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The traditional peak season of 2024 for the nylon filament yarn (NFY) market has brought a surprising twist. Unlike last year, where Fully Drawn Yarn (FDY) reigned supreme, Textured Yarn (DTY) has emerged as the hot commodity. This shift can be attributed to a combination of factors impacting global supply and demand.
Rising DTY demand
DTY's fortunes have been closely tied to price trends and consumption patterns. The pandemic's impact in 2022 led to significant overcapacity and a slump in demand, particularly for standard specifications. However, resurgence in travel and outdoor activities in 2023 spurred demand for sun protection products, a key application for DTY. This trend continued into 2024, with DTY finding wider usage in various sectors like leisurewear, underwear, and activewear (including popular styles like shark pants and Barbie pants). The shift in demand from FDY to DTY is a clear sign of changing consumer preferences, say experts. The focus on functionality and comfort in apparel is driving the growth of DTY applications.
Data from industry reports highlights this growth. DTY exports saw a significant jump of 23 per cent year-on-year in 2023, reaching 113,000 tons. The first quarter of 2024 maintained this momentum with a 13 per cent increase in exports. Notably, the demand for DTY specifications has expanded beyond the popular choices of 2021, indicating a broader market acceptance.
Supply chain lags behind
While DTY demand flourishes, the supply side presents a different picture. Unlike DTY, FDY experienced a surge in demand for sun protection products in 2023. This led filament factories to prioritize new capacity additions for FDY, alleviating the tight supply situation in 2024.
In contrast, DTY witnessed its last major capacity expansion in 2021-2022. While demand improved in 2023, it didn't match the fervor for FDY. This limited the incentive for significant new capacity additions for DTY in the following period. As a result, current DTY production is running at full capacity, struggling to keep pace with the rising demand. This supply-demand imbalance is expected to persist in the near future, with backlogs for high-end DTY products becoming a norm. As an expert points out current DTY equipment is already running at full capacity. This means that supply will be difficult to fully match demand in the short term.
Impact on the broader NFY market
The tight supply of DTY also affects upstream segments of the NFY market. The limited availability of mid-to-high-end Partially Oriented Yarn (POY) further complicates the situation. This has led to increased demand for low-end POY, keeping low-end filament factories busy throughout 2024. “The current supply-demand pattern for DTY will likely persist for some time, and backlogging of high-end products will continue to be the norm this year,” says a market analyst specializing in the NFY sector.
Furthermore, nylon filament factories in South China have shifted their production lines from HOY (Heat-Set Oriented Yarn) to POY, leading to a scarcity of HOY. This has pushed processing fees for HOY upwards, with some mid-to-low-end POY filament factories resorting to processing HOY to meet the demand.
The global NFY market is experiencing a shift with DTY taking center stage. While DTY demand flourishes, supply struggles to keep pace. This situation creates opportunities for manufacturers who can adapt and fulfill DTY orders despite the current limitations. The coming months will be crucial to see how the industry responds to this evolving landscape.
The Indian textile industry, a cornerstone of the nation's economy, has set its sights on an ambitious goal: achieving $100 billion in exports by 2030. This target marks a significant leap from the current figures. According to the Directorate General of Commercial Intelligence and Statistics (DGCIS), India's textile and apparel exports witnessed a decline in 2023-24, registering $34.4 billion compared to 35.5billion the previous year. In fact, textiles secretary, Rachna Shah, acknowledged the recent decline in exports but is confident as she opines, "The government will accord focused attention to promote India's textiles exports...We are confident about achieving the $100 billion target by 2030." Indeed the government is undeterred, outlining a roadmap packed with strategic plans and initiatives to navigate the challenges that lie ahead.
The roadmap to textile triumph
The minister for textiles, Piyush Goyal, is confident about achieving the target and the government has a strategic plan to achieve this.
Boosting manufacturing: The Production Linked Incentive (PLI) scheme, launched in 2021, offers financial incentives to attract investments in textile manufacturing, particularly in man-made fibers and technical textiles. This scheme aims to create a more robust domestic manufacturing base and reduce dependence on imports.
Focus on exports: The government is actively pursuing Free Trade Agreements (FTAs) with key markets like the European Union and the Gulf Cooperation Council (GCC) to secure better duty access for Indian textiles. This will make Indian exports more competitive in the global market.
Skilling & upgradation: Recognizing the need for a skilled workforce, the government is investing in skilling initiatives and modernization programs. The government is investing in skilling initiatives through programs like the Textile Sector Skill Council (TSC) this will enhance productivity and quality, allowing Indian textiles to compete with international players.
Brand India textiles: Initiatives like ‘Virasaat, a unique exhibition showcasing India's diverse handloom heritage, and ‘My Sari - My Pride’, a campaign promoting traditional saris, aim to strengthen the brand image of Indian textiles globally. India boasts a rich textile heritage with renowned regional specialties like Kanchipuram silks and Patola saris. Leveraging this heritage by promoting geographically-indicated (GI) tagged products and building a strong brand identity for Indian textiles can be a game-changer.
Challenges and counter-measures
The road to textile supremacy isn't without hurdles. Here are some key challenges and how the government plans to address them.
Competition: Competition from countries like Vietnam and Bangladesh, with lower labor costs, poses a significant challenge. Upgrading technology and focusing on value-added products can help India differentiate itself.
Infrastructure bottlenecks: Streamlining logistics and infrastructure is crucial for faster turnaround times and cost reduction. Initiatives like developing textile parks with improved infrastructure are underway.
Technological adaptation: Embracing technological advancements in areas like automation and artificial intelligence will be essential for efficiency and productivity gains.
Sustainability concerns: Growing environmental consciousness requires the industry to embrace sustainable practices throughout the textile value chain.
The Indian government's roadmap for textile exports is ambitious. While challenges abound, strategic initiatives, combined with industry efforts and innovation, can pave the way for achieving the $100 billion target. Whether India successfully threads its way to textile triumph remains to be seen, but the journey itself promises to be a fascinating one.
Setting new benchmarks, the 17th International Apparel and Textile Fair (IATF), held in Dubai, left an indelible mark on the fashion industry.
Commencing magnificently with an air of grandeur, the 17th IATF was attended by esteemed dignitaries such as Butti Saeed Al Ghandi and Mahir Julfar, Executive Vice-President, Dubai World Trade Centre.
Exceeding expectations, the 17th IATF attracted attendees not only from the Middle East but from around the globe. Over 400 participants from more than 24 countries attended the event this year with pavilions from Italy, Kyrgyzstan, China, Turkey, India, etc., setting a record for the number of exhibitors.
Showcasing extraordinary organisation and seamless execution, the 17th IATF served as a melting pot of diverse cultures and designs with representatives from around the world presenting their most innovative products. Every detail of the event from exhibitor arrangements to networking sessions was meticulously planned, ensuring a flawless experience for participants and visitors.
Reflecting on the fair’s remarkable journey, Bhavna, Show Director, highlighted that the 17th IATF is a testament to Dubai’s thriving fashion landscape.
Visitors to the event were treated to a captivating display of cutting-edge design, groundbreaking innovations, and the latest trends from both established and emerging brands. IATF Dubai proved to be a true launchpad for the future of fashion, offering a glimpse into the ever-evolving world of apparel and textiles.
Beyond the impressive product displays, IATF Dubai offered unparalleled networking opportunities. Dedicated events and matchmaking services enabled industry leaders, established businesses, and aspiring entrepreneurs to connect, forge strategic partnerships, and explore new avenues for growth.
There is a need for a virtual marketplace for the garment business in Bangladesh, says Faruque Hassan, Immediate Past President, BGMEA. It could be set up either through individual companies or a common platform like the BGMEA for all, he adds.
Hassan advises Bangladesh to seize the opportunity accorded by Amazon and Alibaba by successfully selling Bangladeshi garments through their virtual marketplaces. He recommends some minor adjustments to the existing e-commerce policy, such as permitting local companies to engage in international trade and transactions through virtual marketplaces, making amendments in customs and banking regulations to facilitate the launch of such a marketplace in Bangladesh, etc.
Establishing virtual marketplaces will reduce lead times, lower business costs, simplify international trade procedures, and decrease the number of middlemen, ultimately making the business more competitive, states SM Mannan Kochi, President, BGMEA, He aims to advocate for government amendments to the e-commerce policy, aiming to launch a digital marketplace for international garment trade.
Earlier too, the Bangladesh Garment Manufacturers and Exporters Association (BGMEA) had aimed to launch an international virtual marketplace. However, the initiative was halted due to the lack of supporting government policies.
Currently, the National Digital Commerce Policy of 2018 governs only the domestic market and lacks explicit provisions for enabling international e-commerce. As a result, local virtual marketplaces are limited to domestic trade.
In January, the International Finance Corporation (IFC) and LightCastle, on behalf of the BGMEA, conducted a study titled ‘Establishing A Virtual Marketplace for Bangladeshi Apparels.’ The study indicated significant potential for homegrown digital marketplaces to generate $489 million annually by 2027 through garment sales in the US, European Union (EU), and Africa.
The study projected that by 2026, the virtual garment market in the US, EU, and Africa would be worth a combined $308 billion. It estimated that Bangladeshi digital garment markets could capture a 0.20 per cent share of the US market, 0.10 per cent of the EU market, and 0.75 per cent of the African market by 2027.
Bloomingdale’s owner, Macy's has raised its annual profit forecast, indicating the positive results of its cost-reduction strategies including closing of underperforming stores and cutting jobs.
In February, Macy's announced plans to close approximately 150 stores by 2026 as part of a new strategy, expected to save $100 million in costs this year. Concurrently, the company is expanding its more successful brands by opening 15 new Bloomingdale's locations and at least 30 Bluemercury stores.
Macy's has now revised its annual adjusted earnings per share forecast to a range of $2.55 to $2.90, up from the previous estimate of $2.45 to $2.85.
Despite 2024 being viewed as a transition and investment year, Macy's has adjusted its outlook to consider the cautiousness of consumers in their discretionary spending.
The company expects net sales in fiscal 2024 to have ranged between $22.3 billion and $22.9 billion, slightly up from the prior forecast of $22.2 billion to $22.9 billion.
However, the merchandise margin declined by 100 basis points due to increased discounting of slower-moving warm weather products, reducing the gross margin rate to 39.2 per cent from 40 per cent a year earlier.
Macy's reported a 2.7 per cent drop in net sales to $4.85 billion, slightly below analysts' average expectation of a 2.42 per cent decline to $4.86 billion, according to LSEG data.
Despite a recent trend of Chinese shoppers spending more in other markets as they resume traveling, French luxury brand Chanel is moving forward with plans to open more stores in mainland China.
Emphasisng their importance of expanding their presence, Leena Nair, CEO, Chanel, says, the brand, renowned for its tweed suits, quilted handbags, and No. 5 perfume, sees potential in the Chinese market.
During a recent visit to China, Nair observed a keen interest among young shoppers in luxury items, viewing them as long-term financial investments. However, first-quarter sales updates from various luxury brands showed mixed results in mainland China, raising concerns about a swift rebound in Chinese demand for high-end fashion.
This uncertainty clouds the industry's outlook, which had hoped that China would provide a significant boost as post-pandemic spending in the United States and Europe slows.
Chanel has only 18 fashion boutiques in China, compared to the 40 to 50 stores that competing brands operate, notes Philippe Blondiaux, Chief Financial Officer.
Venturing into an unexplored market, luxury fashion house Balenciaga inaugurated its first standalone store in Illinois, Chicago.
Situated at 15 East Oak Street, the 641-sq m, two-level store showcases Balenciaga’s distinctive Raw Architecture concept. This design approach intentionally leaves surfaces untreated and incorporates unique details such as rough edges, free-standing partitions, and a blend of materials. By exposing existing structural elements and minimising the use of new materials, the construction process highlights the building's history.
The store features expansive brushed concrete floors, reminiscent of sidewalk tiles, and walls made of concrete or cement board panels, creating a distinctive indoor/outdoor feel. A large luminous ceiling illuminates key areas, including the shoe section, staircase, and fitting rooms. This radiance is enhanced by suspended ceiling mesh, industrial lighting systems, and other technical fixtures throughout the store.
The interior design evokes a warehouse or studio ambiance, with hot rolled metal tables, angel hair-finish metal shelving, and hanging pipe racks. Seating is upholstered in recycled leather, while underlit shelving, smoked glass panels, inlaid carpet, and high-definition screens add warmth and modernity.
The store features Balenciaga’s latest collections, including men’s and women’s ready-to-wear, shoes, bags, accessories, eyewear, and jewelry.
This opening comes after the debut of a three-floor flagship store in the newly rebuilt Toraya Ginza Building in Ginza, Tokyo, last month.
Valued at $2,586.5 million in 2021, the western wear market in India is projected to grow at a CAGR OF 7.6 per cent to reach $6,041.8 million by 2032, as per the latest report by Allied Market Research
Titled, ‘The India Western Wear Market,’ the report indicates, the surge in disposable income and the expansion of apparel e-retailing have significantly boosted the demand for western wear clothing. The increasing youth population and growing fashion consciousness among consumers are further driving market growth. To keep up with dynamic fashion trends and avoid declining sales of existing clothing, brands are sponsoring fashion events and dressing celebrities to set specific trends. Additionally, manufacturers are collaborating with packaging companies to introduce innovative, eco-friendly packaging solutions like biodegradable barrier trays, further fueling market growth during the forecast period.
The India western wear market has experienced substantial growth, influenced by changing fashion trends, urbanisation, increased disposable income, and the growing influence of Western culture on Indian society.
The market is bifurcated into men and women. The men’s segment currently holds the largest share, with jeans being particularly popular. However, the women’s segment is expected to grow at the highest CAGR, driven by a shift in fashion preferences towards western wear.
The market is classified into casual and formal wear. The formal segment holds the largest market share, with a trend towards incorporating traditional Indian elements into Western styles. The casual wear segment, however, is anticipated to grow at the highest CAGR, as consumers increasingly favor comfort and versatility in everyday clothing.
The market is divided into online platforms, specialty stores, supermarkets, hypermarkets, and brand outlets. In 2021, online platforms held the largest market share and are expected to grow at the highest CAGR. The rise in internet users and the convenience of online shopping have significantly increased the demand for western wear.
Major players in the India western wear market include Aditya Birla Fashion and Retail Limited, Chemistry, H&M Hennes & Mauritz AB, Forever21 Inc., Inditex SA, Mango, Shoppers Stop Ltd., Benetton Group, Vero Moda, and Westside.
Decathlon plans to make an investment in the startup Recyc’Elit through its Decathlon Alliances structure to develop recycled products from textile waste.
Founded in 2019 in France, Recyc’Elit recycles complex polyester-based materials by sorting the fibers. The company now plans to build a prototype for this innovation by 2025.
Recyc’Elit aims to address the challenge of recycling complex textiles, such as polyester mixed with other fibers. Decathlon will purchase this recycled polyester from Recyc’Elit in the long term to maintain its competitive edge and participate in the textile recycling value chain.
The long-term business partnership between Decathlon and Recyc’Elit involves creating a value chain with all committed partners and producing capsule collections.
In October 2023, Recyc’Elit secured €3.2 million from Demeter via Crédit Agricole Création, business angels, the Fonds d’Amorçage Industriel Métropolitain (FAIM) Lyon – Saint Etienne, Banque des Territoires, and the French government as part of the France 2030 initiative.
Decathlon, which operates 1,700 stores, reported €15.6 billion in global sales in 2023, a 1.15 per cent increase, and a net profit of €931 million, up 0.9 per cent.
On 501 Day-the day the world’s first blue jean received its official patent, Levi’s commemorated the iconic blue jean's patent with oversized replicas of the pioneering riveted pant. Across the United States, the legacy brand revealed five pairs of Giant 501 Jeans, towering at 12 ft tall, approximately five times larger than standard pairs.
Every detail of these Giant 501 Jeans, from the Levi’s Red Tab to the stitched arcuate on the back pockets, leather patch, and shrink-to-fit fabric, faithfully replicates the original 501 design. While a typical pair of 501s requires 1.5 yards of denim weighing around 2 lbs., each Giant 501 Jean demanded about 15 yards of denim, weighing 20 lbs.
Crafted by Levi’s Eureka Innovation Lab, these innovations pay homage to the brand's heritage while showcasing advancements in technology and sustainability. While it typically takes an apparel technician at Eureka about two hours to make a standard pair of jeans, each Giant 501 Jean required three days.
The Giant 501 Jeans are now on display at select Levi’s stores: Brickell City Center in Miami, 5th and Broadway in Nashville, Victoria Gardens in Rancho Cucamonga, Calif., Easton Town Center in Columbus, Ohio, and Ala Moana in Honolulu.
This event reflects a growing trend of oversized denim displays, as seen earlier this year with the auction of a 12-foot-tall Levi’s display ad from the 1940s.
Additionally, a collaboration between Turkish mill Orta and Wouter Munnichs resulted in ‘The Biggest Sustainable Jeans,’ a 133x130 size jean made from 27 yards of sustainable fabric, paying homage to historical large denim displays from Levi’s, Wrangler, and Lee.
