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Ohenstein India plans to host the Oeko-Tex Summit & Exhibition 2025 in Mumbai from December 9–10, 2025, at the Bombay Exhibition Centre (NESCO). This summit will bring together global Oeko-Tex standards with India's dynamic textile, leather, and footwear sectors.
The event will act as a powerful platform for stakeholders across the entire value chain - from raw material producers to final product manufacturers - to explore sustainable solutions and forge new international partnerships. It will feature eleven pavilions dedicated to various product categories, including fibers, yarns, fabrics, garments, and home textiles. The event will also feature a special International Pavilion housing global certifiers, experts, and regulators, making it a truly global affair.
The summit is particularly beneficial for professionals involved in buying, sourcing, merchandising, production, and compliance, especially those who export to major markets like Europe, the US, the UK, and Australia. It provides a unique opportunity to network with Oeko-Tex certified supply chains, source compliant and innovative materials, and showcase sustainable manufacturing capabilities. High-value knowledge sessions and panel discussions will offer the latest insights into compliance, traceability, and transparency.
Vinod Kumar, Managing Director, Hohenstein India & SL, highlights, the even aims to strengthen India's integration into the Oeko-Tex certified global supply chain from Fibre to Fashion.’ The summit will promote sustainable choices and serve as a platform for industry players to ‘source, share, and grow,’ he emphasizes.
The Oeko-Tex Summit & Exhibition 2025 promises to be a hub where innovation meets influence, offering attendees exclusive visibility and engagement with key decision-makers. It provides a prime opportunity for business growth within the certified textile market and a chance to build new global partnerships that will drive the future of sustainable textile production.
US-based footwear and apparel company Allbirds, Inc registered a 23.1 per cent Y-o-Y decline in net revenue to $39.7 million in Q2, FY25. This company attributed this decline to planned retail store closures and transitions to a distributor model in certain international markets.
The company's gross profit declined to $16.2 million from the $26.1 million reported in Q2 2024. This led to a gross margin of 40.7per cent, a decrease of 980 basis points. The decline in margin was driven by increased promotional activity, inventory adjustments related to the European market's distributor transition, a higher mix of international distributor sales, and rising freight and duty costs.
Allbirds' reported a net loss of $15.5 million in Q2, FY25. The company’s adjusted EBITDA improved to $12.6 million compared to a $13.7 million loss in Q2 2024. Inventory at the end of the quarter declined by 21.3 per cent to $42.2 million.
Joe Vernachio, CEI, states. strong execution during the first half of the year has set the company up for what’s ahead this fall. The firm is confident of returning to top-line growth in Q4, FY25 driven by a ‘continuous flow of modern lifestyle footwear’ and disciplined operational management, he adds.
In H1, FY25, the company’s net revenue declined 21 per cent Y-o-Y to $71.8 million, while gross margin contracted to 42.6 per cent. Net loss for the six-month period improved to $37.4 million from the $46.5 million loss last year. Adjusted EBITDA loss also improved to $31.2 million from $34.6 million in H1 2024.
Looking ahead, Allbirds expects net revenue to range between $165 million and $180 million for full FY25, factoring in a projected revenue impact of $20 million to $25 million from international distributor shifts and store closures. The adjusted EBITDA loss for the year is projected to be between $55 million and $65 million. In Q3, FY25 Allbirds anticipates net revenue between $33 million and $38 million, with an adjusted EBITDA loss of $16 million to $20 million.
Appreciating President Trump's latest executive order to pause tariffs, The American Apparel & Footwear Association (AAFA) says, this pause helps avert devastating consequences like product elimination and business closures. The order extends the temporary reduction of retaliatory tariffs on goods imported from China for an additional 90 days. This order maintains the baseline tariff rate at 30 per cent.
Steve Lamar, President and CEO, criticized the constant cycle of deadline delays and vague deal terms, which he argues has stifled innovation, strategic decision-making, and long-term growth for American companies.
Lamar urged the administration to negotiate a ‘non-stacking provision’ with China, similar to existing agreements with Japan and the EU. He pointed out, even at 30 per cent, the tariff on the US's largest trading partner is ‘untenably high.’ He highlighted, these tariffs are in addition to other existing levies, such as the century-old Smoot-Hawley MFN tariffs and the Section 301 tariffs. According to Lamar, this ‘double taxation’ ultimately harms ‘hardworking American families’ by increasing the cost of everyday essentials like clothing and footwear.
The AAFA's response comes after months of advocacy, during which the organization has argued that the current tariff policy does not support the growth of US manufacturing or the 3.6 million American workers in the industry. The organization also noted, key trade preference programs, including the African Growth and Opportunity Act (AGOA) and the Haiti HOPE/HELP programs, are set to expire on September 30 unless Congress renews them. For those interested in tracking the impact of these policies, the AAFA provides regular updates on its website.
The global textile industry faces an urgent imperative: sustainability. As environmental concerns escalate and consumer demand shifts towards eco-conscious products, a fierce race is underway to determine the dominant fiber of the future. While natural fibers offer inherent advantages and recycled materials promise circularity, Manmade Cellulosic Fibers (MMCs) are rapidly emerging as a frontrunner, poised to redefine the industry landscape.
The competition between various sustainable fibers is complex, with each category presenting distinct strengths and challenges.
The contenders and their strengths, weaknesses
Fibers are broadly categorized into natural, manmade (regenerated, synthetic, inorganic), with bio-based options spanning both.
Natural fibers, under environmental scrutiny: Natural fibers like cotton, hemp, flax, wool, and silk are inherently biodegradable and renewable. However, the sector faces significant challenges. Cotton's water and pesticide intensity are major concerns, despite the sustainability potential of organic and regenerative farming. The natural fiber industry often suffers from fragmented messaging and internal competition.
Regulatory frameworks like the EU’s Product Environmental Footprint (PEF) can inadvertently penalize natural fibers by prioritizing carbon emissions over critical attributes like biodegradability, renewability, and longevity, sometimes favoring synthetics. The Digital Product Passport (DPP) also complicates compliance for smaller natural fiber producers, pushing brands towards more traceable, often manmade, solutions.
While historically dominant, natural fibers' share in global fiber production has seen a decline. Cotton, for instance, now accounts for around 23-25 per cent of global fiber output, down from nearly 40 per cent decades ago, primarily due to the rise of synthetics.
Recycled fibers, seeking scale: Recycling textile waste into new fibers is crucial for a circular economy. However, scaling beyond established methods like recycled polyester (rPET) and mechanical recycling remains a hurdle. Most chemical recycling technologies are in pilot or early commercial stages, not yet cost-competitive or proven at scale. The industry struggles with complex feedstock sorting. Furthermore, recycled synthetics, while reducing reliance on virgin fossil fuels, still shed microplastics and are not biodegradable, posing end-of-life concerns.
Recycled fibers, especially rPET, have seen rapid adoption. Global rPET fiber production reached over 14 million tonnes in 2023, with a projected CAGR of 7-8 per cent through 2030. In contrast, advanced chemical textile-to-textile recycling capacities are still relatively small, estimated in the tens of thousands of tonnes annually, despite significant investments.
Manmade cellulosic (MMC) fibers, a frontrunner: MMCs, derived from wood pulp or other plant-based feedstocks (e.g., viscose, lyocell, modal, and innovative new fibers), are rapidly gaining traction. This sector benefits from a structured industry, often backed by large Nordic forest groups and leading research institutions. Modern MMC production has addressed past environmental concerns through closed-loop chemical systems and sustainable forest management (FSC/PEFC certified).
A key advantage is the innovation in feedstock, with new MMCs utilizing textile waste, cardboard, paper, and agricultural residues. Scaling is rapid, driven by strategic partnerships that meet market demand and price points. Leaders in this category include Ioncell Oy, Spinnova, Kuura, and Infinited Fiber Company. Infinited Fiber, for instance, secured over €200 million in funding for a flagship factory targeting 30,000 tonnes per year by 2026.
Global MMC production reached almost 8.5 million tonnes in 2023, with a projected CAGR of 6-8 per cent through 2030, outpacing many other fiber categories.
Table: Fiber category and growth drivers
|
Fiber type |
Global production (2023 est. tonnes) |
Projected CAGR (2024-2030) |
Sustainability challenges |
Growth drivers |
|
Natural Fibers |
35-40 million |
1-3% |
Water use, pesticides, fragmentation, regulatory bias |
Consumer demand for naturals, regenerative practices |
|
Synthetics |
75-80 million |
3-4% |
Microplastics, non-biodegradability, fossil-based |
Cost-effectiveness, performance properties |
|
Recycled Fibers |
14-15 million (mostly rPET) |
7-8% (overall) |
Scaling chemical recycling, feedstock sorting |
Circularity goals, brand commitments |
|
Manmade Cellulosic (MMC) |
8.5 million |
6-8% |
Chemical processes (improving), forestry impact (managed) |
Innovation, closed-loop, new feedstocks, scalability |
(Note: Figures are approximate and based on aggregated industry reports from sources like Textile Exchange, Lenzing, CIRFS, Grand View Research. Total fiber market is approximately 120-130 million tonnes annually.)
What the future holds
Growth Drivers and Future Outlook
The shift towards sustainable fibers is due to growing demand from consumers, ambitious brand commitments, evolving regulations (like the EU Green Deal), groundbreaking technological innovation, and investment in sustainable fiber ventures. MMCs will dominate near-term growth and investor attention due to their structured industry approach, demonstrated scalability, proactive addressing of environmental concerns, and versatility in performance.
However, a truly sustainable textile future demands diversity, collaboration, and shared purpose, not fragmentation. Natural fibers must unify messaging, embrace regenerative practices, and enhance traceability. Recycled fibers require continued investment to overcome scaling and feedstock challenges. The race is less about a single victor and more about collective innovation, transparency, and a unified commitment to a genuinely sustainable global textile industry.
A prominent Indian garment manufacturer, Gokaldas Exports is facing a major crisis due to a steep 50 per cent tariff imposed by the United States on Indian goods. In an interview with the Economic Times, Siva Ganapathi, Managing Director, outlines the potential fallout and the company's plan to cope. With India’s garment exports to the US valued at around $5 billion, the entire sector is at risk.
Ganapathi calls the 50 per cent tariff ‘catastrophic,’ arguing. it's more of an embargo than a trade barrier. He explains, a 25 per cent tariff could be managed, but a 50 per cent increase would lead to substantial business losses. The industry is already feeling the pressure, with some brands resorting to ‘shrinkflation’-reducing a product's features to keep prices the same- which could change how consumers shop.
To deal with this crisis, Gokaldas Exports is considering a strategic pivot to European markets. This would require the company to reduce its production in India and look for new opportunities overseas to counter the competitive disadvantage. Ganapathi hopes, a resolution will be found soon, ideally lowering the tariff to a more manageable 20 per cent. If not, the Indian garment industry could face severe consequences.
Ganapathi urges the Indian government to fast-track free trade agreements with the European Union and the United Kingdom, and to negotiate a deal with the US. He suggests, temporary measures, like export incentives, could help ease the financial burden on the industry and protect workers' jobs. Ganapathi points out, countries like China have used similar strategies to protect their industries, highlighting the need for India to act proactively. The future of Indian garment exports now depends on these critical negotiations and policy decisions.
A leading UK event for Home, Gift, and Fashion, Autumn Fair will return to the NEC Birmingham from September 7–10, 2025 with a dedicated Indian Pavilion to celebrate the vibrant craftsmanship and innovation of Indian design and manufacturing.
In collaboration with India’s primary trade promotion body, Federation of Indian Export Organisations (FIEO), the fair will host 20 carefully selected Indian exhibitors. These businesses will showcase a curated collection of homeware, lifestyle products, textiles, gifts, and fashion accessories. A strategic part of India’s internationalization strategy, this initiative aims to connect these companies with UK and European buyers and promote global trade.
The introduction of the Indian Pavilion is particularly timely, following the signing of a landmark UK and India Free Trade Agreement (FTA). This agreement is expected to significantly reduce trade barriers and has the potential to double bilateral trade to $120 billion by 2030. The pavilion will give buyers exclusive access to new-to-market products, ethical production methods, and innovative design from India, a country that is rapidly becoming a key sourcing hub.
Vineet Arora, Deputy Director. FIEO, highlights, participation, under the ‘Brands from India’ banner, will showcase India’s diverse export capabilities and global competitiveness. Nihat Berktas, Head - International Development for Retail & Fashion, Hyve Group, notes, this is the first official participation from India since the FTA was announced and that they anticipate even more Indian brands will join both the Spring and Autumn Fairs in the future.
The pavilion will feature a diverse array of companies, including Agnes Bags and Gloster Limited with eco-friendly products, Neela Home & Prakash Cotton Mills with home furnishings, and Arnika Fashion with luxurious handloom sarees. Other exhibitors include Priniv with sustainable wooden toys, Chopra Musicals with nautical décor, and Haida Tribal Ayurvedic and Handicrafts offering authentic Ayurvedic products. The lineup also includes fashion, jewelry, and lifestyle products from a variety of other businesses, further strengthening India’s presence at the fair.
From January-July 2025, textile and apparel (T&A) exports from Vietnam rose by 9 per cent to over $26.33 billion.
To reach its ambitious annual target of $47–48 billion, the sector now needs to average more than $4 billion in monthly exports for the rest of the year. This is a significant challenge, especially with Vietnamese goods facing tariffs of up to 20 per cent in the US market, which puts them at a disadvantage against competitors.
As the industry prepares for a potentially turbulent second half of the year, leaders are focused on several key strategies. Maintaining a stable workforce is a top priority, with companies being urged to review and upgrade their equipment to handle new orders efficiently. Le Tien Truong, Chairman, Vietnam National Textile and Garment Group (Vinatex), highlights the need for businesses to adjust production plans wisely to secure jobs and income for their employees.
Financial flexibility is also crucial. Firms must adopt smart management strategies to absorb rising costs and adjust pricing to retain orders in a tough market. To boost competitiveness, businesses should fully leverage the 17 new-generation free trade agreements already in effect and stay responsive to global economic shifts.
Additionally, a transition to more advanced production models is essential. Companies are encouraged to move beyond traditional cut-make-trim (CMT) operations to higher-value models like free on board (FOB), original design manufacturing (ODM), and original brand manufacturing (OBM). Coupled with investments in modern machinery and skilled labor, this shift will enhance product value and strengthen Vietnam's position in the global supply chain.
The industry is also calling for more support from the government, including policies on credit, tax, and infrastructure to attract investment and reduce dependence on imported raw materials. Vu Duc Giang, Chairman, Vietnam Textile and Apparel Association (VITAS), emphasized on the need for businesses to defend their traditional markets while actively seeking new partnerships and building more sustainable supply chains.
A delegation from Australia’s largest single apparel buyer, Kmart met with Mahmud Hasan Khan, President, BGMEA to discuss collaboration opportunities for building a sustainable garment industry.
Held at the BGMEA Complex in Uttara, Dhaka, the meeting included Tristram Gray, Head- Corporate Affairs; Albert Young, Head-Ethical Sourcing; and Obaid Gazi, Ethical Sourcing Manager, Kmart Australia & New Zealand. Senior officials from BGMEA, including Inamul Haque Khan, Senior Vice President also attended.
During the discussion, Gray expressed the company's commitment to strengthening its long-standing business relationship with Bangladesh and increasing future collaborations. The conversation focused on BGMEA’s priorities for a sustainable industry and how Kmart could support these initiatives.
Mahmud Hasan Khan, President, BGMEA highlighted, sustainability is a key focus for the association. He noted, his board has initiated dialogues with all worker federations to foster good industrial relations and shared other measures taken for worker welfare. He also emphasized on the need for a Unified Code of Conduct for the garment industry to simplify the audit process, reduce pressure on factories, and enhance the industry's ethical and sustainable practices.
Both parties also discussed strategies to increase garment exports from Bangladesh to Australia, a promising market due to Bangladesh’s duty-free access. The BGMEA President urged Kmart to strengthen partnerships with suppliers to help them diversify products and enhance production capabilities. The Kmart delegation offered to facilitate communication between any BGMEA trade delegation and Australian government policymakers.
The British Fashion Council (BFC) has launched a curated program of public fashion events and activations titled City Wide Celebration (CWC), in Manchester. This move further strengthens Manchester’s growing reputation as a major fashion hub, following Chanel's high-profile Metiers D'Art show in the city last year.
Running from September 12-16, the CWC will bring the spirit of London Fashion Week to the North of England. The Trafford Centre will be the central venue, hosting a variety of fashion events and immersive experiences. The celebration will also extend to other major UK cities, including London, Liverpool, and Newcastle.
A key part of this year's CWC is the new ‘At Home With’ initiative, a series of talks focused on the cultural and geographic influences of prominent British designers. Manchester’s headline event, presented by 1664 Blanc, will feature a panel discussion at the Trafford Centre on September 13.
The panel will include a diverse group of celebrated designers with strong ties to Manchester including Kazna Asker, a British-Yemeni designer known for blending streetwear with traditional Islamic garments; Liam Winter, the self-taught jeweler behind The Winter House, who creates conceptual, art-inspired pieces influenced by his studies in Performance Design and Film; Nadine Merabi, a designer whose journey began out of a passion for creating bold, glamorous occasionwear that celebrates confidence, inspired by her Lebanese heritage and British upbringing and Matty Bovan, a Central Saint Martins graduate and award-winning fashion knitwear designer who has collaborated with major brands like Marc Jacobs and Miu Miu.
These designers will share an intimate conversation about how Manchester’s unique culture has shaped their creative voices, showcasing the city’s rich influence on the fashion world.
An initiative designed to help women-led businesses engage in global digital trade, the Women Exporter in Digital Economy (WEIDE) grant was recently launched in Abuja. Dr Ngozi Okonjo-Iweala, Director-General, World Trade Organization (WTO) officiated the launch. Nigeria has been selected as a pilot beneficiary of the fund, with the Nigerian Export Promotion Council (NEPC) being one of only four global Business Support Organizations (BSOs), and the sole African representative, chosen to implement the first phase.
This grant aligns with the NEPC's ongoing efforts to empower women in the export sector. According to Nonye Ayeni, Executive Director, NEPC the council has already trained over 100 women-led businesses on increasing the value of spice and herb exports. This was achieved through the use of aggregation centers that streamline supply chains and connect producers to both local and international markets.
Ayeni highlighted, these efforts are part of President Bola Tinubu’s Renewed Hope Agenda, which aims to integrate women and youth into the export ecosystem. The NEPC also hosted a forum to help women-led businesses capitalize on opportunities under the African Continental Free Trade Area (AfCFTA). The goal of these initiatives is to enhance the export competitiveness of women; improve their access to market information and trade facilitation services; boost data collection on women-led non-oil export activities and advocate for more gender-responsive trade and export policies.
In the first half of the year, the NEPC registered 2,285 new exporters and conducted 252 capacity-building programs for over 27,000 participants. These programs covered essential topics like documentation, export readiness, Good Agricultural Practices (GAP), Good Warehousing Practice (GWP), and Good Manufacturing Practice (GMP).
The council also facilitated free international certifications, such as FDA and HACCP, for 200 exporters, which helps them meet global standards, reduce product rejections, and boost competitiveness. As a part of its Corporate Social Investment, the NEPC distributed over 23,000 hybrid seedlings to more than 3,000 farmers to improve the quality and volume of produce for export.
