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US Senators Sheldon Whitehouse (D-RI) and Lindsey Graham (R-SC) have introduced the Closing the De Minimis Loophole Act, bipartisan legislation aimed at ending a long-standing trade exemption that allows packages valued under $800 to enter the US without tariffs or inspection.
The legislation comes amid mounting concerns over illicit drugs, particularly fentanyl, entering the country through this loophole. Currently, millions of packages many from China bypass tariffs and full customs checks due to the ‘De Minimis’ threshold, creating vulnerabilities in the system.
“Given the explosion of e-commerce and the rise of complex global supply chains, this loophole must be closed to stop cartels and criminals from exploiting our customs system,” said Whitehouse. He emphasized that the bill will also protect domestic industries, including Rhode Island's textile sector, from unfair foreign competition.
Graham echoed these concerns, stating the measure will help curb the influx of illicit drugs and support manufacturers in his home state of South Carolina. “It’s about protecting Americans and ensuring fair competition,” he added.
The Closing the De Minimis Loophole Act would immediately eliminate de minimis treatment for shipments from China and phase out the exemption for other countries over a four-month period. During this time, the Treasury Secretary will initiate a rulemaking process to equip US Customs and Border Protection with effective enforcement tools and coordinate procedures with the Postal Service.
The legislation is endorsed by key industry and labor groups, including the National Council of Textile Organizations (NCTO), United Steelworkers, and the National Association of Police Organizations. NCTO President Kim Glas hailed the bill as the “most comprehensive legislative solution” to a loophole that has allowed over 4 million unchecked packages into the U.S. daily, often containing goods made with forced labor.
Law enforcement and anti-drug advocacy groups also backed the bill, citing its potential to disrupt major fentanyl trafficking channels. Facing Fentanyl founder Andrea Thomas called the act “critical to stopping deadly shipments from entering our communities.”
The US textile industry employs nearly 471,000 workers and generates $64 billion annually. This legislation follows previous bipartisan efforts by Whitehouse and Graham to bolster trade law enforcement and customs modernization.
Expanding on the recent LinkedIn post by Lubomila Jordanova, CEO & Founder of Plan A and Co-Founder of Greentech Alliance, the fashion industry is grappling with the implications of ultra-fast fashion exemplified by companies like Shein. Jordanova's observation that Shein launched 1.3 million new designs in the past year has sparked a critical examination of its business model and its stark contrast with sustainable fashion practices. It has also started a crucial debate: Can speed and sustainability truly coexist within the fashion industry?
Shein’s business model, rooted in its Chinese operational core and a digitally integrated supply chain around Guangzhou, enables the rapid production and release of over 3,500 new styles daily. This "real-time retail" approach, driven by consumer data and agile manufacturing, stands in stark contrast to the principles of sustainability, which emphasize longevity, resource conservation, and ethical practices.
A Clash of Paradigms: Speed vs. Sustainability
The fundamental tension lies in the inherent characteristics of each approach. Speed, in the context of ultra-fast fashion, often necessitates compromises on material quality, production ethics, and environmental considerations to meet rapid turnaround times and low price points. Sustainability, conversely, demands a more deliberate and long-term perspective, prioritizing durable materials, fair labor, and minimizing environmental impact throughout the product lifecycle.
Cross-sectional views, for and against coexistence
Technological innovation: Some industry experts believe advancements in textile recycling technologies, on-demand manufacturing, and AI-driven design could potentially bridge the gap. For instance, companies are exploring methods to rapidly recycle textile waste back into new fibers, reducing the reliance on virgin resources even within a fast-paced system.
Data-driven demand forecasting: Proponents suggest that sophisticated data analytics could allow for more precise demand forecasting, minimizing overproduction even with frequent new releases. If production is truly aligned with real-time consumer needs, the argument goes, waste could be reduced.
Circular business models: The rise of rental platforms, resale markets, and repair services could extend the lifespan of garments, even those initially produced within a faster cycle. This shifts the focus from ownership to access and maximizes the utility of each item.
‘Slow fast fashion’: A nascent concept suggests a model where trend responsiveness is maintained, but with a greater emphasis on ethical sourcing, durable materials, and transparent supply chains, albeit potentially at a slightly higher price point than current ultra-fast fashion.
Against true coexistence
Inherent resource intensity: The very nature of rapid and massive production, even with some efficiency gains, requires significant energy, water, and raw materials. The environmental footprint of producing 1.3 million designs annually, regardless of minor improvements, remains substantial.
Pressure on supply chains: The demand for constant newness and rapid production inevitably puts immense pressure on manufacturers, leading to compromised labor standards and environmental shortcuts.
Consumer behavior and disposability: The low prices and constant influx of new items in ultra-fast fashion often encourage a culture of disposability, undermining efforts towards a circular economy and longer garment lifespan.
Greenwashing concerns: Critics argue that claims of sustainability within a fundamentally fast-paced model can often be a form of greenwashing, misleading consumers without addressing the core issues of overconsumption and waste.
Recent data from a 2024 report by the Ellen MacArthur Foundation indicates that less than 1 per cent of materials used to produce clothing are recycled into new clothing globally. This highlights the significant challenge in achieving circularity at the scale of ultra-fast fashion.
|
Metric |
Ultra-fast fashion characteristics |
Sustainable fashion initiatives |
|
Material Circularity Rate (Global) |
< 1% contribution |
Aiming for > 50% recycled/upcycled content |
|
Average Garment Lifespan |
Often < 1 year |
Targetting > 5 years |
|
Water Usage per Garment (Cotton) |
High (thousands of liters) |
Aiming for water-efficient or alternative materials |
|
Carbon Emissions per Production Cycle |
Generally higher due to volume and speed |
Focus on renewable energy and localized production |
The upcycle speed of Re/Done
Companies like Re/Done offer a potential glimpse into a form of "upcycled speed." They source vintage denim and repurpose it into new, fashionable designs with relatively quick turnaround times. While not matching Shein's sheer volume, they demonstrate that rapid creation can be achieved with a focus on circularity and utilizing existing resources. However, their production scale remains significantly smaller, and price points are considerably higher.
The transparency challenge for ASOS
While not operating at Shein's extreme speed, ASOS, another large online fashion retailer, has faced scrutiny regarding the transparency of its supply chain and the environmental impact of its fast-fashion model. Despite efforts to introduce more sustainable collections, the sheer volume of their output and the pressure to offer affordable, trend-led clothing continue to pose significant sustainability challenges.
The moot point whether speed and sustainability can truly coexist in fashion remains a complex and evolving one. While technological advancements and innovative business models offer glimmers of hope, the fundamental conflict between rapid, high-volume production and the principles of environmental and ethical responsibility persists. As Lubomila Jordanova emphasizes, the long-term value of the fashion industry will likely lie in a shift away from simply feeding demand towards shaping it – prioritizing quality, durability, and mindful consumption over the relentless pursuit of the next fleeting trend. The data and emerging case studies suggest that while certain aspects of speed and sustainability might be reconciled on a smaller scale or through niche models, achieving true harmony at the scale of ultra-fast fashion presents a formidable challenge. The industry must critically evaluate its priorities and embrace a paradigm shift that values longevity and responsibility over ephemeral trends and unsustainable volume.
The 2025 Mumbai edition of Gartex Texprocess India opened its doors at the Jio World Convention Centre on May 22, bringing together over 125 exhibitors from India, China, Italy, Japan, Korea, Singapore, and Taiwan. With a sharp focus on textile and garment manufacturing machinery, innovative fabrics, digital screen printing, trims, and accessories, the show aims to spotlight India's evolving role in the global textile and fashion ecosystem.
Maharashtra pushes for local manufacturing and waste-free fashion
The exhibition was inaugurated by a panel of eminent dignitaries, including Sanjay Savkare, Hon’ble Minister of Textiles, Government of Maharashtra, who served as the Chief Guest. Other notable attendees included Shashank Chaudhary (IAS), Additional CEO of Invest UP; Steven Fang, Chairman of Taiwan Sewing Machinery Association; Elgar Straub, Managing Director of VDMA Textile Care, Fabric & Leather Technologies; Sharad Jaipuria, President of Denim Manufacturers Association & CMD of Ginni International Ltd; and other industry leaders from Hyosung Group, Jindal Worldwide, Raymond UCO, MEX Exhibitions, Messe Frankfurt, and the Denim Manufacturers Association.
In his inaugural address, Savkare highlighted Maharashtra's strategic policy initiatives to promote textile manufacturing. "Denim has become a major fashion trend globally, and we have relaxed import duties on textile machinery. To boost local manufacturing, the government has launched the Technical Textile Mission which provides subsidies to manufacturers," he said. He outlined the zonal subsidy structure of the state textile policy offering up to 45 per cent support depending on the region. He also introduced the Zero-Waste Fashion initiative aimed at converting textile waste into useful products such as carpets. To support this, electricity subsidies of Rs 2 per unit for private players and Rs 3 for co-operatives have been announced. He also confirmed the upcoming launch of the PM Mitra Park in Amravati, where final works are nearing completion.
Uttar Pradesh's mega textile park opens new investment avenues
Adding to this, Shashank Chaudhary discussed developments under the PM Mitra Scheme in Uttar Pradesh. "We are developing a 1,000-acre mega textile park near Lucknow under a PPP model, offering a significant opportunity for investors. The state is also enhancing ease of business through new single-window portals for approvals," he shared.
Industry leaders unite to drive innovation and growth
The show’s organisers stressed the importance of the event in fostering innovation and collaboration. Gaurav Juneja, Director of MEX Exhibitions Pvt Ltd, said, “Gartex Texprocess India has become a strong industry platform for knowledge exchange and showcasing transformative solutions across fabric, denim, and machinery. With Invest Uttar Pradesh as our State Partner, this edition promises to offer new business possibilities.”
Echoing these sentiments, Raj Manek, Executive Director and Board Member, Messe Frankfurt Asia Holdings Ltd, noted, “This event transcends traditional exhibitions. It helps align India’s strengths with international demand, especially at a time of shifting global supply chains.”
Jointly organised by MEX Exhibitions Pvt Ltd and Messe Frankfurt Trade Fairs India Pvt Ltd, Gartex Texprocess India Mumbai will run until May 24, 2025, serving as a dynamic hub for textile manufacturers, technology providers, and fashion innovators from across the globe.
A new report from the EU Horizon T-REX (Textile Recycling Excellence) Project, while focused on piloting a data model to enhance textile-to-textile recycling, inadvertently casts a shadow on the immediate scalability and viability of such systems. An analysis of the project's operational data reveals material losses throughout the recycling process, raising critical questions about the true potential of achieving a circular economy for textiles.
The T-REX project tracked material flow through various recycling pathways, offering a glimpse into the real-world efficiencies – or rather, inefficiencies – of current technologies. The findings create concerns, suggesting that the journey from textile waste to new fibers is fraught with substantial hurdles.
Alarming loss rates in cotton and polyester recycling
The data unequivocally highlights the challenge of retaining material mass during the recycling process. For cotton, the results are particularly stark. Starting with 465 kg of input material, the pilot project yielded a mere 182 kg of usable fiber. Almost 283 kg, or 60.8 per cent, was lost as waste during the mechanical pre-treatment and subsequent chemical recycling stages.
Polyester recycling efforts within the project mirrored these worrying trends. An initial batch of 300 kg of carefully sourced and pre-processed polyester resulted in only 125 kg output. The remaining 175 kg, which was 58.3 per cent of the input, ended up as waste. The polyester recycling pathway within the T-REX project revealed a batch of 300 kg of what was deemed suitable feedstock, having undergone pre-sorting still resulted in a 58.3 per cent loss. This suggests that even with meticulous upstream processing, the inherent complexities of textile waste and the limitations of current depolymerization or melt-recycling technologies lead to significant material degradation or unusable byproducts.
Table: Material loss in cotton and polyester during recylcing
|
Input material (cotton) |
Usable fiber output (cotton) |
Waste generated (cotton) |
Material loss rate (cotton) |
|
465 kg |
182 kg |
283 kg |
60.80% |
|
Input material (polyester) |
Usable fiber output (polyester) |
Waste generated (polyester) |
Material loss rate (polyester) |
|
300 kg |
125 kg |
175 kg |
58.30% |
These figures, derived from controlled pilot-scale operations with pre-sorted feedstock, suggest that the complexities of real-world textile waste, which often includes mixed fibers, contaminants, and intricate garment designs, could lead to even greater losses at an industrial scale.
A Reality check for circularity
The report further reveals that material loss is not solely confined to the core recycling processes. Even the initial stages of sorting and pre-processing contribute significantly to the depletion of the material stream.
In the polyethylene terephthalate (PET) stream, a substantial 283 kg of material was lost during pre-processing from an initial input of 2,100 kg. This makes up a loss rate of approximately 13.5 per cent before any actual recycling took place. Similarly, the polyamide stream too saw attrition during pre-processing. Out of an initial 825 kg, 225 kg became waste, which was a loss of around 27.2 per cent.
"These findings are a crucial reality check for the ambitious goals of textile circularity," says Anya Sharma, a leading materials scientist not involved in the T-REX project. "While the development of data models is essential for tracking and optimization, the fundamental issue of material efficiency needs urgent attention. Losing over half the input material, even under optimized conditions, raises serious doubts about the environmental and economic sustainability of these processes at scale."
Limitations of current technologies and feedstock quality
The T-REX report also sheds light on the limitations imposed by current technologies and the inherent challenges of feedstock quality. Despite employing sensor-based sorting with a claimed accuracy of up to 99 per cent, composition impurities persisted. Furthermore, mechanical treatments such as chopping, tearing, and pelletizing introduced additional material losses.
The inability to effectively remove trims, coatings, and separate complex fiber blends further restricts the quality and recyclability of the input material. This highlights a significant bottleneck in achieving high-quality recycled fibers that can seamlessly replace virgin materials.
The unanswered question
T-REX project data culminates raises critical question: If more than half of the material is lost even under controlled, pilot-scale conditions, how can the system realistically be expected to operate sustainably and economically at a larger, industrial scale dealing with more complex and contaminated waste streams?
The report implicitly suggests that without significant breakthroughs in pre-processing technologies, chemical or mechanical recycling efficiency, and the design of textiles for recyclability, the vision of a truly circular textile industry remains a distant aspiration. An honest and data-driven assessment of these limitations is crucial to avoid building a roadmap to circularity on fundamentally flawed assumptions.
The T-REX project's data, while intended to pave the way for better tracking and management of textile recycling, serves as a reminder of the technological and logistical hurdles that must be overcome to make textile-to-textile recycling a viable and sustainable solution for the future. The industry now faces the critical task of innovating and investing in solutions that can drastically improve material efficiency across the entire value chain.
YKK Corporation, headquartered in Chiyoda-ku, Tokyo, has announced a major sustainability initiative to use only low-carbon aluminum in all its aluminum alloy zippers. The company has signed an agreement with Sumitomo Electric Industries and Sumitomo Electric Toyama to source low-carbon aluminum alloy wires, gradually expanding their use since fiscal year 2024.
This move supports YKK’s broader efforts under its ‘Sustainability Vision 2050,’ which targets climate neutrality by the year 2050. The company is committed to cutting greenhouse gas emissions by 90 per cent across Scope 1, 2, and 3 levels compared to fiscal 2018. Transitioning to low-carbon aluminum is a key strategy for reducing Scope 3 emissions across its supply chain.
Low-carbon aluminum, produced using renewable energy such as hydropower, emits less than 4 metric tons of carbon dioxide per ton of aluminum ingots significantly less than aluminum produced with fossil-fuel power. The shift will enhance the sustainability of YKK’s aluminum zippers without compromising on performance or aesthetics.
According to Terry Tsukumo, Vice President of Product Strategy at YKK, the company has already been increasing the use of recycled and plant-based materials in its zipper textiles. With this new aluminum initiative, YKK is advancing its goal to reduce environmental impact while maintaining the lightweight, silver-toned, nickel-free, and plating-free benefits of aluminum in products suitable for apparel and luggage.
YKK aims to work closely with customers and partners to further develop and market sustainable zipper products and technologies, contributing to global climate action and the realization of a sustainable society.
Jeanologia, the Spanish pioneer in sustainable textile finishing, is taking centre stage at Kingpins China 2025 in Hangzhou with a disruptive vision for the future of denim. Held on May 22-23, the event sees Jeanologia unveiling cutting-edge technologies that merge creativity, digitalization, and sustainability.
At the heart of its showcase is the powerful combination of laser technology and the G2 Indra ozone system, enhanced by the Atmos process. This trio enables the creation of hyper-realistic denim finishes and precise 3D designs without water, pumice stones, or harmful chemicals. Designers can now achieve any look from dark to light with high efficiency, setting new benchmarks for eco-conscious fashion.
Jeanologia also introduces Denim Metiers, an exclusive capsule collection created in collaboration with Kingpins. This exhibition merges the rawness of denim with the finesse of haute couture, highlighting how laser finishing transforms denim into a refined and artistic fabric. These pieces, featured on the Kingpins catwalk on May 23, reveal how technology can reshape creative expression.
Jessica Lau, Brainbox Product Development for Asia, will represent Jeanologia in the panel ‘Denim in the Digital Age’ on May 22, spotlighting eDesigner a digital platform that reduces physical sampling by 80 per cent and accelerates the design-to-market cycle.
With over 20 per cent of Chinese jeans now made using Jeanologia’s technologies, the company continues to drive sustainable innovation in one of the world’s largest denim markets, strengthening its role in redefining the future of fashion.
Lotus has become the first automotive brand to use high-quality recycled yarn in its electric vehicles, with the introduction of Wyron truecycled yarn in its Emeya and Eletre models. Developed by German firm Brain of Materials using Trutzschler’s advanced Truecycled process, this innovative yarn blends 50 per cent post-consumer textile waste with 50 per cent recycled polyester (Nm 15) and is used for the back sections of the car seats.
The yarn offers premium feel, lightweight properties, and strong sustainability credentials all aligning with Lotus’s high-performance image. “Wyron truecycled yarn demonstrates our commitment to innovation and sustainability while retaining a luxury aesthetic,” said Marie-Camille Lecoq, Head of CMF Sustainability at Lotus.
The entire production process from waste collection to spinning takes place in Western Europe, ensuring a lower environmental footprint. Trutzschler’s role was pivotal, providing machinery and technical expertise through its Truecycled process, which encompasses cutting, tearing, carding, and drawing of secondary fibers to deliver consistent yarn quality.
Christian Franke, Head of the Project Department at Trutzschler, noted, “Our close partnership with Brain of Materials helped ensure Wyron truecycled yarn meets the strict automotive standards for performance and durability.”
The launch of this recycled yarn in the automotive sector marks a turning point for sustainable textiles, proving they can meet the highest industrial demands. By merging textile innovation with automotive excellence, Lotus, Brain of Materials, and Trutzschler are driving forward a new vision for circularity in design and manufacturing.
Jilin Chemical Fiber Co Ltd (JLC) is ramping up production of its Next Generation Man-Made Cellulosic Fibre (MMCF) offerings, reinforcing its commitment to low-impact textile innovation in China’s growing circular fibre economy.
The company announced it will expand output of its viscose filament yarn Jirecell to an annual capacity of 10,000 tonnes, with potential to double to 20,000 tonnes. Jirecell is made from 70 per cent FSC-certified wood pulp and 30 per cent recycled cotton Circulose, a textile-to-textile fibre sourced from post-consumer garments. JLC also plans to increase the recycled content in Jirecell to 50 per cent by 2028 to further reduce its reliance on virgin wood fibre.
Additionally, JLC will begin commercial-scale production of Reboocel, a staple fibre blending 70 per cent FSC-certified bamboo with 30 per cent post-consumer recycled bamboo from discarded furniture. Reboocel aims for an annual capacity of 30,000 tonnes, further strengthening JLC’s foothold in low-impact, forest-friendly fibre innovation.
Nicole Rycroft, Founder and Executive Director of environmental nonprofit Canopy, welcomed the development, calling it ‘a positive signal of growing momentum’ for Next Gen MMCF solutions. She emphasized that scaling circular fibre is crucial to easing pressure on global forests and building resilience in viscose supply chains.
A Canopy partner since 2019, JLC received a ‘Dark Green Shirt’ rating in the 2024 Hot Button Report, which assesses MMCF producers’ forest sourcing risk. The company is currently deemed low risk for sourcing from Ancient and Endangered Forests and has a total annual fibre production capacity of 210,000 tonnes.
The Global Fashion Summit: Copenhagen Edition 2025, the premier international forum on sustainability in fashion, will return from 3-5 June at the Copenhagen Concert Hall. Organised by Global Fashion Agenda (GFA), the non-profit championing a net positive fashion industry, the summit enters its 16th year with the urgent theme, ‘Barriers and Bridges’, aiming to transform challenges into opportunities for meaningful industry change.
The event will gather over 1,000 stakeholders from fashion, policy, finance, innovation, and adjacent sectors to address regulatory, financial, and ideological hurdles facing the industry. Five pivotal forces Innovation, Capital, Courage, Incentives, and Regulation will serve as the summit’s guiding framework to shape fashion’s sustainable future.
Her Majesty The Queen of Denmark, a longstanding patron of GFA, will open the summit on 4 June and tour the Innovation Forum, which is set to be a major feature of this year’s edition. The forum will host a curated selection of solution providers from across the value chain, from next-gen materials to advanced end-of-use processes.
It will also showcase the shortlisted innovations from GFA’s Trailblazer Programme 2025, developed with PDS Ventures, highlighting three sustainability pillars: Working With Nature, Closed Loop Pathways, and Tech Powered Transformation. The winner will be announced on 5 June.
Confirmed speakers include leaders from Kering, Gucci, H&M Group, eBay, Ganni, Zalando, RE&UP, Visa Europe, The Lycra Company, UN Environment Programme, Cornell Global Labor Institute, Fair Labor Association, and Bangladesh Centre for Worker Solidarity.
The summit will feature a dynamic programme of sessions including ‘Innovation vs. Imitation: Fashion + A.I.’, ‘Electrify Everything? The Carbon Transition’, ‘Tariffs, Timelines and Transitions’, ‘Jobs with Dignity’, and ‘Who Cares? Closing the Consumer Gap’. Additionally, over 20 closed-door Leadership Roundtables will offer policymakers and industry leaders a platform for focused dialogue and tangible outcomes. Topics include ‘Bridging Bangladesh’s Circularity Deadlock’, ‘A People-Centric Transition’, and ‘Climate Adaptation in Luxury Value Chains’.
Federica Marchionni, CEO of GFA, stated that the 2025 edition comes at a critical juncture, emphasising the need to bridge gaps in an increasingly complex landscape and push forward a regenerative, inclusive, and innovative fashion ecosystem.
China National Garment Association (CNGA) will host the BIRD Fashion Fair 2025 from 11 to 13 June at the Shenzhen Convention & Exhibition Center (Futian), marking the country’s first international trade fair dedicated exclusively to innovation and progress in womenswear. Over 800 exhibitors from major fashion hubs Hangzhou, Shenzhen, Guangzhou, and Zhengzhou will showcase their latest collections across 34,000 square metres, alongside Intertextile Shenzhen apparel fabrics and Yarn Expo.
Held in the heart of the Greater Bay Area (GBA), one of China’s most dynamic economic regions, the fair highlights the region’s strength in fashion creativity, advanced manufacturing, and global trade connectivity. With cities like Shenzhen and Guangzhou at its core, the GBA is home to leading womenswear brands, cutting-edge designers, and specialised suppliers driving the integration of Chinese fashion into international markets.
BIRD 2025 positions itself as a strategic platform connecting Chinese and global markets under the theme Bold / Intelligent / Relentless / Design. It will span four halls, presenting a wide spectrum of womenswear dresses, blouses, knitwear, activewear, sun protection clothing, accessories, bags, shoes, scarves, hats, and belts.
Visitors can expect tailored business matching, high-end forums, curated fashion shows, and trend presentations. Leading companies will unveil their newest products and innovations. International guests will benefit from multilingual support, fast-track pre-registration with free admission, hotel bookings, and transport assistance.
With its strong emphasis on creativity, smart production, and international collaboration, BIRD 2025 aims to elevate China’s womenswear industry on the global stage, making Shenzhen a key destination for fashion-driven business.
