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At the recent Bluezone event in Munich, Turkish denim giant Orta unveiled the world's biggest sustainable pair of jeans.

Christened "Steel Blue," this eco-friendly marvel is crafted from a rigid 2/1 Z twill denim fabric made with 80 per cent Cotton and 20 per cent post-consumer recycled cotton. Both fibers and the fabric itself were proudly manufactured in Turkey, showcasing Orta's commitment to sustainable practices.

To showcase this innovative material, Orta partnered with denim expert Wouter Munnichs to launch the Orta x Long John display jeans featuring iconic details like a single back pocket, cinch back, suspender buttons, and a vintage-style crotch rivet. A massive hangtag crafted from sustainable cotton completes the impressive ensemble.

The Orta x Long John jeans serve as a powerful symbol of Orta's dedication to sustainability and innovation. 

 

 

Despite facing muted consumer spending, Shoppers Stop delivered a strong Q3 with a 7 per cent Y-o-Y sales growth to Rs 1,207 crore. The beauty segment emerged as the star performer, growing a remarkable 10 per cent led by fragrances and makeup.. This contributed to an overall beauty mix of 18 per cent.

Shoppers’ Stop’s fragrance sales soared 41 per cent, while makeup sales surged by 6 per cent pushing the beauty segment to 18 per cent of the overall mix.

Driven by premiumzation,  average transaction value by grew 6 per cent, suggesting customers are willing to spend more on quality items.

The ‘Fashion for all’ format, Intune, continues to impress with four new stores added this quarter, bringing the total to 10. Full price sell-thru remained strong at 65%, and plans are in place for 14 more stores by FY24 end.

 Shoppers Stop is on track to meet its FY24 target, adding 13 stores in Q3 across various formats (department, beauty, Intune, and airport). The retailer’s 

 GAAP EBITDA is  lower than last year due to one-time income adjustments and inventory obsolescence provisions. However,  the company remains debt-free with a net cash surplus of Rs 40 crore. 

 

 

The Chinese spandex industry saw a mixed bag in 2023, with exports declining overall but experiencing some bright spots. 

Total exports declined by 2 per cent to 69.6kt tons compared to 2022. 

One of the major reasons for this decline is a significant drop in export unit price, which fell from $7.698/kg to $5.022/kg, a decrease of $2.676/kg.

Q1 saw the lowest volume of Spandex exports in recent years due to the Spring Festival and weak overseas demand. The depreciating value yuan value and growing demand fuelled the growth of spandex in major exporting them. 

Spandex exports hit a five-year high in Q3 due to excess domestic supply and the favorable exchange rate. However, this demand once again declined by 11.4 per cent Y-o-Y in Q4 due to soft demand and the Red Sea tension.

In 2023, Spandex was exported to 110 countries or regions, up from 103 in 2022. Turkey remained the top destination though exports by the country declined by 31.1 per cent.

The reason for the decline in Turkey’s exports was attributed to high inflation in Europe and the US due to geopolitical issues. Spandex exports to other destinations like Taiwan, Brazil and Iran also declined. 

To arrest this decline, the Chinese spandex industry needs to adapt to changing market conditions and focus on value-added products to remain competitive in the global market.

 

 

In a bid to enhance creativity and efficiency in fashion education, Kent State University School of Fashion has embraced the innovative CREATE PLUS software. The school, renowned for shaping the future of the US fashion industry, boasts around 1600 students in fashion design and merchandising, emphasizing real-world testing and self-confidence.

CREATE PLUS, a digital knitting program, has gained traction in recent years, with 20 programming stations now operational in the Knit LAB. Linda Ohrn-McDaniel, a key figure at the School of Fashion, highlights the software's significance for future career paths, emphasizing its versatility in teaching knitting and programming know-how.

Initially using M1plus alongside traditional methods, the school transitioned to CREATE PLUS for its advanced functionalities. Ohrn-McDaniel praises the software's clear visualization of knitted fabrics and simultaneous display of technical details, facilitating a comprehensive understanding of the intricate interrelationships in fashion design.

The shift from M1plus to CREATE PLUS was not without challenges, but Ohrn-McDaniel notes that students starting directly with CREATE PLUS find it more user-friendly. The school plans to utilize CREATE PLUS extensively in upcoming courses, focusing on creating virtual patterns and prototypes. Ohrn-McDaniel emphasizes a holistic approach to teaching, starting with manual techniques before introducing more efficient methods, ensuring a solid foundation of knowledge for the students.

Kent State's adoption of CREATE PLUS marks a transformative step in fashion education, aligning with industry trends and preparing students for dynamic careers in the ever-evolving landscape of fashion design and technology.

 

 

Scheduled for March 6 – 8, 2024, at the National Exhibition and Convention Center in Shanghai, Yarn Expo Spring is set to be Asia's premier yarn and fiber sourcing platform, covering 27,000 sqm and hosting over 500 exhibitors from 10 countries and regions. The event responds to the escalating demand for sustainability and transparency in textile production chains, driven by the industry's push to minimize environmental impacts and transition towards a circular economy.

The focus on sustainability is evident in the prominence of initiatives related to recycled and regenerated products, particularly synthetic fibers. The synthetic fibers market is projected to reach USD 190.4 billion in 2024, propelled by an 8.7% CAGR. Factors contributing to this growth include the rising demand for cost-effective fibers, advancements in material science, and innovations such as fiber recycling and reuse, enabling the repurposing of synthetic fibers with a reduced environmental footprint.

Recycled textiles are gaining popularity across various sectors, including clothing, home furnishings, and industrial applications. The recycling market in the Asia-Pacific region, particularly in countries like China, India, and Australia, is anticipated to expand by 3.1% annually through 2028, reaching USD 6.9 billion. This growth is attributed to the scaling up of collection and reuse systems in the region.

China's "Reborn - China Fiber Zero Carbon Action 2023" initiative, launched at the previous Yarn Expo Spring, underscores the country's commitment to sustainable practices aligned with its "dual carbon" strategy. The initiative sets targets for industry players to expand recycled fiber production and usage, aiming for reduced carbon emissions and carbon neutrality across various sectors.

Leading brands showcasing their sustainable offerings at the upcoming fair include Better International Holding from Hong Kong, Everest Textile from Taiwan (bluesign-certified), and Shaoxing Guozhou Textile New Material from China, a certified yarn spinner and fabric supplier catering to renowned brands like H&M and ZARA.

Yarn Expo Spring, organized by Messe Frankfurt (HK) Ltd and the Sub-Council of Textile Industry, CCPIT, will run concurrently with Intertextile Shanghai Apparel Fabrics – Spring Edition, Intertextile Shanghai Home Textiles – Spring Edition, CHIC, and PH Value, creating synergies for exhibitors and buyers to maximize business opportunities.

 

 

Sustainability is the watchword in the textile industry, and Yarn Expo Spring 2024 (March 6-8, Shanghai) is ready to propel the shift towards a circular economy. Hosted by Messe Frankfurt, the event welcomes over 500 exhibitors from 10 countries, showcasing innovations in eco-friendly yarns, fibres, and production processes.

Synthetic fibres are booming, driven by their cost-effectiveness, material advancements, and eco-friendly recycling initiatives. This market is expected to reach USD 190.4 billion in 2024, fueled by an 8.7% CAGR.

Recycled textiles are also thriving, thanks to their growing popularity in clothing, home furnishings, and industrial applications. Asia-Pacific countries like China, India, and Australia are scaling up collection and reuse systems, leading to a projected 3.1% annual growth in the recycling market through 2028.

China's "Reborn - China Fiber Zero Carbon Action 2023" initiative, launched at the previous Yarn Expo Spring, shows its commitment to sustainable practices. This aligns with Messe Frankfurt's "Texpertise Econogy" initiative, driving sustainability across its textile trade shows.

For buyers, Yarn Expo Spring offers a chance to source from leading brands like Better International Holding, Everest Textile, and Shaoxing Guozhou Textile New Material, all dedicated to eco-friendly yarns and processes.

Beyond exhibits, the event features fringe events focusing on sustainability, providing insights for industry players. Moreover, co-locating with other textile trade shows creates synergy, maximizing business opportunities for exhibitors and buyers alike.

Yarn Expo Spring is poised to be a catalyst for Asia's transition to a sustainable textile future. With its focus on eco-friendly solutions, innovations, and collaborations, the event promises to be a springboard for responsible and circular practices in the industry.

 

 

Fashion education gets a high-tech boost at Kent State University's School of Fashion, where students are weaving the future with cutting-edge software and machinery. CREATE PLUS, an innovative knitting programming solution from STOLL, is transforming the learning experience, offering both creativity and efficiency.

This top US fashion school boasts over 1600 students, nurturing their talent through a focus on real-world skills and practical experience. Internships are woven into the curriculum, and unique resources like the Knit LAB provide hands-on learning with industrial knitting machines.

The Knit LAB isn't just about mastering needles and yarn; it's a gateway to the digital side of knitting. Since 2015, students have been delving into the world of programming, with M1plus and now, the increasingly popular CREATE PLUS, taking center stage. Today, 20 dedicated workstations hum with the activity of future fashion pioneers coding their creations.

Linda Ohrn-McDaniel, a CREATE PLUS advocate, appreciates the software's versatility. "One day we're designing sweaters, the next we're collaborating with architects or medical researchers," she says, highlighting the machine's adaptability. "CREATE PLUS lets us seamlessly switch between projects, and its clear visualization helps students grasp the intricate relationship between code and fabric."

Ohrn-McDaniel has witnessed firsthand the shift from M1plus to CREATE PLUS. "While M1plus laid the groundwork, CREATE PLUS feels more user-friendly," she observes. "Students pick it up quicker, which is why we primarily use it now."

But CREATE PLUS isn't just about ease of use. Its virtual pattern and prototype creation capabilities open doors to a world of 3D garment development. Students leverage their existing CLO skills to import patterns into CREATE PLUS and export them back for a complete virtual garment experience.

However, Ohrn-McDaniel emphasizes the importance of understanding the fundamentals. "We deliberately avoid shortcut tools," she explains. "Our focus is on building knowledge from the ground up, starting with manual techniques and progressing to more efficient methods as understanding deepens."

Kent State University's School of Fashion is setting the pace for a future where fashion and technology are seamlessly intertwined. By embracing CREATE PLUS, they're equipping their students with the skills and tools to not only design the clothes of tomorrow, but also code them into existence.

 

 

Archroma, a global leader in color and specialty chemicals, proudly announces the sustained success of its enduring partnership with SANITIZED AG, a pioneer in odor and hygiene management in the textile industry. This collaboration, established in 1989, has played a pivotal role in driving innovation and industry standards, particularly in home textiles and apparel.

The partnership's transformative impact is evident in cutting-edge solutions and unparalleled quality across diverse applications. Archroma, solidifying its position as the top chemical supplier, further strengthened its capabilities with the acquisition of Huntsman’s Textile Effects division in February 2023. This strategic move expanded Archroma's global reach and technical expertise, enhancing joint communication, salesforce, and innovation efforts.

Michael Lüthi, CEO of SANITIZED AG, emphasizes the partnership's significance, stating, "Paired with our strong expertise in freshness additives, we enhance our marketing teams, salesforce, and innovation force to drive the industry towards more sustainable solutions."

Focused on sustainability and technical excellence, the collaboration aims to reinforce mills and brands in elevating their products by adding freshness value and delivering high-quality effects. Dhirendra Gautam, VP of Product Marketing and Strategy at Archroma, sees the partnership as a pivotal moment for the global textile market, highlighting a commitment to sustainability, innovation, and technical expertise.

This resilient alliance symbolizes a commitment to continued success, positioning Archroma and SANITIZED AG as leaders in driving market trends and transformations, particularly in freshness finishes, in the dynamic textile landscape.

 

 

By 2030, the fashion industry's dependence on fossil fuels for garments will hit a staggering 75%. This alarming statistic puts pressure on bio-innovators to break the industry's addiction to polyester and other unsustainable materials.

At Texworld NYC, a panel titled "Next-Gen Materials and Fiber Innovation" explored how these pioneers are tackling this challenge. From squid protein to bacteria-grown textiles, the discussion showcased a range of fascinating biomaterials and the journeys they take from concept to market.

From Squid to Sustainable: Julie Willoughby, representing Tandem Repeat Technologies, explained their "Squitex" protein fiber, highlighting its versatility. By manipulating the protein sequence, they can control the material's properties, creating anything from soft, drape-y fabrics to sturdy, technical textiles.

Biodegradable Polyester: Kintra Fibers takes a different approach, focusing on biodegradable alternatives to traditional synthetics. Their "Kintra" polyester uses plant-based feedstocks instead of petroleum, making it a sustainable and eco-friendly choice.

Microbial Magic: Modern Synthesis taps into the power of microbes to create a new class of textile. Their bacteria-grown nanocellulose is strong, lightweight, and incredibly versatile, offering a potential replacement for even materials like leather.

Plant-Powered Fur: Inspired by the cruelty of the fur industry, BioFluff's co-founder Martin Stübler developed "Savian," a luxurious fur alternative made from 100% renewable plant fibers like nettle, flax, and hemp. This innovation caught the eye of Stella McCartney, who used it in her COP28 collection.

Brand Partnerships: While the science behind these materials is impressive, scaling them up for commercial use requires collaboration. Modern Synthesis partnered with Ganni to develop a bacteria-based version of their popular Bou Bag, while Kintra works with brands like Reformation and Bestseller to test and refine their materials.

Challenges and Opportunities: Scaling up and integrating these new technologies into existing supply chains present significant challenges. Patience and flexibility are key, as Gupta from Kintra emphasizes: "These are not six-month or one-year projects. There's multiple stages of testing, and it takes time."

Despite the hurdles, bio-innovators remain optimistic. Keane from Modern Synthesis sees existing infrastructure as an opportunity: "We've been looking at how we can use existing machinery to make really cool materials."

The future of fashion is woven with threads of innovation and sustainability. Bio-innovators are leading the charge, offering solutions that are not only good for the planet but also push the boundaries of what textiles can be. With continued collaboration and a commitment to overcoming challenges, these bio-based materials have the potential to revolutionize the fashion industry and create a more sustainable future for all.

 

 

Textile giant Karl Mayer has made waves with its latest innovation, the TM 4 EL. This versatile four-bar tricot machine caters to the mid-range market, churning out fabrics for everything from upholstery and car interiors to sportswear and home textiles. All this, while offering exceptional value and speed.

"We prioritized customer needs," says Kay Hilbert, Product Owner at Karl Mayer. "The TM 4 EL delivers top performance at an attractive price, tackling a wide range of fabrics with maximum efficiency."

This powerhouse machine boasts a 30% speed increase over its predecessor, thanks to Karl Mayer's proven CFRP technology. The launch at ITMA ASIA was a roaring success, with one machine even selling during the event!

Fashion houses are especially excited about the TM 4 EL's potential. Turkish manufacturers see it as a key to reaching international brands, while South American producers envision local collaborations. And for trend-conscious designers, the machine's ability to craft chic seersucker fabrics is a major draw.

The TM 4 EL's arrival marks a significant shift in the tricot market. Its combination of versatility, speed, and affordability is sure to make it a favorite among textile producers worldwide.

 

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