The impact of apparel industry on biodiversity is often overlooked, as a new McKinsey study reveals. The study defines biodiversity as the variety of life on Earth at all levels. Though a distinct issue, the term is related to Climate Change. The study blames three main stages in the apparel value chain for the industry’s negative impact on biodiversity. These are: production of raw materials; preparation and processing of materials; end of life. The McKinsey study also identifies five reasons for biodiversity loss related to apparel value chain:

Cotton farming

One of the most used non-synthetic fiber in the world cotton farming involves heavy use of insecticides and pesticides. As a Textile Today report shows, though cotton farming involves only 2.4 per cent of global cropland, it accounts for 22.5 percent of the world’s insecticide use and 10 percent of all pesticide use. Also, cotton is a water-intensive crop. It requires around t 713 gallons (2,700 liters) of water to produce one T-shirt.

Increasing use of man-made cellulose fibers (MMCFs)

Created from cellulose, a wood-derived material, MMCFs acquired from certified and sustainable tree plantations. According to estimations, more than 150 million trees are cut annually to make MMCFs. However, around 30 per cent MMCFs are also obtained from endangered and primary forests. The water and soil pollution in these plantation forests often leads to loss of habitat and endangered species.

Water pollution from textile dyeing and treatment

Textile dyeing leads to approximately 25 per cent industrial water pollution. The process contaminates freshwater resources with chemicals and other non-biodegradable liquid waste. Around 165 of the 1,900 chemicals used in clothing production have been classified as hazardous to health by the European Union,

Release of microplastics in oceans

Apparel production also leads to a release of around half a million tons of microplastics in oceans every year. Around 35 per cent of primary microplastics in the world’s oceans are released from the washing of synthetic textiles.

Rising textile waste

Nearly 73 per cent of textile waste ends up in landfills every year. This releases pollutants in the surroundings and leads to loss of habitat. Around 30 to 300 species per hectare are lost during the development of just one landfill site.

Measures to slow down impact on biodiversity

The study recommends certain measures to slowdown the apparel sector’s impact on biodiversity loss. These include:

Introduce new materials, processes

The study recommends making the most commonly used materials in the apparel industry such as cotton, MMCFs, and synthetics more sustainable. It also recommends stepping up investments in introducing new and innovative materials.

Tougher stance against waterway pollution

The study urges apparel brands to take tougher stance against waterway pollution from textile dyeing and processing. It urges brands to engage with suppliers to establish zero certification standards through education, targeted investment, and stricter accountability. Suppliers should also comply with Zero Discharge of Hazardous Chemicals, Manufacturing Restricted Substances List (ZDHC MRSL), and Wastewater Guidelines, it adds

Educate consumers

The study also urges brands to educate consumers to minimize their actions on biodiversity loss. It recommends simple behavioral adjustments and consumption choices like washing clothes in cold water, filtering microfibers during washing and using water-efficient or waterless washing machines for substantive results. Another way consumers can curb biodiversity loss is by garment repair, recycling, and resale.

Stop overproduction

Curbing overproduction of clothes is one of the best ways for apparel brands to stop biodiversity loss. Though manufacturers are known to recycle roughly 75 per cent of pre-consumer textile waste the remaining 25 per cent primarily ends up in landfills. This can be stopped by producing lesser clothes.