Austria’s largest viscose producer, Lenzing Group has launched matte TencelTM branded lyocell fibers to increase its sustainable offerings. The new fiber type was created especially to scatter light and completely eliminate shine in denim applications, making indigo-dyed denim fabrics more flexible.
Tricia Carey, Director-Global Business Development Denim and Americas, Lenzing AG’ states, as a fiber manufacturing leader, they work closely with clients and mill partners to achieve their product specifications. They heeded their partners’ demands for less gleaming denim fabrics. Lenzing is at the forefront of the battle for comprehensive sustainability by employing botanic raw materials and biodegradable cellulosic fibers.
The use of matte Tencel Lyocell fibers increases denim design possibilities while reducing the environmental impact of the resultant fabric and garment, integrating function and beauty. Lenzing is fully responsible for its production processes, which include the use of fibre biometric identification to provide physical identity for every TENCEL branded fibre. The new matte TENCEL Lyocell fibers are entirely traceable thanks to this innovation, ensuring both consumers and brands that the raw materials used are supplied sustainably. In the long run, informed decision-making by all parties will contribute to the denim industry’s overall sustainability.
A remarkable performance in the Greater China market, helped Hermes International increase its third quarter revenues by 31.5 percent year-on-year.
As per a Women’s Wear Daily report, the French luxury firm’s revenues in the three months to September 30 increased by 40.3 per cent to €2.37 billion compared with 2019, considered a more reliable benchmark due to the disruption caused by the coronavirus pandemic last year.
This represented an increase of 31.2 percent versus 2020, beating a consensus of analyst estimates, which had called for a 23.8 percent rise in like-for-like sales. The better-than-expected growth rates confirmed Hermès as one of the top-performing luxury brands this year.
The group said that despite a high comparison base in the fourth quarter, it is approaching the end of the year with confidence.
However, it cautioned that that its second-half operating profit margin could be much lower than the 40.7 percent recorded in the first six months of the year, due to foreign exchange headwinds, higher employee costs and a lower contribution from leather goods, as per a Barclays report.
The group’s activity in the third quarter increased by 23.4 percent at constant exchange rates in Asia thanks to the strong performance in Greater China and other countries in the region, despite new restrictions in Australia, Thailand and Malaysia.
Its sales in the Americas jumped by 48.4 percent , while France recorded a 46.7 percent increase. Sales in the rest of Europe increased by 36.4 percent.
Luxury men’s wear brand Canali has decided to team with one of the country’s most interesting emerging brands Li Gong to develop a capsule collection: 8ON8. To be called Canali Travel With 8ON8, the capsule will be sold at the brand’s store in China and in some of its boutiques across the globe, as well as at a selection of international multibrand shops. With prices in line with Canali’s collections, the capsule will retail from $300 for basketball hats to $3,300 for coats.
As per a Women’s Wear Daily report, the capsule includes 11 styles combining Canali’s sartorial expertise with Gong’s colorful, retro futuristic aesthetic, ranging from T-shirts, puffers and hoodies to relaxed suits, silk pajamas and impeccable coats with a young, edgy vibe. The offering is completed by loafers with transparent soles, colorful sneakers, as well as baseball caps, small fabric pouches with drawstrings and printed leather luggage pieces.
Canali believes, delivering capsules with external designers enables the brand to experiment with its aesthetic and heritage with a point of view that is meaningful for specific markets. This capsule created a lot of interest in international retailers because it offers a fresh stylistic image, but at the same time is backed by the credibility of a trusted historic company, he adds. id.
The Italian men’s brand debuted in China two decades ago and operates a retail network of 21 stores in the country.
An iconic American brand, Calvin Klein has been rated as the most trustworthy fashion brand in the new Data Trust Index by Luxury Institute and DataLucent. The index measures the level of trust th
at digital consumers have in licensing their digital platform data and other personal data, to mass, premium and luxury brands in exchange for rewards and benefits.
French luxury market leader Louis Vuitton was ranked a very strong second. Banana Republic, a division of Gap Inc., was ranked third in a field of 24 well-known fashion brands (list at end of article). Six out of the top ten brands rated as being the most trustworthy with data were luxury brands. (In a similar study by the Luxury Institute and DataLucent, Macy’s topped a list of 12 large, multi-brand retailers in data trustworthiness.)
The survey was based on a nationally representative sample of 1,008 consumers ages 18-49, with a minimum income of $75,000 (total sample average income of $200,000), with 54 per cent male and 48 per cent female participation.
Around 83 per cent of all responders, including 89 per cent male and 78 per cent female said, they are willing to license their digital platform data, under their control, to brands they trust to use to serve their needs, and the needs of other consumers, in a personalized way.
The government aims to achieve $100 billion worth of textiles and garment exports over the next five years. It has urged the industry to take advantage of a global market shift where China is pruning its market share in the labor-intensive segment.
In FY21, India’s textiles and allied product exports declined by 10 per cent to $30.4 billion due to the Covid crisis. In the first five months of this fiscal, exports jumped by 87 per cent on year to $16.6 billion, aided by strong economic recovery in key markets such as the US and the EU. Still, the target remains much too ambitious.
Earlier this month, the Cabinet approved a scheme to incentivize investments in setting up mega textile parks to build scale in the fragmented sector. It followed a Rs 10,683-crore production-linked incentive scheme for man-made fiber products and technical textiles. Export tax refund schemes like the RoDTEP and RoSCTL have also been launched in recent years to improve the country’s export competitiveness.
Held in Paris, the fourth edition of Supima Design Lab showcased innovations in cotton besides spotlighting emerging talent from its design competition.
As per a Women’s Wear Daily report, created using Supima Cotton, the designs were neatly arrayed in the gilded salons of the Hôtel de La Salle in the tony 7th arrondissement
In the adjoining room, Charles de Vilmorin took his position as one of this year’s leading designers — alongside Nix Lecourt Mansion, Mira Mikati, Tom Van Der Borght, Pierre Kaczmarek for his Georges Wendell label and Jordanluca’s Jordan Bowen and Luca Marchetto .
Marc Lewkowitz, President and CEO, Supima Cotton, describes the exhibition as an opportunity to visualize the potential of a material that can be traced down to the farm level — a sophisticated but costly process used by Kering — and put the finger on deeper issues like value reconsideration.
Chinese lingerie brands like Ubras, Candy La Vie and Sujiin are building their businesses in the domestic market by offering an inclusive size range.
Surpassing traditional Chinese lingerie-makers like Embry, Aimer or Cosmo Lady, these next-gen brands are ruling the estimated $64.49 billion market with their extended size offerings, product innovation and dynamic advertising.
China has always had people of diverse body sizes. As per a Women’s Wear Daily report, the country has 56 officially recognized ethnicities. There are also significant differences between northern Han and southern Han, the dominant ethnic group — which comprises women with larger busts.
According to research released from the medical journal The Lancet last November, China’s population is becoming increasingly overweight or obese. In 1985, an average 19-year-old female in China was 5 foot 2 inches tall, while males were 5 foot 5 inches. In 2019, those numbers grew to 5 foot 4 inches for women and 5 foot 8 inches for men, with the increase in men’s height clocking the largest gains in the world.
One of China’s top selling lingerie brands, Beijing-headquartered Ubras is an advocate for the one-size-fits-all bra idea in China. The brand offers a seamless collection of bras that are made from lightweight fabrics and do not have an underwire. These bras are suitable for all types of activities like sleeping, lounging, working out, traveling, being at the office, and pregnancy. The product also allies with the company’s digital-first model.
Similarly, Neiwai launched its Barely Zero collection featuring soft and highly stretchable bras that fit women up to D-plus cup. Another digital start-up Sujin offers bras that fit a DD cup and are available in all skin colors.
A startup dedicated to plus-size women, Candy La Vie is engaged in educating customers on the difference between large cup sizes and large band-size. Zhang Chengpu, Co-Founder and Creative Director, says, though the band sizes of Chinese women may be smaller, but many of them still require large cups as they have a large chest.
An influencer known for her curvy figure, Yang Tianzhen collaborated with Victoria’s Secret in May for campaign on body positivity. She also has her own plus-size clothing line, PlusMall that offers plus-size lingerie in bright colors.
Recovering from the pandemic shocks, Pakistan’s textile exports are set to grow to $22 billion in FY22. Most of this growth will be driven by the introduction of supportive policies by the government and stabilization of the industry.
As per a Global Village Space report, Pakistan’s textile industry has yielded spectacular results in recent times. Boosted by increasing investments from industrialists, the industry is set to rise by 25 per cent annually from FY2022.
However, the industry also faces certain challenges in the coming year. It is likely to be particularly troubled by the uncertainties in the cotton as well as currency markets. Also, the industry’s miniscule share of 1.7 percent in the global textile market may prove to be a cause of concern.
Another challenge the industry faces is the rise in cotton yarn prices. Globally, cotton prices have reached $1 per pound, sparking a debate over the need for a regulatory duty to be imposed on yarn exports. However, such regulatory duties can have adverse effects on the domestic market and hence, the government needs to abstain from such quotas.
The government needs to refrain from buying cotton at import substation from the local market and selling it at 10 percent below export parity price. It should also not subsidize the downstream industry as this puts farmers at a great disadvantage. A conducive environment has led to a 50 percent rise in cotton production in Pakistan this year. This is expected to surge the crop’s value to Rs 600 billion, thus giving farmers an additional benefit of Rs. 400 billion.
APTMA and all textile industries have decided to pay international parity prices to domestic farmers to help them sustain themselves. APTMA has also set up the APTMA Cotton Foundation (ACF) to improve the cotton sector’s performance. The foundation aims to promote model farming techniques by creating cotton clusters and centers of excellence.
Pakistan fully utilizes its domestic cotton supply by exporting 84 per cent of the apparels made from cotton. The country’s synthetic fiber market is also booming with demand for athletic wear rising. However, it needs to upgrade its production techniques to compete in this market. It hopes, incoming investments will help in upgrading the industry’s technology and capture a higher share in the synthetic fiber market.
The current currency pressures in the industry can be attributed to the previous lack of investments. It is threatening to slow the growth pace of the large scale manufacturing sector in the Pakistan.
The textile sector accounts for 60 per cent of Pakistan’s total exports. The sector needs consistent support and investments to achieve economic growth. It aims to boost exports by setting up 100 new textile units with an investment of $5 billion.
The industry can achieve its target of $21 billion textile exports by procuring energy at regionally competitive prices. For this, the government needs to introduce a long-term textile policy incorporating regionally competitive energy tariffs.
The government’s regionally competitive energy pricing policy has helped the industry expand its operations. However, to sustain this expansion, it needs to upgrade its current technologies.
Technology upgradation will not only help the industry diversify into other related sectors, but also enhance its position in the apparel value chain and redesign import duty suspension and refund programs for exporters. Pakistan’s textile sector can thus lead its economic growth by a consistent supply of competitive inputs and constant value addition.
Believing in the ability of brands and retailers to neutralize their carbon impact and leave a positive mark on the planet, last week, the British Retail Consortium (BRC) unveiled a series of ambitious targets for the next two decades. As per a Women’s Wear Daily report, the consortium aims to completely de-carbonize UK retail by 2040 by powering stores and warehouses with net-zero electricity by 2030.
To achieve its goal, the BRC aims to reduce carbon emissions from shops and logistics operations besides encouraging consumers to adopt a low-carbon lifestyle. The consortium’s action plan is being endorsed by around 60 British retailers including Burberry, Asos, All Saints, Marks & Spencer and Boots. Many of these fast-fashion retailers have been criticized for their wasteful practices and ignorance of workers’ well-being.
By 2040, BRC aims to enable each of its UK customers to make purchases both in-stores as well as online, says Helen Dickinson, CEO. She believes, retailers can survive the pandemic-induced economic challenges by rebuilding the industry with a greener focus. Emerging UK brands can also build their businesses around carbon neutral supply chains as consumers are more likely to shop from sustainable and ethical brands, shows a recent survey by PwC.
Sustainable knitwear company, Sheep Inchas been able to achieve a carbon negative status by making biodiversity investments. The company dedicates 5 percent of its revenues to a number of carbon-insetting initiatives in farms impacted by over-use by fashion and agriculture industries. Each of the company’s garments comes with a tag that provides a full account of the item’s carbon impact.
To achieve carbon neutrality, brands need to work with suppliers upholding similar values, says Edzardvan der Wyck, Co-Founder, Sheep, Inc. They need to adopt anew mind-set and weave it into their business’ margin structure, he adds. Sustainable label Dai, upholds the view. The specialist of wardrobe staples has been certified as a B Corporation having scored 97.4 points out of 200 available points.
Aiming for complete carbon neutrality by 2021, Dai has been offsetting carbon on 100 percent of its shipments for the past three years and aims to achieve a carbon negative status by this year-end.
The four-day Moda Spring Fair will offer retailers the most diverse fashion buying destination in the UK. To be held from February 06-09,2022 in Birmingham, the fair will showcase a comprehensive and inspiring line-up of industry leading womenswear, jewellery, accessories, footwear, and sustainable brands from the UK and around the world.
A selection of confirmed footwear brands includes Superfit, Emu Australia and Emu kids, Xti and Xti Kids, Refresh, CAT footwear, Alpe, Fly London, Keddo, Blowfish Malibu, HOGL, Carmela, Mustang, Legero, Vionic, and Naturalista. The proposition for kids is also strong with a diverse offering across the show with kid’s giftware, toys, and apparel and within the dedicated kid’s footwear section Little Soles, visitors will see brands including Start-Rite, CAT kid’s footwear, Young Soles, and Petasil.
Within womenswear, Jayley, who had their best show ever in September, return for Spring. Other brands to look out for include LA RUSH, Saloos, Outdoor Leisurewear, Gill International, Jessica Graff, Sunco, Paradiso Couture, Beau Moda, Vijay Fashion, Goose Island, Perfection Clothing, Evylaure (accessories), Scream Pretty (jewellery), and Alice Collins. Louise Collins from Alice Collins says; “We have already confirmed Spring and Autumn Fair x Moda 2022 as they’re the only exhibitions which have fantastic footfall & where we meet existing stockists plus lots of new ones generating a massive increase in our sales. They have a great buzz and are a breath of fresh air! Makes absolute sense to combine Moda with Autumn& also Spring Fair. And we needed the 4 days!”
Visitors will discover new designs from returning brands NOMADS, Zelly and Earth Squared. The show also welcomes sustainable and recycled eyewear brand Waterhaul, and Pretty Pink Jewellery who use only raw materials ethically sourced from Brazilian cooperatives in the Amazon rainforest to create their jewellery.
A host of Turkish brands are returning including ready to wear and contemporary brand Hukka Design and Jus De Pommes, and footwear brands Charmia, Pandora Shoes, Rovigo & Divino Shoes.
The ever-popular Moda VIP Programme (previously known as the Moda Hosted Buyers Programme) continues for Spring Fair and demonstrates the show’s commitment to supporting its customers and help ensure it delivers a good return on investment.