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The ITM 2024 Exhibition in Istanbul has emerged as a resounding success, attracting thousands of visitors from a staggering 94 countries within its initial three days. Hosted by the collaboration of TeknikFuarcılık AS., Tuyap Tum FuarcılıkYapım AS, and Temsad, this international textile machinery showcase commenced on June 4th, unveiling cutting-edge innovations and fostering lucrative partnerships.
The event showcased the prowess of the global textile technology leaders, providing an unparalleled platform for product launches and collaborative ventures. The diversity of attendees, ranging from Sri Lanka to Uruguay, Mauritius to Mongolia, underscores the exhibition's widespread appeal and significance in the textile industry.
Notably, the strategic choice of Istanbul as the venue enhanced the exhibition's international flavor, facilitating cross-border collaborations and overcoming visa barriers prevalent in European exhibitions. Exhibitors lauded the opportunity to engage with clients from diverse markets like Pakistan, India, and Bangladesh, culminating in machinery sales and robust partnerships.
With its remarkable success in attracting a diverse array of visitors and fostering global collaborations, ITM 2024 sets a new benchmark in the textile industry's exhibition landscape, poised to break records in both attendance and participation from countries worldwide.
Energy costs, constituting up to 15 per cent of turnover for textile finishing companies, are a significant economic burden. To address this, Karl Mayer Group has introduced Cascade, an innovative system designed to slash energy consumption in the drying processes of its Prosize sizing machines and Bluedye dyeing systems.
Cascade leverages steam as a heating medium in cylinder dryers, offering substantial energy savings and reduced carbon dioxide emissions. By recirculating process steam within the machine, Cascade significantly lowers the need for fresh steam. According to Karl-Heinz Vaassen, Head of Textile Drying at Karl Mayer, this approach enables "genuine, efficient energy recycling."
The financial benefits are notable. A 14-cylinder dryer running 7,000 hours annually in the Asian market can save up to $17,000 per year. The system's dashboard provides real-time data on steam circulation, allowing precise tracking of energy and carbon dioxide savings.
Cascade operates by utilizing the pressure drop across the dryer sections. The highest pressure in the first section condenses steam without temperature loss, and the hot condensate is fed into a flash tank, generating vapor exhaust through pressure reduction. Instead of being wasted, this "freshly recycled steam" is used to heat the second cylinder section after mixing with live steam.
This patented system, integrated into Prosize machines from January 2024, debuted at ITM 2024 in Istanbul to great acclaim. The first upgraded machine will be delivered to a European manufacturer in the second quarter of 2024. Future plans include extending Cascade to other dryer types and the Bluedye system.
Berlin Fashion Week (BFW) and Copenhagen Fashion Week (CPHFW) have joined hands in an innovative partnership aimed at accelerating sustainability efforts within the fashion industry. The collaboration, introduces the Sustainability Requirements framework pioneered by CPHFW to Berlin Fashion Week, making it a mandatory criterion for show brands. This strategic move aligns the sustainability endeavors of two influential fashion hubs, marking a pivotal moment for both the Nordic and German fashion markets.
Supported by a grant from the Berlin Senate Department for Economic Affairs, Energy, and Public Enterprises, and executed by Fashion Council Germany in collaboration with Studio MM04, this initiative signals a significant leap towards establishing Berlin as a leading global destination for responsible and innovative fashion. Michael Biel, State Secretary for Economic Affairs, emphasized Berlin's commitment to sustainability, highlighting the city's investment of 180,000 euros until 2025 to foster a culture of eco-consciousness and innovation.
Scott Lipinski, CEO of Fashion Council Germany, expressed pride in partnering with Copenhagen Fashion Week, renowned for its sustainability initiatives. By integrating the Sustainability Requirements, Lipinski underscores the commitment to higher ethical standards and serves as a beacon for responsible practices within the industry.
CecilieThorsmark, CEO of Copenhagen Fashion Week, hailed the partnership as a significant step towards industry alignment and urged fashion weeks and councils worldwide to embrace collaborative efforts for positive change. The joint venture aims to onboard approximately 35 brands onto the official Berlin Fashion Week show schedule, with the Minimum Standards becoming a mandatory criterion by February 2026.
The Sustainability Requirements, introduced by Copenhagen Fashion Week in 2020 and updated in 2024 to reflect industry advancements and EU policies, have garnered global recognition. With initiatives like the government-funded program "FremtidensTekstiler," which selected the framework for SMEs, the fashion industry is poised to undergo transformative change towards a more sustainable future.
Early summer sales figures for US apparel chains offer a glimpse into consumer spending habits. While reports from big-box retailers paint a mixed picture, mall-based apparel chains are showing signs of a comeback.
Mall revival with focus on fashion freshness The story of US apparel retail is one of contrasting fortunes. Mall-based chains like Abercrombie & Fitch (A&F) and American Eagle Outfitters (AEO) are expected to see continued revenue growth, with on-trend styles like wide-leg pants. Gap Inc. also anticipates a modest increase in comparable sales, hoping its focus on in-season trends will drive full-price purchases.
This optimism stems from data provided by Columbia Threadneedle Investments, where senior analyst Mari Shor highlights a trend of "share gainers and losers" – brands capitalizing on fresh styles are pulling ahead, according to. “We're seeing positive signs in traditional apparel, fueled by exciting new styles like wide-leg pants," says Shor. "While overall category growth remains slow, there's a widening gap between successful and struggling brands." This renewed focus on fresh styles aims to attract shoppers this summer, while cleaner inventories allow retailers to offer fewer discounted items, boosting profit margins.
Value reigns supreme
However, the apparel market isn't a monolith. Consumers are hesitant to splurge on discretionary items like electronics and furniture, favoring value over premium. This trend benefits discount giants.
Walmart: Leads the US apparel market with a dominant market share, followed closely by Target, according to GlobalData. Their recent strong quarterly results highlight the appeal of value-driven apparel.
Off-price retailers: TJX Companies (TJ Maxx, Marshalls, etc.) and Ross Stores also reported solid results, collectively capturing 5 per cent of the US apparel market share as per GlobalData. Gap's Old Navy brand holds a smaller 1.3 per cent share. This suggests a consumer focus on value, echoing the strong performance of Walmart, the overall market leader.
Walmart CEO John Furner emphasized apparel and online fashion as bright spots during their earnings call. Conversely, Target's overall performance was disappointing, with apparel being a rare positive. “This suggests a potential shift towards a more balanced spending pattern between essential and non-essential items in the coming years,” said Target CEO Brian Cornell during his earnings call.
Picky yet resilient consumer
US consumer confidence remains relatively stable despite inflation concerns. A strong labor market provides some financial buffer, contributing to sustained retail sales in recent months. "Consumers have become more selective in their purchases, leading to a mixed bag of winners and losers in the retail landscape," explains Neil Saunders, Managing Director of GlobalData.
Investors meanwhile are closely watching brand-specific performance. A&F, whose stock has grown nearly 70 per cent this year, is expected to report strong Q1 earnings. AEO and Gap are also in focus, with Gap hoping to break a five-quarter sales decline streak by offering in-season merchandise at full price. While cleaner inventories and a focus on trendy styles bode well for these brands, the overall picture remains uncertain.
Kering, a leading luxury goods conglomerate, has appointed Laurent Claquin as its Group Chief Brand Officer, effective July 1st, 2024. This strategic move, under the helm of Deputy CEO Jean-Marc Duplaix, signifies Kering's commitment to fortifying its corporate brand identity and expanding its global footprint.
Claquin's tenure as President of Kering Americas since 2012 and his extensive leadership experience within the group, including roles in communications and corporate social responsibility, position him well for this pivotal role. His mandate encompasses synchronizing Kering's communication strategies across diverse regions, leveraging a unified editorial calendar, and spearheading high-profile events to bolster brand initiatives.
The creation of this role underscores Kering's ambition to maintain consistent messaging across all touchpoints, amplifying brand visibility and influence. Claquin's multifaceted background, spanning luxury retail and cultural institutions, equips him to navigate the complexities of Kering's diverse portfolio. His appointment reflects Kering's dedication to strategic growth and brand excellence in the dynamic luxury landscape.
Cascale, formerly known as the Sustainable Apparel Coalition, is set to host its Manufacturer Forum: Shanghai on June 28 at the Shanghai New International Expo Center. This event is part of an annual series designed to amplify the voices of global manufacturers, focusing on local challenges and providing solutions through Cascale’s Higg Index tools and various impact initiatives. The forum is held in collaboration with ISPO Shanghai, a prominent summer trade show.
Following successful events in Bangalore, Dhaka, and Shenzhen, the Shanghai forum aims to foster pre-competitive collaboration, share best practices, and address critical industry challenges. Keynote speakers include Cascale's new CEO, Colin Browne, and Scott Raskin, CEO of Worldly, Cascale’s technology partner and event sponsor.
Colin Browne emphasized that China stands as a leading production hub, with its manufacturers playing a pivotal role in driving transformative changes. He highlighted their essential contribution to combating climate change and ensuring decent work conditions, underscoring their importance in achieving shared goals. Browne's primary focus is on fostering global collaboration with manufacturers to develop solutions that will revolutionize the consumer goods industry.
Scott Raskin noted that many of Worldly's customers are Chinese manufacturers. He explained that the forum would enhance their collaboration by providing these manufacturers with advanced tools and insights to achieve their sustainability objectives.
The event, themed “Catalyst for Change,” is expected to attract over 200 attendees. It will cover topics such as global policy, strategic partnerships, Higg FEM evolution, decarbonization impacts, and Science-Based Targets training for decarbonization. Sponsors include Worldly, Benchmarks, TÜV Rheinland, ESTS Global, and Stantec.
Lenzing Group, a global leader in wood-based specialty fibers, has partnered with tech start-up Exponent Envirotech to launch Ecohues, an innovative waterless dyeing technology. This breakthrough is now applied to Lenzing'sTencellyocell and modal fibers, as well as LenzingEcovero viscose fibers, marking the first time Ecohues has been used on cellulosic fibers. The collaboration also includes Hong Kong-based knitwear manufacturer Cobalt Fashion, aiming to bring this sustainable dyeing method to the mainstream textile market.
Ecohues offers a significant environmental advantage by using a non-aqueous solvent that is 99.8 per cent reusable, reducing water usage by 95 per cent compared to traditional methods. Traditional dyeing processes require about 120 tons of water per ton of yarn, while Ecohues eliminates this need, streamlining pre-treatment and finishing processes, and reducing dyeing time from 12 hours to 6-8 hours. The technology also cuts out the use of salt, a common dyeing assistant, reducing the salinity in wastewater. It saves 40 per cent on dyestuff and ensures a color fixation rate of over 97 per cent, outperforming traditional dyeing.
Rex Mok, Director of Technical Marketing and Development at Lenzing, highlighted the company's commitment to sustainability, stating that the collaboration is a step towards reforming conventional textile practices. Wesley Choi, Chairman of Exponent Envirotech, emphasized the project's alignment with sustainable production and responsible materials.
The knitwear collection, produced by Cobalt Fashion using Lenzing'sfibers dyed with Ecohues, exemplifies how this technology can enhance performance while meeting consumer demand for style and sustainability. Andrew Dixon, SVP of Merchandising at Cobalt Fashion, stressed the importance of this partnership in reducing carbon emissions and water usage, paving the way for a more sustainable textile industry.
Pure London x JATC, set to grace the Olympia Events from July 14-16, 2024, is gearing up to host an impressive array of returning favorites in the retail realm. Among the distinguished brands making a comeback are Another Sunday, La Fee Maraboutee, Humility, Access, and LueL, promising attendees a showcase of innovation and style across various fashion categories.
Gloria Sandrucci, Pure London Event Director, expressed her enthusiasm, highlighting the confidence and anticipation surrounding this season's joint venture. She emphasized the collaborative strength that comes from uniting brands under one roof, fostering an environment conducive to creativity and commerce.
Womenswear steals the spotlight with Goose Island's latest collection, embracing the vibrant hues of this season's color palette. Founded by fashion entrepreneurs Anita Mehan and Rita Abrol, Another Sunday's offerings echo empowerment and timeless femininity through their versatile designs.
NISSA returns with a focus on quality fabrics and contemporary silhouettes, while French brand Humility reimagines wardrobe essentials with a modern twist. La Fee Maraboutee entices with eclectic collections inspired by travel and cultural fusion, presenting a timeless blend of influences and contrasts.
Estelle Frelatre, Director of Wholesale and Retail at La Fee Maraboutee and Humility, underscored the global appeal of Pure London x JATC, citing its role as a premier platform for international visibility and business expansion. The event serves as a nexus for networking and forging strategic partnerships, opening doors to new distribution channels and market opportunities.
Love Rocks, led by Michael Waterman, showcases an eclectic range of fashion jewellery catering to diverse tastes and occasions. Ethically conscious visitors will find solace in brands like NilaRubia and LueL, known for their sustainable practices and artisanal craftsmanship.
Kris-Ana stands out with its innovative bag-in-a-bag designs, seamlessly blending fashion with functionality. Each creation exudes timeless elegance while meeting the demands of modern lifestyles.
With its stellar lineup of returning brands and a platform conducive to growth and collaboration, Pure London x JATC is poised to make a significant impact on the global fashion scene, setting the stage for innovation and creativity in the industry.
The global textile industry is undergoing a significant shift towards sustainable practices. One key area of focus is recycled cotton fiber, a market poised for significant growth in the coming years.
The global recycled cotton fiber market is estimated to have reached a value of $1.2 billion in 2023 as per industry reports. It's projected to move ahead at a CAGR of over 15 per cent from 2023-28 period, reaching $2.5 billion by 2028. This exponential growth reflects the increasing adoption of sustainable practices by textile manufacturers and growing consumer awareness about the environmental impact of the fashion industry.
Production and consumption trends
Data suggests a positive trend in both production and consumption of recycled cotton fiber. Global production of recycled cotton fibers is steadily increasing, albeit lagging slightly behind consumption. This indicates a growing demand that the market is striving to meet.
Table: Global production and consumption of recycled cotton fibers
|
Year |
Production (mn tons) |
Consumption (mn tons) |
|
2020 |
0.35 |
0.28 |
|
2021 |
0.42 |
0.34 |
|
2022 (Est.) |
0.51 |
0.4 |
Asia Pacific leads the pack, accounting for over 60 per cent of global production. China is the undisputed leader in production. India too has emerged as a major player. China boasts of a robust infrastructure for textile waste collection and processing, making it the world's largest producer of recycled cotton fibers. Meanwhile, countries like Italy, Germany, and Spain are actively investing in innovative recycling technologies, propelling them to the forefront of European production. The US is witnessing significant growth in the recycled cotton fiber sector, driven by rising consumer eco-consciousness and government support for sustainable initiatives.
On the consumption side, the story unfolds differently. Europe is the frontrunner, driven by stringent environmental regulations and a high level of consumer awareness regarding sustainability. Brands across the continent are actively incorporating recycled cotton into their product lines. North America displays a growing appetite for recycled cotton, with major fashion retailers and brands embracing eco-conscious practices. Asia Pacific, meanwhile a production powerhouse, has room for growth in terms of consumption as consumer education on sustainable fashion picks up pace. In fact, this region is expected to witness the fastest growth in recycled cotton consumption in the coming years, with a growing middle class and rising awareness about environmental issues.
The growing demand has seen several companies now moving in to manufacture recycled cotton. For example, Recover, has emerged as a leading manufacturer of recycled cotton fibers. They exemplify the industry's commitment to sustainability. Their innovative technology transforms pre-consumer and post-consumer textile waste into high-quality recycled cotton, minimizing environmental impact. Recover's success story underscores the immense potential of this sector. Similarly, Everlane, this US-based clothing brand champions transparency and sustainability. Their transparency in sourcing and production processes resonates with environmentally conscious consumers. Their ReCotton collection utilizes pre-consumer waste to create high-quality garments.
Challenges and opportunities
However despite its growing popularity recycled cotton manufacturers face several challenges.
Limited supply: Currently, the supply of recycled cotton fiber lags behind demand. This presents an opportunity for companies to invest in infrastructure and innovation to increase recycling capacity.
Sorting and contamination: Effectively sorting different fiber types and minimizing contamination in recycled cotton streams are crucial for maintaining fiber quality. New technologies like near-infrared spectroscopy offer promising solutions.
Quality concerns: Maintaining consistent fiber quality across batches remains a challenge.
Consumer awareness: While awareness of recycled cotton is growing, there's a need for further education on its benefits and quality. Collaboration between brands and retailers can bridge this gap.
Moving ahead, investing in innovative mechanical and chemical recycling technologies will be key to scaling up production and improving fiber quality. Also, developing efficient systems for sorting and collecting pre- and post-consumer textile waste is essential to ensure a steady supply of high-quality feedstock. Collaboration between brands, retailers, recyclers, and policymakers is crucial to build a robust and sustainable recycled cotton ecosystem.
The recycled cotton fiber market is on an exciting path. By addressing the challenges and capitalizing on the opportunities, the industry can play a significant role in creating a more sustainable and circular textile industry. As consumer demand for eco-friendly products continues to rise, recycled cotton fiber is poised to become a mainstream material in the years to come.
From July 1 to 3, 2024, the Paris Expo Porte de Versailles will host the highly anticipated Texworld Apparel Sourcing Paris, Europe's leading platform for textile and apparel sourcing. This three-day event is set to attract over a thousand exhibitors, offering a rich global selection for fashion brands ranging from ready-to-wear to luxury.
A new summer edition in Paris
This summer edition of Texworld Apparel Sourcing Paris consolidates Messe Frankfurt France's entire textile and apparel offerings under one roof. The event includes Texworld for fabrics and trims, Apparel Sourcing for finished apparel and fashion accessories, Avantex for innovative and sustainable fashion solutions, and Leatherworld for the leather industry, covering everything from raw materials to finished products.
Global representation
This year, exhibitors from 26 countries will converge in Paris, showcasing the diversity of the global market. Key sourcing nations such as China, India, Turkey, Korea, Taiwan, Pakistan, and Bangladesh will be represented, alongside other countries like Hong Kong, Thailand, Indonesia, Rwanda, South Africa, Ethiopia, and the Netherlands. National pavilions will highlight the unique offerings from countries like Turkey, supported by the Istanbul Chamber of Commerce (ITO), and Korea, represented by the National Union of Textile Manufacturers (KOFOTI). Indian manufacturers will also showcase their expertise under Texprocil, reflecting the country's strategic importance in the textile industry.
Highlights and innovations
Taiwanese companies, supported by the Taiwan Textile Federation (TTF), will present sustainable fabrics ideal for activewear. These manufacturers will be featured in the Econogy Finder, Messe Frankfurt's sustainability initiative. The Denim Village, will span nearly 1,000 meter square, featuring 30 international exhibitors. Highlight Denim, curated by artistic directors Louis Gerin and Gregory Lamaud, will showcase standout products.
Leatherworld will feature approximately 20 exhibitors hailing from South Africa, Pakistan, China, Taiwan, and Italy. The new Leather Trend feature will present current leather market trends in partnership with Edizioni AF and the Arsutoria School design center. This area will include mini-conferences on diverse materials used in shoe and bag manufacturing, offering a technical and comprehensive view of the leather industry.
Expanded offerings for Apparel Sourcing
Apparel Sourcing will welcome over 500 manufacturers from traditional sourcing countries and emerging markets like Rwanda, Myanmar, and Ethiopia. India, making a significant return with over 50 garment manufacturers, underscores its crucial role in global textile sourcing. The Near Sourcing Hub will feature around 50 companies from Portugal, Turkey, Serbia, and Morocco, linking physical samples to detailed digital information via QR codes and the B2B platform Foursource.
Concept store products and the designer hub
This year, Apparel Sourcing is expanding to include new categories like jewelry and bags, reflecting the trend of retailers broadening their brand territories. A 300 meter square "Chinese Brands Gallery" will showcase 30 manufacturers aiming to penetrate the European market directly.
The Avantex sector will feature over 20 suppliers offering innovative solutions for sustainable fashion, with a new Designer Hub to foster creativity and collaboration. This hub will support initiatives by stylists like Jean-Luc François, Maeva Elfassi, and Rozz Connor, aiming to bridge the gap between designers and buyers.
Yarn expo and the Avantex Fashion pitch
A new pavilion dedicated to yarns, organized in partnership with Yarn Expo from Shanghai, will showcase cutting-edge products from China, India, Pakistan, and Taiwan. Visitors can explore innovations like the Greencell yarn range from AceGreen and recycled polyester yarns from Suzhou Make It Fiber.
The Avantex Fashion Pitch competition will highlight innovative fashion and textile projects, with the winner receiving a "Start-Up" booth for the next edition, a €2,000 prize, and a one-year incubation period at the IFA school's Foundry. Last year’s winner, AwareTM, will return to exhibit its blockchain-based traceability solution.
Conclusion
Texworld Apparel Sourcing Paris promises a comprehensive and dynamic experience for industry professionals, with a focus on sustainability, innovation, and global collaboration. From exploring the latest trends in fabrics, leather, and yarns to engaging with new concept store products and sustainable solutions, attendees will have the opportunity to discover and connect with key players shaping the future of the fashion industry.
