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The Kasturi Cotton brand and initiative was launched in India with the ambitious goal of revolutionizing the country's cotton industry and reestablishing it as a premier source of high-quality cotton in the global market.
The initiative is anchored in the recognition that despite being one of the world's largest cotton producers, India's cotton exports have often been hampered by concerns about quality consistency and traceability. Decades of unsustainable farming practices, coupled with the proliferation of genetically modified (GM) cotton varieties, have led to a drop in staple length, contamination issues, and inconsistency in quality. Kasturi Cotton aims to address these challenges head-on by promoting the cultivation and processing of premium, long-staple cotton varieties with robust traceability mechanisms.
Focus on staple Length and traceability
Kasturi Cotton emphasizes the production of Extra-Long Staple (ELS) cotton with a staple length of 35.2 mm and above, far exceeding the current average staple length of Indian cotton which hovers around 27-29 mm. This longer staple length translates to superior yarn quality, enabling the production of finer and more durable textiles.
A key differentiator of Kasturi Cotton is its comprehensive traceability system, which allows buyers to track the cotton's journey from the farm to the finished product. This transparency instills confidence in the authenticity and quality of the cotton, assuring buyers of its premium nature and ethical sourcing. Contamination-free, high uniformity, and excellent spinning performance are its unique selling points. It also promotes eco-friendly farming practices.
Export ambitions
Kasturi Cotton aims to capture a significant share of India's cotton export basket, with a target of reaching 10 per cent of the total exports within the next five years. The focus on premium quality and traceability is expected to drive demand in discerning international markets. Meanwhile, by promoting Kasturi Cotton, India seeks to reclaim its position as a leading supplier of high-quality cotton.
The initiative's emphasis on quality, consistency, and traceability is expected to enhance India's reputation in the global market, leading to increased export volumes and improved price realization.
In fact, to boost exports, Kasturi Cotton has been actively showcased at various international trade fairs, generating considerable interest among global buyers. The initiative has received positive feedback for its focus on quality, traceability, and sustainability. Buyers have expressed their eagerness to procure Kasturi Cotton, recognizing its potential to enhance the quality and reputation of their textile products.
Kasturi Cotton, as an initiative, aims to boost India's cotton sector by focusing on premium quality, traceability, and sustainability. Kasturi Cotton has the potential to redefine global standards and re-establish India as a preferred source of high-value cotton. The initiative's success will not only benefit Indian farmers and exporters but also contribute to the growth and development of the global textile industry.
In a concerning trend that threatens environmental health and sustainability goals, a new report by the Changing Markets Foundation has exposed a disturbing reliance on synthetic textiles among major fashion brands. This 'plastic paralysis' perpetuates the overproduction of cheap, disposable clothing, undermining claims of sustainability and posing a growing health risk.
The report surveyed 50 global apparel companies and revealed a worrying increase in the use of synthetic fibers, particularly polyester, the driving force behind fast fashion. Brands like Boohoo, Lululemon, Shein, and Zara owner Inditex have all reported increased synthetic fiber use, raising alarm bells about the industry's addiction to fossil fuels.
Rising synthetic use a concern
The report highlighted major brands increasing synthetic use. Brands like Boohoo, Lululemon, Shein, and Zara are doubling down on synthetics, contributing to the problem. And polyester is the main culprit, driving fast fashion and shedding harmful microfibers that have been found in human brain tissue, blood, breast milk, and placentas. Its cheap production and versatility have made it a go-to material for brands seeking to churn out massive volumes of trendy clothing at low prices. The environmental toll of synthetic fibers is immense. Derived from fossil fuels, their production contributes to greenhouse gas emissions and climate change. Furthermore, microfibers shed from these materials pollute waterways, harm marine life, and even infiltrate human bodies. Recent findings of microplastics in human brain tissue underscore the urgent need to address this growing health crisis.
What’s even more worrying is corporate secrecy regarding synthetic fiber use has tripled since 2021, with over half of the 50 surveyed companies failing to respond to inquiries. While brands often promote recycled polyester as a sustainable alternative, it mostly comes from plastic bottles, diverting them from a more efficient recycling loop and ultimately ending up in landfills. In fact, the reliance on recycled polyester, primarily from plastic bottles, is criticized as a ‘false solution’ that perpetuates plastic pollution and microplastic shedding.
Corporate secrecy on the rise
Despite mounting evidence of the detrimental effects of synthetic fibers, the report highlights a worrying increase in ‘corporate secrecy’ among fashion brands. Over half of the 50 global apparel companies surveyed failed to respond to requests for information on their use of and commitments to phase out synthetics, a significant jump from previous years. Even brands claiming to maintain steady synthetic fiber volumes often mask their increasing production by expanding their overall output. This lack of transparency hinders efforts to hold brands accountable for their environmental impact.
Brands moving in wrong direction
The report reveals that several major brands are deepening their reliance on synthetic materials. Inditex reported the highest use of synthetics by volume, while Shein boasted of the highest share of synthetics within its total garment production. Boohoo and Lululemon also saw increases in their use of these materials. Some brands promote the use of recycled polyester as a sustainable alternative. However, most recycled polyester comes from plastic bottles, diverting valuable resources from a more efficient closed-loop recycling system and ultimately contributing to plastic pollution.
The report offers several recommendations for the industry.
• Setting clear targets: The Changing Markets Foundation calls on brands to set measurable targets to reduce their use of synthetic fibers, invest in true circularity, and support legislation promoting transparency and sustainability in the industry. Reduce synthetic use by 20 per cent by 2025 and 50 per cent by 2030.
• Address microplastic pollution: Develop strategies to mitigate the impact of microfiber shedding.
• Invest in true circularity: Support textile-to-textile recycling and other innovative solutions.
• Support legislation: Advocate for policies that improve circularity and transparency.
The fashion industry stands at a critical juncture. It's time for brands to break free from ‘plastic paralysis’ and embrace a more sustainable future. By reducing their reliance on synthetic fibers, investing in innovative solutions, and supporting meaningful legislation, brands can contribute to a healthier planet and a more responsible fashion industry.
In 2023, the world’s largest single-country apparel importer, the United States, imported apparels worth $79.3 billion, primarily from Asia, according to a recent report from the US International Trade Commission (USITC). Released by the US trade representative, this report highlights the export competitiveness of key apparel suppliers to the US market.
Bangladesh, Cambodia, India, Indonesia, and Pakistan were among the top 10 apparel exporters to the US in 2023, collectively accounting for 27 per cent of the country’s total apparel imports during the year. These countries are also significant players in the global apparel market.
Between 2013 and 2023, the market shares of major US apparel suppliers witnessed notable shifts. China remained the largest exporter to the US although its share of exports decreased. On the other hand, the share of countries like Vietnam, Bangladesh, Cambodia, and Pakistan increased.
The world’s second-largest apparel exporter, Bangladesh has a strong competitive advantage due to its ability to fulfill large orders of basic garments at low cost, driven by low labor and input costs, as well as duty-free access to major markets outside the US.
Primarily focused on cut, make, and trim production, Cambodia’s apparel sector benefits from foreign direct investment and imports of upstream materials. The country’s growing reputation as a socially responsible manufacturing hub makes it an attractive alternative to China.
India’s apparel industry stands out for its quality and intricate detailing, supported by a vertically integrated production system, further enhancing its competitiveness.
Though a higher-cost source, Indonesia excels in producing high-value, complex garments, such as business attire, outdoor apparel, and athletic wear, adding to its appeal in the global market.
Pakistan’s apparel industry benefits from a robust cotton sector, particularly in high-quality denim production. Its competitive strengths include vertical integration and access to domestic cotton; however, geopolitical concerns remain a challenge for international buyers.
A global leader in iconic apparel, HanesBrands Inc has successfully sold the intellectual property and certain operating assets of its global brand ‘Champion’ to the Authentic Brands Group (ABG).
According to Steve Bratspies, this significant move helps the company streamline and strengthen its operations. It also enables HanesBrands reduce approximately $1 billion in debt by the H2, 2024.
With the sale of the Champion brand, HanesBrands continues to focus on its core businesses and optimising its product offerings. Combined with ongoing financial strategies, this sale positions the company for a more efficient, profitable future, delivering value to shareholders and enhancing its market position in the apparel industry. The company also aims to deliver strong shareholder returns through a targeted revenue growth, improved margins, double-digit earnings per share growth, and continued debt reduction, he adds.
This transaction also aligns with ABG's extensive portfolio of lifestyle and fashion brands, marking a new phase for Champion, which has a long history of success as a sports and athleisure brand. The group is expected to leverage its expertise in brand development and licensing to further expand Champion’s global presence and reach new consumer segments.
At its 45th Annual General Meeting (AGM) held on Sep 29, 2024 at the GKS Cotton Chambers, the Indian Cotton Federation (ICF), formerly known as the South India Cotton Association, urged the Union Government to remove the import duty on cotton. ICF opined, this move will help ensure the growth and competitiveness of the Indian textile industry on the global stage.
During the AGM, J. Thulasidharan, who was re-elected as the President for the 2024-25 term, addressed the challenges faced by the cotton and textile industry. He noted, the past financial year was particularly difficult for the industry due to a significant decline in textile demand. However, cotton yield for 2024-25 is likely to surpass the last season’s output to around 330 lakh bales, he predicted.
Thulasidharan attributed this optimistic forecast to government initiatives, including subsidies and an increased Minimum Support Price (MSP), which have encouraged farmers to focus on improving yield quality and reducing contamination.
However, despite the positive forecast, Thulasidharan raised concerns about the high price of raw cotton in India, which exceeds global prices due to the import duty on cotton. He urged the government to find a solution that would benefit both the industry and farmers, emphasising that securing raw materials at competitive prices and access to affordable financing are essential for the industry's growth.
Thulasidharan also referenced a July meeting of the Textile Advisory Group (TAG), attended by Nishanth Asher, Honorary Secretary, ICF, during which Union Textile Minister Giriraj Singh promised to address key industry concerns. The minister pledged to introduce a new strain of BT cotton to boost yield and work toward achieving price parity with global cotton markets.
Echoing the importance of addressing the challenges facing the industry, Asher emphasised on the need for policy reforms, particularly the removal of the cotton import duty, which has made Indian cotton more expensive than its international counterparts. He explained, eliminating the import duty would level the playing field for India's textile and spinning sectors, enabling them to compete more effectively on the global stage.
Asher also highlighted the growing importance of sustainability in the cotton industry by reiterating ICF’s commitment to continue engaging with policymakers to resolve issues such as price volatility, supply chain disruptions, and trade barriers.
Asher also reaffirmed ICF’s commitment to advocate for policies that support both the industry and farmers. The Federation would also help the Indian textile industry increase its exports, with the aim of reaching $100 billion by 2030, he added.
Following the debut of its Fall/Winter 2024 campaign earlier this year, featuring A$AP Nast and Gabriette, Adidas’ brand Y-3 has unveiled the final range of its seasonal collection.
The collection showcases a blend of tailored, refined wool pieces designed for winter’s chill, alongside Y-3’s signature styles, now reimagined with experimental prints. A standout feature of this collection is the application of a tie-dye finish on a woven nylon base fabric, enhanced with flock printing, adding a textured, avant-garde touch to the collection.
In footwear, the collection launches the Y-3 Superstar range in a striking two-tone colorway, combining Yamamoto’s distinct aesthetic with the rich archival legacy of adidas. The range also introduces the bold Y-3 Kyasu Overboot that was originally presented during Yohji Yamamoto’s Fall/Winter 2023 runway show. This futuristically designed footwear collection features a sleek full-leather outer boot paired with a removable Kyasu mule, offering a subversive take on Y-3's dynamic footwear offerings.
Directed by Francis Plummer, the campaign for this collection transitions from the bustling streets of New York City to a more abstract, ethereal realm. Here, the iconic Three Stripes are brought to life in a fluid dialogue of movement and flow, tension and poise. The campaign’s icy color palette transforms Y-3 into a world unbound by physical limits.
A leading brand in pop-culture merchandise and licensed apparel, the Souled Store has partnered with insights-led customer engagement platform MoEngage to enhance its automated customer interaction, and improve overall customer experience.
Bhaavya Gupta, Chief – Staff, highlights, this collaboration has been highly beneficial for the brand as its push campaigns have seen notable improvements in both deliverability and click-through rates. It has also help the brand expand its customer engagement channels from just push notifications to include WhatsApp and email. Besides, the partnership has also facilitated the automation of multiple flows—such as customer journeys and campaigns for the brand.
Previously reliant on a CRM platform for customer engagement, The Souled Store’s rapid growth prompted the need for a more advanced and scalable solution. MoEngage’s platform offers automation capabilities, enabling the brand to efficiently attract and retain customers while streamlining their engagement strategies.
Yash Reddy, Chief Revenue Officer, MoEngage adds, the brand’s adoption of MoEngage highlights the growing demand for scalable, automation-friendly platforms in today’s fast-evolving retail environment. This partnership also demonstrates the benefits of tailored, automated customer experiences in transforming brand-consumer interactions.
Curated by Alcova Milano, the Heimtextil Trends 25/26 will offer fresh perspectives for the textile industry as they seamlessly blend tradition with modern technology. Titled ‘Future Continuous,’ this cutting-edge showcase will be held in the Trend Arena at Heimtextil in Frankfurt from Jan 14-17, 2025.
The Heimtextil Trends 25/26 will highlight the concept of learning from the traditional practices and adapting them to the present. The showcase will explore ways in which historical methods inspire modern design solutions.
The Heimtextil Trends 25/26 showcase will be curated by the founding team of Alcova Milan for visitors in Hall 3.0. Known for its alternative design platform showcased during Milan’s design week, Alcova Milano often reactivates historical and spectacular locations, drawing connections between the past and the future of design.
The Heimtextil Trends 25/26 will showcase the rising of innovations from traditional practices. It will offer new approaches to sustainability and resource efficiency. Visitors will experience these through a dynamic installation that highlights textiles’ central role in technological, cultural, and ecological advancements.
The event will also feature six insightful interviews with international designers, textile researchers, and industry leaders, including Janis Jefferies, a pioneer in textile research, Ilse Crawford, StudioIlse, and Dirk Vantyghem, Director General, Euratex. These discussions will explore the importance of natural fibers like hemp, jute, and flax, as well as the growing focus on repairability, locality, and transparency in supply chains.
Featuring a color palette with shades like Naturally Uneven Green, End of Petrol, and Imperfect Pink, the Trend Arena promises to be a must-visit for those at the forefront of interior design.
Showcasing the success of its multi-brand strategy, JD Sports Fashion outperformed analysts’ expectations for its first-half profit. In the 26 weeks leading to Aug 3, 2024, the British sportswear retailer posted an adjusted pre-tax profit of £405.6 million, surpassing the £384 million forecast by analysts. Regis Schultz, CEO attributed this success to the company's global, multi-brand approach, which allowed it to quickly adapt to shifting industry trends.
The group achieved organic sales growth of 6.4 per cent, with like-for-like sales growth at 0.7 per cent. Revenues rose by 5.2 per cent to £5 billion, with a 6.8 per cent increase in constant currency. However, despite the adjusted profit rise of 2 per cent, statutory reported profit before tax declined by 64.3 per cent to £126.3 million.
JD Sports saw notable success across its core segments including JD, Complementary Concepts, and Sporting Goods & Outdoor. The JD brand experienced double-digit organic growth in Europe, North America, and Asia Pacific, opening 83 new stores, including its largest ever location in Stratford, London. The company is set to open 200 stores globally by year-end and transferred 19 more stores to JD from Finish Line, MIG, and ISRG.
The acquisition of Hibbett expanded JD’s North American presence with 1,179 stores, although the completion of its Courir acquisition awaits European Commission approval. Progress in omnichannel efforts was highlighted by the rollout of 'ship from store' in Europe and a successful 'click and collect' trial in France.
Regionally, Europe and North America showed strong organic sales growth of 10.1 per cent and 10.7 per cent respectively. The company’s performance in the UK improved as the period progressed, though non-core divestments impacted overall results. This growth was mainly driven by the footwear category, with a growth of 9.6 per cent and a larger share of 59.8 per cent in revenue. Meanwhile, the apparel category struggled due to weather-related challenges, growing only 0.7 per cent, with its share of revenue dropping to 29.8 per cent.
On October 9, Fair Wear will launch the HRDD Academy, an online platform designed to help garment and footwear brands implement human rights due diligence (HRDD) in line with the European Union Corporate Sustainability Due Diligence Directive (EU CSDDD) and other global frameworks.
The HRDD Academy will provide essential tools and resources for brands to navigate new industry standards. As the only multi-stakeholder initiative (MSI) dedicated to HRDD in the garment and footwear sector, Fair Wear brings over 25 years of experience working with brands, factories, and workers. The platform is built to guide brands through the complexities of HRDD, following OECD standards.
Rachel Chuang of Ganni highlighted that Fair Wear has consistently played a key role in enhancing labor conditions. She noted that the HRDD Academy would further strengthen their understanding of human rights due diligence (HRDD) and enhance their efforts in due diligence practices.
Key features of the HRDD Academy include self-paced learning, expert guidance on topics such as living wages and gender equity, and tools like risk scoping to assist brands in managing their HRDD processes. The platform also offers networking opportunities for brands to collaborate and share best practices.
A pilot phase that ran from 2023 to March 2024 allowed Fair Wear members and industry stakeholders to shape the platform's design. Markus Reisegger-Huber of Loffler GmbH praised the platform’s user-friendly structure and logical design.
The HRDD Academy aims to equip brands with the skills and knowledge needed to meet evolving regulatory requirements while fostering responsible business practices.
