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The Pentagon has teamed with the Massachusetts Institute of Technology for the creation of an institute which will develop high-tech fibers and textiles. The Revolutionary Fibers and Textiles Manufacturing Innovation Institute will be based in Cambridge, Massachusetts, and bring together a consortium of 89 universities, manufacturers and non-profit organisations.
By bringing together high-tech firms and textile makers, the institute aims to create fabrics that can see, hear, sense, communicate, store energy, regulate temperature, monitor health, change color, and more. The non-profit institute will seek to enable new defense and commercial applications such as shelters with power generation and storage capacity built into the fabric, and uniforms that can regulate temperature and detect chemical and radioactive threats.
The institute would pair companies like audio equipment maker Bose, computer chip maker Intel, and nanofiber manufacturer FibeRio with textile manufacturers and users such as Warwick Mills and shoemaker New Balance. In addition to the $75 million from the Defense Department, the institute will be funded with nearly $250 million from non-federal sources.
The Pentagon is the headquarters of the US Department of Defense and, encompassing more than six million square feet of floor space, ranks among the largest office buildings in the world.
"Along with its local advantages like cheap abundant labour and lots of land, Africa has the potential to emerge as a global power house in apparel production with the right government policies. Apparel production constantly shifts. It's often one of the first manufacturing businesses that go into a developing country, also the first to leave as the country grows and develops. And with"
Along with its local advantages like cheap abundant labour and lots of land, Africa has the potential to emerge as a global power house in apparel production with the right government policies. Apparel production constantly shifts. It's often one of the first manufacturing businesses that go into a developing country, also the first to leave as the country grows and develops. And with continued margin pressure, companies are constantly looking at new low cost, reliable sources.
The right mix for apparel industry
Africa has many of the ingredients that can make it a global force in apparel and textile exports. However, it will take some time for all these ingredients to come together and mirror what China, India, Vietnam and others have done over the last 30 years.
It has cheap, abundant labour along with water, power, cotton and lots of land. It has receptive governments and attractive investment conditions. But Africa still needs to build much more capacity coupled with vertical operations so that it can convert its raw material into yarn and fabric.
Many US and EU companies are already doing business here, including H&M, Tesco, Primark, VF Corp, PVH, Kohl's, Wal-Mart, Dillard's, Dollar General, IFG, Jones Apparel, Haggar, Academy, Belk, Dickies, Children's Place, Carter's and Family Dollar. While the value of current apparel exports is, in global terms, very small, Africa does have a history of garment production and exports. In 2014 Sub-Sahara Africa exported almost US$1bn in apparel value.
Advantage Afrcia
According to Chris Wynne-Potts, CEO at African Merchandising Services Africa has many advantages. It has abundant labour. By 2035, Sub-Saharan Africa will have the highest working age population (15-64) anywhere in the world – with more than 900 million people. Low wages: Kenya US$100 (per month), Lesotho US$90, Tanzania US$90, Madagascar US$65, Ethiopia US$50, Mauritius US$165.
AGOA renewed for 10 years till 2025 gives 45 countries in sub-Saharan Africa duty-free access to the US, with the added advantage of being able to use third-country fabric from anywhere. According to Gail Strickler, Sssistant US trade representative for textiles and apparel, this is a "game changer" and could quadruple its current exports and create another 500,000 jobs.
With the promotion of the apparel and textile industries, particularly in Kenya, Ethiopia and Lesotho; this sector is seen as being a major employer and reducer of poverty. These countries also have training centers and tertiary institutions to promote textile and apparel technical qualifications. Government incentives and tax holidays are offered by many countries to investors.
But Africa also faces some challenges in its growth path. Lack of locally produced, competitively pricesd export quality fabric. Africa grows plenty of cotton but almost all is exported as raw material. Currently, African spinning, knitting, weaving and dyeing represents only about 10 per cent of total improvement in infrastructure along transport routes, port efficiency, government red tape and streamlining export systems need continued work.
Experts opine that there is also a need for a clearly defined government policy on attracting investment, aggressive marketing of this policy in conjunction with potential investors.
The H&M Group’s annual report for fiscal 2015 was recently released. Sales including VAT increased 19 per cent in the 12 months ended November 30 to 209.9 billion Swedish kronor (roughly $28.5 billion) and operating profit was 26.9 billion Swedish kroner ($3.3 billion)—its highest result to date, despite a strong U.S. dollar which made purchasing considerably more expensive.
According to CEO Karl-Johan Persson sales developed well across all group’s brands, including H&M, H&M Home, Cos, & Other Stories, Monki, Weekday and Cheap Monday, helped in part by the 413 new stores that opened throughout the year, mostly in China (83) and the US (59).
The retailer now operates 3,924 locations in 61 markets (including Taiwan, Peru, Macau, India and South Africa, which were added in 2015) and plans to ramp up its number of store openings by 10 to 15 percent annually. For 2016, that will mean around 425 new stores, mostly in existing markets. But the retailer will also enter New Zealand, Cyprus and Puerto Rico for the first time, to bring the total number of markets H&M has a presence in to 64. The report noted that H&M’s 4,000th location will open this spring, meaning the chain’s store count has doubled in six years. In addition to brick-and-mortar openings, e-commerce will be offered in nine more of its namesake brand’s existing markets: Ireland, Japan, Greece, Croatia, Slovenia, Estonia, Latvia, Lithuania and Luxembourg. By the end of the year, customers in 32 countries will be able to shop the brand online.
The main focus of expansion in 2016 will be on Cos, which is now a globally established fashion brand with more than 150 stores in 30 countries. Persson said new markets for the higher priced brand will include the Czech Republic, Romania, Latvia, Malaysia and Saudi Arabia (via franchise). Also pleasing is the fact that our latest addition, & Other Stories, continues to be well received. Efficient logistics flows are essential and the least-polluting method of transport must be used,” the report said. “In 2015 a total of 90 percent of the group’s products were carried from suppliers to the distribution centers by rail or waterway.”
Also notable: 31 percent of cotton used last year was from sustainable sources (meaning either organic cotton, recycled cotton or cotton grown under the Better Cotton Initiative), up from the prior year’s 21 percent. Plus, more than 12,000 tons of clothing was collected in 2015 as part of H&M’s in-store Garment Collecting initiative.
Poor working conditions and low wages are public-relations problems that plague fast-fashion retailers and H&M—which doesn’t own any factories but contracts around 820 independent suppliers mainly in Asia and Europe—has been working to regulate both. Persson concluded, “For 2016 we see many opportunities, but are also well aware of the challenges that exist. We firmly believe that our customer offering and our investments will lead to increased market share, and will strengthen our position even further during the year.”
The upcoming ITMA ASIA + CITME exhibition in China is seeing a huge response. Reports suggest that leading textile machinery makers have already snapped up space at the exhibition which will be held from October 21 to 25 in Shanghai, China. Over 90 per cent of the 180,000 sq. mt. of exhibition space had been sold. The 2016 combined exhibition is expected to feature over 1,500 domestic and international textile machinery manufacturers from over 26 economies who will showcase advanced solutions and energy efficient machinery and processes.
Chinese exhibitors make up the biggest country group, booking over 65 per cent of the total exhibition space. The other top participating economies are Germany, Italy, Japan, Switzerland and Taiwan. According to Charles Beauduin, President of CEMATEX the high level of interest from exhibitors has reaffirmed ITMA ASIA + CITME as the leading marketing platform for textile machinery manufacturers seeking to tap the China market. “We are pleased to provide them with a recognised platform for their strategic promotion and will ensure that the combined show continues to be a relevant and effective platform for sellers and buyers to transact business and to take advantage of the vast potential that China offers.”
Exhibits at the combined exhibition are organised into sectors based on manufacturing processes, and spinning machinery. This is followed by finishing, knitting and weaving. In addition, the nonwovens sector has seen a 20 per cent increase from the last combined show in 2014.
China continues to expand the infrastructure construction sector, accelerate urbanisation and increase awareness of the environmental protection under the government’s 13th Five-Year Plan period (2016-2020). It is expected that demand for technical textiles and nonwovens products will rise in the coming years.
As per Gu Ping, Vice President of China Textile Machinery Association (CTMA), As China’s textile industry continues its transformation, demand for advanced machinery and technology is on the rise. Textile manufacturers need to keep ahead of the industry and readjust their strategy to enhance overall production efficiency. “They should adopt a longer-term outlook to focus on the quality of their products which will ultimately contribute to their company’s bottom line. This will lead to a demand for new machinery and technology to modernise and upgrade their existing textile equipment,” says Peng
Bangladesh government is forming a central fund for the readymade garment sector. There will be contributions from owners, buyers, government and other sources. Export-oriented factories would have to contribute 0.03 per cent of their freight on board price to the fund while contributions from the government and buyers would be voluntary. The labour ministry on March 27 formed a 10-member board to set up the fund, determine contributions and their realisation procedure and provisions for utilisations of the money for welfare of beneficiaries in the RMG sector.
Lien banks of the export-oriented companies would pay the amount to the fund as automatic claim over the FoB prices that would come in the banks’ possession. There would be two bank accounts for the fund –– one will be a beneficiary account and the other will be a contingency account. Money would be deposited equally in the two accounts as per rules. The premium of group insurance and health insurance would be paid from the contingency account.
Grants for workers or their family members would be taken from the beneficiary account while amount deposited in the contingency account would be used to meet the dues of workers of any closed factory if its owner is unable to pay the workers. An executive board has been formed for the readymade garment sector as the sector is the highest export earner. The executive board for other sectors will be formed gradually.
Americhem has added several key staff members to its worldwide nonwovens team, increasing access to Americhem products and solutions for the nonwovens industry. Kam Lui has joined Americhem as development specialist for nonwovens. He brings more than 20 years of technical experience in the polymer processing industry and will work closely with the development and commercial teams. He has a degree in chemical engineering.
Greg Kern is account manager for nonwovens. He has many years of experience in the polymer industry. He is a chemical engineer and will work closely with customers to develop products that create value through technical innovations.
Peter Puchalla has joined the organization as films and nonwovens market leader. Previously, he has worked as account and business development manager, supply chain management and process engineer. He has a dual degree in industrial engineering and business management.
US-based Americhem, is a global provider of color and additive solutions for synthetic fibers. This year, the company’s synthetic fibers business invested in two new custom-made high speed spinning lines. Global capabilities for nonwovens and synthetic fibers include eleven dedicated spin lines throughout Americhem’s global plant network and a spun bonded fabric pilot line dedicated to the nonwovens industry.
www.americhem.com/
The Dutch government, along with a coalition of trade unions, non-governmental organizations, and industry groups, has pledged to address the myriad social and environmental issues endemic to garment- and textile-producing countries such as Bangladesh, India, Pakistan, and Turkey. An agreement, drafted under the agies of the Social and Economic Council of the Netherlands, lists child and forced labor, environmental pollution, living wages, better working conditions, and animal welfare among the key areas that require “practical improvements.” Not only does it need to secure funding, but it also has to secure the signatures of at least 35 brands and retailers—representing 30 per cent of sales in the Netherlands—by June.
Workers in the textile industry are also exposed to a number of chemicals, especially those engaged in the activities of dyeing, printing and finishing. In the long run, exposure to formaldehyde can lead to respiratory difficulty and eczema. Contact of the chemicals with skin as well as inhalation of the chemicals can lead to several serious health effects.
All signatories, with the help of participating trade unions and civil groups, have to commit to a number of objective. Textile workers are at high risk for developing cancer of the stomach, colorectal cancer, thyroid cancer, testicular cancer and nasal cancer. High levels of noise have been observed in most units engaged in the textile industry, particularly those in developing countries. In the long run, exposure to high noise levels has been known to damage the eardrum and cause hearing loss. Other problems like fatigue, absenteeism, annoyance, anxiety, reduction in efficiency, changes in pulse rate and blood pressure as well as sleep disorders have also been noted on account of continuous exposure to noise. Lack of efficient maintenance of machinery is one of the major reasons behind the noise pollution in a majority of the units. Brands will be required to identify the issues affecting their suppliers at all stages of their supply chains. They’ll also be expected to draw up an “annual improvement plan” with specific goals over the next three to five years. Every year, all parties must issue a joint report on their activities under the agreement and the results they have achieved. The Dutch government says it hopes 80 percent of clothing companies will be on board by 2020, since the covenant’s success hinges on the support and financial assistance of its members.
Asper WTO Statistical Review 2017, the ratio of international trade growth to GDP fell to 0.6, representing the worst year since 2001; growth was just 1.3 per cent in volume terms, the weakest growth rate since 2008. Despite a brightening of the EU economy, textile and clothing (T&C) activity in the EU lost dynamism towards the end of the year. Textile activity improved to some extent, while activity in the clothing industry showed no signs of recovery. Year 2016 witnessed the slowest growth in EU exports since the financial crisis, while the retail turnover development was less dynamic than in previous year, recording a modest growth.
In spite of political concerns, the overall situation of the EU and OECD countries continued to improve both in The EU’s economic improvement did not, however, benefit the clothing sector (whose production fell further), whilst the textile sector edged ahead by just +1.6 per cent. Production prices again fell across the European Union as a whole, with an overall reduction of -1.1 per cent. The only exception was in the United Kingdom, where output prices rose.
Turnover index
The EU-28 turnover index for the clothing sector surpassed the 2010 threshold, up by +0.8 per cent. The index for textiles reached a new high in 2016 at 107.5, compared to 105.5 points in 2015 – an increase of +1.9 per cent. In the EU as a whole, investment only grew very slightly in 2016, taking into account the time lag between investment decisions and their implementation. Besides, Switzerland and Turkey faced declines in both sectors. Employment in the EU for both the textiles and clothing sectors remained almost stable in 2016. The textiles sector was in a more robust position, enabling it to boost employment, whereas the clothing sector again declined.
Outlook seems positive
Barring some continuing uncertainty, in particular related to the trade policy of the US and the effects of Brexit, especially on exchange rates, the outlook for the industry looks positive. Prices are rising, but quite slowly. This is also true for the costs of energy and certain raw materials. The value of the euro has tended to recover, at least until August 2017; EU consumer confidence and especially within the eurozone is at its highest level since April 2001. Unemployment has been steadily falling for more than four years now, both in the EU as a whole and in the eurozone, and the public finances of the majority of Member States have recovered.
Q1 2017 preliminary data was also favourable for the textile sector, except the decline in traditional sectors of spinning and weaving, as well as nonwovens, while finishing has seen a marginal recovery. Knitted items (circular knitting) continued to grow, but at a reduced pace. ‘Other textiles’, including technical textiles, expanded more sustainably. The growth mainly came from the Eastern European countries. The clothing sector continued to cut production, yet turnover rose slightly. However, managers’ expectations during the second half of 2017 continued to rise in the clothing industry with positive assessments of production expectations.
Denim Days will be celebrated in Amsterdam from April 11 to 17, 2016. The show focuses on denim’s tradition and innovation, heritage and style. The program has something for denim lovers of every kind, from brands and makers to wearers and speakers. There will be animation shops, fashion shows, conferences and an international exhibition.
This edition of Amsterdam Denim Days include a six-day public program named City Center which involves product launches and other events taking place in a variety of shops and boutiques; the public festival Blueprint features a selection of denim labels, workshops, seminars, exclusive denim items, exhibitions, music and food; and an invitation-only trade show for professionals called Kingpins.
The Kingpins show gathers several international players in production and finishing of denim. Blueprint is known among denim professionals as an exclusive fashion-forward denim platform. So far it was only for professionals. For the first time, the participating brands and initiatives will be open to all denim addicts.
www.amsterdamdenimdays.com/
India wants to develop apparel, made-ups and home furnishing sector. Steps will be taken to develop skills repository for the apparel value chain, national occupational standards in the industry, establish well-structured sector specific labor market information systems and improvise the training delivery value chain, including third party assessments and certifications.
The scheme envisages imparting training to youngsters as well as assessing and certifying the existing workforce in the apparel sector. Existing manpower of apparel factories and those having prior knowledge will be assessed and certified.
The Apparel Made-UPs Home Furnishing Sector Skill Council of India (AMH SSC) has been launched with a primary mandate of enhancing and building a capacity in skill development. One of the salient responsibilities of AMH SSC is designing training programs based on industry demands of different segments and ensuring that all successful trainees are certified through an accredited assessment agency.
Assessment is the process of evidence collection of a person’s competence level through a range of methods, tests, observations, interviews, assignments and professional discussions etc. AMH SSC has been given the target of certifying more than two million persons till 2022 in skilling courses for the apparel sector.
