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Rising trade tensions cast shadow on Chinas textile industry a double edged sword for India

Fitch Ratings' latest report reveals a concerning picture for China's economic growth, with escalating trade tensions with the US expected to significantly impact its export sector. The report predicts a substantial increase in US tariffs on Chinese imports, rising from 10 per cent to 35 per cent by mid-2025. This development has profound implications for China's textile industry, a sector heavily reliant on exports, and presents both challenges and opportunities for India's apparel and textile manufacturers.

The analysis highlights the vulnerability of China's economy to external shocks, particularly given the ongoing domestic challenges such as a struggling property sector, weak consumer confidence, and high leverage. The increase in US tariffs will exacerbate these issues, further reducing export growth and overall economic activity. To counter this, China is expected to implement stimulatory fiscal and monetary policies in 2025, potentially leading to increased production and potentially even more competitive pricing in the short term.

Impact on China's textile industry

China, a global textile powerhouse, is particularly susceptible to the increased trade tensions. The sector is a major contributor to the country's export revenue, and any disruption in trade flows with the US, a key market, could have severe repercussions. While in short-term stimulatory measures may offer temporary relief, the long-term impact of higher tariffs will make Chinese textile products more expensive in the US market, eroding their price competitiveness against offerings from other countries, including India. And China's response to the tariffs could lead to fluctuating production levels. Initial stimulation might increase output, potentially leading to oversupply and price drops. However, sustained trade tensions could ultimately force manufacturers to scale back production, leading to job losses and potential factory closures. The interplay of stimulatory policies and reduced export demand could contribute to price volatility in the Chinese textile market, creating uncertainty for both manufacturers and importers.

And India stands to gain

While the escalating trade war presents challenges for the global economy, it also creates opportunities for countries like India to expand their presence in the textile and apparel market.

It would lead to higher export opportunities. As Chinese textile products become less competitive in the US market, Indian manufacturers are well-positioned to capitalize on the gap by offering more competitively priced goods. Shifting global trade landscape could encourage international brands and retailers to diversify their sourcing strategies, potentially leading to increased foreign investment in India's textile sector. Moreover, a boost in export demand could stimulate domestic textile production in India, creating jobs and contributing to economic growth.

India's reliance on Chinese raw materials

However, it is crucial to acknowledge India's dependence on China for raw materials in the textile industry. Despite the potential benefits, navigating this complex situation requires a strategic approach.

Table: India's textile raw materials imports from China

Raw material

Imports 2021 ($ bn)

Imports 2022 ($ bn)

Imports 2023 ($ bn)

% change (2021-2023)

Fibres

2.1

2.3

2.8

+33.3%

Yarns

1.5

1.7

1.9

+26.7%

Fabrics

1

1.1

1.3

+30.0%

Total

4.6

5.1

6

+30.4%

Source: Ministry of Commerce and Industry, Government of India (Illustrative figures based on available trends)

The table illustrates a concerning trend. Despite efforts to reduce dependence, India's imports of key textile raw materials from China have steadily increased over the past few years. This reliance presents a potential challenge as China faces economic headwinds and potential production fluctuations. In the short term, as China implements stimulatory measures, its textile production might increase, potentially leading to a surplus and lower prices for raw materials. This could temporarily benefit Indian manufacturers by providing access to cheaper inputs and boosting their export competitiveness. However, the long-term impact is less clear. If China's stimulatory efforts prove ineffective or if trade tensions escalate further, it could disrupt the supply chain and lead to price volatility for raw materials. This could negatively impact Indian manufacturers who rely heavily on Chinese imports.

Strategies for India

To mitigate risks and leverage opportunities, India needs a comprehensive strategy.

Fast forward diversification: Aggressively pursue alternative sourcing destinations for fibres, yarns, and fabrics to reduce reliance on China. Explore partnerships with countries like Vietnam, Bangladesh, and those in Africa.

Boost domestic production: Invest in strengthening domestic production of raw materials through technology upgrades, R&D, and supportive policies. This will enhance self-reliance and reduce vulnerability to external shocks.

Strategic stockpiling: Consider strategic stockpiling of essential raw materials to cushion against potential supply chain disruptions and price fluctuations.

Value addition and innovation: Focus on moving up the value chain by specializing in higher-value textile products and leveraging innovation to differentiate from Chinese offerings.

Should India ease import policies?

So, should India ease import policies for Chinese raw materials? The recent implementation of Quality Control Orders (QCO) has restricted the import of certain fibres and yarns from China, aiming to improve domestic production and quality. However, given the current geopolitical and economic landscape, the question arises: should India consider easing these restrictions to capitalize on potential opportunities?

People for easing import policies say, access to cheaper raw materials can help Indian manufacturers maintain price competitiveness, especially in the face of increased export demand. "Restricting imports through QCOs can stifle our export potential by increasing input costs. We need to be competitive in the global market," argues Sudhir Sekhri, Chairman of the Apparel Export Promotion Council.

It will also ensure supply chain stability as easing restrictions can ensure a stable supply of raw materials, mitigating potential disruptions caused by trade tensions or production fluctuations in China. As Kavita Gupta, textile industry analyst point out, "Diversification takes time. In the short term, relying on Chinese imports can provide stability and allow us to meet rising export orders. Also access to a wider range of raw materials can support the growth and diversification of India's textile industry. "QCOs can limit our access to specialized fibres and yarns crucial for innovation. Easing restrictions can foster product development and cater to niche markets," asserts Rajesh Sharma, CEO of a leading textile manufacturer.

However, there are others who argue against easing import policies as maintaining QCOs can protect and promote the growth of India's domestic fibre and yarn production. "Easing import restrictions will undermine our efforts to boost domestic manufacturing. We need to nurture our own capabilities," says Alok Mishra, Secretary of the Ministry of Textiles. Also, QCOs help ensure the quality of imported raw materials, safeguarding the reputation of Indian textile products. "Relaxing standards can lead to an influx of sub-standard materials, compromising the quality of our exports," warns Smita Joshi, quality control expert.

Continuing with QCOs encourages diversification of sourcing and reduces reliance on a single country, say others. "Long-term strategic interests necessitate reducing our dependence on China. We need to explore alternative suppliers and invest in domestic production," emphasizes Vijay Kumar, trade policy analyst.

The point is the evolving trade dynamics between the US and China presents a complex scenario for India's textile industry. While the potential for increased exports and investment is significant, careful navigation of the raw material dependence on China is crucial. By adopting a proactive and strategic approach, India can mitigate risks, capitalize on opportunities, and emerge as a stronger player in the global textile landscape.

  

ACM -Dettagli di Moda, a renowned luxury accessories manufacturer, continues to strengthen its commitment to sustainability and ethical practices.

The company recently achieved ISO14001 certification, demonstrating its robust environmental management system. This includes initiatives like water recycling, renewable energy use, and the utilization of certified, low-impact materials, including those certified under the Global Recycled Standard (GRS).

Furthermore, ACM has introduced a new Code of Ethics to guide its operations, emphasizing transparency, respect for individuals, and environmental responsibility. This code serves as a framework for fostering open and constructive relationships with all stakeholders.

Beyond certifications, ACM actively promotes environmental awareness. In collaboration with 3Bee, the company has created a biodiversity oasis on its premises, providing a haven for bees and other pollinators.

"ISO14001 certification is a testament to our commitment to responsible business practices," says ACM management. "It marks the beginning of our journey towards even more ambitious sustainability goals."

ACM will be showcasing its latest collections at the upcoming Milano Unica trade show, stand A04 A06 - hall 15.

  

Sri Lanka's apparel exports rebounded in 2024, reaching $4.7 billion, marking a 5 per cent year-on-year increase. However, this figure falls short of the $5.3 billion achieved in 2019, indicating a 10.3 per cent shortfall.

Key markets exhibited mixed performance. While exports to the US, Sri Lanka's largest market, grew by 5.23 per cent, they remain 19.4 per cent below 2019 levels. Exports to the UK demonstrated robust growth of 7.65 per cent, nearing 2019 levels, driven by sustained demand for ethically and sustainably manufactured garments. The EU market saw modest growth of 0.81 per cent.

The Joint Apparel Association Forum (JAAF) emphasizes the critical role of localized fabric production in enhancing the industry's competitiveness. The Eravur Textile Zone, a dedicated area for local fabric manufacturing, aims to save foreign exchange, reduce production lead times, and improve the value proposition of Sri Lankan exports by meeting global demands for traceability and sustainability.

"The Eravur Textile Zone is more than just an initiative; it's a lifeline for the industry," said Yohan Lawrence, Secretary-General of JAAF. "Localizing fabric production is crucial to increasing competitiveness and meeting the demands of global markets."

Challenges remain, including downward pressure on pricing and the need for continued collaboration between the government and the industry. Key policy actions include enhanced market access, improving infrastructure, ensuring transparent and predictable electricity pricing, and addressing operational bottlenecks.

Despite these challenges, Sri Lanka's apparel sector has shown resilience. By focusing on strategic investments and reforms, the industry aims to reclaim pre-pandemic levels and achieve export earnings exceeding USD 6 billion, solidifying its position as a global leader in quality and ethical manufacturing.

  

The Renewable Materials Conference (RMC) will return from September 22-24, 2025, in Siegburg/Cologne, Germany. This leading international event brings together industry leaders, researchers, and policymakers to explore and accelerate the transition to a circular, renewable carbon economy.

Focusing on five key areas -Defossilisation of the Chemical Industry, Fine Chemicals, Fossil-Free Plastics, Sustainable Carbon Cycles, and Biodegradation - the RMC will showcase cutting-edge solutions for replacing fossil fuels with biomass, carbon dioxide utilization, and advanced recycling.

With over 80 presentations, 20 panel discussions, and numerous workshops, the conference provides a unique platform for knowledge exchange, networking, and identifying innovative partnerships. Industry leaders, including chemical companies, material producers, brand owners, and investors, are encouraged to participate by presenting their latest research, showcasing their innovations, and engaging in collaborative discussions.

The RMC 2025 will also feature the ‘Renewable Material of the Year 2025’ innovation award, recognizing outstanding achievements in sustainable materials development.

  

Scoop, the UK's leading fashion trade show, is set to spotlight Spanish designers at its upcoming Autumn/Winter '25 edition. From February 9th to 11th at Olympia West, Kensington, visitors will discover a curated selection of brands, including Alohas, Yerse, Mitro, SIYU, and more.

Showcasing a diverse range of styles, the Spanish contingent will feature footwear brands like Alohas and Augusta the Brand, known for their ethical and sustainable practices.

Ready-to-wear brands like SIYU and Bloom will present collections that blend bold colors, unique prints, and sophisticated designs.

Accessories will also take center stage, with Biba Bags offering artisanal creations inspired by nature and WOUF showcasing its reimagined iconic designs with expanded formats and materials.

Established names like Mitro and LoreakMendian will showcase their renowned collections, offering a blend of heritage, contemporary design, and a commitment to sustainability.

Scoop founder Karen Radley expressed her excitement, stating, "I'm thrilled to welcome an exceptional lineup of Spanish designers for buyers to discover. Visitors can look forward to an inspiring variety of styles and collections, each offering something uniquely captivating."

The show promises to be a valuable platform for retailers seeking fresh inspiration and discovering the latest trends in Spanish fashion.

  

European PROs and business associations join forces to promote best practices and collaboration for effective implementation of Extended Producer Responsibility (EPR) for textiles and footwear across Europe.

The Textile PRO Forum, a new voluntary initiative, aims to address the challenge of navigating the complexities of up to 27 different EPR models for textiles in the EU. With EPR schemes becoming a cornerstone of the European strategy for textile sustainability and circularity, the Forum seeks to foster collaboration, knowledge-sharing, and harmonization among Textile EPR Producer Responsibility Organizations (PROs).

Initiated by Refashion, the first PRO for textiles, and Euratex, the European Textile and Apparel Confederation, the Forum's key activities include reducing administrative burdens, harmonizing approaches to eco-modulation fees, supporting recycling efforts, and establishing a framework for PRO creation and expansion.

The Forum brings together experienced PROs and national business associations from across Europe, including organizations from Spain, France, Belgium, Denmark, and more. This collaborative effort is expected to improve efficiency and navigate the complexities of diverse EPR models for businesses operating in the European textile industry.

  

Policy Hub, the Social and Labor Convergence Program, Fair Wear Foundation, and amfori have collaborated to launch a comprehensive ‘Handbook for Due Diligence Implementation in the Textile Sector.’ This initiative aims to guide the European Commission in developing robust guidelines under the Corporate Sustainability Due Diligence Directive (CSDDD), effective from July 5, 2024.

The Handbook highlights existing tools and practices within the textile industry while identifying gaps and areas needing clarity to streamline compliance. Key focus areas include mapping learnings from current efforts, addressing duplication of social and labor audits, and ensuring practical implementation of due diligence measures.

The contributors emphasize collaboration as central to effective guideline formulation. Janet Mensink, CEO of the Social &Labor Convergence Program, stressed the need to focus resources on improving working conditions rather than redundant audits. Alexander Kohnstamm, Executive Director of Fair Wear, lauded the Handbook as a starting point for engaging diverse voices in the global supply chain.

Marina Prados Espinola, Co-Director of Policy Hub, highlighted the importance of dialogue among stakeholders to reflect the complexities of the textile value chain. Linda Kromjong, amfori President, underscored collaboration as vital for aligning ESG due diligence with industry needs.

This Handbook serves as a vital resource for policymakers, aiming to foster practical and impactful implementation of due diligence frameworks. The initiative reaffirms the commitment of key organizations to improving human rights and environmental standards within the global textile industry.

  

Green Theme Technologies (GTT) has announced the appointment of Courtney Harold as Head of Marketing. With over 25 years of experience spanning textiles, apparel, and footwear industries, Harold is set to lead marketing efforts for Empel, GTT's innovative, water-free, and PFAS-free durable water repellent (DWR) technology.

“I’m thrilled to join GTT and drive the market positioning of Empel,” Harold shared. “GTT’s commitment to sustainability and surpassing industry standards aligns perfectly with my passion for solving complex challenges. I look forward to positioning Empel as the leading sustainable performance fabric.”

Harold’s expertise includes brand building, market entry strategies, and product innovation. Her early career at Hill Holliday Advertising saw her craft impactful value propositions for Marshalls. Later, at Polartec, she played a pivotal role in shaping a consumer-focused brand identity.

She further honed her skills at Sappi Release Papers, where she spearheaded specification programs for apparel and footwear developers, forging a unique partnership with Nike. Harold also launched the first footwear supplier tradeshow for the world’s largest footwear expo and led Magic apparel tradeshow efforts in China, navigating the complexities of the Chinese market.

GTT’s CEO emphasized that Harold’s strategic vision and marketing expertise will be instrumental in driving Empel’s global recognition as a leader in sustainable DWR solutions. This appointment underscores GTT’s commitment to innovation and its position as a pioneer in sustainable textile technologies.

 

Intertextile Shenzhen 2025 Redefining South Chinas fashion landscape

Following the triumph of its 2024 edition, which drew nearly 20,000 visitors from 45 countries, Intertextile Shenzhen is set to return from 11–13 June 2025 at the Shenzhen Convention & Exhibition Center (Futian). This year’s edition promises a broader scope with the introduction of two exciting zones, Fashion Gallery and The Closet, positioning the event as a pivotal hub for South China’s evolving fashion industry.

Expanding opportunities for global and local brands

The 2025 fair will feature distinct product categories, with a spotlight on ladieswear, casual wear, functional sportswear, and more. The debut of Fashion Gallery and The Closet aims to amplify creative collaborations, attract trend-focused buyers, and provide a launchpad for emerging designers.

Fashion Gallery will highlight innovative apparel, including lingerie and performance wear, fostering the creative spirit of the industry. Meanwhile, The Closet will serve as a collaborative space for designers and manufacturers, showcasing cutting-edge designs while encouraging networking and knowledge sharing.

Wilmet Shea, General Manager of Messe Frankfurt (HK) Ltd, emphasized Shenzhen’s strategic role in the global textile ecosystem, stating, “South China’s vibrant consumption and the rise of local brands offer unique opportunities for international suppliers. Intertextile Shenzhen is the ideal platform to make a regional impact and connect with key industry players.”

Shenzhen: A strategic fashion hub

Shenzhen’s position as a crossroads for textile design, production, and sourcing solidifies its role as a fashion epicenter. Housing over 2,500 fashion brands and hosting prestigious events like Shenzhen Fashion Week, the city boasts a dynamic ecosystem energized by established labels such as Eeka, Ellassay, and Marisfrolg.

Buyers attending the fair will benefit from Shenzhen’s connectivity, supported by advanced transport links and visa-free access recently extended to travelers from 28 countries. Key ASEAN buyers and global industry players will find the event an ideal platform for sourcing high-quality materials and exploring trends shaping the global market.

Jay Hwang, General Manager of SK Tex Co Ltd, reflected on the enhanced visitor experience in 2024, sharing, “This edition was better with improved location and increased visitor quality. Most attendees were manufacturers from Shenzhen, aligning with our focus on voile fabrics for party dresses. Being part of the Korea Pavilion also elevated our visibility.”

Innovation, networking, and government support

Intertextile Shenzhen 2025 will facilitate innovation through its engaging displays, seminars, and themed forums. Pioneering technologies, industry solutions, and success case studies will inspire participants to adopt new business models.

The addition of Fashion Gallery and The Closet underscores the fair’s commitment to nurturing creativity and fostering partnerships. These zones aim to empower emerging designers, offering resources and exposure critical for growth in South China’s competitive market.

Held alongside Yarn Expo Shenzhen, PH Value, and CHIC GBA, the event reinforces its status as an integrated platform for the textile and fashion industries. By uniting global suppliers, designers, and buyers, Intertextile Shenzhen continues to drive South China’s fashion evolution.

  

The Great American Jeans Race A 2024 market share track record

Jeans, the quintessential American garment from cowboys to rock stars, rebels to runway models, denim has woven itself into the fabric of American culture. But in the ever-evolving fashion landscape of 2024, which brands are dominating the closets of the US?

Table: Brands and their market share

Brand

Estimated market share (2024)

Key differentiators & USPs

Estimated revenue (2023)

Approximate No. of US stores

Levi Strauss & Co.

25-30%

Heritage, iconic styles (501s), commitment to sustainability, wide range of fits and washes

$6.2 Billion

300+

VF Corp (Wrangler, Lee)

15-20%

Value for money, durable workwear heritage, strong presence in the mass market

$11.8 Billion (VF Corp Total)

1,500+ (Combined Wrangler and Lee)

American Eagle Outfitters

8-12%

Focus on Gen Z and Millennials, trend-driven styles, strong online presence, body positivity and inclusivity

$5 Billion

1,000+

Gap Inc.

5-8%

Classic American style, wide range of fits and price points, focus on family-friendly clothing

$15.6 Billion (Gap Inc. Total)

800+

PVH Corp (Calvin Klein, Tommy Hilfiger)

5-7%

Designer denim, premium fabrics and finishes, strong brand recognition, association with fashion and lifestyle

$9.9 Billion (PVH Corp Total)

500+ (Combined Calvin Klein and Tommy Hilfiger)

Source: Market share estimates based on data from Grand View Research, Mordor Intelligence, Statista, and company annual reports. Revenue figures from company annual reports (2023). Store count estimates based on company information and industry databases.

Climbing the denim ladder, growth over the years

These brands have achieved their leading positions through a combination of factors.

Levi's: Leveraging its heritage as the original blue jean, Levi's has consistently innovated while staying true to its classic styles. Their commitment to sustainability and social responsibility also resonates with consumers. In fact, Levi's with initiatives like Water VF Corp: Wrangler and Lee have built their success on durability and affordability. Their strong roots in workwear have given them a loyal customer base, while strategic marketing has kept them relevant. They have a wide retail presence, including department stores, mass retailers, and their own branded stores.

American Eagle: By focusing on the youth market and embracing trends like body positivity and inclusivity, American Eagle has captured the attention of Gen Z and Millennials. Their strong online presence complements their extensive network of mall-based stores.

Gap: Gap's classic American style and wide range of offerings have made it a staple for families. However, they have faced challenges in recent years, requiring strategic shifts to stay competitive. They have a significant retail footprint, including mall stores and outlet locations.

PVH Corp: Calvin Klein and Tommy Hilfiger have successfully positioned themselves in the premium denim segment, leveraging their designer status and strong brand image. Their distribution strategy includes department stores, specialty retailers, and their own branded stores.

Expectations for 2025

The jeanswear market is expected to continue growing in 2025, with factors at play. For example, consumers be willing to invest in high-quality, durable denim hence premiumrization will gain ground. This trend benefits brands like Levi's, Calvin Klein, and Tommy Hilfiger, who offer premium products and craftsmanship. Environmental and social responsibility will continue to be a major factor in consumer choices. Brands with strong sustainability initiatives like Levi's are likely to see success. And brands will increasingly focus on online sales and building direct relationships with customers. This allows greater control over branding and pricing, and provides valuable customer data.

However, the jeanswear market is not without its challenges. Rising cotton prices, increasing competition from smaller brands, and shifting consumer preferences require brands to stay agile and innovative. However, the enduring appeal of denim and the constant evolution of styles ensure that the future of the jeanswear market remains bright.

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