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In March 2018, the USTR had warned Rwanda it would lose some benefits under the African Growth and Opportunity Act (AGOA), America's flagship trade legislation for Africa, in 60 days after it increased tariffs on second-hand clothes to support its local garment industry. The row is further straining Washington's relations with Africa at a time when it is being aggressively courted by America's global competitors, not least China.
The Rwanda government is trying to attract companies targeting the export market, like US designer Kate Spade which assembles high-end handbags in Rwanda. This strategy nation has flourished elsewhere in Africa under AGOA, with duty-free exports from the continent to the US market almost quadrupling to over $1 billion since the law was enacted. The ultimatum from the office of the USTR, however, has thrown up a potential roadblock to further growth.
European cities are the preferred new destination for international retailer expansion, attracting 43 per cent of new retail brands in 2016, up from 36 per cent on the previous year.
This is attributed to European retailers redirecting their focus on expansion in their home continent rather than in locations with expensive currencies. On a city level, Hong Kong has retained its position as the world’s most popular destination for retailer expansion in 2016 attracting 87 new retailers.
Hong Kong is closely followed by London which has witnessed the second highest presence of new retailer entrants, with a total of 65 international retailers opening stores in London for the first time in 2016. London is followed by Dubai who welcomed 59 new entrants. Doha moved up six places from last year’s new entrants ranking to take fourth place with 58 new retail brands and Tokyo being the fifth most sought after market with 48 new entrants to make up the top five most targeted retail cities globally.
Paris has jumped to seventh place attracting 36 new retailers as the French capital continues to attract international retailers due to its strong tourism market and stable economy. About 33 per cent of the new retailers to Paris are specialist clothing retailers.
Maharashtra has made it mandatory for original seed producing and marketing companies to sell only one variety of Bt cotton seed with one brand name. This is an attempt to tighten vigil over Bt cotton varieties being sold in the market under different brand names. Bt cotton seeds of varieties un-approved by the Genetic Engineering Approval Committee (GEAC) were being sold in the market. Further, there were instances in which one variety of Bt cotton seed was being sold using different brand names.
After a review, the state has allowed only 370 varieties of 42 companies to be sold in the kharif 2018 season. As much as 98 per cent of the cotton area in Maharashtra is under Bt cotton varieties. These Bt cotton varieties are approved by GEAC. Till last year, apart from the original producer company, co-marketing companies also used to sell these approved varieties of Bt cotton seeds.
From now on original producer company of seeds should print in bold letters the GEAC-approved name of a variety on its packet. The original producer company can print its own brand name also. However, for one variety, there should be only one brand name. Co-marketing companies also should use the packing and label used by the original producer company. As such, henceforth, each variety will be sold with only one brand name.
In 2018, the Irish fashion industry is going international. The visual language of Irish fashion has become a global entity. The landscape is small but incredibly promising. Designers across the island are producing world-class fashion, yet few people outside Ireland own a piece of Irish fashion or can name an Irish designer. The Aran jumper, a traditional type of knit sweater, hails from the Aran Islands on the west coast of Ireland; the cable-knit design is world-renowned. The playful patterns of Orla Kiely are emblematic of Irish houseware and interior design. And, of course, there's the Tara Brooch, an iconic, seventh-century Celtic totem which now lives among other significant ancient jewelry items in Ireland's national archives.
A camaraderie exists between the pool of successful Irish designers as they often participate in collaborative events celebrating and spotlighting Irish fashion. Irish colleges are launching the careers of many future stars. Past graduates include Jill de Burca, Emma Manley and Natalie B. Coleman. There is much work being done in universities around Ireland to foster new Irish designers; the next generation of Irish creative talent is bright. However, there needs to be more support in the form of funding and grants to truly secure the future of Irish design.
For the full year Grasim’s standalone revenue was up 53 per cent compared to last year. Standalone EBITDA grew by 35 per cent. At consolidated level, revenue rose by 56 per cent and EBITDA was up by 31 per cent. On a like to like basis, the performance for the quarter and year was impressive. Standalone revenue for the quarter was up by 26 per cent (full year up by 30 per cent) and ebitda grew by 35 per cent (full year up by 14 per cent).
Net revenue for Q4 was up by 15 per cent and EBITDA by 16 per cent. For the full year net revenue was higher by 18 per cent and EBITDA by 17 per cent, driven by higher sales volume and improved average realisations with higher domestic sales.
VSF business reported its highest ever sales volume in the year, led by growth in the domestic market with intense market development efforts. The share of domestic sales in overall sales rose to 75 per cent from 69 per cent the year earlier. The number of Liva tagged garments has witnessed a ten-fold increase in the last three years. More than 3000 stores across the country are making Liva tagged garments available to customers.
Senior officials of Apparel Export Promotion Council met the finance minister Piyush Goyal and textiles minister Smiriti Irani to discuss various issues facing the industry especially the huge blockages in GST refunds since the roll out of GST and slow disbursements in RoSl.
The industry has witnessed a reduction in drawback and RoSl benefits by over 5 per cent of FoB since the pre GST period. This, coupled with the disadvantage of around 10 per cent faced by the industry vis-a-vis its competitors in the major markets like EU, due to lack of preferential access, had led to India losing out to Bangladesh and Vietnam in a big way.
HKL Magu, Chairman, Apparel Export Promotion Council expressed his gratitude for the speedy response from both ministers. He said, the FM has instructed his team to urgently identify central and state embedded taxes and work out a reimbursement mechanism. Also, the Ministry will expedite GST and ROSL refunds in a time bound manner. FM assured all possible support from his Ministry to enable exports growth and creation of jobs by the employment intensive apparel, made ups and textile industry. He said, “The industry has also assured that with our competitive position restored, we would be able to regain lost market share, further consolidate these gains and create gainful employment in shortest possible time.”
Pure London is London’s largest festival of fashion will open its door from July 22 to 24. The event offers women’s wear, men’s wear, footwear and accessories brands as well as new sections for kids wear and maternity wear and ethical brands.
The Spirit section has been re-edited this season, offering more British designers, including Elizabeth An’Marie and Amy Lynn, and exciting new international names including POL Clothing from the US, Tally Weijl from Switzerland, and Australian brand Honey and Beau.
Exciting brands in new Pure Conscious section include ethical and sustainable fashion pioneers People Tree and Skunkfunk. One such clothing line is Emme Marella featuring unique prints and contemporary separates. For summer 2019 the collection offers assorted interesting proposals in terms of prints, thanks to an eye-catching and bold mix of floral and geometric patterns.
Pure London will offer visitors a festival of fashion – bringing together a strongly edited collection of over 700 global brands, including some of the best emerging designers showcasing their latest collections in the UK for the first time. Exclusive spring/summer ’19 trend insights will be delivered by WGSN. Catwalk shows, including children’s wear, will bring forth the season’s key looks.
For three days, visitors will be immersed in the world of fashion with a host of exciting guest speakers, workshops and networking opportunities.
Since 1963, the Ermenegildo Zegna Superfine Wool Trophy has honored Australia’s best wool growers. This competition is today the oldest in the world of wool. The Vellus Aureum (Golden Fleece) Trophy was added in 2002 to celebrate the incredible advances made by Australian woolgrowers and to reward the absolute finest wool fleece produced every year.
In 2016, the finest and best fleece was recorded at an exceptional 9.9 micron, making it a still unbeaten world record. The 2018 edition marked a significant increase in the number of farms participating in the trophy: 56 farms in 2018 vs 39 farms in 2017.
The Superfine Wool Trophy was won by David and Angie Waters (Tarrangower Merinos – Hillgrove, NSW), with Allan and Carolyn Phillips (Glen Stuart – Deddington, Tasmania) and Ed and Jill Hundy (Windradeen Mudgee -Pyramul, NSW) taking second and third place respectively.
The winners, David and Angie Waters, took first place for the second year in a row while the Phillips and Hundy families have been among the winners for the last six editions. Mulgowan (Amiens-QLD), Gowrie (Guyra-NSW), Wildford (Tenterden-NSW) were for the first time in the final ranking. The winners of the Vellus Aureum Trophy were Ross and Rebecca Blake from Allandale-Walcha NSW. David and Susan Rowbottom from Rowensville – St. Helens -VIC and Annie Hutchinson from Kentucky Station- Kentucky NSW were respectively second and third in the competition.
Denim is emerging from its purely masculine look to reveal more subtle and sensual fabrics with no gender attached. The result is high-end fabrications intended for tailored trousers, jackets and outerwear. There’s fluidity between fashion and denim. Whereas denim tends to dwell on the past—be it heritage work wear or nostalgic ’90s—the new season has shades of blue, novelty textures and a focus on how denim can adapt to its new niche market, including sport, street wear and evening.
Wool aspects can be visible such as natural-looking surfaces with irregular yarns or hidden as brushed wool on the inside of a jacket. Pinstripes, herringbones, Prince of Wales check and classic window pane patterns play up the tailoring story but are updated in blue.
To contrast, relaxed heavy denim inspired by street style is gaining momentum in the men’s and women’s categories. The trend is urban, graphic and inventive. Fabrications are made with thicker yarns to add softness and fullness to silhouettes. Nonchalant styling like cozy knits and cocoon-like shapes are key. Techniques that pump-up volume, such as smocking placed on shoulders to create an exaggerated ruffle, are made simply to surprise. Color blocking and contrast stitching add a youthful feeling.
India’s cotton yarn imports stabililsed at 2.77 per cent to around 3.2 million tonne in March 2018 as against 1.69 per cent in February 2018. Pakistan witnessed the highest growth in March 2018 with 32 per cent to reach 3.5 million tonne. China imported 2.34 million tonne in 2015, which was the peak of the over five years. And then declined in 2016 and 2017, its imports were both less than 2 million ton. In the first quarter of 2018, China imported 460,000 ton of cotton yarn, declining by 13.24 per cent year-on-year.
Imports for Vietnam also slowed during the period. The country’s imports had stabilised at 5.82 per cent in March from 3.38 per cent in February 2018. In terms of volumes, the country’s imports declined to 3.3 million ton in February 2018 from 6.8 million tonne in January 2018 and again increased to 5.8 million tonne in March 2018.
