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Policy Hub, the Social and Labor Convergence Program, Fair Wear Foundation, and amfori have collaborated to launch a comprehensive ‘Handbook for Due Diligence Implementation in the Textile Sector.’ This initiative aims to guide the European Commission in developing robust guidelines under the Corporate Sustainability Due Diligence Directive (CSDDD), effective from July 5, 2024.
The Handbook highlights existing tools and practices within the textile industry while identifying gaps and areas needing clarity to streamline compliance. Key focus areas include mapping learnings from current efforts, addressing duplication of social and labor audits, and ensuring practical implementation of due diligence measures.
The contributors emphasize collaboration as central to effective guideline formulation. Janet Mensink, CEO of the Social &Labor Convergence Program, stressed the need to focus resources on improving working conditions rather than redundant audits. Alexander Kohnstamm, Executive Director of Fair Wear, lauded the Handbook as a starting point for engaging diverse voices in the global supply chain.
Marina Prados Espinola, Co-Director of Policy Hub, highlighted the importance of dialogue among stakeholders to reflect the complexities of the textile value chain. Linda Kromjong, amfori President, underscored collaboration as vital for aligning ESG due diligence with industry needs.
This Handbook serves as a vital resource for policymakers, aiming to foster practical and impactful implementation of due diligence frameworks. The initiative reaffirms the commitment of key organizations to improving human rights and environmental standards within the global textile industry.
Green Theme Technologies (GTT) has announced the appointment of Courtney Harold as Head of Marketing. With over 25 years of experience spanning textiles, apparel, and footwear industries, Harold is set to lead marketing efforts for Empel, GTT's innovative, water-free, and PFAS-free durable water repellent (DWR) technology.
“I’m thrilled to join GTT and drive the market positioning of Empel,” Harold shared. “GTT’s commitment to sustainability and surpassing industry standards aligns perfectly with my passion for solving complex challenges. I look forward to positioning Empel as the leading sustainable performance fabric.”
Harold’s expertise includes brand building, market entry strategies, and product innovation. Her early career at Hill Holliday Advertising saw her craft impactful value propositions for Marshalls. Later, at Polartec, she played a pivotal role in shaping a consumer-focused brand identity.
She further honed her skills at Sappi Release Papers, where she spearheaded specification programs for apparel and footwear developers, forging a unique partnership with Nike. Harold also launched the first footwear supplier tradeshow for the world’s largest footwear expo and led Magic apparel tradeshow efforts in China, navigating the complexities of the Chinese market.
GTT’s CEO emphasized that Harold’s strategic vision and marketing expertise will be instrumental in driving Empel’s global recognition as a leader in sustainable DWR solutions. This appointment underscores GTT’s commitment to innovation and its position as a pioneer in sustainable textile technologies.
Following the triumph of its 2024 edition, which drew nearly 20,000 visitors from 45 countries, Intertextile Shenzhen is set to return from 11–13 June 2025 at the Shenzhen Convention & Exhibition Center (Futian). This year’s edition promises a broader scope with the introduction of two exciting zones, Fashion Gallery and The Closet, positioning the event as a pivotal hub for South China’s evolving fashion industry.
Expanding opportunities for global and local brands
The 2025 fair will feature distinct product categories, with a spotlight on ladieswear, casual wear, functional sportswear, and more. The debut of Fashion Gallery and The Closet aims to amplify creative collaborations, attract trend-focused buyers, and provide a launchpad for emerging designers.
Fashion Gallery will highlight innovative apparel, including lingerie and performance wear, fostering the creative spirit of the industry. Meanwhile, The Closet will serve as a collaborative space for designers and manufacturers, showcasing cutting-edge designs while encouraging networking and knowledge sharing.
Wilmet Shea, General Manager of Messe Frankfurt (HK) Ltd, emphasized Shenzhen’s strategic role in the global textile ecosystem, stating, “South China’s vibrant consumption and the rise of local brands offer unique opportunities for international suppliers. Intertextile Shenzhen is the ideal platform to make a regional impact and connect with key industry players.”
Shenzhen: A strategic fashion hub
Shenzhen’s position as a crossroads for textile design, production, and sourcing solidifies its role as a fashion epicenter. Housing over 2,500 fashion brands and hosting prestigious events like Shenzhen Fashion Week, the city boasts a dynamic ecosystem energized by established labels such as Eeka, Ellassay, and Marisfrolg.
Buyers attending the fair will benefit from Shenzhen’s connectivity, supported by advanced transport links and visa-free access recently extended to travelers from 28 countries. Key ASEAN buyers and global industry players will find the event an ideal platform for sourcing high-quality materials and exploring trends shaping the global market.
Jay Hwang, General Manager of SK Tex Co Ltd, reflected on the enhanced visitor experience in 2024, sharing, “This edition was better with improved location and increased visitor quality. Most attendees were manufacturers from Shenzhen, aligning with our focus on voile fabrics for party dresses. Being part of the Korea Pavilion also elevated our visibility.”
Innovation, networking, and government support
Intertextile Shenzhen 2025 will facilitate innovation through its engaging displays, seminars, and themed forums. Pioneering technologies, industry solutions, and success case studies will inspire participants to adopt new business models.
The addition of Fashion Gallery and The Closet underscores the fair’s commitment to nurturing creativity and fostering partnerships. These zones aim to empower emerging designers, offering resources and exposure critical for growth in South China’s competitive market.
Held alongside Yarn Expo Shenzhen, PH Value, and CHIC GBA, the event reinforces its status as an integrated platform for the textile and fashion industries. By uniting global suppliers, designers, and buyers, Intertextile Shenzhen continues to drive South China’s fashion evolution.
Jeans, the quintessential American garment from cowboys to rock stars, rebels to runway models, denim has woven itself into the fabric of American culture. But in the ever-evolving fashion landscape of 2024, which brands are dominating the closets of the US?
Table: Brands and their market share
|
Brand |
Estimated market share (2024) |
Key differentiators & USPs |
Estimated revenue (2023) |
Approximate No. of US stores |
|
Levi Strauss & Co. |
25-30% |
Heritage, iconic styles (501s), commitment to sustainability, wide range of fits and washes |
$6.2 Billion |
300+ |
|
VF Corp (Wrangler, Lee) |
15-20% |
Value for money, durable workwear heritage, strong presence in the mass market |
$11.8 Billion (VF Corp Total) |
1,500+ (Combined Wrangler and Lee) |
|
American Eagle Outfitters |
8-12% |
Focus on Gen Z and Millennials, trend-driven styles, strong online presence, body positivity and inclusivity |
$5 Billion |
1,000+ |
|
Gap Inc. |
5-8% |
Classic American style, wide range of fits and price points, focus on family-friendly clothing |
$15.6 Billion (Gap Inc. Total) |
800+ |
|
PVH Corp (Calvin Klein, Tommy Hilfiger) |
5-7% |
Designer denim, premium fabrics and finishes, strong brand recognition, association with fashion and lifestyle |
$9.9 Billion (PVH Corp Total) |
500+ (Combined Calvin Klein and Tommy Hilfiger) |
Source: Market share estimates based on data from Grand View Research, Mordor Intelligence, Statista, and company annual reports. Revenue figures from company annual reports (2023). Store count estimates based on company information and industry databases.
Climbing the denim ladder, growth over the years
These brands have achieved their leading positions through a combination of factors.
Levi's: Leveraging its heritage as the original blue jean, Levi's has consistently innovated while staying true to its classic styles. Their commitment to sustainability and social responsibility also resonates with consumers. In fact, Levi's with initiatives like Water VF Corp: Wrangler and Lee have built their success on durability and affordability. Their strong roots in workwear have given them a loyal customer base, while strategic marketing has kept them relevant. They have a wide retail presence, including department stores, mass retailers, and their own branded stores.
American Eagle: By focusing on the youth market and embracing trends like body positivity and inclusivity, American Eagle has captured the attention of Gen Z and Millennials. Their strong online presence complements their extensive network of mall-based stores.
Gap: Gap's classic American style and wide range of offerings have made it a staple for families. However, they have faced challenges in recent years, requiring strategic shifts to stay competitive. They have a significant retail footprint, including mall stores and outlet locations.
PVH Corp: Calvin Klein and Tommy Hilfiger have successfully positioned themselves in the premium denim segment, leveraging their designer status and strong brand image. Their distribution strategy includes department stores, specialty retailers, and their own branded stores.
Expectations for 2025
The jeanswear market is expected to continue growing in 2025, with factors at play. For example, consumers be willing to invest in high-quality, durable denim hence premiumrization will gain ground. This trend benefits brands like Levi's, Calvin Klein, and Tommy Hilfiger, who offer premium products and craftsmanship. Environmental and social responsibility will continue to be a major factor in consumer choices. Brands with strong sustainability initiatives like Levi's are likely to see success. And brands will increasingly focus on online sales and building direct relationships with customers. This allows greater control over branding and pricing, and provides valuable customer data.
However, the jeanswear market is not without its challenges. Rising cotton prices, increasing competition from smaller brands, and shifting consumer preferences require brands to stay agile and innovative. However, the enduring appeal of denim and the constant evolution of styles ensure that the future of the jeanswear market remains bright.
The fate of Guanyun County, a rural community that has become a hub for China's online lingerie trade, hangs in the balance as the US considers eliminating a key tariff exemption. Dubbed ‘Victoria's Secret Town’, Guanyun's rapid growth has been due to the de minimis rule, which allows packages valued under $800 to enter the US duty-free. This rule has been a boon for Chinese e-commerce giants like Shein and Temu, which rely heavily on small-scale producers like Midnight Charm Garment Co.
Midnight Charm, specializing in what owner Lei Congrui calls ‘erotic clothing’, exemplifies the reliance on this trade. With 70 per cent of his revenue derived from US sales, Lei, like many others in Guanyun, faces an uncertain future. De minimis curbs and higher tariffs will have a relatively large impact on us, Congrui admits.
Impact of potential de minimis changes
The potential impact of the US eliminating the de minimis rule extends far beyond Guanyun. Nomura, a financial services group, estimates the following consequences.
Table: De minimis impact
|
Metric |
Impact |
|
China's Exports Benefiting from De Minimis in 2024 |
$240 billion |
|
Percentage of China's Overseas Sales Impacted |
7% |
|
Contribution to China's GDP |
1.30% |
|
Reduction in Export Growth if US Eliminates Rule |
1.3 percentage points |
|
Reduction in GDP Growth if US Eliminates Rule |
0.2 percentage points |
Source: Nomura
These figures paint a stark picture for China's export-oriented economy, particularly for industries like apparel that rely heavily on the de minimis exemption. Nomura's chief China economist, Ting Lu, warns that ‘blue-collar workers from those small factories of unbranded, low value-added and labour-intensive products will be most affected.
Government investment and overcapacity concerns
Guanyun's local government has invested heavily in the lingerie industry, pouring 22 billion yuan ($3 billion) into the WeMet Industrial Park, also known as ‘Victoria's Secret Town’. However, the park remains largely vacant, raising concerns about overinvestment and the potential for a sharp downturn. This situation mirrors a broader trend in China, where local governments often invest heavily in specific industries, leading to excess manufacturing capacity and deflationary pressures. Majid Ghorbani, an associate professor at the China Europe International Business School, criticizes this approach, stating that local governments "only think as far as they can see," ignoring the potential consequences for the national economy.
Therefore, as the US and other countries consider changes to the de minimis rule, businesses in Guanyun and across China are exploring alternative strategies. Some are considering establishing warehouses in the US to bypass the tariffs, while others are looking to diversify into new markets.
The future of Guanyun's ‘erotic clothing’ industry, and China's broader e-commerce sector, hinges on the decisions made in Washington and other global capitals. The stakes are high, with millions of jobs and billions of dollars in trade hanging in the balance.
This year, Paris Fashion Week opened with a menswear show by Pharrell Williams that consolidated Louis Vuitton’s position as the leading name in luxury streetwear.
Created in collaboration with Japanese streetwear designer Nigo, the collection was inspired by the past as it gazed into the future through the telescope of history. The collection revisited early 2000s aesthetics with wide-leg and low-rise silhouettes in both denim and tailored pieces. The designers reimagined the streetwear staple Camo patterns in abstract and pixelated designs.
The collection featured monograms on everything, from beanies to boots. Having first popularized bold, logo-heavy designs with his brand A Bathing Ape (BAPE) in 1993, Nigo revisited this concept by featuring cut-out facial silhouettes of himself and Williams on bags. He also paid homage to Louis Vuitton’s Parisian heritage with bags emblazoned with ‘Pont Neuf’ and ‘Since 1854.’
Blending streetwear with dandyism, the fashion show featured everything from varsity jackets to sharply tailored suits. Models walked the mauve-colored runway set in a massive mirrored structure built in front of the Louvre pyramid. They were surrounded by 24 vitrines displaying a mix of eclectic items, including sneakers, T-shirts, a boombox, and a gold Blackberry phone.
Some pieces were inspired by Williams and Nigo’s personal collections, while others came from previous Louis Vuitton shows, creating a visual archive of their influences and inspiration for this collaboration.
Nigo previously worked with Louis Vuitton under the late Virgil Abloh, who served as the brand’s menswear artistic director. In 2020, they collaborated on a capsule collection, with Abloh praising Nigo as an ‘engineer’ who bridged the gap between ‘high and low’ fashion. The partnership between the two reflects LVMH’s dedication to the burgeoning streetwear market, projected to reach $637 billion by 2032.
With production continuing to outpace demand, the global cotton industry is set to encounter significant challenges in 2025. This year, growth will align with last year’s pace, project economists. Oil prices continue to trend lower, and cotton futures indicate price stability for the year ahead, as per the Centre for Advanced Studies on Applied Economics (CEPEA).
Brazil emerged as the world’s top cotton exporter in 2023-24, with shipments reaching 2.77 million tons to surpass the United States, which exported 2.37 million tons. China played a critical role in Brazil’s record exports, importing 924.7 thousand tons of cotton.
In 2024-25, cotton prices in Brazil are expected to decline due to high ending stocks, limited global demand, and slow global economic growth. However, the depreciation of the Brazilian real against the US dollar could improve export competitiveness, potentially helping to stabilize prices.
As per Conab projections, Brazil’s area under cotton cultivation is expected to rise by 3 per cent to 2 million hectare in 2024/25. The country’s cotton productivity is expected to decrease by 3.1 per cent to 1,845 kg per hectare. Its total cotton production for the 2024/25 season is forecasted to decline by 0.2 per cent to 3.695 million tons.
On the global front, cotton supply in 2024-25 is forecasted to rise by 3.9 per cent, as per USDA data. World cotton consumption is expected to rise by 1.3 per cent during the same period, totaling 25.211 million tons.
The Bangladesh Knitwear Manufacturers and Exporters Association (BKMEA) has urged the National Board of Revenue (NBR) to allow the import of raw materials without letters of credit (LCs) or on a free-of-cost (FOC) basis. Signed by Mohammad Hatem, Chairman, BKMEA, the letter was recently submitted to the NBR chairman.
In the letter, BKMEA emphasized that export-oriented non-bonded ready-made garment (RMG) companies typically procure yarn, fabric, and accessories locally through back-to-back LCs. Meanwhile, bonded factories source raw materials both locally and internationally using the same mechanism.
BKMEA highlighted that under current policies by Bangladesh Bank, there has been a gradual increase in raw materials imported from abroad rather than procured domestically. As part of this trend, the share of FOC imports has also risen alongside back-to-back LCs. For such exports, the added value remains at 100 per cent, ensuring that all foreign exchange earnings benefit the country.
The letter noted that this system benefits exporters, eliminating the need for bank limits or security mortgages to process back-to-back LCs. The buyers bear the cost of raw materials, shielding exporters from potential risks such as order cancellations, air shipment charges, or discounts.
However, BKMEA argued that regulations from the Ministry of Commerce and the NBR have created unnecessary barriers, negatively impacting the export sector and causing losses for exporters.
The letter further cited two restrictive Statutory Regulatory Orders (SROs). One allows companies to import raw materials and accessories without LCs for only six months under buyer agreements. Another limits enterprises receiving over 80 per cent of raw materials free of charge from foreign buyers to a six-month revolving import period.
These conditions are harming export growth and causing exporters to lose foreign buyers, emphasized BKMEA. The organization urged policymakers to remove these restrictions to maintain export momentum and support the larger interests of the country’s RMG industry.
Vardhaman Textile’s consolidated net profit increased by 31.44 per cent to Rs 210.61 in Q3, FY25. The company’s revenues from operations grew by 5.81 per cent to Rs 2,465.30 during the quarter as against Q3, FY24.
Revenue from textiles rose by 5.03 per cent Y-o-Y to Rs 2,403.94 crore while revenues from the acrylic fiber division increased by 32.14 per cent to Rs 81.78 crore.
Vardhaman Textiles also registered a 28.85 per cent Y-o-Y rise in profit before tax (PBT) to Rs 272.54 crore during the quarter. The company’s expenses increased by 3.09 per cent to Rs 2,272.16 as compared with Rs 2204.08 crore in Q3 FY24.
Total yarn production by the company declined by 0.03 per cent to 65,827 metric tons in Q3 FY25 as compared with 65,849 metric tons in Q3 FY24. Total sales rose by 4.96 per cent Y-o-Y to 66,175 metric tons in Q3 FY24.
Total sales of Grey Fabric by the company contracted by 2.4 per cent to 529 metric tons in Q3 FY25 as against 542 metric tons in Q3 FY24. Its production declined by 3.33 per cent Y-o-Y to 523 metric tons in Q3 FY25.
In Q3, FY25, Vardhaman Textiles produced 0.91 per cent more or 443 metric tons of processed fabric as compared with 439 metric tons in Q3 FY24. Its total sales increased by 1.62 per cent to 439 metric tons in Q3 FY25 as against 432 metric tons in Q3 FY24.
One of the leading textile groups in India, Vardhaman Textiles operations across the yarn, fabric, sewing threads, fiber, special alloys and garment sectors.
Cone Denim has partnered with Guatemalan designer Juan Carlos Gordillo and sustainable finishing company Jeanologia to launch an innovative denim collection at Kingpins New York.
The collection showcases sustainable designs and creative expression in a range of unique denim garments, blending artisanal craftsmanship with modern technology.
It features Cone Denim’s biodegradable fabrics, made with 100 per cent cotton, recycled cotton, and Tencel. These materials provide a lightweight, fluid foundation for Gordillo’s custom designs, which are hand-painted with abstract forms to create one-of-a-kind pieces. The brand blends traditional craftsmanship with modern technology to achieve a compelling design collaboration, says Pierette Scavuzzo, Design Director, Cone Denim.
The garments were finalized by Jeanologia at its Miami hub, using laser and ozone treatments to bring Gordillo’s vision to life. Their designs feature fine, hand-drawn lines and laser-cut patterns inspired by classic whiskers in weathered denim, adding a handcrafted aesthetic to the collection.
The garments embody a narrative of ethics, artistry, and transformation, emphasizes Gordillo. Each piece tells a story of raw, evocative beauty and functional elegance with the collection reconfirming the belief that quality, ethics, and sustainability are inseparable.
Known for his expertise in sustainable denim design, Gordillo earlier showcased his collections at the Vienna Fashion Week and Berlin Fashion Week. In 2023, he launched ReNacer, a collection that incorporated upcycled denim fabrics alongside innovative materials like Black Dry Denim from Tejidos Royo. Earlier, in 2019, he collaborated with Lenzing, Tejidos Royo, Officina39, and Tonello to launch Planet Rehab, a collection highlighting the denim industry’s commitment to reducing environmental impact.
The new collection reflects the growing demand for eco-friendly fashion, blending artistry and sustainability to create versatile pieces designed for everyday life. By combining Gordillo’s craftsmanship with Cone Denim’s sustainable fabrics and Jeanologia’s advanced finishing technology, the collection sets a benchmark for ethical and innovative denim design.
