The highly anticipated Gartex Texprocess India, a prominent trade show in the garment manufacturing and textile industry, is gearing up for its 3rd Mumbai edition scheduled from 1-3 February 2024 at the Jio World Convention Centre in Mumbai, Maharashtra. The event is poised to host over 100 exhibitors, with more than 30 new participants joining the show. Renowned as the premier marketplace for textile buyers and sellers, this edition promises to showcase innovations across 32 key product categories in the textile industry.

Innovative displays and co-located shows

Spanning an expansive 10,000 sqm, the event will feature dynamic displays highlighting cutting-edge machinery, advanced technologies, trending fabrics, and raw materials. This edition places a renewed emphasis on resilient supply chain processes, technological innovations, and sustainable practices. The co-located Denim Show, Fabrics and Trims Show, and the exclusive zone on Screen Print India-Textile will spotlight the continuously evolving innovations in the textile industry.

Global participation and diverse product range

Gartex Texprocess India, a go-to trade fair for the complete textile value chain, has historically attracted international textile companies. The event is set to host brands from India, including Alliance Embroidery, Balaji Sewing Machines, DCC, Geminy, Lenzing Fibres India, and more. International participation is expected from brands like Brother, Bruce, Jack, Pegasus, Siruba, Yumei, representing countries such as Spain, Germany, Japan, Singapore, China, and others.

Exquisite product display

The product display will encompass a diverse range of categories, including Denim Fabrics, Knitting Machines, ERP Solutions, Industrial Sewing Machines, Automation Solutions for Garment Manufacturing, Cutting Plotters, Digital Textile Printers, Heat Transfer Machines, Denim Laser and Finishing Machines, 3D Transfer Labels, Printed Tapes and Elastics, Sequins Chain, Loose for Hand Embroidery, Garment Accessories, and a Large Variety of Fashion Fabrics.

Industry growth and collaboration opportunities

The exhibition is expected to pave the way for business alliances and national and international collaborations to further boost the sector's growth. A report by FICCI-Wazir Advisors estimates the Indian textile and apparel market at USD 165 billion in 2022, with a projected growth to USD 350 billion by 2030. The government's initiatives and manufacturers' focus on circularity position India on the roadmap to become a global textile manufacturing hub.

Industry voices

Raj Manek, Executive Director and Board Member of Messe Frankfurt Asia Holdings Ltd, expressed his satisfaction in bringing the 3rd Mumbai edition, emphasizing the presentation of advanced technological products that deliver high-quality and high-speed performance machinery, textiles, fabrics, denims, screen print solutions, and accessories.

Gaurav Juneja, Director of MEX Exhibitions Pvt Ltd, sees Gartex Texprocess India as a platform for participants to educate the industry about new developments in the textile sphere. He urges exhibitors and visitors to leverage the one-stop selling and sourcing platform, facilitating engagement with the textile value chain under one roof.

Organizers and key supporters

Jointly organized by MEX Exhibitions Pvt Ltd and Messe Frankfurt Trade Fairs India, Gartex Texprocess India receives continued support from the Ministry of Textiles and the Denim Manufacturers Association (DMA). This backing ensures the empowerment of participating companies and the benefit of the entire textile value chain.

Dubai-based apparel manufacturer, Nava Apparels LLC-FZ plans to acquire the entire assets of Mombasa Apparel (EPZ). This acquisition has been approved by the Competition Authority of Kenya on the condition that the Nava Apparels retains all of Mombasa’s 4,478 employees.

Nava Apparels LLC-FZ does not have any operations in Kenya. Clothes manufactured by the company are exported to the UTS, Canada, and Europe. On the other hand, the garments manufactured by Mombasa Apparel (EPZ) are exported to the UAE and the US. 

Kenya earns most of its foreign exchange through the export of textiles and apparel products. The country’s apparel sector is divided into three-tiers. 

The first of these is the Export Processing Zone (EPZ) housing 36 large companies. Currently, there are seven operational EPZs in the country including Athi River EPZ, Nairobi EPZ, Mombasa Port City EPZ, Kilifi EPZ, Malindi EPZ, Voi EPZ, and Kimwarer EPZ, with 36 registered apparel manufacturers.

These EPZs earn most of their revenues from garment exports to the US under the African Growth and Opportunity Act (AGOA).

Post the proposed merger of Mombasa Apparel into Nava Apparels, the market share of the merged entity will increase marginally to 3.83 per cent.

From audacious acquisitions to ethical awakenings, 2023 painted a vibrant yet starkly contrasting picture for the fashion industry. While some brands surged ahead with bold strategies and a tech-savvy embrace, others grappled with financial woes and ethical quandaries. This A look at the key themes that defined the year, from M&S's roaring comeback to Shein's explosive growth amidst legal controversies. As we peer into 2024's uncertain horizon, questions loom large: Can the winners maintain their momentum? Can the struggling find redemption? And how will the industry navigate the treacherous waters of economic turmoil and a cost-of-living crisis? Here’s a look at the winners and losers, the resilient and the vulnerable, of the fashion world in 2023 and the challenges and opportunities that lie ahead in 2024.

Dominant Strategies of 2023

Acquisitions and Investments: Next, M&S, and Frasers Group led the charge with strategic acquisitions and investments, including Next's spree of Joules, Cath Kidston, Reiss, and FatFace, and M&S's partnerships with Crew Clothing, Nobody's Child, and Sessi.

Sustainability and Ethical Practices: Patagonia, Stella McCartney, and Reformation championed sustainable materials, ethical production, and supply chain transparency. H&M's clothing rental and garment collection initiatives also stood out.

Tech-Driven Innovation: Zegna and Burberry's use of AI for virtual try-on experiences, Michael Kors's livestream shopping events, and Shein's focus on digital platforms showcased the power of technology.

Community and Purpose: M&S's record in-store sales and Sienna Miller campaign, and AllSaints' focus on product development and global presence reflected their commitment to connecting with customers.

Winners of 2023: A Tale of Acquisitions, Innovation, and Value

Forget the gloomy headlines, 2023 was a year of dazzling victories in the fashion industry, with brands bold enough to innovate and adapt reaping the rewards. From Next's shopping spree to M&S's stunning comeback, a look at the powerhouses that dominated the year:

Next: This retail titan proved unstoppable, fueled by its relentless acquisition spree (hello Joules, Cath Kidston, Reiss, and FatFace!), strong online expansion, and ambitious automation plans. Their formula was simple: give customers what they want, wherever they want it, with lightning speed.

M&S: Remember when M&S teetered on the edge? Not anymore! This heritage brand roared back onto the scene with savvy store openings, strategic partnerships (Crew Clothing, Nobody's Child, Sessi), and a fashion overhaul that finally hit the right notes. The result is a triumphant return to the FTSE 100 and record clothing and home sales - proving that sometimes, all it takes is a fresh perspective and a willingness to listen.

Shein: Love them or hate them, Shein's explosive growth couldn't be ignored. This fast-fashion juggernaut expanded its global reach, sidelined Missguided, and solidified its position as a retail force to be reckoned with. Legal controversies cast a shadow, but their ability to deliver trendy styles at breakneck speed has undeniably captured a massive audience.

Frasers Group: Mike Ashley's departure didn't dim their shine. This retail powerhouse roared on, fueled by robust financial results, smart investments in Boohoo and Asos, and the ever-expanding SportsDirect empire. They may not be everyone's cup of tea, but their adaptability and strategic acumen are undeniable.

AllSaints: Forget fleeting trends, AllSaints doubled down on quality and craftsmanship. Their focus on product development, e-commerce mastery, and a carefully curated global presence paid off handsomely, with record revenue and profit growth proving that timeless style never goes out of fashion.

Primark: While others wrestled with rising costs, Primark proved the power of value. Their commitment to affordable fashion, coupled with a smart click-and-collect expansion, made them a haven for cost-conscious shoppers, cementing their position as a retail hero in the face of economic uncertainty.

FatFace: From the brink to the boardroom, FatFace's story is one of remarkable turnaround. An impressive sales surge, coupled with accolades for being the best workplace and team of the year, proves that good vibes and quality products are a winning combination.

Reiss: Nestled under Next's wing, Reiss soared. Boasting record sales, the launch of the luxurious Reiss Atelier line, and a string of successful partnerships, they proved that timeless tailoring and contemporary edge are a recipe for success.

Hope for a Better 2024

While some brands basked in the limelight of 2023, others found themselves facing a stark reality of financial woes and mounting challenges. In this struggle, four names shone particularly bright, their struggles a cautionary tale for the industry..

Asos: Despite aggressive cost-cutting measures and even the potential sale of their prized Topshop brand, Asos remained mired in loss-making territory. Declining sales painted a grim picture, raising questions about whether their once-dominant online model still held the magic in a changing consumer landscape.

Farfetch: From the heights of acquiring YNAP to the depths of near-collapse, Farfetch's year was a rollercoaster of extremes. Losses piled up, redundancies swept through the company, and even a South Korean rescue package felt more like a lifeline than a permanent solution. The question remains: can they regain their once-stellar reputation and navigate the choppy waters of online luxury retail?

Matches: Bought by the ever-expanding Frasers Group, Matches found itself in a gilded cage. Apax's cash injection masked underlying issues, while headcount reductions and the involvement of turnaround specialists Teneo hinted at internal turmoil. Can this once-coveted luxury destination find its footing under the watchful eye of its new owner?

Boohoo: Job cuts, widening losses, and a growing chorus of legal threats and ethical concerns painted a bleak picture for Boohoo. While their stock price may have shown signs of recovery, the cracks in their fast-fashion facade appeared wider than ever. Can they mend their reputation and adapt to a more conscious consumer before their house of cards comes tumbling down?

These four fashion warriors, once heralded as trendsetters, now find themselves on a treacherous path in 2024. Their struggles serve as a stark reminder of the ever-evolving nature of the fashion landscape, where success and failure are often separated by a razor-thin margin. Will they find the strength to turn the tide, or will their names become footnotes in the ever-changing story of fashion? Only time will tell.

Roadmap for 2024: Buckle Up for a Turbulent Year

2023 was a kaleidoscope of contrasting fortunes for fashion retailers. While some brands tangoed with success, others stumbled on the catwalk. But as the curtains close on another year, one thing is clear: 2024 promises to be a high-octane runway show, with twists, turns, and unexpected exits guaranteed. Buckle up, fashion fans, because here's what to watch:

Mergermania on the Mend: Get ready for a whirlwind of alliances and acquisitions. With competition intensifying, expect established players to join forces, reshape the landscape, and potentially spark industry consolidation.

Green is the New Black: Sustainability takes center stage. Driven by conscious consumers and tightening regulations, ethical sourcing, eco-friendly materials, and circularity will no longer be optional, but a runway essential.

Tech Takes the Spotlight: AI and AR/VR are stepping out of the fitting room and onto the catwalk. From virtual try-on experiences to hyper-personalized shopping journeys, technology is poised to revolutionize the way we shop and wear fashion.

Weathering Economic Storm: With cost-of-living crisis hanging heavy, navigating the economic downturn will be a critical survival skill. Savvy retailers will prioritize affordability, cater to changing spending habits, and embrace innovative cost-cutting strategies.

Eyes on Shein: All eyes turn to the fast-fashion giant. Can they navigate the choppy waters of legal controversies and ethical concerns? Will their explosive growth in the UK continue? Their every move will be dissected and debated.

Frasers Group's Next Chapter: Mike Ashley's departure raised eyebrows, but the show goes on. Can the group maintain its momentum through strategic investments, e-commerce expansion, and SportsDirect's continued domination? Their next move could reshape the retail landscape.

2024 promises to be a year of thrilling highs and potential pitfalls. Who will sashay to victory, and who will face a fashion faux pas, remains to be seen.

Leading luxury brand Kering and other industry giants such as Johnstons of Elgin, Eilen Fisher, and DyStar have teamed up with Spiber to launch an initiative to transform the textile industry by creating fully circular textile products. 

These innovative products will be designed to regenerate into Spiber’s Brewed Protein materials at their end-of-life stage, setting the stage for a wholly sustainable lifecycle.

The initiative will involve converting end-of-use textiles and agricultural by-products into fresh materials through microbial fermentation. This will lead to the development of a new breed of fibers perfectly suited for clothing textiles. Goldwin and Pangaia have already been members of the project since June this year. 

The new partners will provide samples for laboratory testing for generating pivotal data, for assessing the impact of different textile chemicals on the conversion process. Spiber plans to compile this data into a comprehensive database that will serve as a guide for industry stakeholders, helping them design products that align with circularity solutions.

At the India-US Trade Policy Forum meeting, Piyush Goyal Union Minister of Commerce and Industry, urged Ambassador Katherine Tai, US Trade Representative to restore its Generalised System of Preferences (GSP) status that was scrapped by the former Donald Trump administration in 2019. 

The largest beneficiary of GSP status, India exports goods worth $5.7 billion duty-free to the US in the year 2017. Of these, 1,900 products belonged to the engineering chemicals and textiles sector, noted Goyal.

The bilateral and technological partnership also benefits from the movement of professional and skilled workers, students, investors and business visitors between the two countries, he added.  

Highlighting challenges being faced by business visitors from India due to visa proessing time periods, he requested Tai to augment this processing.

The two delegates also identified future areas for enhanced cooperation between the two countries including critical minerals, customs and trade facilitation, supply chains, and trade in high tech products.

Troung Van Cam, Chairman, Vietnam Textile and Apparel Association (VITAS), says, Viet Nam’s textile exports are projected to rise by 9.2 per cent rise to $44 billion in 2024 from 40.3 billion seen in 2023. 

However, Việt Nam’s exports continue to be targeted by trade protectionism, defence mechanisms, and barriers in multiple countries, adds the Ministry of Trade and Industry. 

To tackle these problems, the ministry plans to initiate more trade negotiations, linkages, and agreements besides promoting FTAs with potential partners such as the UAE and countries in South America, adds Nguyen Cam Trang, Deputy Director General, Agency of Foreign Trade.

The agency plans to encourage companies to utilise FTAs to boost exports and switch to official exports coupled with effective branding; work with localities, associations, and enterprises to expand markets and boost product consumption; and frequently update businesses on changes in export policies and criteria for them to devise strategic production plans, she notes. 

Vietnamese businesses continue to suffer from supply chain challenges and high input prices, opines Dr Can Van Luc, Economic Expert. These businesses need to diversify funding and supply sources, expand their markets, and connect with potential partners, as well as proactively opt for green production, green consumption, and circular economic practices, he adds.

VITAS will help the businesses introduce new measures for sustainable development, markets, human resources, science and technology, and fundraising, adds Cẩm.

Philippines’ exports of textile and wearables surged by 9 per cent to $141.5 million in October 2023 from $130.38 million in the same month in 2022, shows data from the Confederation of Wearables of the Philippines (Conwep).

Exports of wearables including apparels, travel goods and footwear surged by 10 per cent to $118.73 million during October 2023from $108.28 million in the same month in 2022.

However, wearable exports declined by 20 per cent from January to October to $1.11 billion from $1.4 billion in the same period in 2022.

The wearables segment constituted 16 per cent of Philippines’ total exports in the first 10 months of 2023, with textiles holding the remaining 16 per cent at $213.32 million. 

In the wearables segment, apparel dominated with exports worth $588.43 million.

With China buying 6,000 tonne of cotton yarn in the last month and new orders being placed by several large players, the textile industry in Gujarat is on a revival. 

Currently, spinning mills in Gujarat are running at about 80 per cent capacity and anticipate demand to remain steady in the next few months as well. The state has 125-odd spinning mills and with installed capacity of more than 45 lakh spindles.

Jayesh Patel, Senior Vice President, Spinners’ Association Gujarat (SAG), says, Demand in the cotton market in the state has revives as prices have stabilized at Rs 55,000-55,500 a candy. Yarn prices have also stabilised at Rs 235-237 per kg. 

Bharat Chhajer, Former Chairman, PDEXCIL, adds, the improved demand scenario has boosted the purchasing capacity of traders in Ahmedabad. Cotton demand in the state improved as prices gained stability. 

Being held at the Expo Mart in Greater Noida, the 14th edition of HGH India is being attended by over 19,100 visitors from 510 towns and cities across India. 

The event is being attended by participants from 30 countries, including over 100 new exhibitors Showcasing products from 400 manufacturers and brands, the exhibition focuses on home textiles, home décor, home furniture, housewares, and gifts. It serves as a platform for online and offline retailers, distributors, importers, architects, interior designers, and institutional buyers to discover innovative products for upcoming seasons. The trade show allows manufacturers and brands in these categories to launch their new collections, introduce trade schemes, and expand their distribution and retail network in India’s rapidly growing market. 

The 14th edition of HGH India is being supported by the Government of India’s Ministries of Textiles and MSME, as well as the State Governments of Uttar Pradesh and Haryana. Furthermore, the Export Promotion Council for Handicrafts, National Design Centre, North Eastern Handicrafts & Handloom Development Corporation Ltd., and Kashmir Chamber of Commerce collaborated with the Development Commissioner Handicrafts, Ministry of Textiles.

Over its past 13 editions, HGH India has facilitated connections between the exhibitors and retailers, retailers, distributors, institutional buyers, architects & interior designers, and gift buyers from over 600 cities and towns across India, along with 32 additional countries.

The 15th edition of HGH India will be held from July 02-05, 2024 at the Bombay Exhibition Centre in Mumbai. The event will showcase brands’ Autumn/Winter collections 2024-25. 

Attracting a significant number of Indian and International buyers, the Intex India 2023 exhibition on a successful note. The show attracted visitors from India as well as abroad as it showcased solutions for enhancing domestic as well as international sales. 

The tradeshow provided valuable market insights on emerging trends, innovations, and product expansion throughout the entire supply and value chain. The exhibition allowed visitors to connect with participating organisations to boost their prospects for textile sourcing opportunities both within India and abroad.

The trade show was inaugurated by Shubhra, Trade Show Advisor, Ministry of Textiles, Government of India In the presence of senior representatives from the Vietnam Trade Office in New Delhi, Confederation of Indian Textiles Industry (CITI), Udyog Vihar Chamber of Commerce & Industry, Okhla Garment & Textiles Cluster (OGTC), Karnataka Innerwear Association, etc.

Exhibits at Intex India encompassed a diverse range of textiles, trims, clothing accessories, dyes, chemicals, certification and business consulting offerings. The event also presented prospects for trade and investment in Africa. The exhibition held two special forums, Intex Textile Conclave (ITC) and Interactive Business Forum (IBF). 

Serving as platforms for business leaders and industry experts, the forums allow them to share insights, exchange ideas, explore business prospects, and drive future growth. Theme of this year’s Intex Textile Conclave (ITC), being held in collaboration with DFU-FashionatingWorld, included “Fibres of Fashion: Reimagining the Future of Textiles. 

The next editions of Intex India will be organised in Dhaka, Bangladesh, from May 30-June 01, 2024 and in Colombo, Sri Lanka, from August 07-09, 2024.