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The American textile and apparel industry is facing continued uncertainty as the Biden administration maintains tariffs imposed on Chinese imports during the Trump era since 2018. These tariffs, originally intended to pressure China on trade practices, are having a ripple effect across the US industry, raising concerns for both businesses and consumers.
Tariffs here to stay
The tariffs, implemented in stages throughout 2018 and 2019, added an additional 10 per cent duty on billions of dollars worth of Chinese goods, including textiles and apparel. While a ‘Phase One’ trade deal in 2020 saw some tariff reductions on specific categories, many textiles remain subject to the increased duties. “The continued tariffs are a major concern for US apparel companies,” says Rick Helfenbein, President and CEO of the American Apparel & Footwear Association. "These additional taxes make it difficult for American companies to compete with China on price, ultimately hurting US consumers."
Retailers are caught between rising costs due to tariffs and pressure to maintain competitive prices for consumers. “We’re seeing margins shrink as we absorb some of the tariff costs, but we can’t raise prices excessively or risk losing customers,” said Susan Allen, spokesperson for the National Retail Federation.
Industry divided
The impact of the tariffs is a source of division within the industry. Some domestic manufacturers see the tariffs as a positive step, leveling the playing field against cheaper Chinese imports. “The tariffs have created an opportunity for American apparel companies to win back market share,” explains Olivia Jones, spokesperson for the National Textile Producers Association. "We've seen a resurgence in domestic manufacturing in recent years, and the tariffs are helping to accelerate that trend."
While some companies have begun sourcing materials from other countries like Vietnam, the transition is slow and disrupts existing supply chains. “Moving production is a complex process,” explained John Lee, CEO of Evergreen Apparel. “It takes time to find reliable partners and ensure quality. In the meantime, these tariffs are a burden on our business.”
However, many larger retailers and apparel brands rely heavily on Chinese suppliers due to their lower production costs. These companies argue that the tariffs are driving up their costs, which they are forced to pass on to consumers in the form of higher prices. The cost of these tariffs is ultimately passed down to consumers in the form of higher prices for clothing and other textile goods. A recent study by the Peterson Institute for International Economics predicts an average price increase of 4 per cent for American consumers.
Experts predict that the continued tariffs will likely lead to a combination of higher prices for American consumers and a shift in sourcing for apparel companies. Some companies may look to diversify their supply chains, seeking out manufacturers in Vietnam, Bangladesh, or other countries. However, this process can be slow and complex.
“In the short term, consumers should expect to see clothing prices continue to rise,” said David Jones, a retail analyst at Georgetown University. "The long-term impact is less clear, but it's possible that we could see a return to a more diversified apparel manufacturing landscape in the US."
The Biden administration is currently reviewing the tariffs, but no decision on their future has been announced. The issue remains a point of contention, with both the potential benefits of a stronger domestic industry and the drawbacks of higher consumer prices to consider.
Despite the massive growth of e-commerce, a new report by Cushman & Wakefield (C&W), a global real estate services firm, paints a surprising picture of Europe's luxury retail sector – one brimming with resilience and growth. Their first-ever ‘European Luxury Retail Report’ delves into key trends shaping the landscape.
New stores galore
A key takeaway is the significant number of new store openings. In 2023, there were 107 new boutiques across 20 key luxury streets in 16 European cities. This surge reflects a 70 per cent increase compared to pre-pandemic levels, according to the report. This translates to a strong showing, particularly considering the limited vacancies in these prime locations. Seven of these streets boasted zero vacancies, while 16 had vacancy rates below 5 per cent.
Interestingly, the report also indicates a trend towards larger stores. Luxury brands are seeking expansive spaces on prominent avenues. This is likely a strategic move to elevate the customer experience and showcase a wider range of products.
France, Italy, and UK top draws
Geographically, the report finds no surprises. The bastions of European luxury - France, Italy, and the UK - continue to dominate the scene. Over 40 per cent of the new store openings in 2023 were concentrated in these three countries. Cities like Paris, Milan, and London remain magnets for high-end brands and affluent shoppers. Classic destinations like Paris' Avenue Montaigne and London's Bond Street continue to be magnets for high-end retailers and affluent shoppers.
Surprising strength, contradicting e-commerce boom
C&W's findings challenge the notion that physical stores are withering under the pressure of online retail. “The continuing attractiveness of well-established luxury retail locations...” says the report, “highlights the ongoing importance of physical stores.” However, experts point to several reasons for this resilience.
Experience over transaction: Luxury retail is as much about the experience as the product. Flagship stores offer personalized service, exclusive product lines, and brand immersion that e-commerce can't fully replicate.
Tourist return boosts demand: The report credits the return of tourists, particularly from high-spending regions like China and the Middle East, for driving demand in key European luxury destinations.
So, what does the future hold for luxury stores? The report suggests a move towards experiential retail. Physical stores are no longer just about transactions; they're about creating a memorable brand experience that fosters customer loyalty. This might include hosting exclusive events, offering personalized services, or integrating cutting-edge technology to enhance the shopping experience. “Luxury retail is all about human connection,” says Sally Bruer, Head of European Retail Research at Cushman & Wakefield. “While e-commerce offers convenience, physical stores provide a platform for brands to truly engage with their customers and create a lasting impression.”
For example, consider the recent opening of a sprawling Dior flagship on Paris' Avenue Montaigne. The store boasts an art gallery, a cafe, and personalization services, all designed to create a memorable and luxurious shopping experience that can't be replicated online.
Cushman & Wakefield's report upends the narrative of a dying physical luxury retail sector. Instead, it reveals a market that is adapting and thriving. While e-commerce remains a major force, physical stores are not going away. They are evolving into experience-driven destinations, offering a unique value proposition that complements the online shopping experience.
Cotton sowing in the cotton-rich region of North Telangana, may commence up to two weeks earlier if the early rains continue. After focusing on election campaigns, cotton farmers are now preparing their land in anticipation of an early monsoon.
The Cotton Association of India (CAI) has maintained its estimate for cotton pressing during the current trading season, ending on September 30, at 309.7 lakh bales, each weighing 170 kg. The total cotton supply is estimated at 315.86 lakh bales. Including the opening stock of 28.9 lakh bales and export shipments of 21.5 lakh bales, the total supply reaches 359 lakh bales. According Atul S Ganatra, President, CAI, cotton consumption up to the end of April 2024 was 192.8 lakh bales.
Cotton pressing estimates for Telangana have also been upwardly revised by 1 lakh bales to 35 lakh bales.
Following the recent launch of its 'Timelesz' line, Zara continues to enhance its kids' division. The Inditex-led brand has infused a Japanese touch into its children's wear launching a new ‘jinbei’ collection. The collection customises the jinbei, the traditional Japanese summer garment akin to a kimono specifically for children and makes it available on the brand's online platform and in select stores.
This new line features two models: a romper with a V-neck and short sleeves for babies aged one to nine months, priced at €19.95, and a two-piece set for babies aged nine to 18 months, priced at €22.95. Each style is offered in three distinct designs, including geometric prints, floral motifs, and a navy blue color block option. The garments are primarily crafted from organic cotton certified by OCS or viscose, and they are produced in Spain.
With this launch, Zara not only diversifies its product offerings but also strengthens its international expansion strategy, particularly targeting Asian markets. This move further solidifies its position in the children's wear segment.
Zara's children's division gained significant momentum following the closure of Massimo Dutti's children's line in 2020. This strategic decision aimed to streamline and enhance Zara's offerings for young children. By the end of 2022, the initiative was further supported by the complete absorption of Kiddy’s Class, Inditex’s children's fashion subsidiary, simplifying the overall structure.
Founded in 1974, Zara had a retail network of 1,811 stores by the end of last year, encompassing both company-operated and franchised points of sale. As part of the Galician Inditex portfolio, Zara stands alongside brands such as Massimo Dutti, Bershka, Stradivarius, Pull&Bear, Oysho, Zara Home, and Lefties.
Zara, which reports its financial results together with Zara Home, recorded a 10 per cent increase in sales in the fiscal year 2023 compared to the previous year, reaching €26.05 billion.
Hong Kong-listed group, Esprit Holdings has filed for insolvency ‘under self-administration’ for seven subsidiaries in Düsseldorf, Germany. The affected businesses include Esprit Europe GmbH and six other German subsidiaries. The reasons cited for bankruptcy include high rent, labor and energy costs, the after-effects of the coronavirus pandemic, and international conflicts as reasons for financial unviability in Germany.
Esprit operates in over 40 countries with headquarters in Germany and Hong Kong. The insolvency may impact other European businesses, as some affected German entities are shareholders in Esprit companies in France, the UK, and Poland. Esprit has already filed for bankruptcy in Belgium and Switzerland in March.
No shop closures have been announced yet, but 1,500 jobs are at risk. Subsidiary management is working on restructuring plans, and the group is seeking new funding opportunities. Potential investors are interested in strategic partnerships, with Reuters noting an advanced-stage discussion for acquiring Esprit's European brand rights.
Marking a significant cultural shift in a country where, less than a decade ago, women were required to wear body-covering abaya robes, Saudi Arabia recently held its inaugural fashion show featuring models in a swimsuits. The poolside event showcased the designs of Moroccan designer Yasmina Qanzal, who presented a collection of mostly one-piece swimsuits in shades of red, beige, and blue. Many models had exposed shoulders, and some displayed partially visible midriffs.
Through this fashion show, the designer aimed to present elegant swimsuits reflecting the Arab world, notes Qanzal. Hosting the show was a groundbreaking moment for Saudi Arabia as it was the first event of its kind in the country, adds Qanzal.
The fashion show was held on the second day of the inaugural Red Sea Fashion Week at the St Regis Red Sea Resort, located off Saudi Arabia's western coast. This resort is a component of Red Sea Global, one of the ambitious giga-projects central to Saudi Arabia's Vision 2030, a social and economic reform initiative led by Crown Prince Mohammed bin Salman.
Since ascending as first in line to the throne in 2017, Crown Prince Mohammed has spearheaded a series of sweeping social reforms aimed at softening Saudi Arabia's traditionally strict image, which has been heavily influenced by Wahhabism, a purist form of Islam. These reforms have included reducing the influence of the once-dominant religious police, who previously enforced prayer times by chasing men out of malls, as well as reintroducing cinemas and organising mixed-gender music festivals.
While interacting with an APTMA delegation led by Kamran Arshad, Chairman-North Zone; Shafay Hussain, Punjab Minister for Industries, Commerce and Investment assured All Pakistan Textile Mills Association (APTMA) of expediting development of industrial parks in Punjab to boost apparel exports.
The delegation also included Asad Shafi, Senior Vice Chairman; M Ali, Executive and M Raza Baqir, Secretary General. The minister informed that the Punjab chief minister has recently set up a high-powered committee headed by provincial minister for industries to examine and understand the best practices across the world in general and Bangladesh in particular for the establishment and operation of garments cities on the pattern of 'Plug and Play Model'.
He added that such industrial parks will be equipped with the state-of-the-art infrastructure to attract foreign and local investors. The committee would make recommendations on all aspects of the setting up of Garments Parks either in the existing industrial estates or on new sites. Arshad applauded Gohar Ejaz, Patron-in-Chief, APTMA for proposing the vision of apparel cities in the province by constructing modern industrial zones dedicated to garment manufacturing.
These cities will attract local and international investors by leveraging competitive advantages like low-cost labor and favorable trade status, and boost textile exports by $12 billion, he added. These industrial zones are crucial for overall economic growth, as they stimulate industrial activity, attract investment, and foster economic development, he emphasised.
Shafi explained, each of these parks will be spread over 2,000 acre with five districts each. Around 400 stitching units of 2 acre each with a covered area of 100,000 sq ft will be established in each park. The parks will be built with an investment of $2 million each and house fully built up 100 garment factories with 1,000 stitching machines.
A delegation of Pakistan Coating Association (PCA) called on Chaudhry Shafay Hussain, Provincial Minister of Industry and Commerce at Tevta Secretariat to discuss the productivity of paint industry, import of raw materials and problems of the industry. On this occasion, an MoU was signed between Tevta and PCA to facilitate mutual cooperation in the preparation of courses and skilled manpower as per the requirement of the industry.
Hussain termed the MoU of cooperation with the paint industry as a welcome sign and assured that Tevta can provide skilled manpower to the paint industry. Courses related to the coating industry will be introduced in Tevta's institutions. A 3-year paint and ink modern course will be started in Tevta's colleges in Lahore while 6-month courses will also be introduced, Hussain added.
The proposed Mini Textile Park Scheme will benefit the Tiruchi weaving industry by streamlining production and sharing facilities among weavers.
The textile ministry is accelerating the establishment of small clusters in the town to enhance the textile sector's productivity. Firms joining this initiative will benefit from shared production facilities, reducing the need for outsourcing, explained a senior official from the Department of Handlooms and Textiles, Tiruchi.
The scheme offers financial assistance of up to Rs 2.5 crore to entrepreneurs. Initiatives like these could make previously unprofitable handloom operations viable by unifying their efforts, believe observers. The scheme is expected to be introduced in Tiruchi shortly.
The scheme will integrate modern concepts like effluent treatment facilities. It would help the sector thrive sustainably through proper monitoring of the textile industries in cities like Tiruppur, Coimbatore, and Erode, says P Rajappa, President, Tiruchi District Tiny and Small Scale Industries Association (TIDTTSSIA).
However, the requirement for participants to procure 2 acre might be challenging for many potential participants, notes Rajappa. A similar initiative could encourage local manufacturers to pool their resources, potentially transforming the region into an engineering production hub,” he adds.
The European Union (EU) has ushered in a new era for sustainable clothing with the implementation of the Corporate Sustainability Due Diligence Directive (EUCSDDD). This legislation, effective in phases starting 2027, will significantly impact the textiles and apparel industry, forcing brands to clean up their act and prioritize environmental and human rights considerations throughout their supply chains.
What does the EUCSDDD entail
The EUCSDDD mandates large companies (with over 1,000 employees and specific turnover thresholds) to conduct thorough due diligence across their operations. This means mapping their entire supply chain, from raw material sourcing to production and distribution, and identifying potential human rights violations and environmental damage. The directive focuses on:
Eradicating human rights abuses: Forced labor, unsafe working conditions, and discrimination are some of the concerns the EUCSDDD aims to address in the garment industry. Companies will be held accountable for ensuring ethical labor practices throughout their supply chains.
Combating environmental impact: The fashion industry is a major contributor to pollution and resource depletion. The EUCSDDD compels brands to identify and mitigate environmental issues such as water pollution from dyeing, excessive waste generation, and greenhouse gas emissions.
Map their supply chains: From raw material sourcing to production and distribution, companies must gain a comprehensive understanding of their operations' impact.
Implement action plans: Companies must demonstrate concrete steps to address identified risks. This could involve partnering with ethical suppliers, adopting sustainable materials, and promoting fair labor practices.
A turning point for the fashion industry
The EUCSDDD is a game-changer for the textiles and apparel sector. And there are several reasons for this. To being with it will increase transparency. Previously opaque supply chains will be exposed, forcing brands to be accountable for their sourcing practices. Consumers can expect greater transparency about the origin and production methods of their clothing.
It will boost sustainable materials and manufacturing as brands will now be incentivized to source sustainable materials like organic cotton and recycled fibers. Additionally, they will need to adopt cleaner production processes to minimize environmental impact.
Improve working conditions as the directive's focus on human rights will lead to better working conditions for garment workers, promoting fair wages, safe working environments, and freedom of association.
While the directive presents challenges, it also offers significant opportunities. Brands that embrace sustainability can gain a competitive edge. Consumers are increasingly demanding ethical and eco-friendly products, and the EUCSDDD can help companies cater to this growing market segment. The phased implementation of the EUCSDDD begins in 2027 with larger companies, giving them time to adapt. However, the directive is expected to have a ripple effect throughout the global fashion industry, as brands worldwide strive to comply with EU regulations to continue selling in the European market.
The EUCSDDD is a positive step towards a more responsible and sustainable future for fashion. It paves the way for a future where ethically produced, environmentally friendly clothing becomes the norm. As the directive unfolds, consumers can expect to see a significant transformation in the way their clothes are made and sourced.
The US-China trade war, marked by tariff hikes, has led to a surge in US imports from Vietnam. However, Vietnam's success in capturing market share from China comes with a twist: it relies heavily on Chinese inputs for its exports.
Statistics reveal a clear picture. Vietnam's trade surplus with the US increased to nearly $105 billion in 2023, more than double the figure in 2018. US imports from Vietnam more than doubled since 2018, exceeding $114 billion in 2023. Moreover, there's a strong correlation (96 per cent) between the value of Vietnam's imports from China and its exports to the US. China remains the primary source of raw materials and components for Vietnam's manufacturing sector, with electronics being the most prominent example (80 per cent import content).
The symbiosis
This situation creates a complex scenario. The rise in US-Vietnam trade reflects the movement of manufacturing facilities from China to Vietnam. This trend is likely driven by companies seeking to avoid US tariffs on Chinese goods. However, despite the relocation, China's role in the supply chain remains crucial. Vietnam heavily relies on Chinese imports for its exports almost one-third of Vietnam's overall imports originate from China. The significant trade imbalance with Vietnam might raise concerns in the US, especially after the upcoming elections. This could lead to a policy change towards Vietnam, potentially including tariffs. The US may view Vietnam as a loophole for Chinese goods to bypass tariffs. Also, Vietnam's dependence on raw materials from Xinjiang, a Chinese region with alleged human rights violations, puts additional pressure on the situation. Vietnam has already faced scrutiny from the US on this issue.
A lot of questions remain unanswered: So, will the US address the growing trade imbalance with Vietnam? How can Vietnam reduce its dependence on China for raw materials and components? Can Vietnam ensure its exports are not linked to human rights violations in Xinjiang?
Table: US-Vietnam trade
|
Year |
US imports from Vietnam ($ bn) |
Vietnam trade surplus with US ($bn) |
|
2018 |
52.3 |
42 |
|
2019 |
74.1 |
58.2 |
|
2020 |
88.7 |
72.4 |
|
2021 |
100.4 |
87.1 |
|
2022 |
114.1 |
104.8 |
As Vietnam seeks market economy status from the US, requiring a balanced trade relationship, higher US scrutiny could disrupt Vietnam's export-driven growth model. The US may have to choose between tamping down the trade gap and potentially raising import costs for consumers.
Vietnam's trade success is intricately linked to China. While it has benefited from the US-China trade war, its heavy reliance on Chinese components and potential human rights violations in its supply chain raise concerns for the US. The upcoming US elections and Vietnam's ability to address these concerns will be crucial in determining the future trajectory of its trade relationship with the US.
