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"Whether it is Spring/Summer or Autumn/Winter, fashion changes every season and fashionistas across the globe are increasingly becoming obsessed with changing their clothes and style as per the latest offerings from the iconic fast fashion brands. With each new season, garments of the previous collection are becoming redundant thus giving a high to the fashion brands."
Whether it is Spring/Summer or Autumn/Winter, fashion changes every season and fashionistas across the globe are increasingly becoming obsessed with changing their clothes and style as per the latest offerings from the iconic fast fashion brands. With each new season, garments of the previous collection are becoming redundant thus giving a high to the fashion brands.
Today the global fashion industry is worth $1.2 trillion, and more than $250 billion of this is spent annually in the US alone. Fast fashion as a concept is actually a business model that moves designs from the runway to stores quickly to capture current trends and typically includes inexpensive, poorly constructed garments that can be ruined after a couple of trips through the washing machine.
While fast fashion marketers are minting money, the fickleness of trends and the demand for clothing is raising concern amongst brands and consumers about the environmental impact. They are willing to focus on incorporating sustainability into their business models. Brands willing to create sustainable fashion require a two pronged effort. While brands need to make products that minimize any negative impact on the environment, it also improves the working conditions for everyone involved in design and manufacturing.
Environmental hazard of fast fashion
The fashion industry is among the most polluting in the world, with a number of chemicals and water being used produce clothing. Wastewater discharged by mills each year contains harmful chemicals such as formaldehyde, chlorine and heavy metals such as lead and mercury which causes global industrial water pollution. Moreover cotton production use up a significant amount of water resources.
Another worrying aspect of fast fashion industry is the human cost it involves. Garment manufacturing is the third-largest industry in the world, producing about $700 billion annually. However the working conditions of many of the millions of workers employed in garment manufacturing are of great concern. In April 2013 more than 1,100 Bangladeshi workers were killed when the Rana Plaza garment factory collapsed. The year before, 117 people were killed when a fire swept through another factory in Bangladesh.
New sustainable fashion brands emerging globally
Amidst rising concern of for environmen, a new trend is emerging as increasing number of brands are working towards sustainable fashion. In the last few years brands which believe in sustainable fashion, have striving hard to create an antithesis of fast fashion. The Los Angeles based brand Tom Cridland is responsible for the 30 Year T-Shirt, the 30 Year Sweatshirt and the 30 Year Jacket. The founder, Tom Cridland, and its managing director, Deborah Marx strongly disapproves the tendency for once-worn clothing to be discarded. According to them concept is a fun way to promote sustainability while not preaching about environmentalism and clothing manufacturing rights. Celebrities like Leonardo DiCaprio, Rod Stewart and Ben Stiller have come forward to promote the brand.
Several fashion-forward brands are striving to promote the concept clothes can be inexpensive, ethically made and sustainable. Asos Eco Edit Online fashion retailing giant has an exclusive ‘Eco Edit' section that features a wide range of what it says are sustainable clothing, accessories and beauty items, including handcrafted jewelry to up cycled vintage pieces. Another iconic high end designer Stella McCartney is a strong believer of vegan living and the brand doesn’t use any leather or fur in its designs. Patagonia, the brand, which caters to outdoor apparel needs, has also committed to monitoring all stages of production closely to ensure that all products are produced under safe, fair, legal and humane working conditions throughout the supply chain. The quintessential brand for jeans Levi’s has created a collection called Levi's Waste Less,which features clothing made of 20 percent postconsumer waste — specifically, recycled plastic bottles. Three to eight plastics bottle are used per pair of WasteLess jeans.
Many other prominent fast fashion brands like H&M and Zara are also taking up initiatives to cover up the darker side of the fast fashion business.
South Korea’s home-grown brands have been actively seeking opportunities in foreign markets. Samsung C&T’s fashion business is working on a plan to export its women’s apparel brand Kuho and men’s apparel brand Juun. J. The company that aims to earn $90.3 million in sales from Kuho this year expects to double sales by 2020 by entering global markets such as the United States.
Juun J became the first designer in South Korea to be invited to the global men’s apparel fashion show Pitti Uomo held in Italy early this year. Korean fashion group Hyungji in September acquired De Castelbajac, the fashion label launched by French fashion designer Jean-Charles de Castelbajac, a pioneer of the avant-garde who dressed the late Pope John Paul II, Lady Gaga and Madonna. It was one of the biggest merger and acquisition deals Korea’s indigenous fashion brands had ever made since 2000.
Hyungji, well-known for its low- and mid-tier women’s apparel brands such as Crocodile Lady and Chatelaine decided to add the French fashion line-up to its business portfolio in the hope that the deal helps not only to expand its presence in the golf-wear and handbag markets but also enter the markets for home and living goods and men and children’s clothing.
"With textile and apparel export volume of close to $12 billion and a workforce of almost two million people, the Indonesian garment and textile industry has been raising the bar in global textiles market. The Indonesian government has set a target of increasing the nation’s value of textiles exports to $75 billion by 2030. With this, Indonesia’s textile and apparel products would have 5 per cent share in the global market."
With textile and apparel export volume of close to $12 billion and a workforce of almost two million people, the Indonesian garment and textile industry has been raising the bar in global textiles market. The Indonesian government has set a target of increasing the nation’s value of textiles exports to $75 billion by 2030. With this, Indonesia’s textile and apparel products would have 5 per cent share in the global market.
And, there are homegrown designers who are ably pushing this growth. Michelle Tjokrosaputro, Chief Executive, Dan Liris, is the name behind global behemoths like Calvin Klein, Tommy Hilfiger and Marks & Spencer. At the recent Jakarta Fashion Week, she shared her expertise with the next generation of designers. She provides a portfolio of services such as auditing, subsidised courier services, sustainability management, quality control and specialised state-of-the-art machinery. Like her, there are other designers who are pushing the ‘Made in Indonesia’ tag.
‘China Plus One’ strategy
Recent PwC studies reveal Indonesia will become the 5th biggest economy in the world in 12 years’, moving up from 16th place and surpassing the likes of Brazil, Russia and Germany. Anne Patricia Sutanto, Chief Executive, Pan Brother Tex, one of the largest Indonesian manufacturers producing for the likes of Uniqlo, points out there are three massive factories just for the Japanese brand and ASICS shoes. Indonesian apparel manufacturing will play a huge role in the country’s future in the next 20 years. There is no doubt Indonesia with its large population will have a huge influence on both manufacturing and sourcing as well as consumers’ buying. This industry will have a multiplier effect and give a major boost to the economy provided the government is willing to see this labour-intensive industry as pillars of growth. Pan Brothers Tex also has tie-ups with Indonesian retail brands like Salt n Pepper and Zoe Black.
While China undoubtedly remains a powerhouse in the region, Indonesia is benefitting from China’s rising labour costs, prompting companies to diversify in the region by following what’s called a ‘China Plus One’ strategy. Like China, Indonesia has the advantage of a domestic supply of raw materials, an expansive labour force and a big domestic economy that is transitioning steadily from low income to middle income. Unlike China, however, it is integrated into the Association of Southeast Asian Nations (ASEAN).
Besides, manufacturing is becoming increasingly sophisticated with vertical operations in spinning, weaving, printing and garment plants, making them a one-stop destination for international clients. One such example is Java-based Sritex that makes 8 million pieces of apparel a year for bigwigs like Uniqlo, Guess and H&M.
Fast fashion driving growth
Helena Helmersson, H&M’s Global Head of Production, says the advantage of manufacturing in Indonesia is the great mix of fashion, price and sustainability. Today, biggest international buyers in Indonesia are fast fashion giants or those operating diffusion labels of designer brands. It is high-volume sportswear production that allows major multinational sportswear brands — Adidas, Mizune, Asics, New Balance, Nike, Pentland and Puma — to keep up with global demand, and expand into new countries. Because of its investments in technology, innovation and training, Indonesia is being regarded as an advanced sourcing opportunity. And where it cannot compete on price, it can on scale.
The government too has been pushing many infrastructural projects and bureaucratic slimdown in order to ease business. The industry is anticipating zero tariff (access) to the Australian market will happen next year and hopefully zero tariff or a free trade agreement with EU will be signed by end of 2018. This will help Indonesian industries grow further allowing them to compete with neighbouring Vietnam and Bangladesh. Indonesia already has free trade agreement with Japan, which has brought scores of Japanese brands to manufacture in the country.
China accounts for 43 per cent of the global cotton spinning capacity and over 54 per cent of global fiber consumption and 38.53 per cent of global textile and apparel exports. In the first seven months of 2016, China’s investments in the textile and apparel industry were up 7.29 per cent year on year. In the same period, textile enterprises' prime operating profits were up 4.54 per cent year on year.
Stricter requirements are being put on chemical safety control and carbon emission, environment-friendly technology and standards. Taxes will be levied on air pollutants, water pollutants. China remains the largest supplier of textiles and apparel to the US market, accounting for a share of 38.92 per cent in 2015, a slight improvement from 38.74 per cent in 2014. In the Japanese market too, Chinese suppliers dominate with a share of as much as 64.53 per cent in 2015, which has come down slightly from 67.39 per cent in 2014.
In the first half of 2016, water consumption of textile companies fell 2.9 per cent year on year, 1.1 percentage points higher than that of all industries. It is expected that over the next 15 years, China, Uzbekistan, Pakistan and India between themselves will have around 100 million spindles.
The US administration has informed Jordanian government that garment products from the country will now be allowed into the US markets on a larger scale than before. The US Department of Labour recently lifted restraints on the industry, the Jordan News Agency, Petra reported. The letter, received by the government late last month, said that Jordan was not listed among countries that violate international anti-human trafficking laws and allow child labour. In a separate letter, the US Department of Labour has recently lauded Jordan’s efforts to address child labour through continued field inspections, Petra reported. Credit was given to the government’s measures that included developing legislations to regulate labour and protect the rights of workers according to international rules.
The US law blacklists products of any country that uses children or forced labour. The government has taken several measures in association with the International Labour Organisation and Tamkeen Organisation, a local NGO and intensified inspection campaigns on violating industries to ensure their commitment to the rules, including the provision of a sound and healthy environment with appropriate wages and a set working hours. The Jordanian government is seeking alternative market for Jordanian products such as the US market which receives 21 per cent of the Jordanian exports.
A number of brands and suppliers from across the textile industry in the United Kingdom have pledged to the Responsible Wool Standard (RWS), says Textile Exchange (TE), a non-profit organization. The TE announced the release of the new RWS voluntary standard this summer.
The 15 brands that have made commitments to the Responsible Wool Standard include: H&M, Marks & Spencer, William-Sonoma, Inc., Patagonia, Eddie Bauer, REI, Eileen Fisher, Tchibo, Varner, Vaude, Coyuchi, Mountain Equipment Co-op, Deckers, Kathmandu and Knowledge Cotton Apparel. Many wool suppliers have expressed their individual commitment to the Responsible Wool Standard. They are : Rambler’s Way, Imperial Stock Ranch, New Merino Australia, Oviz 21, Chargeurs, ABMT Textiles, Lanas Trinidad and Lemprière. Several other wool suppliers have participated in global training events with a focus on setting up an RWS supply chain.
Besides, 10 additional companies have expressed support for the standard and are working toward implementation, Textile Exchange reports. These include LL Bean, Arc’teryx, Indigenous Designs, Nau, Point6 and Prana.
The RWS is an independent, voluntary standard. On farms, the certification aims to ensure that sheep are treated with respect to their five freedoms and the best practices in the management and protection of the land are adhered to. Through the processing stages, certification ensures that wool from certified farms is properly identified and tracked.
BRICS countries (Brazil, Russia, India, China, South Africa) are having a trade fair in New Delhi, October 12 to 14, 2016. This is their first such trade fair. There is a strong feeling that measures need to be taken to deepen intra-BRICS economic engagement, trade and investment ties. India is the chair for 2016 BRICS group of emerging economies.
The trade fair will showcase about 20 key sectors. These include aerospace, agro-processing, auto and auto components, chemicals, green energy and renewables, healthcare and pharmaceuticals, railways, textiles and apparel, infrastructure, IT, engineering goods, tourism, gems and jewelry and skill development. The fair will be a platform for BRICS countries to exhibit state of the art technologies and advances made in industrial development. The fair is being staged just ahead of the BRICS political summit in Goa, October 15 to 16, 2016.
Global merchandise exports of BRICS countries have gone up from $3.2 trillion in 2012 to $3.47 trillion in 2014. Merchandise imports from the world into BRICS nations have gone up from $2.95 trillion in 2012 to $3.03 trillion in 2014. In 2012, intra-BRICS trade stood at $281.4 billion and this increased to $297 billion in 2014.
With the hatching of more than 40,000 silkworms, Kraig Biocraft Laboratories, a leading developer of spider silk based fibres, has successfully launched production at its new Indiana production facility. The company is now on schedule to produce all of the recombinant spider silk necessary to fulfill its contract with the US Government on time and in the set budget.
The company has a large inventory of silkworm eggs ready to hatch. In the coming weeks, the company plans to ramp up the hatch rate. Kraig Biocraft Laboratories’ COO Jon Rice says the first batch of 40,000 silkworms were just the beginning of the company’s aggressive plans to scale up domestic production. With this facility, the company now has the capability to rapidly respond to the numerous request that it receives for its Dragon Silk.
In months to come, the company will be increasing the throughput of new facility. Then it will prepare for an expanded US operation which will include the planting of thousands of mulberry trees in addition to its new domestic plant.
It is important to note the company received a contract worth $1 million from the US Army for the development of high performance fibres for protective apparel applications this summer. Under the fully funded base effort valued at $99,962, the company was contracted to deliver ballistic shoot packs constructed from its proprietary Dragon Silk material for performance testing. Kraig Biocraft Laboratories, a fully reporting biotechnology company is a leading developer of genetically engineered spider silk based fibre.
Three big companies namely H&M, IndustriALL and IF Metall have converted Global Framework Agreement into a permanent collaboration. All the signatories share the belief that collaboration and a well-functioning dialogue between the parties on labour market is necessary for lasting improvements for garment workers in all working conditions. These include fair living wages, also for stable production markets, and in the end; a mature textile industry. The goal of the work is improved industrial relations where the freedom of association is respected, where workers’ representatives have a voice and where trade unions can negotiate collectively.
The collaboration within the Global Framework Agreement has led to several positive results. National monitoring committees – consisting of representatives of IndustriALL’s affiliated trade unions and H&M have been set up and trained in Bangladesh, Cambodia, Indonesia, Myanmar and Turkey. The committees support employers’ and workers’ organisations to negotiate and to solve conflicts peacefully and in good faith at the factory level. Their work contributes to functioning labour markets in the countries where H&M source its products.
Thanks to the collaboration within the Global Framework Agreement, several cases have been solved for example a conflict at a textile factory in Myanmar earlier this year which started mainly due to misunderstandings and a lack of communication between management and employees. The conflict resulted in strikes and at a later stage also a dismissal of employees. However, after negations initiated and organized by IndustriALL and H&M, all employees were rehired and a union was launched that allowed the factory to take steps towards sound industrial relations and a reduced risk of future misunderstandings and conflicts.
Support to factory level unions within the supply chain of H&M has been one key objective of the GFA between IndustriALL Global Union and H&M. Moreover, during the first year of the implementation process, there have been several new factory level unions registered.
The apparel industry touches almost each and every environmental topic viz climate change, limited resources, lost biodiversity and water scarcity. And Intertextile Shanghai Apparel Fabrics has, all along, been striving to keep these issues at the forefront of people’s thinking.
Particularly in China, sustainability is gaining importance with the government announcing it will strive to promote clean industrial production, low-carbon development and energy conservation to ensure sustainable growth over the next five years. According to proposals released by the government in its 13th Five-Year Plan (2016-20), traditional manufacturing will be steered along an environmentally friendly path, a low-carbon production system will be established and businesses will be encouraged to upgrade their technology.
All this shows that sustainability has been and will continue to be one of the biggest topics in the global apparel textile industry. Continuing to cater to the industry’s ever-growing demand for sustainability products and services, the ‘All About Sustainability’ zone is returning to Intertextile Shanghai with a 10 per cent increase in scale compared to the 2015 Autumn Edition.
Recently, OEKO-TEX launched a new certification system called ‘Sustainable Textile Production (STeP). This certification system is for brands, retail companies and manufacturers within the textile chains that want to communicate their path to more sustainable production conditions to the public in a transparent and credible manner.
Throughout the three-day fair, numerous seminars and panel discussions will be held to offer an interactive platform for sustainability experts to share their unique insights. Amongst these events is a panel discussion titled ‘Holistic Sustainability Performance Measurement: The Higg Index Driving Transparency & Continuous Improvement’. The panel discussion would be held on October 11 at the Forum Space area in All About Sustainability. It will be moderated by Scott Miller, Business Development Director of SAC, and the two panellists Peter Bartsch, Lenzing AG’s Head of Global Sustainability, and Peter Yang, Sustainability Supply Chain Manager of H&M.
