A new study published in the September/October 2018 issue of the AATCC Review shows, DNA molecular tagging is an effective tool to authenticate denim and maintains its integrity even after exposed to the rigors of bleaching and abrasion.

The study was conducted by Applied DNA Sciences Inc. (Applied DNA) and the Fashion Institute of Technology (FIT). It was published in the AATCC Review, a highly regarded publication of the American Association of Textile Chemists and Colors.

At the FIT labs in New York, denim swatches were treated with unique DNA molecular tags produced by Applied DNA, then subjected to stone and bleach washings. The samples were then analysed at Applied DNA’s laboratories in Stony Brook, where it was proven that the DNA tags remained intact and suitable for high quality forensic scale analysis. Based on the observed stability, DNA tags of this kind may soon be ready for testing at a full manufacturing facility to verify the authenticity of the finished denim garment.

This technology will enable brands and manufacturers to track their fibres from the farm through to the finished product, allowing for a more transparent supply chain. Traceability can also help verify certain sustainability claims about commodities and products, helping ensure good practices and respect for people and the environment in supply.

A new report from Stats South Africa revals, the country‘s fashion sector is suffering from a lack of demand and a shortage of raw materials, posted a utilisation rate of 72.3 percent in the third quarter, the lowest of any sector. The sector, which consists of textile, clothing, leather and footwear factories, saw its factory utilisation rate fall from 72.4 percent in 2017 and 71.6 percent a year ago. The average large South African factory used 81 percent of its capacity in the third quarter, a slight uptick from an 80.6 percent utilization rate in the second quarter.

The main reason for factories not running at full output was lack of demand due to the country’s struggling economy. The South African economy officially slipped into recession during the second quarter, shrinking by 0.7 percent quarter over quarter. This followed a revised 2.6 percent contraction in the first quarter. The downturn was a result of a fall-off in activity in the agriculture, transport, trade, government and manufacturing industries. The trade industry experienced its second consecutive quarter of negative growth, falling 1.9 percent, as subdued sales in motor vehicles and retail trade contributed to the decline. South African household consumption expenditure fell in the second quarter compared with the first quarter, with spending declines on products such as transport, food, beverages and clothing.

Trade between Belarus and Italy in fashion products and accessories rose by 44 per cent in the first half of the year. Italy closely follows the development of Belarusian fashion. The agreement between the Belarusian and Italian fashion chambers is yielding positive results. Over the past five years, many Italian designers have taken part in Belarus Fashion Week. There has been a significant increase in trade between the two countries in fashion products and accessories.

Cooperation between Belarus and Italy has also been actively growing in the industrial sphere, particularly in the area of supply of textile machinery. Direct cooperation in the field of design has been vibrant as well. The two countries try to foster an exchange of experiences between their representatives who work in this field.

Kyrgyz Textile and Clothing Week will be held from November 7 to 16, 2018. Round tables devoted to the development of the textile and clothing industry will be held. In addition, representatives of enterprises of the sector, government bodies, non-governmental sector and experts will discuss state support for the textile and apparel industry to attract labor to the industry; effectiveness of the training system for the industry; ensuring decent working conditions and tools for financing the clothing industry; and export competitiveness of the textile and clothing industry.

An award ceremony for winners of competitions for young designers, industrial enterprises, craftsmen and a media competition announced during the Kyrgyz Textile and Clothing Week 2018 will be held. An exhibition-fair of garments from local manufacturers will be held at the Sports Palace in Bishkek from 7 to 11 November. Kyrgyz companies will showcase their clothes, shoes, accessories, and fabrics.

All conclusions and recommendations drawn up during the discussions will be presented at the high level forum to discuss the creation of favorable conditions for enhancing the national significance and image of the textile and garment industry of Kyrgyzstan.

The event is organized by the government of the Kyrgyz Republic, the Legprom Light Industry Enterprises Association of the Kyrgyz, the Fashion Designers Association, Dayry Foundation, development partners, including UNDP, ITC, EBRD, ILO, Russian-Kyrgyz Development Fund.

More than 200 foreign fashion brands are present in Vietnam, providing a wide range of products from mid- to high-end products, which hold 60 per cent of the market share. Vietnam has become very attractive for foreign fashion brands thanks to its young population, high growing economy and improved income.

Foreign brands show a big interest in Vietnam because of the industry’s high average growth rate of 15 per cent to 20 per cent. Japanese global apparel retailer Uniqlo will open its first store in Vietnam next year. Especially since Vietnamese consumers tend to prefer Japanese goods, Stripe, another Japanese apparel manufacturing giant, has also taken steps to enter Vietnam.

Fashion brands such as Zara, H&M and Mango are already present. Thanks to the high spending on fashion goods of Vietnamese consumers, many foreign brands are having good business in the country. Late last year, Zara and H&M also made their debut in Vietnam to break open the market of fast and affordable fashion for men, women, teenagers, and children.

Vietnamese spending on clothes is now third priority, after food and savings. The fashion market in Vietnam is estimated to grow to more than $3.8 billion this year and to over $5 five billion by 2021.

Cambodia’s preferred trade status with the European Union is at risk. This allowed Cambodian textile and apparel products to enter the European market duty free. The EU is reviewing Cambodia’s eligibility for this preference.

Cambodia's deteriorating respect for the rights of workers will be an important part of the EU's review process. Lately, however, progress on workers' rights in Cambodia has slowed significantly. While the government still allows some independent unions and workers'-rights organisations to operate, the space for them to advocate effectively is shrinking.

A number of labor union and human rights leaders have been targeted for official harassment, and some have been arrested or criminally charged. In several high-profile cases, labor leaders who were charged with baseless crimes in 2013 still have those charges pending against them.

A law restricting freedom of association, adopted in 2015, restricts the activities of a wide range of non-governmental organisations, including those advocating on behalf of workers. Another law adopted in 2016 places onerous constraints on those who wish to form new unions and sharply curtails the rights of union members to strike or engage in public demonstrations.

Suppliers in Cambodia provide western–based apparel and footwear companies with rapid, high-volume production at low costs. These suppliers employ more than 7,00,000 people and represent 63 per cent of the nation’s export income.

Big fashion brands are pressurising their suppliers to deliver more quickly and cheaply, which is contributing to labor abuses in factories that manufacture garments, footwear and textiles, according to a new report.

According to the report by Better Buying, a Delaware-based group that rates purchasing practices of brands and retailers, more than half of these surveyed supplied were affected by cost negotiation strategies that cut into their profits, These suppliers, in turn, put pressure on workers, leading to abuses. The impact of this on workers included excessive overtime, underpayment of benefits, insufficient wages, and use of unauthorised sub-contractors.

The index included ratings from 319 suppliers across 38 countries and measured the performance of 67 retailers and brands, including Esprit, Nike and Gap. Supplier ratings indicated that one third of buyers did not pay bulk order invoices on time. More than 20 per cent of the orders received from retailers or brands were not priced to cover the cost of social, environmental, quality and other compliance requirements.

"In face-to-face interviews conducted with 234 buyers and 72 exhibitors, Centrestage, a fashion brand-promotion, launch platform and trade exhibition organised by the Hong Kong Trade Development Council (HKTDC) noted that many industry players are optimistic about their sales prospects over the next 12 months. Around, 87 per cent buyers and 91 per cent exhibitors expected their sales to either remain steady or increase over the next 12 months. Around 58 per cent of the buyers expected the retail price of their products to remain stable in 2019 while 31 per cent expected them to increase and 11 per cent foresaw a decrease."

In face-to-face interviews conducted with 234 buyers and 72 exhibitors, Centrestage, a fashion brand-promotion, launch platform and trade exhibition organised by the Hong Kong Trade Development Council (HKTDC) noted that many industry players are optimistic about their sales prospects over the next 12 months. Around, 87 per cent buyers and 91 per cent exhibitors expected their sales to either remain steady or increase over the next 12 months. Around 58 per cent of the buyers expected the retail price of their products to remain stable in 2019 while 31 per cent expected them to increase and 11 per cent foresaw a decrease.

Around 38 per cent exhibitors expected retail price of their FOB products to increase, compared to 17 per cent noted in the 2017 survey; while only 8 per cent of them expected them to decrease versus 13 per cent last year. Casual wear attracted the highest level of endorsement from both buyers and exhibitors followed by fashion accessories.

Sourcing and production costs to increase

Around 45 per cent buyers expected their sourcing prices and production costs to increase, while 51 per cent anticipated them to remain unchanged. Only 4 per cent, however, predicted a decrease. Among exhibitors, 75 per cent expected their production costs to increase, while none expected a fall. Around 60 per cent exhibitors, among the traditional markets, Japan and Taiwan have the greatest potential for growth in 2019, followed by Hong Kong, South Korea, Australia and Pacific Islands. Chinese Mainland continued to receive the biggest endorsement as the emerging market from exhibitors followed by ASEAN countries and the Middle East.

No impact of Sino-US trade war

As apparel and made-up textiles (of HS chapters 61 through 63) are not included in any of the currently effective US 301 tariff lists, 68 per cent buyers and 71 per cent exhibitors did not expect the US-China trade war to have any significant impact the export performance of their products. While around 30 per cent of buyers and exhibitors expected a negative impact.

Optimal Product Development Strategies

Around 47 per cent respondents noted ‘crossover/joint promotions’ to be the most effective product development strategy in the coming year. This was followed by ‘celebrity or key opinion leader-endorsed fashion collections’ and ‘limited edition collections’. Among buyers, the next most important strategies were ‘brand-licensing products’ and ‘collections made from new materials’ while exhibitors believed ‘collections made from new materials’ and ‘sustainable fashion’ to be most effective product development strategies for 2019.

E-tailing to add 40 per cent of sales revenues

Exhibitors also voted for e-tailing as an effective product development strategy. On an average, e-tailing accounts for 40 per cent of the total sales revenue of fashion companies with an e-commerce presence. As per this year’s survey results, half of the respondents currently engaged in e-tailing. Of the companies currently engaged in e-tailing, 61 per cent sourced from Mainland China, followed by Hong Kong, Japan, South Korea and the ASEAN countries.

Of the companies currently not engaged in e-tailing, 29 per cent plan to start selling online within the next two years, a rise from the previous year when only 19 per cent respondents showed such an intention.

At Expoprotection Paris, to be held from November 6-8, 2018, wear2wear will establish closed-loop textile recycling across national European boundaries and economies: through intermediary Sympatex. The European textile partnership will in future collaborate with an association comprising the French government, industry and agencies on the “Green Deal”. Specifically, the parties will develop far-reaching synergies between wear2wear and FRIVEP (Filière pour le Réemploi et Recyclage des Vêtements Professionnels) in order to bring used polyester fabric back into circulation in a way that ensures value retention.

During the initial 15-month pilot phase, the French mail service, the French rail company (SNCF), the City of Paris and the national police, will collect more than 20 tonne of clothing. The aim is to reuse most of the textile raw materials in the functional clothing sector.

The findings from this will also be fed back into new tender specifications to facilitate the recycling process, aiming for a homogenous material composition wherever possible in future, starting as early as the clothing design stage. As a number of successful government projects in the past have shown, combining materials with the recyclable, PFC-free and PTFE-free Sympatex membrane made of pure polyether/ester allows the upcycled polyester fabric to subsequently be laminated again, thereby producing single-variety functional textiles that in turn are recyclable.

A new leadership team has been elected at the International Cotton Association (ICA) following its annual general meeting, which took place last month during the association’s Hong Kong 2018 trade event. Bill Ballenden, CEO, Dragontree has been appointed as new President of ICA. He will be supported by Azeez Abdul Syed, Senior Vice President, Olam Cotton as First Vice President and Alex Hsu, Managing Director, Formosa Trading Co Ltd as Second Vice President.

Newly appointees are: Pierre Chehab, Platform Head EBS, Louis Dreyfus Company Suisse SA; Shafiqul I. Sarker Sohel, Managing Director, Purbani Group and David Wookey, Director, Sterling Cotton.

Ballenden joined the cotton business in 1996 as a trainee at Ralli Brothers & Coney in Liverpool. After spending a number of years in Liverpool and a year living in Abidjan, he moved in 2001 to join The Seam to build and manage their international cotton trading platform. In 2007, he joined Louis Dreyfus Company (LDC) as a trader in Geneva. He then spent the years 2008 to 2014 managing LDC’s cotton businesses in India and China, living in Gurgaon and then Beijing, and eventually managing the Asia region out of Beijing. In 2014, Ballenden once again moved to Geneva and managed the European & Black Sea regions, China, Singapore and Australia for LDC. At the end of 2017, Ballenden left LDC to start his own company, called Dragontree, focusing on online auctions for commodities.