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RMIT University researchers have launched an initiative to enhance fabrics with nanodiamonds, aiming to expedite the body's cooling process. Through a technique called electrospinning, they found that fabric treated with nanodiamonds could lower temperatures by 2-3 degrees Celsius compared to untreated cotton.
Shadi Houshyar, Project Head and Senior Lecturer, RMIT, says, this technology could be used in numerous applications such as making innovative materials for sportswear and personal protective equipment like firefighter underlayers.
Additionally, the study reveals, nanodiamond-coated cotton provides improved UV protection, making it suitable for outdoor summer attire.
Houshyar emphasises, the integration of nanodiamonds into fabrics could potentially reduce the need for air conditioning, resulting in energy savings of 20-30 per cent.
Spearheaded by the Centre for Materials Innovation and Future Fashion (CMIFF), the research comprises RMIT engineers and textile researchers renowned for crafting next-generation smart textiles. Aisha Rehman, Research Assistant, RMIT, explains, nanodiamonds were selected for their robust thermal conductivity properties.
The renowned trade fair for the laundry, dry cleaning, and textile service industry, Texcare International is generating significant anticipation within the sector.
Scheduled to reconvene in Frankfurt am Main from November 6 to 9, 2024, this event by Messe Frankurt has already garnered substantial interest from global stakeholders.
With nine months remaining until the opening, 247 companies hailing from 30 countries have already registered for the exhibition. The surge in registrations underscores the industry’s eagerness for this event.
Many market leaders are poised to leverage this premier platform to unveil their latest innovations to a diverse international audience, says Johannes Schmid-Wiedersheim, Director, Texcare.
This year, in addition to established machinery, chemical, and textile manufacturers, Texcare will also feature new players from robotics and IT sectors, promising attendees a comprehensive insight into textile care advancements across product categories.
Texcare 2024 will be hosted in Hall 8 and the Galleria, maintaining a layout similar to its previous iteration. Notable exhibitors such as Alliance Laundry, Christeyns, Danube, and others have already confirmed their participation , ensuring a diverse showcase of industry offerings.
Elgar Straub, Managing Director, VDMA Textile Care, Fabric, and Leather Technologies, emphasises Texcare 2024 holds great significance amidst industry challenges, including regulatory shifts, labor shortages, and geopolitical uncertainties. The event will focus on key themes such as digitalisation and automation to enhance operational flexibility, sustainability, and quality.
Andreas Schumacher, Managing Director, German Textile Cleaning Association, says, physical interaction plays an important role in the industry, especially amid rising costs and labor scarcities. Texcare's role as a catalyst for innovation and collaboration among industry stakeholders remains pivotal, he adds.
The event's agenda encompasses an array of products and services tailored to commercial laundries, textile service providers, dry cleaners, as well as sectors like hospitality, healthcare, etc.
Texcare International 2024 will spotlight solutions to prevailing challenges such as labor shortages and emphasise the role of digital technologies in streamlining operations. The event will focus on themes like circular economy, energy efficiency, and textile hygiene will also feature prominently, reflecting the industry's commitment to sustainability and innovation.
Citing soaring energy prices and poor policies, textile exporters in Pakistan have accused the interim government of intruding into economic matters and causing a disaster.
Muhammad Jawed Bilwani, Chief Coordinator, Value-Added Textile Forum; Mubashar Naseer Butt, Chairman, Pakistan Readymade Garments Manufacturers & Exporters Association (PRGMEA); Muhammad Usman, Towel Manufacturers & Exporters Association and Khalid Majeed, Chairman, Denim Manufacturers & Exporters Association jointly held the interim setup for the economic downturn.
According to them, repeated gas and electricity price increases, coupled with a weak rupee, have escalated input costs and stifled manufacturing growth.
The industry faces gas cuts twice a week with high discount rate of 22 per cent, and expensive export financing. Exports have plunged by 12.71 per cent Y-o-Y, falling short of the target by 16.61 per cent.
Many exporters have stopped production or fear closure due to unviable trade conditions. Gas tariffs have risen by a staggering 191 per cent, with exporters forced to pay a premium compared to other sectors.
Many of the exporters have also accused the government of planning further gas price hikes and lacking industry representation in regulatory bodies. They have urged the Prime Minister to intervene, meet with stakeholders, and find solutions to the energy crisis plaguing the textile industry.
The Indian textile industry, once a global powerhouse, is facing significant challenges. Declining exports, ailing infrastructure, and fierce competition threaten its future. In a recent report, a Parliamentary Committee recognized the need for urgent action and called for a comprehensive National Textile Policy (NTP) to revitalize the sector. As per the Minister of Textiles, Government of India, "The textile industry is a vital contributor to our economy and job creation. A new National Textile Policy is essential to address the challenges and unlock the sector's full potential."
The need for a new policy
To begin with, India's textile and apparel exports have fallen by 11 per cent in the last five years as per Textile Ministry data. This decline is attributed to factors like rising production costs, outdated technology, and inadequate infrastructure. Over 100 textile units are currently classified as ‘sick’ impacting thousands of jobs and hindering industry growth. The industry struggles to compete with countries like Bangladesh and Vietnam due to lower labor costs and policy advantages. Also, the lack of a unified policy hinders progress
Table: Statistical overview
India's Textile and Apparel Exports: $42.4 billion in 2022-23
Number of Textile Mills: 2,500+.
Job Creation in Textile sector: 4.5 crore+
Then there is the issue of past policy limitations. The outdated National Textile Policy formulated in 2000, is outdated and lacks a holistic approach. Multiple state policies create inconsistencies and hinder national-level planning. Varying support across states creates an uneven playing field. Inadequate power supply, poor transportation networks, and limited access to quality raw materials hinder efficiency and raise production costs. Shortage of skilled workers, especially in technical areas, impedes innovation and productivity.
Stopping the export slide
There is an urgent need to limit the export slide. The focus needs to be on value-added products. Shift from basic textiles to technical textiles, functional apparel, and design-driven segments. Also, there is a need for fresh Free Trade Agreements (FTAs). Better trade deals with key markets to reduce tariffs and boost exports. Need for investing in automation, modernization, and R&D to improve efficiency and product quality. And building strong brands and promoting Indian textiles globally.
Strengthening ‘Make in India’
Another reason for a new policy is to attract investments. Create investor-friendly policies, infrastructure development, and single-window clearances. Establishing PM MITRA parks with integrated infrastructure and support services can attract investments and create job opportunities. Streamlining regulations, reducing bureaucratic hurdles, and providing single-window clearance can attract domestic and foreign investors
Self-reliance in raw materials
Promote domestic sourcing and reduce dependence on imported raw materials and encourage local production. Promote high-yielding cotton varieties, improve farming practices, and reduce wastage. Encourage domestic production of synthetic fibers like polyester and nylon. Promote sustainable sourcing and recycling of raw materials. Implement comprehensive training programs to create a skilled workforce. Ensure adherence to environmental and labor regulations to meet international quality demands. "Skilling and reskilling the workforce is crucial for the industry to compete globally and achieve self-reliance," points out President, Confederation of Indian Industry - Textiles Committee
The Indian textile industry stands at a crossroads. A comprehensive National Textile Policy, coupled with focused action on modernization, skill development, and self-reliance, can be the thread that weaves a brighter future for the sector. By addressing the limitations of existing policies and implementing strategic solutions, India can regain its position as a global textile leader.
The textile industry, a crucial spoke in India and China’s GDP economic growth, has become a battleground for anti-dumping duties (ADD), raising concerns about business losses and the future of trade relations.
Tit for tat ADDs
Both India and China have imposed ADD on imports from each other. For example India in 2021, imposed ADDs on Chinese viscose staple fiber (VSF), citing dumping margins of 3.71per cent to 15.72 per cent. This led to a 7 per cent decline in VSF imports from China, impacting garment manufacturers reliant on affordable Chinese VSF. Similarly, China in 2022 imposed ADDs on Indian cotton yarn, alleging dumping margins of 3.1 per cent to 7.2 per cent. This resulted in a 25per cent drop in Indian cotton yarn exports to China, impacting Indian spinning mills. As Amitabh Yadav, President, Clothing Manufacturers Association of India (CMAI) opines, "These ADDs are protectionist measures that distort trade and harm consumers."
| Year | India's ADDs on Chinese textile imports (in $million) | China's ADDs on Indian textile imports (in $million) |
| 2021 | 203.24 | 231.57 |
| 2022 | 251.43 | 278.92 |
| 2023 (YTD) | 112.37 | 145.21 |
Source: World Trade Organization (WTO) Trade Statistics Database
Reasons for ADDs
Several factors lead to the imposition of ADDs. On major reason is protecting domestic industries. Countries like India and China use ADDs to shield their domestic textile industries from allegedly unfair competition from foreign players. ADD investigations based on complaints from domestic industries alleging unfair trade practices look at key factors like: Dumping or selling goods below their normal value in an export market; evidence that the dumped imports harm the domestic industry; Proof that the dumping caused the injury. Trade disputes can sometimes be fuelled by broader political and economic conflicts as well.
The other reason is correcting unfair trade practices. ADDs aim to counter dumping, where a country exports goods at prices below their domestic market value, harming domestic producers in the importing country. ADDs aim to level the playing field by raising the price of dumped imports, making them less competitive with domestic products. Proponents argue that ADDs protect jobs in domestic industries threatened by unfairly priced imports. As an Indian yarn manufacturer says, "The anti-dumping duty on Chinese yarn impacted our raw material costs, forcing us to raise prices and lose some customers to cheaper competitors."
Case for India and China ADDs
The impact of these duties is evident in trade figures and industry reports for both India and China. India's imports of Chinese viscose staple fibre fell by 40 per cent in 2022, while China's imports of Indian polyester textured yarn declined by 25per cent. Indian textile exports facing anti-dumping duties in China experienced a 10-15 per cent drop in value.
Indeed, anti-dumping duties offer temporary relief to domestic industries, but their long-term consequences for trade relations and global competitiveness can be detrimental. The use of ADDs in the India-China textile trade is a complex issue with significant economic and political implications. ADDs can protect domestic industries, they also have negative consequences for businesses and consumers.
Both India and China need to engage in constructive dialogue and explore alternative solutions to protect their industries without jeopardizing wider economic interests. Open communication, transparent investigations, and adherence to WTO rules is key to navigating this complex situation and ensuring a sustainable future for the textile industry. Finding a balance between protecting domestic interests and promoting fair trade remains a crucial challenge for both countries.
The Lenzing Group, a prominent global producer of regenerated cellulosic fibers, has announced a significant update to its climate targets in alignment with the Paris Agreement's objectives. Verified by the Science Based Targets Initiative (SBTi), Lenzing is now the sole producer in its industry with scientifically endorsed net-zero goals.
With a commitment to limiting the human-induced global temperature rise to 1.5 degrees Celsius, Lenzing aims to slash its direct emissions (scope 1) and those from purchased energy (scope 2) by 42 per cent by 2030, along with a 25 per cent reduction in indirect emissions (scope 3) from the 2021 baseline. This represents a substantial increase from previous targets, with an absolute reduction goal of 1.1 million tons, up from 700,000 tons.
Lenzing's CEO, Stephan Sielaff, emphasized the company's dedication to driving positive change in the textile and nonwovens industries while ensuring long-term success. Echoing this sentiment, Christian Skilich, Chief Pulp Officer and Chief Technology Officer, highlighted Lenzing's pivotal role in meeting the 1.5 degree limit and affirmed their commitment to continuous investment in energy efficiency and technological advancements.
Recognized by the SBTi, Lenzing's updated targets encompass a net-zero commitment by 2050 and near-term goals for significant emissions reductions by 2030. These targets replace previous ones set in 2019 and underscore Lenzing's proactive approach to combatting climate change.
The company is implementing sustainable measures to achieve these targets, including substantial investments in converting and modernizing production sites in Asia. Notably, Lenzing is transitioning its facilities in China and Indonesia to 100 per cent renewable energy sources and investing in energy independence and emissions reduction at Austrian sites.
Through initiatives like acquiring biomass power plants and securing long-term wind power contracts, Lenzing demonstrates a robust commitment to sustainable practices and environmental stewardship in its operations.
Intertextile, China's premier fabrics trade show, is set to return on March 6-8 at Shanghai's National Exhibition and Convention Centre, marking a significant revival in the wake of China's abandonment of its zero-Covid policy, which previously restricted access for foreign visitors. With over 3,000 exhibitors from both China and abroad, spanning across a sprawling 190,000 square metre exhibition space, the event promises a comprehensive showcase of the latest textile innovations.
Jointly organized by Messe Frankfurt, the China Textile Information Centre, and CCPIT-Tex, Intertextile will run concurrently with Intertextile Shanghai Home, focusing on home decoration fabrics, and the Yarn Expo show. Against the backdrop of a global trade fair industry emerging from disruption, Intertextile seeks to capitalize on China's robust domestic demand, particularly amidst a slowdown in apparel exports to key markets like the USA and Europe in 2023.
Highlighting China's resilient textile and apparel markets, organizers anticipate a surge in apparel exports in 2024, projecting a positive impact on global economic growth. Noteworthy exhibitors such as Eastman, Erteks, Fidlock, Grassim, Liberty Fabric, and Yifang Textile are poised to unveil a plethora of new products tailored to Asian producers and brands, with sustainability taking center stage at the All About Sustainability section.
Additionally, specialized sections like Beyond Denim, the Accessories Zone, the Functional Lab, and the Premium Wool Zone will cater to diverse industry segments, while the SalonEurope segment will spotlight premium European fabrics. Meanwhile, the Verve for Design section will showcase textile design prowess from local, European, and Australian companies.
The upcoming edition coincides with China's trial of a visa-free entry policy, aimed at visitors from select European countries and Malaysia, providing a strategic opportunity for Intertextile to attract European buyers. With an array of innovative products and a conducive policy environment, Intertextile stands poised to reaffirm its status as a pivotal platform for the global textile industry.
Archroma, a global frontrunner in specialty chemicals for sustainable solutions, has unveiled Super Systems+. These innovative end-to-end systems amalgamate fiber-specific processing solutions and intelligent effects, empowering textile and apparel brands, retailers, and mills to profoundly enhance their economic and environmental sustainability.
Dhirendra Gautam, Vice President of Product Marketing and Strategy at Archroma Textile Effects, emphasized the significance of Super Systems+ amidst critical industry shifts towards resource conservation and circularity. He stressed the need for brands to maintain competitiveness while prioritizing sustainability and maintaining product aesthetics and functionality. Gautam declared, "Super Systems+ represents a pivotal milestone in our commitment to innovation and partnership for the textile industry, embodying our 'Planet Conscious+' vision."
The Super Systems+ suite comprises wet processing solutions delivering measurable environmental impact, durable colors and functional effects augmenting product longevity, and technologies eliminating harmful substances. This comprehensive suite facilitates brands and mills in achieving desired sustainability levels through quantifiable resource savings and cleaner chemistries.
Kerim Oner, Director of Strategic Marketing, highlighted the transformative potential of Super Systems+, emphasizing its utilization of cutting-edge technologies to drive eco-friendly innovation. Oner articulated a future where efficiency converges with environmental consciousness, resulting in reduced processing times and conservation of water and energy.
Key breakthrough products and technologies within Super Systems+ include Avitera SE for significant resource savings in cotton processing, Diresul Evolution Black for enhanced black denim effects with a 57 per cent overall impact reduction, and aniline-free Denisol Pure Indigo 30 LIQ for authentic denim shades. Moreover, Eriopon E3-Save offers resource-efficient polyester dyeing, while Phobotex NTR-50 LIQ provides bio-based, PFAS-free durable water repellence.
Archroma's extensive product portfolio and global footprint position it as a leader in driving the textile and fashion industry towards sustainability. The introduction of Super Systems+ underscores Archroma's augmented commitment to sustainability, progress, and the positive transformation of the textile industry. Super Systems+ serves as a pivotal element of the "Planet Conscious+" vision, already available across popular end-use segments, from denim to performance wear and home textiles.
Marking a significant step in its global expansion strategy, Perlon, the renowned producer of synthetic filaments, officially opened its new plant in Goa, India. This exciting development follows Perlon's owner, Serafin, acquiring Indian manufacturer Shaun Filaments, paving the way for strengthened market presence, increased capacity, and enhanced production processes.
The Goa facility will play a crucial role in manufacturing synthetic filaments for diverse industries, including paper, technical textiles, brushes, cosmetics, and dental care. The integration of Shaun Filaments brings not only a wealth of experienced professionals but also established production lines and cutting-edge technologies to the operation, further bolstering Perlon's capabilities.
This expansion marks a significant step forward for Perlon, enabling them to cater to the growing demand for high-quality synthetic filaments in India and the wider Asian market. By leveraging their expertise and the strengths of Shaun Filaments, Perlon is poised for continued success and innovation in the years to come.
Calvin Klein launched its Spring 2024 collection with a campaign featuring celebrity Kendall Jenner. Shot by famed photographer Mert Alas, the ad film showcases Kendall in Calvin Klein’s Spring womenswear range, which includes outerwear and sophisticated ensembles.
The collection features a relaxed trench coat, with a soft draping silhouette and flowing construction, for heightened style throughout the Spring season.
The structured stretch blazer and matching wide leg trousers offer a polished and contemporary take on power dressing, featuring a clean finish and comfortable stretch fabric. The line leather crossbody bag completes the look with its compact size and supple leather, providing a versatile day-to-night accessory.
The campaign will be rolled out across Calvin Klein's social media platforms throughout the week. Its reach will be extended across the globe through out-of-home placements. Earlier this year, the company debuted parts of its Spring 2024 menswear ad with actor and musician Idris Elba and actor Jeremy Allen White.
