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The apparel industry, like many others, is experiencing a paradigm shift in its export dynamics to the US. Driven by factors like rising costs in traditional hubs, changing consumer preferences, and geopolitical tensions there is a shift towards new players and product categories. This shift is driven by many factors.
Diversification on the rise
While China remains the dominant player, its share has shrunk from 42 per cent in 2019 to 35 per cent in 2022 says OTEXA data. Vietnam (20 per cent), Bangladesh (17 per cent), India (7 per cent), and Mexico (5 per cent) are gaining ground, driven by factors,
Rising production costs is a major factor. As labor costs in traditional apparel manufacturing hubs like China are increasing, they are becoming less competitive. Also, the ongoing trade war between the US and China has disrupted supply chains and encouraged diversification. And deals like CPTPP and TPP (TPP-11) benefit Southeast Asian nations. Consumers too are increasingly demanding sustainable, ethical, and locally-made products. Vietnam's impressive growth for example is attributed to its lower labor costs, trade agreements with the US, and focus on attracting foreign investment. And automation and digitalization are changing production processes and logistics.
Table Top Apparel Exporters to the US (Value in Billion US$)
| Country | 2022 | 2021 | 2020 | Change (2020-22) |
| China | 57.0 | 64.4 | 56.0 | +1.7% |
| Vietnam | 32.1 | 32.6 | 25.4 | +26.4% |
| Bangladesh | 27.5 | 22.6 | 19.5 | +41.5% |
| India | 11.1 | 12.6 | 10.5 | +5.7% |
| Mexico | 8.5 | 8.4 | 6.6 | +28.8% |
Product Diversity: Beyond the Basics
Within categories too there is a shifts. Menswear for example has seen more athleisure and casual wear, driven by work-from-home trends. In women’s wear too athleisure, sustainable fabrics, and personalized styles gain traction. Dresses, tops, and jeans continue to be popular, with increasing demand for sustainable and ethical fashion. And in kidswear the focus is on comfort, playfulness, and sustainability. Eco-friendly fabrics are driving growth.
Knitwear remains the largest category, but faces competition from athleisure in other segments. Denimwear witnesses consistent growth, led by demand for sustainable and innovative denim. Outerwear experiences a significant jump, likely due to changing weather patterns and increased outdoor activities.
Segment Focus: Premium takes the lead
Premium and value segments saw contrasting fortunes. Premium category grew 12 per cent in 2022 as per Euromonitor, driven by rising disposable incomes and demand for quality products. For example, Patagonia, a US-based premium outdoor apparel brand, showcases the success of ethical and sustainable practices. Its commitment to environmental responsibility resonates with consumers and drives strong growth. Value segment on the other hand declined 3 per cent due to inflation and consumer shifts towards quality over price.
Future outlook
The US apparel market is expected to reach $335 billion by 2025. The key trends shaping the future include:
Shifting sourcing: Southeast Asian countries like Vietnam and Bangladesh will likely continue to gain market share.
Focus on sustainability: Consumers will prioritize eco-friendly materials and ethical production practices.
Direct-to-consumer (DTC) models: Brands will increasingly sell directly to consumers, bypassing traditional retail channels.
Personalization and customization: Consumers will demand more personalized products and experiences.
Note: Data collated from various sources
Tamil Nadu, long a powerhouse in India's textile industry, has faced challenges maintaining its competitive edge against rival states with more attractive textile policies. However, recent announcements in the state budget aim to rejuvenate its textile sector and uphold its status as a leader in textile and clothing manufacturing nationwide.
S.K. Sundararaman, Chairman of The Southern India Mills’ Association (SIMA), commended the proactive approach of Tamil Nadu's leadership, including Chief Minister Thiru M.K. Stalin, Finance Minister Thiru Thangam Thennarasu, and Handlooms and Textiles Minister Thiru R. Gandhi, for heeding SIMA's suggestions.
Notably, the announcement of 6 per cent interest subsidy for modernizing the spinning segment, with a significant budget allocation of Rs 500 crores, stands out as a crucial measure to revitalize an industry grappling with unprecedented challenges. Sundararaman emphasized the urgency of this subsidy, especially considering that a substantial portion of Tamil Nadu's spinning capacity is over 15 years old.
Additionally, the increase in special capacity subsidies from 15 per cent to 25 per cent for technical textiles and MMF fabric and apparel manufacturing, including recycled products, underscores the state's commitment to fostering innovation and sustainability in line with global demands. This move is expected to not only incentivize local investors but also attract foreign investments, positioning Tamil Nadu as a hub for future-oriented industries.
The budget's focus on infrastructure development, such as the allocation of funds for various textile parks and research centers across different districts, promises to generate employment opportunities, particularly benefiting rural areas and marginalized groups.
Sundararaman praised initiatives like the establishment of integrated complexes and incentives for new units employing physically challenged individuals and transgenders, emphasizing the inclusive approach towards job creation.
Furthermore, the vision to increase renewable energy generation and host a global startup summit reflects Tamil Nadu's commitment to environmental sustainability and economic growth through innovation and international collaboration.
The budget's emphasis on skill development, IT infrastructure, and manufacturing facilities signals a holistic approach towards creating a conducive environment for business growth and job creation across sectors.
In summary, Tamil Nadu's state budget represents a comprehensive strategy to revitalize the textile sector, foster innovation, and create inclusive growth opportunities, positioning the state as a frontrunner in India's economic resurgence.
In a landmark move, the Leather Working Group (LWG) and the ZDHC Foundation have announced a pioneering collaboration today. This partnership aims to revolutionize sustainable leather manufacturing by aligning the ZDHC Roadmap to Zero Programme with the LWG audit standard, simplifying sustainable chemical management for leather manufacturers.
The collaboration is set to standardize regulations across key areas such as the ZDHC Manufacturing Restricted Substances List (MRSL), wastewater, and air emissions. Focusing on the implementation of the LWG Audit Standard and ZDHC Supplier to Zero and InCheck Solutions, the initiative aims to streamline processes for manufacturers.
Janne Koopmans, Collaborations Director at ZDHC, expressed optimism about the partnership, stating, "Through this powerful synergy with LWG... we pave the way for a sustainable future." The collaboration seeks to alleviate the compliance burden on leather manufacturers while promoting responsible chemical management practices.
Stuart Cranfield, Director of Standards and Assurance at LWG, emphasized the collective effort towards sustainability, stating, "Together, we stride towards a more sustainable leather manufacturing industry worldwide."
This collaboration sets a precedent for industry cooperation in addressing critical sustainability challenges. ZDHC encourages other organizations to follow suit, advocating for partnerships that align with shared goals and streamline processes. Together, these efforts signify a shift towards a responsible, sustainable future.
The latest report from the Economics Department of ACIMIT reveals a stable performance in the Italian textile machinery sector during the fourth quarter of 2023, with the orders index maintaining parity with the same period in 2022.
Despite a notable 18 per cent decline in domestic orders, a 4 per cent increase in orders from foreign markets offset the downturn. The index for foreign markets stood at 77.9 points, contrasting with 126.2 points domestically.
Overall, the average order backlog secured 3.7 months of production. However, the year-end results for 2023 depict a 25 per cent decline in the index compared to 2022, indicating a challenging year for the industry.
ACIMIT President Marco Salvadè acknowledged the persisting weakness in domestic demand but noted a slight uptick in international orders. Salvadè attributed these fluctuations to ongoing global geopolitical uncertainties.
While Italian exports to key markets such as China, Turkey, India, and the United States experienced a decline in the first nine months of 2023, Salvadè remains cautiously optimistic about a potential reversal in fortunes for 2024, anticipating a consolidation of the positive trend observed in the fourth quarter of 2023.
The third installment of Source Fashion, Europe’s foremost responsible sourcing exhibition, kicked off with a bang, boasting its largest and most diverse array of manufacturers, suppliers, and artisans from over 20 countries. The event, held at Olympia London, featured a special appearance and keynote discussion by renowned British fashion designer Patrick McDowell, whose captivating collection, 'Marie Antoinette Goes to Liverpool', graced the Source Fashion Catwalk.
At the heart of Source Fashion lies a commitment to responsible fashion practices, aiming to foster positive change within the retail industry. Suzanne Ellingham, Director of Sourcing at Source Fashion, emphasized the event's mission to facilitate better business practices and serve as a catalyst for ethical transformation within the fashion realm. Ellingham stated, "Our purpose is to create a safe buying space for buyers and to bring good, reliable manufacturers and suppliers from around the world to Olympia London."
Connecting the global sourcing community
With a focus on forging connections and fostering innovation, Source Fashion serves as a hub for the global sourcing community. The event brings together a diverse array of material suppliers, artisans, and manufacturers dedicated to crafting exceptional quality garments in an ethically conscious manner. Leading brands and retailers, including Canada Goose, Swarovski, and John Lewis, among others, converged at the exhibition to explore new opportunities and engage in meaningful dialogue.
Prominent figures within the fashion industry, such as Touker Suleyman of Low Profile Holdings and visitor Antonio De Pasquale, lauded Source Fashion for its role in facilitating invaluable networking opportunities and promoting sustainable practices. Exhibitors, like Ettos, a textile traceability platform, expressed optimism about the growing interest in product traceability and transparency.
A highlight of this year's event was the debut of the Source Luxury section, featuring a curated selection of premium exhibitors showcasing high-quality garments and fabrics. From UK-based material suppliers to off-shore exhibitors, Source Fashion provided attendees with access to an extensive range of sourcing options, including near-shore and luxury materials.
Sustainable fashion takes center stage
The Source Catwalk Stage showcased a sustainable and immersive catwalk experience, featuring designs that embody the ethos of responsible fashion. Patrick McDowell's collection, inspired by 'Marie Antoinette Goes to Liverpool', seamlessly merged classic silhouettes with contemporary twists, underscoring the designer's commitment to sustainability and storytelling.
The event also offered attendees a glimpse into the future of fashion, with insightful talks by industry experts such as fashion futurist Geraldine Wharry. Wharry emphasized the importance of embedding future foresight into current practices and highlighted emerging trends, including AI transparency and the shift towards sustainable business models.
As Source Fashion enters its second day, attendees can look forward to a lineup of engaging sessions covering topics ranging from retail transparency to the circular economy. Suzanne Ellingham expressed her satisfaction with the turnout on day one and anticipates continued success throughout the remainder of the event.
Source Fashion stands as a vital platform for the fashion community, offering a unique opportunity to engage with industry leaders, discover innovative sourcing solutions, and champion responsible fashion practices. As the event continues to evolve, it remains a beacon of inspiration and collaboration for those committed to shaping a more sustainable future for the fashion industry.
The Texworld Apparel Sourcing Paris trade shows for the fashion industry concluded their latest edition on a positive note, with a broader, more diversified, and accessible offer. Despite increasing industry requirements, visitor numbers remained stable during the event held from February 05-07, 2024 at the Paris Expo Porte de Versailles.
Over the course of three days, nearly 8,000 visitors engaged with 1,300 weaving and clothing companies from 25 countries across the two levels of Hall 7. This concentration of international companies in Europe surpassed that of February 2019, highlighting the central role of European markets in the global fashion industry. Notably, buyers from the Euromed zone, including France, the UK, Italy, Turkey, and Spain, comprised a significant portion of the visitor structure, emphasizing the importance of the Parisian event as a nexus for designers, buyers, and suppliers.
Stylists like Agathe Coudert of the George Rech brand utilise Texworld to select fabrics from France and Eastern Europe while supplementing their needs at Apparel Sourcing with more intricate finished products like knitwear and silk blouses. For exhibitors, such as Oracle Textile Technology from China and Liberty Mills from Pakistan, the event provides a platform to showcase new products and engage with customers.
Furthermore, the trade shows are adapting to market changes by making the international offer increasingly accessible and emphasising sustainability. Initiatives like Texpertise Econogy focus on promoting sustainable products across textile fairs worldwide, reflecting a growing trend towards environmental consciousness in the industry.
To reflect evolving sourcing trends and brand universes, Texworld Evolution Paris has been rebranded as Texworld Apparel Sourcing Paris, accompanied by a new dual baseline. The next edition of the event, scheduled from July 01 to 03, 2024 at Porte de Versailles, will continue to showcase a selective range of products, emphasizing the convergence between textiles and finished goods.
This upcoming session will also be independent of the Paris 2024 Olympic Games, ensuring undivided attention towards Texworld Apparel Sourcing Paris and its role as a leading platform for the fashion industry.
The downturn in the global economy has led to a decline in Bangladesh's apparel exports, particularly to its largest market, the European Union, where receipts dropped by over 20 per cent in the past calendar year.
According to data from Eurostat, Bangladesh's RMG export earnings from the EU totaled €17.38 billion in 2023, marking a significant decrease of 20.65 percent from the 2022 earnings of €21.91 billion. Exporters attribute this decline to high inflation and rising interest rates globally, which have dampened consumer demand, resulting in an inventory glut in Western retail stores and a reluctance among buyers to place new orders.
Official figures from Eurostat indicate that both knitwear and woven wear exports from Bangladesh to the EU declined in 2023. Knitwear exports fell to €10.64 billion from €13.95 billion in 2022, while woven items earned €6.74 billion, down from €7.95 billion in 2022. Overall EU imports of apparel from the world also decreased by 16.22 per cent to €83.19 billion in 2023 from €99.29 billion in 2022.
Bangladesh's key competitors, China and Turkey, also experienced negative growth in their exports to the EU market in 2023. Largest market for Bangladesh's clothing exports, Germany witnessed a 17 per cent decrease in shipments last year, according to Md Shahidullah Azim, Vice President, BGMEA. He attributes this decline to increased inflation and interest rates due to ongoing wars, which have led to swelling apparel inventories and reduced-rate work orders from buyers.
Despite these challenges, Azim notes a slight improvement in retail sales in December, following Christmas, which has led to a decrease in inventory levels and raised hopes for a turnaround in the industry. He mentions an increase in inquiries and work orders from buyers in recent times, expressing optimism for increased exports from April onwards.
Fazlul Hoque, Former President, BKMEA, links the decline in shipments to sluggish demand amid the economic crisis. He acknowledges that factories faced reduced work orders, leading to early closures and an inability to work overtime.
Looking ahead, exporters anticipate a potential improvement in the work-order situation in the coming months, although the full effects may not be seen for another five to six months. Eurostat statistics show similar declines in apparel exports from China, Turkey, Vietnam, and India to the EU in 2023, reflecting a broader trend of decreased demand in the Western fashion market.
European countries dominate the global fashion landscape, boasting six of the biggest fashion companies. As per a new report by McKinsey & Co, the United States follows closely with four, while Japan and Canada each claim one.
At the forefront stands LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton (LVMH), a colossal entity towering over its competitors with a market capitalisation of $421.6 billion. LVMH's extensive portfolio encompasses illustrious luxury brands such as Marc Jacobs, Givenchy, Fendi, and Dior, the latter of which holds a significant 41 per cent ownership stake in the conglomerate.
In a notable turn of events in 2024, Bernard Arnault, Chairman, LVMH ascended to the title of the world's wealthiest individual, surpassing Elon Musk.
Following LVMH is the American giant Nike. Notably, 68 per cent of Nike's revenue in 2023 stemmed from footwear, with the iconic Jordan Brand raking in approximately $5 billion annually.
Other noteworthy names in the list include Inditex, the Spanish powerhouse behind Zara and several other brands, and Fast Retailing, the Japanese holding company presiding over Uniqlo, Theory, and Helmut Lang.
McKinsey & Company forecasts a modest dip in the growth trajectory of the fashion industry from the previous year’s 5 per cent to 7 per cent to this year’s 2 per cent to 4 per cent. The report attributes this to subdued economic conditions and weakened consumer confidence, though the luxury segment is poised to remain a significant contributor to economic profit.
Shot by photographer Mert Alas, Calvin Klein latest campaign with Jung kook to launch the brand’s Spring 2024 collection captured the essence of popstar’s global status, where he exudes natural confidence while commanding the iconic Grand Central Station in the brand's new Jeans styles.
The Spring 2024 jeans collection by Calvin Klein redefines wardrobe essentials with youthful energy and minimalist design codes. It includes the 90s straight fit Jeans that offer a nostalgic twist on denim classics. The oversized monogram T-shirt elevates a staple with a subtle Calvin Klein monogram logo.
Launched February 16, on calvinklein.com, the campaign unfolded on @calvinklein social channels throughout the week. Jung Kook's images also graced out-of-home placements worldwide. This season's campaign delved deeper into Calvin Klein's world, spotlighting culture-shaping talents like Jung Kook in moments that emphasise individuality, confidence, and the full Calvin Klein lifestyle.
Renowned for its outdoor legacy and commitment to innovation since its inception in 1973, Timberland has unveiled the eagerly awaited Motion Range collection, catering to both nature enthusiasts and urban adventurers alike. This unisex line of outdoor footwear, apparel, and accessories is meticulously crafted to deliver comfort, mobility, and performance across diverse outdoor terrains.
The flagship of the collection, the Motion Scramble footwear, showcases the TimberCush Comfort System and TimberGrip Lug Outsole technology. Engineered with premium materials like waterproof Timberland Leather and Cordura® fabric, these shoes offer unparalleled comfort and over 180 degrees of sole grips, ensuring superior traction, mobility, and durability during challenging hikes.
In alignment with its commitment to sustainability, Timberland introduces the GreenStride midsoles, comprising at least 65 per cent biobased materials, thus ensuring eco-consciousness without compromising performance. The Motion Range extends to apparel with highlights such as the Caps Ridge Waterproof Motion Jacket, featuring a 3D motion pattern for optimal mobility and crafted from DryVent™ fabric made from 100 per cent recycled polyester.
Moreover, the collection ventures beyond footwear and jackets, introducing innovative garments like the Baxter Peak Motion Stretch Pant and the Women’s Trail Tight. These pieces incorporate ergonomic construction and enhanced stretch, providing unisex styling options while utilising recycled materials and water-resistant treatments as part of Timberland's circular strategy.
Timberland's dedication to functionality extends to accessories, including the MiiR water bottle and satchel side bag, designed to complement the outdoor lifestyle. Just as enthusiasts of the iconic Yellow Boot cherish the accompanying dog tag, Timberland ensures that functionality is ingrained in every accessory.
With the launch of The Motion Range collection, Timberland seamlessly integrates its mission to inspire outdoor exploration and environmental stewardship into the fabric of its iconic label. The collection embodies a steadfast commitment to innovation, sustainability, and adventure, catering to the aspirations of nature lovers and urban explorers alike. Scheduled for release in the Fall of 2024, new styles will be available online at timberland.com and in Timberland stores, offering fresh avenues for exploration and self-expression.
