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Australia’s Cotton Research and Development Corporation and United State’s Cotton Incorporated are both members of the Sustainable Apparel Coalition (SAC) that held its annual conference in Copenhagen, this May. Representatives from both countries are working to ensure that sustainability messages for Australian and US cotton are understood by SAC members, many of whom are Cotton Leads partners.
Brooke Summers (Cotton Australia) and Allan Williams (CRDC) also spoke at the Planet Textiles conference about Australia’s sustainability credentials including the industry’s R&D portfolio. The SAC offers members a number of tools to assess the sustainability and social merits of various components in the textile supply chain including the raw materials that go into products (including cotton) and the factories that manufacture garments.
The HIGG index is gaining traction as a tool that essentially gives a score to factories, raw materials and brands across a number of modules. This tool is being used to assess which materials end up in products, with the data based on life cycle assessments provided by member organisations including Cotton Incorporated.
Cotton Incorporated, funded by US growers of upland cotton and importers of cotton and cotton textile products, is the research and marketing company representing upland cotton. The program is designed and operated to improve the demand for and profitability of cotton.
"The 12 Caribbean countries will have no structured trade relationship with Britain, once it finally leaves the EU. When Britain joined what was then the European Economic Community in 1973, it transferred all authority for its trade agreements to the community. Ever since then the formal trade, aid, and investment relations between the 12 Caribbean countries, has been with the EU. These relations were formalised successively in the Lome Convention, the Cotonou Agreement and the Economic Partnership Agreement (EPA)."
Other options have to be explored by the Caribbean countries for dealing with the twin problem of no formal trade relationship with Britain, and an existing EPA with the EU that is now skewered and ripe with problems.
The 12 Caribbean countries will have no structured trade relationship with Britain, once it finally leaves the EU. When Britain joined what was then the European Economic Community in 1973, it transferred all authority for its trade agreements to the community. Ever since then the formal trade, aid, and investment relations between the 12 Caribbean countries, has been with the EU. These relations were formalised successively in the Lome Convention, the Cotonou Agreement and the Economic Partnership Agreement (EPA).
Up to the time of British entry to the EU, trade between Britain and the 12 Caribbean countries was conducted under a Commonwealth preferences scheme. That scheme fell away once Britain joined the EU and negotiated the extension of some of those preferences to the English-speaking Caribbean by the European body.
End of trade agreements
Once Britain officially exits the EU, Caribbean countries will have no trade agreement with it. Indeed, Britain will have no formal trade agreements with any country, having subsumed its authority for trade matters to the EU. Its first task will be to negotiate trade terms with the remaining 27 EU members, hitherto its biggest trading partner. Those negotiations will not be easy. Britain will then have to try to formalise trade agreements with other countries. The United States will be uppermost in its priorities, but President Obama had warned during the debate on Brexit, that the UK market of 64 million people would not be high on the US agenda. The EU, with a population of 450 million (without Britain) was a far greater target.
Under any circumstance, a trade agreement with the 12 small, English-speaking Caribbean countries (total market of approximately seven million) will also not be high on Britain’s list.
However, even though these Caribbean countries have been notionally trading with the EU, the majority of their exports have been going to the British market. Now that the EU will no longer be representing Britain, the EPA will not cover trade with Britain. That is an issue, however much on the back burner it will be for Britain that will be important to the Caribbean - at least for trade in services, particularly tourism. British tourists comprise a significant number of the annual visitors to the region.
More worryingly, once Britain leaves the EU, there will be several troubling consequences for the 12 Caribbean countries. Not only will the British market disappear from the EU, but so too will the British contribution to official aid and investment. It is most unlikely that the 27 EU countries, which had no historical relationship with, or colonial responsibility for, the English-speaking Caribbean, will want to maintain the level of official aid and investment that now exists.
Importantly, it should be recognised that the EU-EPA is the only such formal comprehensive arrangement that Caribbean countries have with any other country or region of the world. It is vital to maintain as much of it as possible.
There had been some speculation in Britain during the Brexit debate that Britain could resuscitate trade among the 52 other Commonwealth countries. But that idea, rooted in empire, is not only impractical, but also would not reap for Britain the trade rewards it derives from the EU. Britain’s earnings from exports to the Commonwealth are not huge, representing only 9.76 per cent of its total exports in 2014, while its merchandise exports to the EU represented a hefty 45 per cent of its total exports.
Trade declined
However, total Commonwealth trade in goods has declined over the years. And, even its share of world trade is owed to the trading capacity of only six of the Commonwealth states - Singapore, India, Malaysia, Australia, Britain and Canada.
In 2014, the six countries accounted for 84 per cent of all Commonwealth exports; 47 countries combined, including South Africa and Nigeria, made up only 16 per cent. Not surprisingly, the 36 Commonwealth small states, including the 12 in the Caribbean, enjoy only a tiny share of Commonwealth exports.
As for the notion that Commonwealth countries could fashion a Commonwealth free trade agreement (FTA) under which they could give preferences to each other to expand intra-Commonwealth trade, while this is technically possible to make it compliant with World Trade Organization (WTO) rules, it is enormously difficult from a legal, administrative and even political standpoint. Certainly, Cyprus and Malta would have to leave the EU customs union.
The benefits of improved preferential access to all Commonwealth states within an FTA would be exploited by the major economies such as India, Malaysia and then by the developed Commonwealth countries Britain, Australia, and Canada. The Commonwealth’s 36 small states would not get much of a look-in.
The Caribbean countries will have to be explored other options for dealing with the twin problem of no formal trade relationship with Britain, and an existing EPA with the EU that is now skewered and ripe with problems.
"Sluggish demand, devaluation of currencies to blame. Bangladesh's knitwear exports to a number of European Union (EU) member-countries and some other non-traditional markets have been facing a setback in recent times. Exporters and experts have attributed this to a sluggish demand, change of rules of origin and devaluation of currencies in importing countries. Of 27 EU countries, knitwear exports to 10 including Denmark, Ireland, the Netherlands and Sweden witnessed a negative growth."
Sluggish demand, devaluation of currencies to blame.
Bangladesh's knitwear exports to a number of European Union (EU) member-countries and some other non-traditional markets have been facing a setback in recent times.
Exporters and experts have attributed this to a sluggish demand, change of rules of origin and devaluation of currencies in importing countries.
Of 27 EU countries, knitwear exports to 10 including Denmark, Ireland, the Netherlands and Sweden witnessed a negative growth.
Growth in exports to four other countries - Belgium, France, Germany and Romania - was slow, less than 4.0 per cent, during the first 11 months of the current fiscal year, according to official data.
Export earnings from knitwear during July-May period of Fiscal Year (FY) 2015-16 registered a 3.60 per cent growth with earnings of $2.35 billion in Germany, the single largest market for knitwear, data revealed.
Out of $11.92 billion export earnings from knitwear in July-May period of the current fiscal, $8.39 billion came from the EU markets. This accounted for 70.39 per cent of total knitwear earnings.
Knitwear exports registered a 5.46 per cent growth in EU markets during the same period. In FY 2013-14 and FY 2014-15, earnings from knitwear grew by 17.38 per cent and 1.90 per cent respectively.
Export earnings from non-traditional markets also faced setback as knitted items recorded negative growth by 38.79 per cent in Brazil, 4.98 per cent in China and 8.85 per cent in Turkey during the first 11 months of the current fiscal.
During the period, 5.92 per cent and 3.91 per cent slow growth persisted in Russia and South Africa respectively, according to data.
The country fetched $1.90 billion from knitwear exports from non-traditional markets including Australia, Brazil, Chile, China, India and Japan during the July-May period.
Knitwear makers, however, attributed the slow export growth to revised rules of origin by the EU, its sluggish economic trend and depreciation of euro against US dollar. Safeguard duty and high duty imposed by Turkey and Brazil also hindered exports.
Fazlul Hoque, former president of the Bangladesh Knitwear Manufacturers and Exporters Association (BKMEA), said, "The EU economies are yet to become stronger in recent years resulting in a declining trend in retail business there."
The sluggish demand has an adverse impact on our exports, he said.
Regarding China, Mr Hoque said business communication is not well established while there is also a lack of confidence.
Md Hatem, managing director of MB Knit Fashions Ltd, said, in recent times, prices of knit items declined in Europe.
The currencies in importing countries continued to depreciate while local currency is appreciating against US dollar. This also severely affected our competitive edge, he noted.
Moreover, severe energy crisis at home is also hampering production, he added.
Dr Khondaker Golam Moazzem additional research director of Centre for Policy Dialogue (CPD) said euro devaluation against US dollar affects mostly the knitwear makers as they use local raw materials like yarn and fabric.
The EU's revised rules of origin, an advantage for woven makers, have brought disadvantages for the local knitwear makers as it allows duty-free access for garment exporters even when they use imported fabrics.
The local knitwear makers are facing stiff competition with their competitors due to the EU revised rules of origin, he noted.
Mr Moazzem recommended exploring markets where rules of origin are still in favour of Bangladesh.
Political problem, economic recession and high duty in Brazil are responsible for the negative growth of garment exports, both knit and woven, in that market, said Shahidullah Azim a former leader of the Bangladesh Garment Manufacturers and Exporters Association (BGMEA).
Trade between Vietnam and Hong Kong has increased strongly in recent years.It was worth 16.3 billion dollars last year, a year-on-year increase of 16.7 per cent, with Vietnam’s exports accounting for 6.5 billion dollars. Its main export items were electronic and telecom equipment and parts; garments and textiles; footwear; seafood; rice; timber and timber products; and electrical cables.
Vietnam currently is Hong Kong’s ninth largest trading partner. As one of the leading trade and financial centers of the world, Hong Kong is a potential business partner that could also help Vietnamese companies link up with their global counterparts.
Food products, including seafood and vegetables, sell very well in Hong Kong. The island every year imports food worth 20 billion dollars, so a country like Vietnam has opportunities here.
Another opportunity for Vietnam is handicrafts and house ware.
For people in Hong Kong price is just one consideration. Quality is the most important, especially in food.
A delegation of garment and textile firms from Vietnam will visit an upcoming garment and textile fair in Hong Kong to market their products and connect with foreign businesses.
Hong Kong and Asean are negotiating for a free trade agreement, expected to be concluded by the end of this year, which promises to boost trade and investment between the two.
Cotton growers in Tanzania were happy with the POSO ( Point of Service Office) system as it stood as a solution to boosting trade and industrial sectors in the country. So said George Mpanduji, General Secretary, Tanzania Cotton Growers Association (TACOGA) reportedly. The system is already being supported by the government and GODTEC (T) Company Limited.
“We appreciate POSO system under the fifth phase of the government because the system has an objective to revive industries in order to reach the economical modernisation towards middle economy,” he went on to add. He said that through this system that facilitates entrepreneurships, it is obvious that will become a solution also to the cotton producers.
Mpanduji was of the view that TACOGA has been overwhelmed by several steps that have been taken by the current government administration.
Cotton farmers, who hoped of an early monsoon and acted well in advance in sowing the crop, are now in a tight spot as the rains have been playing truant.
It might be noted that except for some isolated rain activity in Warangal district, Andhra Pradesh, the district has mainly remained dry since the last few weeks. This is causing cotton seedlings to wither in large extent of land and has compelled farmers to feed the crop manually carrying water in buckets.
According to the agriculture officials, cotton is sown in around 60,000 acres across the district. Lured by early monsoon forecast and pre-monsoon rain activity, farmers went against the advice of agriculture officials and sowed the crop.
Going by the fact that nearly 50 per cent of 5.31 lakh hectares of cultivable land in the district are rain fed, farmers now have no option but to wait for rains to feed the crops. Here, the cotton crop would normally be taken up in around 2.4 lakh hectares.
Due to the scanty rainfall this month, the crop has been getting affected mainly in mandals like Narsampet, Mahabubabad, Mulug, Wardhannapet, Geesukonda, Sangem, Devaruppula, Narmetta, Maddur, Narsimhulapet and other districts.
Majority of the area, where the crop is already sown, requires re-sowing and this could lead to shortage of seeds as it would be difficult to procure the seeds urgently.
Pakistan’s exports to United Kingdom increased by 32.6 per cent from 2012 to 2014. UK exports to Pakistan fell by 19 per cent from 2012 to 2014.
Pakistan's main exports to the UK are bed linen, textile knitted or crocheted materials, toilet and kitchen linen rice, semi-milled or wholly milled, women’s trousers and shorts, men’s and boys’ shirts and rice husked.
UK's main exports to Pakistan are ferrous waste and scrap, iron and steel, semi diesel engines, artificial staple fibers, viscose, gas turbines, locomotive parts etc.
If the pound's value remains low, it may have two implications. Pakistan’s textile exports may shift to other EU countries without GSP Plus benefits. Second, with a cheaper pound, imports from the UK may increase. A weak euro will also have implications for Pakistani exports.
Pakistan may decide signing a free trade agreement with Britain after the country voted to leave the European Union as GSP Plus benefits may be threatened in the event that the country decides not to accord the same preferences.
In textiles, Pakistan would have to see whether the UK gives it the same access which it gives to competitors like Bangladesh, India, Turkey, China and Vietnam.
The UK could follow the model of Norway or Switzerland which means separate negotiations.
Thanks to soaring production costs in China coupled with a surge in labour wages, Myanmar's garment sector is emerging as the last low-cost production frontier for factory relocation and diversification in South East Asia.
This, along with the difficulty in hiring garment workers and the Chinese government's policy of upgrading its manufacturing sector with a strategic shift towards higher value-added industries, has driven many garment manufacturers in the Pearl River Delta (PRD) to relocate and diversify their factories to South East Asian countries such as Myanmar that have a reasonably good supply of lower-wage labour, according to a report by HKTDC Research.
At a competitive minimum wage of around $90 per month, Myanmar not only has a good supply of low wage labour but trade privileges such as the Generalised System of Preferences (GSP) in the EU, market and strategic location at the China-India intersection make it an increasingly popular among Chinese manufacturing companies, says the report titled 'Myanmar Rising: Opportunities in Asia's Final Production Frontier'.
With the grant of GSP benefits in 2013, the EU has become an increasingly important driver of garment export growth for Myanmar. In 2014, the EU roped in a 23 per cent share of Myanmar's total garment exports. With enhanced prospects of the US further relaxing sanctions and even granting GSP benefits, the Myanmar Garment Manufacturers Association (MGMA) anticipates that its garment sector will experience exponential growth in years ahead thus creating around 1.5 million new jobs from its current level of approximately 250,000 and generating $12 billion in export value by 2020.
Interestingly, Myanmar is a WTO member and its Most Favoured Nation (MFN) status allows it to export at low tariff rates to other member countries. Yet, preferential treatments seem to be more important in driving the growth of Myanmar's garment exports over the past few years. The country also offers lower import tariffs than many of its ASEAN peers, with the average MFN applied tariff at 5.6 per cent in 2013. Generally, the country's low import tariffs on items needed in the manufacturing process help the country keep its production cost-competitive relative to the neighbouring countries.
There has been a major dip in the demand for genetically modified Bt cotton seeds in India this kharif season. The seeds that were introduced by the US multinational Monsanto in 2002 were the mainstay of cotton farming since then.
This year there has been a sharp increase in the use of local varieties of cotton seeds instead of Bt in the northern states.
Bt cotton has resistance against bollworm pest, considered a major risk. But last year pink bollworm infestation was reported in Bt seeds too. This reduced the farmers' confidence.
Till two years ago Maharashtra had a market share of 1.60 crore bags of cotton seeds, of which 96 per cent was Bt. This shrunk to 1.40 crore bags last year. This kharif season it is expected to come down to 1.24 crore bags, almost all of it Bt seeds.
Poor yields and rates to cotton have made farmers turn to other crops like pulses, maize and soyabean.
At one time Bt seeds were available at a premium in the grey market. Now traders are offering them at a discount. As against the official rate of Rs 800 a bag traders, after deducting their margins, are selling it for Rs 750 to Rs 730.
“The global economy is in doldrums which in-turn has affected the growth of the national textile industry.” Minister of Industry, Indonesia Saleh Husin is reported to have said this during his visit to manufacturer brocade PT Sinar Para Taruna in Bandung, West Java. "As we know, the textile industry in the past two years is somewhat stagnant because of the global economic situation is difficult," he added.
And that is the reason why the government continues to undertake policy measures to encourage domestic industries to compete with imported products flooding the domestic market, he continued. He later went to observe that to achieve this, the government couldn’t move on its own, entrepreneurs too must join in.
Although Indonesia has had a stagnant industrial growth, but it still did good enough after a considerable good order from European countries. In 2015, the national textile industry recorded a growth of 5.26% while in this year, the target could be optimized to reach 5.7%.
Later Husin appreciated those at PT Sinar who have been regularly contributing to the growth of the textile industry of the country. He also hoped that the company would continue to carry out new innovations.
It is interesting to note that PT Sinar was launched way back in 1989 and has been occupying an area of the factory in West Bandung regency since 1993. The company currently has two plants with a total staff of about 1,500 people.
