibition of Inventions Geneva, HKRITA clinched an impressive array of awards, including two Gold Medals, one Silver Medal, and two Bronze Medals, showcasing its multifaceted commitment to innovation excellence.
Gold medal achievements
Dye Removal from Denim Textile Wastewater by a Combinative Adsorption and Regeneration System revolutionizes denim production by mitigating environmental and health risks associated with dye wastewater. Through an ingenious physiochemical system employing metal-doped alumina as an adsorbent, this project achieves efficient dye removal and regeneration, meeting denim production reuse standards at a reduced cost.
Fluorine-free and Bio-based Material for Durable Water and Oil Repellent fabrics pioneers a sustainable surface modification method, utilizing sea by-products and biopolymers to confer long-lasting water and oil repellency to textiles without harmful fluorinated compounds. This environmentally friendly approach ensures durability and efficacy, making it an ideal choice for outdoor apparel and industrial uniforms.
Silver medal achievement
A Lightweight Fabric-based Breathable Metamaterial for Low Frequency Noise Insulation introduces an innovative solution for noise control in industrial settings, utilizing breathable fabric metamaterials combined with energy adsorption coating to achieve effective low-frequency noise insulation. This lightweight and versatile material facilitates thermal control and heat dissipation, offering a sustainable and efficient solution for various applications.
Bronze medal achievements
Denim Fabric Cotton Recovery by Mechanical Warp Weft Separation pioneers AI-driven mechanical recycling systems to extract reusable indigo-dyed warp yarns from denim fabrics, minimizing waste and conserving resources without chemical intervention.
Design-thinking Creation of a Swelling-controllable Composite Tubular Fabric for Regenerative Agriculture presents an eco-friendly soil management system, utilizing biodegradable composite fabrics for irrigation, weed control, and nutrient preservation in agriculture, exemplifying HKRITA's commitment to sustainable development and innovation.
A vision for the future
Edwin Keh, Chief Executive Officer of HKRITA, emphasizes the institute's dedication to impactful research spanning diverse areas, including advanced textile products, material science, recycling, and environmental conservation. HKRITA's participation and triumph in these international competitions underscore its pivotal role in driving positive change and innovation in the global textile industry, paving the way for a sustainable and resilient future.
The Lenzing Group, a frontrunner in regenerated cellulose fibers, is set to award the Lenzing Young Scientist Award during the Dornbin Global Fiber Congress (GFC) from September 11 to 13, 2024. This prestigious award, accompanied by €5,000, aims to recognize bachelor's and master's students driving ecological advancements in the fiber and textile sector. With a submission deadline of June 30, 2024, the competition seeks innovative solutions to industry challenges.
Initiating this recognition for the third consecutive year, Lenzing endeavors to support budding researchers contributing to the field of fibers and textiles. By aligning with the Dornbirn-GFC, a platform fostering global knowledge exchange, the award underscores Lenzing's commitment to sustainability and innovation.
Students can compete across categories such as Fashion and Circular Economy, Alternative Raw Materials, Textile Recycling, and New Fiber Technologies, facing evaluation by esteemed industry experts.
Gert Kroner, Vice President Global Research at Lenzing, emphasizes the company's dedication to pioneering sustainable cellulose fibers and fostering a legacy for future generations. The initiative aims to inspire novel ideas and foster collaboration with the textile industry to address contemporary challenges.
Organized by the Austrian Fiber Institute, the Dornbirn GFC serves as a nexus for international discourse on fiber-related topics. Established in 1960, the Institute promotes market adoption of fibers and facilitates knowledge exchange among stakeholders. The GFC, in partnership with CIRFS, Brussels, focuses on pertinent themes such as fiber innovations, sustainability, and the circular economy, ensuring a robust platform for industry advancement.
American footwear and apparel giant, Skechers registered a robust 12.5 per cent Y-o-Y increase in overall sales, reaching $2.25 billion in Q1 FY24. This growth was propelled by a notable 15.2 per cent rise in international markets and a 7.8 per cent uptick in domestic sales.
The company’s wholesale operations expanded by 9.8 per cent during the quarter, contributing an additional $127.1 million to the sales figure. Noteworthy, the brand’s sales in the EMEA region grew by 11.5 per cent during the quarter.
Its sales in APAC rose by 15.3 per cent while sales in the AMER region increased by 5.9 per cent. Skecher’s wholesale volume grew by 9.9 per cent, while the average selling price remained steady, as per the brand.
Direct-to-consumer sales of the brand also soared by 17.3 per cent to $122.6 million during the quarter. This included a notable 62.4 per cent increase in the EMEA region, 16.5 per cent in the APAC region, and 10.5 per cent in AMER. Volume in this sector increased by 15.5 per cent, with the average selling price rising by 1.6 per cent.
Significantly, the company's gross margin improved by 360 basis points to 52.5 per cent. This growth was primarily attributed to lower unit costs, reduced freight expenses, and higher average selling prices.
However, Skechers’ operating expenses also rose by 16.9 per cent. As a percentage of sales, these expenses increased by 150 basis points to 39.2 per cent. Selling expenses alone surged by 21.7 per cent, or $27.9 million, primarily due to elevated demand creation expenditures. General and administrative expenses rose by $99.9 million or 15.9 per cent, influenced by higher labor and facility costs, including rent and depreciation.
Despite the rise in expenses, Skechers’ earnings from operations soared significantly by 33.6 per cent to $298.8 million, with the operating margin expanding to 13.3 per cent. The brand’s net earnings also saw an increase to $206.6 million.
David Weinberg, Chief Operating Officer, states, a strong global demand for the brand alongwith a healthy inventory position comprised of proven sellers, innovative technologies, and new product categories presents significant growth opportunities for the brand across the globe.
In Q1 FY 2024, prominent US-based brand, Columbia Sportswear Company experienced a 6 per cent decline in net sales to $770 million as against $820.6 million registered in the same period last year. This decline was primarily driven by the brand’s reduced wholesale net sales in the US and Canada, influenced by cautious retail behavior, a challenging competitive environment, and subdued consumer demand.
Despite the decrease in sales, the brand’s gross margin rose by 190 basis points to 50.6 per cent of sales, up from 48.7 per cent in the first quarter of FY23. This increase indicates stronger profitability per unit sold, counterbalancing the overall drop in revenue.
Operating expenses remained relatively stable, with selling, general, and administrative (SG&A) expenses slightly increasing to $349.3 million, or 45.4 per cent of net sales, compared to $347.4 million, or 42.3 per cent of net sales in the previous year. This adjustment reflects a proportional increase due to the lower sales volume.
The brand’s operating income declined by 21 per cent to $44.7 million, representing 5.8 per cent of net sales, down from 6.9 per cent in the corresponding period last year. This decline in operating income mirrors the challenges encountered in maintaining sales volumes and managing operational costs.
The brand's net income decreased by 8 per cent to $42.3 million, or $0.71 per diluted share, compared to $46.2 million, or $0.74 per diluted share, in the first quarter of FY23.
Inventory exiting the quarter was down 37 per cent Y-oY, and the brand’s Profit Improvement Plan is on track to achieve savings targets. Based on year-to-date results, Columbia Sportswear is reiterating its net sales outlook while modestly increasing diluted EPS range, states Tim Boyle, Chairman, President, and CEO.
A pioneering sustainable fashion brand based in Los Angeles, Reformation has unveiled a new swimwear collection made from Evo bio-based yarn by Fulgar, a renowned Italian manufacturer specialising in high-performance synthetic fibers. This launch marks another significant step towards Reformation's overarching mission of democratising sustainable fashion.
Combining vintage-inspired styles with responsible business practices, Reformation releases bi-weekly, limited-edition collections both online and across its global retail locations. Every aspect of its operations integrates sustainability, culminating in two pivotal goals: achieving Climate Positive status by 2025 and Circular operations by 2030
The partnership with Fulgar underscores Reformation's commitment to environmentally responsible practices. Renowned for its dedication to develop eco-friendly textiles, Fulgar aligns seamlessly with Reformation's values. Kathleen Talbot, Chief Sustainability Officer, Reformation emphasises on the imperative to minimise reliance on fossil fuels in fabric production. By 2025, Reformation aims for less than 1 per cent of its sourcing to comprise synthetic materials, both virgin and recycled, she adds.
A game changer in sustainable textile innovation, Evo by Fulgar is derived from renewable sources such as castor oil plants and waste corn, Evo boasts comparable performance to traditional polyamide while boasting impeccable eco-credentials. Its versatility makes it suitable for various applications, from sportswear to swimwear, offering lightweight, stretchable, and breathable properties.
Daniela Antunes, Marketing Manager, Fulgar, notes, the company’s collaboration with Reformation is a testament to its dedication towards eco-conscious research and development. The company’s investment in R&D over the past decade has led to several breakthroughs in sustainable fibers like the launch of Q-Nova and Evo.
Established in the late 1970s, Fulgar has emerged as a global leader in the synthetic fiber sector, prioritising environmental sustainability and innovation. Its product range spans various textile sectors, from hosiery to sportswear, showcasing quality and uniqueness while honoring Italy's textile heritage.
Marking a significant milestone in its journey, Spanish fast fashion retailer Inditex returned to the Venezuela market by opening a Zara store under a franchise agreement.
Known for its portfolio of popular brands including Bershka and Pull & Bear, Inditex had shuttered all its operations in Venezuela in 2021 following a restructuring of its franchise agreement with local partner Phoenix World Trade.
However, earlier this year, the fashion conglomerate reaffirmed its commitment to the Venezuelan market with plans to reestablish its presence through a partnership with Grupo Futura.
Eagerly awaited by fashion enthusiasts, the relaunch of Inditex in Venezuela signifies not only a fresh beginning for the retailer in the country but also a resurgence of interest in global fashion trends among Venezuelan consumers.
According to a recent report by Market.us, the global maternity wear market is on track to hit a substantial value of around $37 billion by 2033, up from $21 billion in 2023, reflecting a steady growth rate of 5.8 per cent over the forecast period from 2024 to 2033.
According to report, the market is dominated by tops, which hold a significant 41.5 per cent share, followed by dresses and gowns, and bottom wear. Cotton is the primary material choice, commanding over 35 per cent of the market, followed by polyester and nylon. In terms of price range, the $100- $200 bracket leads with a 30.4 per cent market share, followed by below $100 and above $200 options. Hypermarkets/supermarkets are the preferred distribution channel, capturing 45.4 per cent of the market share, with online retail rapidly gaining ground.
Asia Pacific emerges as the most promising market for maternity wear globally, with substantial growth opportunities projected. The region holds a dominant 45 per cent share in 2023, driven by factors such as rapid urbanisation, industrial expansion, and increasing adoption of electric vehicles in countries like China, Japan, and South Korea. Additionally, favorable government policies, incentives promoting renewable energy adoption, and significant investments in infrastructure further bolster the market landscape.
In terms of product segmentation, tops lead the market, indicating their popularity among consumers, followed closely by dresses and gowns, with bottom wear also holding a notable share. Innerwear plays a crucial role in providing support and comfort during pregnancy, while other product categories such as outerwear, activewear, and nursing wear contribute to the market with smaller shares.
During a meeting with Hossam Heiba, CEO, General Authority for Investment and Free Zones (GAFI), a delegation from the Chinese Council for Textiles and Ready-made Garments expressed keen interest in investing $300 million towards developing an integrated textile city in Egypt.
As per the delegation, this proposed textile city will encompass all stages of the industry, leveraging Egypt's advantageous capabilities to potentially become a global textile hub.
Comprising leaders and representatives from 20 renowned companies and alliances specialising in various textile fields such as spinning, dyeing, and printing, the Chinese recognised Egypt's strategic importance as a market in the Middle East and Africa, and expressed a strong desire to contribute to its economic landscape.
Heiba underscored Egypt's dedication to attract more Chinese companies, particularly in the textile sector, acknowledging the sector's pivotal role in fostering economic growth and development. To facilitate this, Heiba presented the delegation with a range of investment opportunities in Egypt, showcasing potential sites such as Damietta, Sadat, and New Alamein. These locations are part of the government's initiative to establish new free and industrial zones, aimed at incentivising direct foreign investments.
The fashion industry's long-standing reliance on recycled polyester from plastic bottles is facing scrutiny as its drawbacks become apparent. Initially celebrated as a sustainable solution, this approach is now being reassessed in favour of a more circular model.
Disrupting recycling loops
Brands like H&M, Patagonia, and Zara have championed recycled polyester from plastic bottles as a means to reduce reliance on virgin polyester and its high carbon footprint. However, this method disrupts existing bottle recycling loops, competing with closed-loop systems for beverage containers. Consequently, fewer bottles are recycled back into bottles, and the energy-intensive process of transforming bottles into polyester offsets some environmental benefits. Richard Wielechowski, Senior Investment Analyst, Planet Tracker points out, the biggest problem with bottles as a source for recycled polyester is that it takes bottles out of a circular loop in plastic packaging.
Landfill concerns
Despite its eco-friendly intentions, clothing made from recycled polyester often ends up in landfills, contributing to microplastic pollution and methane emissions. Synthetic fabrics, including recycled polyester, shed microplastics during washing, exacerbating plastic pollution in oceans and waterways.
Data points
• Synthetic fabrics like polyester account for 54 per cent of global fiber production, surpassing cotton.
• Only 1 per cent of clothing gets recycled.
• Unifi, a major recycled polyester producer, aims to convert the equivalent of 1.5 billion old T-shirts into new polyester yarn by 2030.
Embracing textile-to-textile recycling
Recognizing the limitations of bottle-to-clothes recycling, the fashion industry is turning towards textile-to-textile recycling as a more sustainable alternative. H&M's $600 million investment in Syre, a startup pioneering textile-to-textile recycling, signals a significant shift in strategy. Syre aims to establish large-scale plants capable of processing vast quantities of used clothing, thereby closing the loop on textile waste.
Meanwhile leading brands like Zara from Inditex and Puma are also embracing textile-to-textile recycling, partnering with companies like Ambercycle. This collaborative approach marks a departure from bottle-based recycled polyester production.
Overcoming challenges
Despite the promise of textile-to-textile recycling, challenges persist, particularly regarding microplastic pollution. Scalability is also an issue as the current infrastructure needs significant expansion to handle the industry's massive waste stream.
However, efforts to minimize fiber release during washing and develop filtration systems for washing machines are underway to address the issue of microplastics. The establishment of large-scale textile recycling infrastructure remains in its early stages, highlighting the need for industry-wide collaboration to ensure sufficient capacity.
The broader impact
The transition to textile-to-textile recycling will significantly enhance the fashion industry's sustainability efforts by reducing reliance on virgin polyester and minimizing landfill waste.
Increasing consumer demand for sustainable practices, coupled with government regulations like the EU's Extended Producer Responsibility (EPR), are driving this shift. Brands face mounting pressure to adopt sustainable solutions, making textile-to-textile recycling an attractive option.
A new narrative for sustainable fashion
While recycled polyester from bottles played a role in raising awareness about sustainability, the fashion industry is now embracing a more circular approach centered on textile-to-textile recycling. This shift, combined with efforts to address microplastic pollution, heralds a brighter future for sustainable fashion.
