Nigeria imports nearly 90 per cent of its ‘Ankara’ print fabrics from China and India, as per a new report titled, ‘Who is Dressing 220 + Million Nigerians?’ by Consonance Investment.

Ankara is frequently used as Aso-Ebi, a Yoruba term meaning ‘family cloth,’ during events like weddings, funerals, and birthdays to demonstrate solidarity.

However, despite being a cultural staple and Nigerians spending between ₦36,000 and over ₦20 million on fashion annually, the country continues to rely on imported Ankara fabrics resulting in an estimated $3 billion loss in local value each year.

Local fashion brands and textile manufacturers account for less than 15 per cent of the clothing supply, largely due to inadequate investment in domestic production and retail infrastructure, adding that the value chain remains foreign-dependent, the report further noted.

Nigerian consumers spend between $2.5 billion and $6 billion on clothes every year. However, the fashion industry only makes up $129 million (₦205 billion) of the country’s GDP, or 0.47 per cent of the total, says the report. Most of this value is lost to imports and informal retail activity.

Nigeria imports up to $6 billion in apparel and textiles each year, excluding an estimated $1.2 billion in smuggled goods, while exports remain under $100 million, the report claims. Despite strong domestic demand and cultural influence, the industry remains fragmented, underfunded, and full of untapped potential, it adds.

The report also notes that ‘approximately 25,000 individuals are directly employed in Aba’s garment and leather clusters, with many more engaged in supporting industries.’

According to the report, at least 10,000 Nigerian fashion vendors operate on Instagram, powering a massive informal e-commerce scene.

The report states, less than 15 per cent of Nigeria’s fashion market is served by structured capital from banks and government agencies, with the majority of fashion brands in the country being self-funded.