In the cavernous halls of the National Exhibition and Convention Center, a quiet but decisive shift in the textile industry’s vocabulary — and vision — was on display. Exhibitors unveiled vivid fabrics, innovative fibres, and recycling technologies, but the buzzword binding it all together was new: “Econogy.”

Coined by Messe Frankfurt, the organiser behind Intertextile Shanghai Apparel Fabrics, Econogy fuses ecology and economy. It signals that sustainability is no longer a feel-good extra but the engine of competitiveness in global textiles. “Sustainability is no longer a bonus — it’s a must,” said Olaf Schmidt, Vice President of Textiles & Textile Technologies at Messe Frankfurt, in his keynote address. “A product, however green, won’t survive if it isn’t economically viable. Econogy is about aligning those imperatives.”

From Ecology to Econogy: A strategic pivot

Messe Frankfurt’s sustainability work dates back years through its Texpertise Ecology initiatives. But 2025 marked the acceleration of a new phase: Texpertise Econogy, an umbrella framework uniting eco-driven exhibitors, certification schemes, and educational content across its global textile fairs.

At the heart of this strategy are tools designed to embed credibility and traceability:

● Econogy Check – an independent audit aligned with over 100 global standards, allowing exhibitors to validate claims and showcase sustainable credentials.

● Econogy Finder – an online sourcing directory for buyers seeking verified eco-friendly materials or processes.

● Econogy Hub – a dedicated show zone where suppliers, certifiers, and technology providers meet to display innovations and certifications.

● Econogy Talks & Tours – curated seminars, panels, and guided walks, translating sustainability into business practice.

The footprint of these initiatives is expanding fast. The Econogy Hub at Intertextile Shanghai grew by 70% over its debut, hosting nearly 50 exhibitors, including certification heavyweights Bureau Veritas, GOTS, TESTEX, Hohenstein, and Control Union.

Innovation takes centre stage

The fair floor revealed a surge of material and process innovation aimed at balancing environmental stewardship with commercial scale:

● Pyrus Biotech showcased bio-leather and plant-fibre textiles made from agricultural residues.

● Florence Biochem introduced microbial dyeing technology, replacing chemical-intensive processes with bio-based pigments.

● HKRITA’s “Green Machine” demonstrated a hydrothermal system for recycling blended fabrics.

● Alternatives such as Piñatex (pineapple-leaf leather), Kelsun (seaweed fibre), and Seawool (oyster-shell and PET yarn) underscored how waste streams can fuel high-performance textiles.

Digital solutions also drew attention, with platforms streamlining supply chains and cutting resource use.

Pressures driving the shift

Behind the showcase lies an urgent reality. Stricter legislation — from EU green-claims directives to global supply-chain due diligence rules — is compelling brands to prove sustainable sourcing and labour standards. Consumers, particularly younger demographics, are demanding transparency and responsible production.

Yet the path is complex:

● Verification and data remain uneven, especially for small and mid-sized manufacturers in loosely regulated regions.

● Cost pressures often clash with sustainability investments, demanding creative business models.

● Cultural and technical skills must evolve, from dye-house workers learning low-impact processes to designers adopting circularity.

Without credible tools, greenwashing risks erode trust, making verification platforms like Econogy Check vital.

Numbers that tell the story

Intertextile’s Autumn 2025 edition drew over 3,700 exhibitors from 26 economies, with a notable surge in space devoted to sustainable materials and traceable supply chains. Certified labels such as Made-in-Green and GOTS featured prominently, reflecting growing buyer demand for verifiable sustainability.

Messe Frankfurt’s own efforts mirror the ethos: a corporate code to cut energy and waste, partnerships with the UN Office for Partnerships since 2019, and reports like Texpertise Econogy Insights, which maps challenges from fibre impact to recycling solutions.

Building the future of “Econogy”

Schmidt acknowledged that scaling Econogy will take time: extending audits to more suppliers, ensuring global supply chains comply, and embedding sustainability metrics (carbon, water, labour) into decision-making. But he argued the opportunity outweighs the hurdles.

Firms that align ecology with profitability stand to gain:

● Brand value through credible eco-claims.

● Risk mitigation against regulation or raw-material shocks.

● Operational savings via reduced water, energy, and waste.

● Market access in regions where traceable eco-products are now standard.

A turning point

Intertextile Shanghai 2025 felt less like a trade fair and more like a blueprint for textiles’ next chapter. By putting structure — and economic rationale — behind sustainability, Messe Frankfurt is signalling that “Econogy” is here to stay.

As Schmidt put it, the industry is no longer talking about sustainability as a slogan. It is building systems, skills, and incentives to make it measurable, credible, and profitable. The task ahead is to scale these models globally — but the direction is clear: a textile economy where ecology is not sacrificed for growth, but drives it.