FW
In Q2 of fiscal year 2024, Pakistan's Textile Composite sector witnessed a steep 57.8 per cent Q-o-Q in net profits, falling to Rs5.14 billion compared to Rs12.17 billion in the previous quarter. Textile industry in the country faced significant challenges due to soaring energy costs, leading to a downturn in profitability and partial shutdowns across the sector.
Global economic uncertainties, including rising production costs and frequent energy shortages, further compounded the industry's difficulties.
One major issue affecting the sector is the burden of cross subsidies on energy costs imposed by the regulator. While regional competitors have seen their exports flourish, Pakistan has struggled to increase its exports during fiscal year 2024.
According to Mettis Global's analysis of income statements from four Textile Composite companies, the sector experienced a 7.2 per cent Q-o-Q decrease in sales revenue, amounting to Rs119.3 billion compared to Rs128.6 billion in the previous quarter.
Cost of sales decreased by 5 per cent Q-o-Q but did not proportionally align with the decline in sales, resulting in a 16.7 per cent Q-o-Q decrease in gross profit to Rs 20.4 billion. Selling and distribution expenses decreased by 5.7 per cent Q-o-Q, while other operating expenses dropped by 40.9 per cent. However, administrative expenses rose by 5.5 per cent, reaching Rs 4.1 billion.
During the review quarter, the sector's other income decreased by 50.5 per cent Q-o-Q to Rs3.1 billion, while finance costs increased by 11 per cent to Rs 7.7 billion, primarily due to high borrowing costs. The Export Refinance Facility rate rose to 19 per cent, and the average rate for KIBOR-based financing increased to 22 per cent.
Despite global economic improvements, Pakistan's macroeconomic indicators continue to present challenges, including geopolitical uncertainties and supply chain disruptions.
According to Gul Ahmed Textile Mills, some of these challenges include ongoing conflicts, geopolitical uncertainties, recent hikes in gas prices that have made export sectors less competitive and a shortfall in the domestic cotton crop, that has necessitates the import of cotton bales to meet industry demands.
Adhering to the terms of the IMF's Stand-by Facility, the government has implemented significant hikes in gas prices, leading to a marked increase in the cost of conducting business. These conditions are likely to result in a notable economic deceleration and contraction in export volumes.
L’Catterton’s offer to delist the company led to Italian luxury group Tod's operating profit rising to €94.7 million ($103.3 million) in 2023 from €58.2million a year earlier.
The shoemaker's earnings before interest and taxes (EBIT) surged above the analysts' forecast of €88-million, according to a company-provided consensus.
Its sales rose by 11.9 per cent to €1.13 billion last year, boosted by China and despite slower growth in the last quarter, as per preliminary data released in January.
In the next few years, Tod aims to focus on consolidating its individual brands. L Catterton, the private equity group backed by France's LVMH offered to buy 36 per cent of the Italian luxury shoemaker last month and delist it, in agreement with the Della Valle family which created the company.
Abercrombie & Fitch Co. has decided to venture into the bridal market with a new collection comprising over 100 pieces for brides, bridesmaids, and wedding guests, ranging from $80 to $180.
Recognising the importance of evolving alongside its customer base, Abercrombie sees the bridal collection as a natural extension of its portfolio, targeting individuals in their twenties through forties, particularly those embracing more casual styles for long weekends and special occasions.
Through its entry into the bridal market, Aberchrombie & Fitch aims to cater to a range of wedding-related events from showers to honeymoons. However, the market poses several challenges for the brand including an established presence of competitors who have already carved out their niches. To survive this competition, Abercrombie needs distinguish its bridal line from the rest through innovative design and quality craftsmanship.
Furthermore, shifting wedding trends, such as couples financing their own ceremonies and the decline of traditional bridal retailers like David’s Bridal, have created opportunities for new entrants. The rise of online and affordable options, including those offered by Amazon and other fashion retailers, has intensified competition.
To capture market share, the company must offer unique features and impeccable quality that resonate with brides seeking affordable yet distinctive attire. While investing in design and quality may incur additional costs, it presents an opportunity to attract budget-conscious shoppers looking for value beyond the traditional bridal spectrum.
Despite the overall decline in weddings and changing consumer behaviors, there remains a sizable market segment willing to invest in moderately priced bridal attire. Abercrombie can leverage its expertise in brand revitalization and product quality to establish its presence in this space under the leadership of CEO Fran Horowitz.
In essence, Abercrombie's foray into bridal wear represents a strategic move to diversify its offerings and capture a share of the evolving wedding market. By focusing on differentiation and quality, Abercrombie aims to carve out its niche and build upon its success in redefining its brand image.
As Monforts marks its 140th anniversary, the company remains at the forefront of finishing and coating technologies for technical textiles. Ahead of the Techtextil show in Frankfurt from April 23-26, Monforts anticipates engaging discussions on both existing processes and innovative applications.
Monforts' European-built Montex stenters have established themselves as leaders in fabric finishing within the technical textiles sector. Renowned for their robustness, longevity, versatility, and ecological considerations, these stenters cater to a diverse range of industries including geotextiles, automotive fabrics, and functional materials.
Recent installations highlight Monforts' commitment to serving evolving industry needs. From specialized nonwovens treatment for filter media in Canada to bespoke solutions for sun protection fabrics in France, Monforts' technologies adapt to various production demands.
In Germany, GTA's utilization of wide-width Montex lines underscores the country's prominence in European technical textiles production. Andreas Niess, Managing Director of GTA, praises Monforts' exemplary after-service and quality, affirming their pivotal role in achieving fault-free substrates for digital printing.
Knopf's Sohn, a key player in contract finishing for automotive, aerospace, and home furnishings markets, attests to the efficiency of a newly installed Montex stenter at their facility in Helmbrechts.
Furthermore, Dolinschek, a manufacturer of diverse technical products, relies on Monforts for finishing technology. Their utilization of Montex stenters and Montex Coat coating units underscores Monforts' versatility in meeting varied industry demands.
Looking ahead, Monforts Marketing Manager Nicole Croonenbroek emphasizes the anticipation surrounding Techtextil 2024. The exhibition promises to showcase future advancements in technical fabrics, including Monforts' latest development in advanced coating technologies.
Monforts invites attendees to visit their stand at Techtextil 2024, where they will unveil further details on their latest innovations. As the industry continues to evolve, Monforts remains steadfast in its commitment to driving progress and meeting the ever-changing needs of the technical textiles sector.
In a bid to accelerate the transition to a net positive fashion industry, Global Fashion Agenda (GFA), a non-profit organization, has teamed up with PDS ventures, the innovation and investment arm of PDS Limited, to unveil the Trailblazer Programme. This initiative aims to identify and nurture early-stage innovators in the fashion sector and propel them towards scalable success.
Investment and support
Central to the Trailblazer Program is the provision of significant financial backing, with PDS Ventures offering a substantial investment of up to $ 200,000 to one standout innovator. This injection of capital is designed to fuel the growth and positive impact of the selected company within the fashion industry. Additionally, the winning innovator will receive invaluable commercial and operational assistance from PDS Group’s Positive Materials, a textile company dedicated to fostering low-impact textile innovation through strategic collaborations with startups, supply chain partners, and brands. Moreover, access to PDS Limited’s expansive global supply chain promises further avenues for growth and scalability.
Open call for innovators
GFA and PDS ventures have issued an open call inviting solution providers tackling diverse challenges across the fashion value chain to participate in the program. An esteemed jury, featuring representatives from GFA, PDS ventures, Massachusetts Institute of Technology (MIT), Ralph Lauren Corporation, Fashion For Good, and H&M Group, will evaluate and shortlist applicants. From this pool, eight promising innovations will be selected as Trailblazers, gaining access to expert feedback and investment pitch training from industry stalwarts and PDS representatives.
Pitching for investment
Following comprehensive preparation, each shortlisted innovator will pitch their solution for potential investment. The ultimate Trailblazer will be unveiled at GFA’s Global Fashion Summit: Copenhagen Edition 2024, a premier international forum for sustainability in fashion. Set to take place on May 22-23 at the Copenhagen Concert Hall, the summit offers a platform for Trailblazers to showcase their businesses and forge vital connections with key industry stakeholders and potential investors.
Aligning with the Summit theme
The Trailblazer Program aligns seamlessly with the theme of the upcoming Global Fashion Summit: ‘Unlocking The Next Level.’ As 2024 marks 15 years since the inaugural summit in 2009, this milestone presents a unique opportunity to reflect on the evolution of the fashion sector and the strides made in sustainability. More crucially, it serves as a call to action, urging stakeholders to identify and address pressing gaps to expedite industry transformation.
Voices of endorsement
Federica Marchionni, CEO of Global Fashion Agenda, emphasizes the critical role of innovation and investment in reshaping the fashion landscape. She stresses the importance of supporting early-stage solutions to drive lasting impact, particularly amid economic challenges. Pallak Seth, Founder and Executive Vice Chairman of PDS Limited, echoes this sentiment, underscoring the urgency of backing climate-first innovators with not only financial resources but also mentorship and guidance.
The collaboration between GFA and PDS ventures through the Trailblazer Program represents a significant stride towards fostering innovation and sustainability within the fashion industry. By providing crucial support and investment to budding entrepreneurs, the initiative aims to catalyze positive change and propel the sector towards a more sustainable future.
The 61st edition of the renowned international yarns and fibers exhibition, Filo ended in Milan with resoundingly positive outcomes. The vibrant ambiance across the booths and exhibition areas showcased high-quality collections from both Italian and foreign textile manufacturers, emphasising innovation and sustainability.
Buyer engagement was notably intense from the onset, with a substantial influx observed throughout the two-day event. Of significance was the increased presence of foreign visitors, affirming a trend witnessed across several editions and benefiting exhibitors from abroad.
Notably, Filo collaborated with the ITA Agency to host a delegation of 27 foreign professionals from various countries, while the partnership with the Piedmont Region facilitated the attendance of 10 buyers from Belgium, Finland, France, Germany, the Netherlands, Portugal, and the UK. These participants were part of the Textile Integrated Supply Chain (PIF) Project, funded by P.R.FESR 2021-2027 through the Regional Agency for Internationalisation. Additionally, a group of buyers embarked on a study tour in the Biella district post-exhibition, immersing themselves in the region's production excellence.
Paolo Monfermoso, organiser, emphasises, Filo serves as a dedicated platform for industry professionals to facilitate collaborations and match supply with demand. The presence of dyeing mills, associations, and fiber producers at the exhibition fosters dialogue across the supply chain and encourages product innovation, he adds.
The central theme of the event was Circularity as evident from the inauguration ceremony's focus on the Recycling Hub pilot project in Biella district. Speakers at the roundtable discussed about sustainability, highlighting the need for alternative supply chains focused on recycling materials. Monfermoso praised the collaboration behind the Recycling Hub project, emphasising Filo's commitment to promote sustainable practices throughout the industry.
Promising another opportunity for industry stakeholders to drive innovation and sustainability forward, the 62nd edition of Filo is scheduled from September 18-19, 2024, at Allianz MiCo-Milan,
Despite not making a clear commitment to eliminate fur items from its production, renowned fashion and luxury goods brand Max Mara has been accused by Four Paws of concealing fur products within the intricacies of its website.
As the official representative of the Fur Free Retailer program in several countries, Four Paws, part of the Fur Free Alliance (FFA), has been tirelessly campaigning against the use of fur in fashion. With over 1,500 brands and retailers already committed to the program, Four Paws has been pressuring Max Mara to reconsider its stance on fur.
After weeks of intense campaigning, Four Paws claims that Max Mara has removed all fur items from its international website. However, the company has not publicly distanced itself from the practice nor committed to clear plans to phase out fur from its catalogs.
Thomas Pietsch, Head - Animals in Textiles, Four Paws, says, Max Mara's responsibility towards the sufferings of millions of animals cannot be ignored. Despite the removal of fur items from the website, the organisation continues to advocate for a fur-free future.
Founded in 1988 by Heli Dungler in Vienna, Four Paws envisions a world where animals are treated with respect and empathy. With offices and sanctuaries worldwide, the organisation highlights the growing global movement against fur production and sales. Many European countries, Israel, the US state of California, and several US cities have already implemented bans on fur.
Four Paws emphasises that Max Mara's actions come after sustained pressure from protests and online campaigns by partners in the Fur Free Alliance. The organisation vows to continue urging Max Mara to join other major Italian fashion brands like Armani, Gucci, and Versace in abandoning fur.
The global sports apparel market is poised to reach $75.6 billion by 2027, growing at a CAGR of 6.82 per cent between 2022-2027, as per a report by Technavio Research.
The market is expected to be dominated by industry giants like Adidas AG, Nike Inc., and Under Armour Inc with North America commanding 37 per cent of the global market share.
While offline avenues will thrive through specialty shops and department stores, e-commerce will emerge as a formidable force, reshaping buyer-supplier dynamics with its convenience and accessibility, as per the report
From moisture-wicking fabrics to compression technology, the garments themselves will embody a fusion of function and style, mirroring the aspirations of athletes and fitness enthusiasts alike. Antimicrobial properties will ensure not just performance but also hygiene with sustainability emerging as a guiding principle. Influencer marketing and brand collaborations will continue to influence brand preference.
Investors are urging Inditex, the owner of Zara, to adopt the transparency practices of its counterparts, H&M and Primark and publicly disclose its full list of suppliers. They believe, this will help investors better evaluate potential supply chain risks, especially concerning forced labor and fair wages for garment workers.
Several prominent fashion brands such as Adidas, H&M, Nike, and Primark have already disclosed their detailed supplier lists, including factory names and locations. However, Inditex has provided only aggregated data on the number of suppliers without revealing individual factories.
In response to demands for improved disclosure, led by Dutch asset manager MN, Inditex investors are advocating for transparency regarding supplier lists and geographical locations. MN represents Platform Living Wage Financials, a coalition of institutional investors aiming to ensure fair wages for workers in the garment and footwear industries.
Founded by Amancio Ortega, Inditex remains tight-lipped about disclosing its full supplier list, emphasising its commitment to maintain high standards in the supply chain. Meanwhile, the company’s engagement with global trade unions and benchmarking initiatives like Know The Chain indicate some efforts toward transparency, but calls persist for broader disclosures.
Investors like Swetha Ramachandran from Artemis Investment Management are emphasising on understanding the geographic distribution of Inditex's manufacturing operations to assess supply chain resilience.
Grace Su from Clearbridge Investments and Hannah Shoesmith from Schroders highlight the significance of supply chain disclosure amidst increasing focus on environmental, social, and governance (ESG) factors in investment decisions. Marie Payne from Cardano underscores the potential impact of improved disclosure on investment choices.
In its Annual Session for 2023-2024, Confederation of Indian Industry (CII) Punjab announced the appointment of Abhishek Gupta, Chief – Strategic Marketing, Trident as its new Chairman while Amit Jain, Managing Director, Shingora Textiles has been appointed as the new Vice-Chairman.
Dr PJ Singh, Past Chairman, CII Punjab and CMD, Tynor Orthotics, handed over the leadership baton to Gupta emphasising on the importance of nurturing a culture of innovation through R&D and fostering partnerships with academic institutions. He expressed confidence in Gupta's ability to empower Punjabi businesses to thrive globally.
Acknowledging the relevance of ongoing industry issues championed by his predecessor, Gupta assured that these concerns, alongside other pressing matters, would remain central to the agenda during his tenure.
As Chief – Strategic Marketing, Trident, a $1 billion flagship company, Gupta has been pivotal in driving the company’s success. He spearheaded several initiatives to optimise corporate functions and enhance supply chain management, propelling Trident's global expansion to over 150 countries.
With over 26 years of entrepreneurial experience, Jain has adeptly transformed a traditional family handloom shawl business into a modern, technology-driven enterprise. His strategic foresight helped position Shingora Textiles as an innovative industry leader, poised for continued success.
