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Bestseller brands Jack& Jones and VeroModa have collaborated since 2008 to design official collections for Danish Olympic and Paralympic athletes. This year, their collection introduces three new t-shirts featuring Spinnova fibres, marking VeroModa’s debut with this sustainable material.

These red and white t-shirts blend 30 per cent wood-based Spinnova, 65 per cent cotton, and 5 per centelastane, representing a milestone as the second batch of commercially launched products from Spinnova’s and Suzano’s joint venture, Woodspin.

Aligned with Bestseller’s sustainability initiative, Fashion FWD, the collection emphasizes materials with lower environmental impacts. The partnership with Spinnova underscores Bestseller’s commitment to integrating certified sustainable materials into their offerings.

Allan Jung Thorbøll, International Buying Manager at Jack& Jones, reflects on their innovative journey with Spinnova, aiming to expand its use across their garment lines.

Spinnova’s CEO TuomasOijala commends Bestseller’s leadership in sustainable fashion, highlighting their collaborative efforts to reduce emissions and promote climate-friendly practices in the industry.

Since initiating their partnership in 2020, Spinnova and Bestseller have progressively integrated Spinnova fibres into consumer products, with Jack& Jones pioneering trousers in 2022 and now expanding to include t-shirts in multiple colors as of April 2024.

  

The Tamil Nadu Handloom Weavers Co-operative Society (Co-optex) proposes to get geographical indication (GI) tag for five traditional varieties of handloom products, namely, the silk saris from Chinnalapatti; Koorainadu saris; Nagarcoil vaeti; Uuraiyur saris; and Gudiyatham lungis. The department has allocated ₹15 lakh.

R Gandhi, Minister of State for Handlooms and Textiles notes, the department also plans to set up a mini parks in Dindigul and Chinalampatti on the lines of the Kancheepurampark Becoming a profit-making venture, Co-optex has launched 18 showrooms in the last three years.

It currently has 154 showrooms, including 105 in the State and 49 outside the State. The department has proposed setting up a sales centre in Jaipur in Rajasthan at a cost of ₹66 lakh. In 2023-24, Co-optex’s sales rose to Rs 214.50 lakh from Rs 171.90 lakh in 2020-21. The department also proposes to conduct a detailed study for manufacture of sport-tech and athleisure dresses.

  

Elaborating on the organisations’ plans to establish an exclusive research facility for man-made fibers (MMF) and technical textiles in India, DrPrakashVasudevan, Director, SITRA, said, the facilitywill focus on creating specialty yarns and fabrics with unique features. It would use specialised fibers that can be customised based on end-application.

The South India Textile Research Association (SITRA)currently focuses on more value added textiles including synthetic textiles. The organisation has traditionally worked with cotton and itssuch as spinning, weaving, knitting, and processing. However, recently, it has shifted focus to synthetic textiles due to the changing requirements of the textile industry, strongly influenced by factors like cotton price fluctuations, market conditions, the need for diversification/ value addition. There is also an increasing demand for technical textiles.

Additionally SITRA also plans to set up an exclusive product development center by the end of this year. This facility will enable small-scale production of yarn, fabric, and dyeing with minimal quantities of fiber, which is particularly useful for expensive and exotic fibers.

  

Bain & Company’s Spring 2024 “Luxury Goods Worldwide Market Study” reveals a challenging start for the personal luxury goods market, declining by 1 per cent to 3 per centY-o-Y in the first quarter at current exchange rates. This follows a progressive slowdown in 2023, with 12 per cent growth in the first quarter, 8 per cent in the second, a 3 per cent decline in the third, and a slight 2 per cent increase in the fourth. Claudia D’Arpizio, Lead Author, states, as many brands are navigating a momentary crisis due to macroeconomic pressures and a polarised customer base, luxury brands need to rethink their value propositions to prioritize trust and connection with consumers.”

Despite the downturn, Bain projects modest growth of 0 per cent to 4 per cent in 2024, potentially reaching $388 to $403 billion (€362 to €376 billion). However, the report suggests that the luxury industry faces deeper challenges, including restrained GDP growth, geopolitical uncertainties, reduced consumer confidence, and shrinking disposable income.

Internally, Bain highlights weaknesses such as a loss of creativity, a supply-demand gap, declining trust in brands, and stagnant business models. Federica Levato, Co-author, emphasises on the need for luxury brands to rethink their value propositions to maintain and expand audience reach while delivering exceptional experiences across all price points.

While luxury brands introduce new collections, true innovation—conceiving and scaling new products and business models—is often lacking. Legacy brands like Hermès and Louis Vuitton, rooted in tradition, are slow to adapt to changes such as e-commerce. A Unity Marketing survey found that while 71 per cent of luxury executives value quality and 63 per cent craftsmanship, only 32 per cent consider innovation crucial to resilience.

A study by the Kearney Consumer Institute (KCI) recommends a customer-driven approach to innovation, emphasizing consumer needs, appropriate market speed, and delivery methods such as category diversification or new technology. KCI’s lead, Katie Thomas, suggests that luxury brands should learn from mass-market strategies, focusing on broader lifestyle approaches and ongoing experimentation in products and channels.

Thomas also stresses the importance of a structured feedback loop from frontline staff to executives and collaboration opportunities, like Loewe’s partnership with On Running. Ultimately, luxury brands must embrace innovation, prioritize consumer engagement, and adapt to navigate current market challenges successfully.

  

Inaugurated by Giriraj Singh, Union Minister for Textiles from June 25-27, 2024 in Dwarka, the 71st edition of the India International Garment Fair (IIGF) highlighted India’s capabilities in the global apparel industry.

Held at the Yashobhoomi Convention Centre, the event by the Apparel Export Promotion Council (AEPC) alongside major Indian garment association, the event was attended by many business owners and enterpreneurs including representatives from the Howrah-based kidswear brand Mimino.

Though the show’s organisers noted a lower than expected footfalls on the first day, the event overall received a positive response.

Featuring over 600 buyers from 50 countries, IIGF included several sessions on global trade challenges, manufacturing excellence, and sustainable fashion trends. The event also featured daily fashion shows displaying collections from various exhibitors.

Speaking at the show, Singh reaffirmed India’s dedication to strengthening the textile industry through strategic initiatives and partnerships, mentioning free trade agreements with over a dozen countries.

Overall, the fair served as a crucial platform for MSMEs in the textile sector to display their offerings and engage with international buyers, enhancing India's position in the global apparel market.

  

In its 2023 Comfort Report, footwear firm Crocs Inc highlights significant strides in corporate responsibility while acknowledging areas where it lags in sustainability. This third annual report underscores the company’s commitment to ‘Creating a More Comfortable World for All.’

Crocs has made progress in promoting a circular economy through its successful pilot of the ‘Old Crocs New Life’ takeback program. In 2024, this initiative, which repurposes collected shoes in any condition, was expanded to all retail locations and online customers across the continental United States.

As of August 2023, Crocs reported achieving a monthly average of 20 per cent bio-circular content in its Croslite compound, marking a milestone in material innovation. This advancement has contributed to meeting the company’s goals of a 50 per cent carbon reduction for the Classic Clog by 2030 and achieving Net Zero by 2040. The carbon footprint of the Classic Clog has reportedly been reduced by 6.1 per cent compared to 2021 levels.

However, Crocs’s timeline for reaching net zero emissions has faced criticism. Compared to initiatives like Copenhagen’s pledge for climate neutrality by 2025, the company’s 2040 target appears less ambitious. After acquiring HEYDUDE, Crocs adjusted its net-zero goal to 2030, citing challenges in reducing emissions across the expanded company.

  

Hong Kong Polytechnic University (PolyU) has partnered with Parisian fashion house Aelis Couture to introduce the Fall/Winter 2024/25 Couture Collection, unveiled during Paris Haute Couture Week on June 27, 2024. The collection features sustainable metal-coated textiles developed by PolyU, showcasing a blend of cutting-edge technology and luxury fashion.

Under the guidance of Kinor Jiang, PolyU's team created ultra-thin, nano-scale metal films applied to textiles without releasing pollutants. This non-aqueous process produced visually stunning yet eco-friendly materials. The standout piece is a gold and silver-coated sustainable silk organza with a metallic pearly sheen, maintaining traditional textile comfort and flexibility.

The collaboration highlights PolyU’s commitment to textile technology advancement and its practical applications in fashion. Christopher Chao, PolyU’s Vice President (Research and Innovation), emphasized the partnership as a prime example of bridging technology and artistry, bringing sustainable innovations to the forefront of couture fashion.

Sofia Crociani, founder of Aelis, lauded the collaboration, stemming from joint "sustainable lectures" by PolyU and the French Consulate in Hong Kong. She praised the innovative textiles for enabling new design explorations, marrying eco-conscious couture with technological expertise.

This partnership marks a significant moment in fashion, combining sustainability with luxury, and setting a new standard for future couture.

 

Fashion industry inches towards circularity but progress is slow Kearney Report

The fashion industry is baby steps towards a more sustainable future, but a significant shift towards circularity is still far off, reveals Kearney's latest report, the ‘2024 Circular Fashion Index’. This year's edition marks the fourth iteration of the index, which measures how effectively fashion brands extend the life cycle of their products. The report analyzes 235 global brands across various categories, assigning a Circular Fashion Index (CFX) score on a scale of 1 to 10.

Slight improvement, major room for growth

The headline finding reveals a modest improvement from 2023. The average CFX score across all brands rose by 8 per cent to 3.20 a mere 0.23 points higher than 2023. While this signifies progress, it also highlights the vast gap that remains between current practices and true circularity.

The report emphasizes that beyond the top 10 performers, none of the seven dimensions used to assess circularity – including use of recycled materials, repair services, and second-hand offerings – are being widely adopted.

Category leaders and encouraging shifts

However, there are some bright spots. The outdoor category achieved the highest overall CFX score, indicating a stronger focus on product durability and extended lifespan in this segment. Additionally, the report highlights positive movement within the affordable luxury market, which saw the most significant improvement in scores year-on-year.

Highlights from the report

Gradual improvement: The fashion industry is acknowledging the need for change. The average score increase signifies a collective shift towards circularity, albeit slow.

Top performers: The report highlights that the top 10 brands are leading the way in implementing circular practices. This suggests that significant progress is possible.

Category leaders: The Outdoor apparel category achieved the highest overall score, indicating a focus on garment durability and potentially longer life span.

Shifting gears: The report identifies the affordable luxury segment as demonstrating the most significant improvement. This suggests that a focus on circularity can be financially viable for a broader range of brands.

Regulations and redefining value

The report underscores the growing importance of circularity in fashion. Stringent regulations on sustainability are emerging in the EU and US, making circular practices not just environmentally responsible but commercially necessary. Beyond compliance, Kearney suggests that embracing circularity can unlock new value propositions for brands, fostering customer loyalty and differentiation in a competitive market.

Consumer confusion and brand action

The report doesn't shy away from addressing the challenge of consumer awareness. While many brands are taking initial steps, a significant knowledge gap persists among consumers regarding circular fashion options. Kearney emphasizes the need for brands to bridge this gap through clear communication and education around their circularity efforts.

The Kearney CFX report serves as a wake-up call for the fashion industry. While there's a start, significant work needs to be done. Investors, brands, and policymakers all have a role to play in creating a more circular fashion ecosystem. This will require not only innovation in garment design and production but also investment in infrastructure and education to shift consumer mindsets. The fashion industry has the potential to be a leader in sustainability. The 2024 CFX report highlights the path forward, but the industry must accelerate its efforts to achieve a truly circular future.

  

Europe's leading sustainable sourcing show, Source Fashion, is set to take place July 14th-16th at Olympia London. The event promises thought-provoking discussions on achieving sustainable practices within the fashion industry.

Each day focuses on a key theme: Day 1 explores collaboration and innovation, Day 2 dives into trends, legislation, and big-brand approaches, and Day 3 emphasizes education and certification.

Event Director Suzanne Ellingham highlighted the event's purpose, stating that Source Fashion aims to create a platform for addressing significant questions and fostering discussions about the future of fashion, sustainability, and better business practices. The agenda will bring together a diverse group of industry experts to discuss various challenges, including responsibility in fashion, legislation, certification, evolving trends, new materials and processes, transparency, and accountability.

Industry leaders will share their experiences and insights. Caryn Franklin MBE, a fashion activist, and Nick Beighton, former CEO of ASOS, will discuss the realities and challenges of implementing positive change.

Attendees can learn about tangible sustainability solutions from Jo Mourant, head of sustainability at Next Plc. A panel discussion will explore the potential of alternative materials to revolutionize sustainable fashion.

PepsiCo's design director, Hayley Shore, will share their commitment to reducing environmental impact and collaborating with sustainable designers, offering valuable lessons for both big brands and smaller businesses.

Fashion Futurist Geraldine Wharry will delve into the future of fashion infrastructure and supply chains. Sourcing expert Jack Stratten will discuss consumer trends and the role of AI in retail, providing inspiration for storytelling strategies.

The event will also address legal aspects with updates on environmental claims regulations from the Competition and Markets Authority (CMA). Additionally, attendees can learn about the Global Organic Textile Standard (GOTS) certification process.

Rounding out the program, a session on ethical sourcing essentials will equip attendees with the knowledge to navigate new regions and build a profitable sourcing strategy.

Source Fashion promises a platform for open dialogue on critical sustainability issues, fostering collaboration and progress within the fashion industry.

  

Fuelled by strategic investments and ambitious capacity expansion plans, GHCL Textiles plans to add 25,000 spindles with an investment of Rs. 215 crore by the second quarter of FY26, projecting a revenue increase of Rs 250 crore. This follows the successful installation of 40,000 spindles and 15 MW of renewable energy over the past two years. With revenue of Rs 1060 crores for FY24, GHCL Textiles aims to double its revenue within the next five years.

RSJalan, Non-Executive Director, GHCL Textiles, highlights the company's commitment to maintaining its status as a premium yarn manufacturer renowned for exceptional quality. The company continues to focus on catering to the specific needs of customers in the premium segment. The diverse product portfolio includes synthetic fiber, double yarn, open-end, and cotton yarn ranging from 24 to 120 counts, showcasing the company’s adaptability to dynamic market trends and reinforcing its competitive position.

Founded in 1927 as SreeMeenakshi Mills, the company began its modern journey with the acquisition of a distressed spinning unit in 2002. It has since transformed into one of India’s leading yarn manufacturers and exporters. In 2021, the GHCL Group demerged its Textile business into GHCL Textiles Limited and sold its Home Textiles Business to Indo Count. GHCL Textiles boasts state-of-the-art manufacturing infrastructure with advanced textile machinery. The company’s manufacturing capacity includes 2.25 lakh spindles, 3,320 rotors, 5,760 TFO drums, and 5 air jet spinning machines, with a total production capacity of 38,000 MTPA. Plans are underway to expand the product range and increase spinning capacity by 1.5 times.

The company is planning vertical integration of its textile manufacturing to include knitted and woven finished fabrics, which yield superior margins and integrate seamlessly with the existing business. GHCL Textiles has announced a total investment of Rs 1,045 crore, with Rs. 350 crores already invested in adding 40,000 spindles, Rs. 250 crore currently being invested to add 25,000 spindles, and another Rs. 500 crore planned for vertical integration in the coming years.

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