In spite of the tariffs, US retailers continue to import Chinese goods to meet consumer demand. Imports at the nation’s major retail container ports are hitting their stride and are expected to surpass the record levels notched last year. One reason is that retailers cannot quickly or easily change their sourcing. It is a different matter, though, that tariffs will eventually mean higher prices for American consumers.

Cargo arriving at the major US ports in August was up 3.4 per cent over last year. September imports are expected to rise 2.7 per cent and October will see a 4.3 per cent jump. Cargo arrivals are expected to be up 2.3 per cent in November, and December seeing a four per cent uptick.

The first half of 2018 saw cargo-container traffic up 5.1 per cent over the first half of 2017, while import cargo volume for all of 2018 is predicted to increase 4.4 per cent over last year. Last month, the US imposed an additional ten per cent tariff on imports from China. Those tariffs could increase to 25 per cent at the beginning of the year. The third round of tariffs is now in place, and further tariffs have been threatened.

Bangladesh and Sri Lanka will collaborate in boosting apparel exports to Europe. One possible area of cooperation is export of some products to the EU through Sri Lanka for better prices. Another is value addition in export products. Now Bangladesh’s exporters use Singapore port to export goods and it takes 20 to 22 days but if they use Colombo port the lead time would be reduced by three or four days.

Relations between Bangladesh and Sri Lanka are improving rapidly. Their bilateral trade is valued at $142 million and has the potential to be boosted. Even though goods are traded at a significant level, emphasis will be given to increase the trade volume and further diversify the product range benefitting both countries. Bangladesh is also a country that exports apparel to the global market but has not been able to secure GSP Plus that Sri Lanka currently enjoys. Hence, Sri Lanka is able to export apparel to the European market at cheaper rates than Bangladesh can.

Sri Lanka imports from Bangladesh pharmaceutical products, electrical machinery and equipment, apparel and clothing accessories, textile fibers, chemicals, cellular phones and bicycle parts. Sri Lanka exports to Bangladesh textiles and textile articles, enzymes, chemicals, minerals, plastics, rubber products, paper products and tea.

Vendors showcased the latest trends in textiles at the L.A. Textile show at the California Market Center in Los Angeles. The show, held from Oct 03-05, 2018, featured everyone from established industry veterans and new players who were planning to launch a brand, designers from every branding stage.

Lawyer-turned-designer Brennan Manuel, who launched his brand 6AM Brennan Manuel four years ago, found fabric resources during his first time at the show, particularly from Japanese brands such as Hokkah Co. Ltd. and Uni Textile Co. Ltd.

At the Farmingdale booth for N.Y.’s Philips-Boyne Corporation, its owner David Haber noticed a shift in the fabrics from men’s shirts to casualwear.

Alongwith established brands and designers, several newcomers were also planning to launch their brands. Former New York Giants wide receiver Chris Harper is planning to launch a men’s ready-to-wear line in Los Angeles. Another first-time attendee, Jacqueline Wells of Akron, Ohio–based M/D Clothiers, will launch a women’s contemporary line.

"Prabir Jana, President, TANTU, in his welcome address said the theme was chosen based on audience suggestion – the technology of shirt making – the core apparel area. He explained the uniqueness of the seminar where information and knowledge is extracted from experts to maximise value to the audience. It’s an interactive seminar where audience also participate in the discussion. The maiden initiative of TANTU was to offer scholarships to two students from its alma mater to attend the annual seminar, which would help them get exposed to the new vistas of knowledge and network with industry professionals."

The 6th edition of TANTU seminar held on September 15, 2018 at India International Centre, New Delhi focused on ‘The Art of Shirt Manufacturing’. The seminar was attended by industry experts, academicians, professionals and officials from across India and countries like: Indonesia, Bangladesh, Romania and the US. The seminar discussed technical and aesthetic aspects of shirt making.

Prabir Jana, President, TANTU, in his welcome address said the theme was chosen based on audience suggestion – the technology of shirt making – the core apparel area. He explained the uniqueness of the seminar where information and knowledge is extracted from experts to maximise value to the audience. It’s an interactive seminar where audience also participate in the discussion. The maiden initiative of TANTU was to offer scholarships to two students from its alma mater to attend the annual seminar, which would help them get exposed to the new vistas of knowledge and network with industry professionals.

Technologies to increase the bottom-line

Keynote speaker, Ram Sareen emphasised on fits in apparel products and on-demand manufacturing. With case studies, he revealed how the global industry is using technologies like 3D simulation and pattern printing to shrink supply chain lead time and increase bottom line. He also emphasised on the importance of on-demand garment manufacturing and micro factory as the future business model.

Solutions for garment fusing problems

The theme for the first panel discussion was the art of shirt making. The discussion began with the purpose of having a pleat at the across back. For aesthetic purpose pleats can be added in various ways. And for functional purpose it helps in providing tolerance for movement. The panel discussed features and attributes of shirts and its functional and aesthetic aspects. Kamaljit Singh, Business Development Manager, Freudenberg India, talked about how interlining makes wearers more comfortable wearing a shirt. His company has developed interlinking for specific market segment, an application on a white shirt, where they have developed contamination free interlining with the combination of man-made fibre.

Laszlo of timeSSD emphasised on the importance of benchmark performance when factories measuring and analysing productivity and efficiency data. With timeSSD system, one can easily establish the standard time of sewing operations without prior training. Anshuman Dash, H&H talked about the technology they use for fusing machine that can be used for variable thickness. He highlighted some of the technical features and parameters of latest fusing machines.

The second panel discussion was on ‘Technology of Shirt Making’, where Ramaswamy from Veit shared garment fusing technologies and the possible solutions of many common problems faced during fusing garment components.

Affects of changing market dynamics

The final panel discussion was on the business of shirt making. It focused on the inability of India to secure a prominent place in shirt making industry in spite of excelling in fabric, garment production and technology. It also discussed how change in market dynamics from large orders to small orders with various fashion elements has affected the industry.

Roopak Malik, Director, Textile Sourcing blamed the delivery system along with the costing. However, Gaurav Kumar, Marketing Director of Aquarelle said profit-oriented mind-set of export houses is the culprit. Mridul Dasgupta, GM, Macy’s merchandising group believes value addition and design driven production to be India’s stronghold. Pallab Banerjee, Strategic Advisor of Pearl Global discussed about the advantages of strategic sourcing. The seminar concluded on the note that with proper product development and a change of mindset, India can still make a mark in the global textile business.

"The five-day-long 46th edition of IHGF Delhi Fair -Autumn 2018 is a B2B mega show organized by the Export Promotion Council for Handicrafts (EPCH) under one-roof spread over in 1,90,000 sq. mtrs. area. IHGF – Delhi Fair offer an exclusive passage to the visitors to India to source the distinctive, fascinating and inspirational products of home, lifestyle, fashion and textiles which are utilitarian, aesthetic, creative, decorative, traditional, socially symbolic and significant said Shri O.P. Prahladka, Chairman – EPCH."

Greater Noida – 12TH October, 2018 - The state-of-the-art exhibition venue India Expo Centre & Mart at Greater Noida will be abuzz with activities when overseas buyers from across the globe descend on the venue for sourcing from the world’s largest handicrafts fair IHGF-Delhi Fair Autumn scheduled to be held from October 14-18, 2018.

The five-day-long 46th edition of IHGF Delhi Fair -Autumn 2018 is a B2B mega show organized by the Export Promotion Council for Handicrafts (EPCH) under one-roof spread over in 1,90,000 sq. mtrs. area. IHGF – Delhi Fair offer an exclusive passage to the visitors to India to source the distinctive, fascinating and inspirational products of home, lifestyle, fashion and textiles which are utilitarian, aesthetic, creative, decorative, traditional, socially symbolic and significant said Shri O.P. Prahladka, Chairman – EPCH.

For the first time, over 3200 Manufacturers and exhibitors from across the Country will put on display over 2000+ product lines, designs, styles, raw material base and concepts to the overseas buyers from 110 countries informed Shri Prahladka.

Further elaborating Shri Prahladka said that IHGF Delhi Fair Autumn will have the most extensive range of handcrafted products like Home textiles, Furnishings & Made ups, Carpets & Rugs, Floor Coverings, Houseware, Decoratives, Tableware, Furniture, Garden & Outdoor, Bathroom Accessories, Spa and Wellness, Lamps & Lighting, Christmas & Festive Décor, Handmade paper items, Fashion Jewellery, Accessories, bags, clutches, purses and garments and Facts & Figures etc. It will mainly focus on eco-friendly products made out of a variety of base material like wood, metal, glass, cane and bamboo, textiles made of natural fibers, wool, silk, jute, coir, stone, leather, terracotta, lac, dry flowers etc. The products on display are handcrafted catering to all segments of customers be it low, middle to top end customers. The range of products is large, varied and distinct.

Shri Rakesh Kumar, Executive Director – EPCH said that IHGF-Delhi Fair has not only enabled Indian exporters in large numbers to participate in the show and secure orders but has also acquired the reputation of ultimate sourcing destination amongst the overseas buying community and ‘most effective marketing medium’ amongst Indian exporting community. IHGF also plays a vital role in increasing the foreign exchange earnings.

The overseas buyers from over 110 countries including Argentina, Australia, Austria, Belgium, Brazil, Brunei, Bulgaria, Cambodia, Costa Rica, Cyprus, Czech Republic, Canada, Chile, China, Denmark, Egypt, Finland, France, Germany, Greece, Ghana, Hong Kong, Hungry, Iceland, Indonesia, Iran, Italy, Israel, Japan, Jamaica, Kenya, Korea, Kuwait, Malaysia, Mexico, Mongolia, Morocco, Myanmar, Namibia, Nepal, New Zealand, Norway, Oman, Palestine, Panama, Paraguay, Peru, Philippines, Poland, Portugal, Qatar, Romania, Russia, South Africa, Slovakia, Spain, Sweden, Switzerland, Saudi Arabia, Serbia, Singapore, South Korea, Spain, SRI Lanka, Sweden,, Switzerland, Taiwan, The Netherlands, Tanzania, Tunisia, Thailand, Lebanon, Turkey, Uganda, USA, UAE, UK, Vietnam, Yemen and Zimbabwe and many more will be visiting the show. The buyers visiting the show includes wholesalers, distributors, chain stores, departmental stores, retailers, mail order companies, brand owners, buying houses and designers & forecasters.

This year buyers from countries like Benin, Fiji, Latvia, Rwanda and Dominican Republic will also join this fair to source their requirement.

Major departmental stores who have already confirmed their visit to the show include Herold, Deetjen & Meyer, Hofmeister Bietigheim GMBH & Co, Otto, Lambert GMBH, Germany, Kapimex BV, Only Natural, Riviera Maison, Lifestyle Home Collection, The Netherlands, MRP Home, South Africa, Lifestyle, United Arab Emirates, D. Sky Home, Oscar & Clothilde, The Moshi, Sweden, Ross, Midwest CBK LLC, TJX, Dillards, Anthropologie, Napa Home and Garden, C&F Enterprises, Kalalou, HEB, Accent Décor, Two’s Company Inc. USA, Fox Home, Israel, Graham & Green, The Libra Company, London Ornaments, UK, Ateliers C&D Davoy, Vyrillus, Caravane, France, ILOT Interiors SL, Zara Home, Spain, Torre & Tagus Designs, Neuvo Living, Canada, Tomo Corporation, Francfranc Corpn, Japan, Redtag, UAE, Perfect Home, Norway and many more.

The show will also have visitors from major Indian Retail/online brands like Pepperfry, Fabindia, Flipkart, WestSide, Shoppers Stop, Pipal, Bombay Dyeing, Oberoi hotels & Resorts, Paytm, William E Cornor & Associates, TQM Global Buying, HCL and many more.

Mr. Kumar, Further informed that the five days show will also witness knowledge seminars on varied topics such as Enabling B2C exports through online channels, Vriksh –Timber Legality Assessment and Verification Scheme, Learn forecasting techniques to safeguard against currency fluctuations, Goods & Services Tax, filing returns and claiming refunds, Targeting overseas buyers, Trends & forecast, Team building in an organisation and necessary compliance for Handicrafts sector.

Theme pavilion of North Eastern Handicrafts and mega cluster Jodhpur will be one of the attractions for the visiting overseas buying community. Fashion shows and ramp walks by models adorning fashion jewellery, accessories and utility items sourced from exhibitors of the show will add glamour to this congregation of exhibitors and overseas buyers.

Vriksh Timber Legality Assessment & Certification Scheme which was launched by EPCH in 2013 has over 500 companies under its ambit and 269 vriksh compliant companies are participating in this edition of the show showing our commitment and resolve towards offering legally procured wooden handicrafts items to the buying community said Mr. Kumar, ED – EPCH.

For the first time in the memory of Late Shri P.N. Suri, founder Chairman of the Export Promotion Council for Handicrafts, P.N. Suri memorial awards for best design and display in metal and wood category will also be distributed during the show alongwith other Ajai Shankar Memorial awards. The IHGF-Delhi fair has played a vital role in increasing exports of handicrafts from the Country. The handicrafts exports was to the tune of Rs. 751.67 crores in 1993-94 when the fair was initiated. The Handicrafts exports during the year 2017-18 was Rs.23,029.36 crores. However, the exports of handicrafts during first six months of the current financial year 2018-19 is Rs. 12953.25 crores [prov] with overall increase of 6.58% in rupee terms over the previous year said Shri Rakesh Kumar, ED – EPCH.

"With over 80 per cent of the visitors coming from outside France, Messe Frankfurt France’s trade shows remain the all- important event for the global fashion industries. These shows witness around 5 per cent visitors from Italy, 7 per cent from Russia and Canada, 16 per cent from Switzerland, 17 per cent from India, 15 per cent from South Korea, 14 per cent from Lebanon, 8 per cent from Argentina and Mauritius, 5 per cent from Colombia, 11 per cent from Tunisia."

With over 80 per cent of the visitors coming from outside France, Messe Frankfurt France’s trade shows remain the all- important event for the global fashion industries. These shows witness around 5 per cent visitors from Italy, 7 per cent from Russia and Canada, 16 per cent from Switzerland, 17 per cent from India, 15 per cent from South Korea, 14 per cent from Lebanon, 8 per cent from Argentina and Mauritius, 5 per cent from Colombia, 11 per cent from Tunisia.

Gathering of world weavers, manufacturers

Texworld Denim and Texworld Paris featured over 1,058 exhibitors, the show dedicated to denim benefited from a steady stream of enthusiastic and attentive visitors. The show brought together weavers and denim manufacturers, from major countries such as China, Bangladesh, Pakistan, Turkey and India, as well as from Canada.

Never out of fashion, denim manifested in all its forms, with some suppliers making appreciable efforts in material, green manufacturing processes, while observing sustainable social standards. Pakistan exhibitor Master Textile Mills, for instance, prided itself on the environmental friendliness of its entire production chain, from the yarn to the trousers and jackets.

Texworld Denim remains firmly connected to its subject and the collections of fabrics or finished products on display were taken up by buyers, either as is, for replenishments or capsule collections, or as an excellent addition for the fashion collections that are in making.

Some major American denim labels were also spotted at the stands. Top Chinese operator Foison Apparel describes the attendance as ‘the best’, as did weavers Zhejiang Sansen Textile and their commercial director, Xiaodan Wu, who also added that the show was excellent with serious, specialist.

Benefits to professional buyers

Located at the intersection between Texworld and Apparel Sourcing, Texworld Denim Paris attracted a professional audience and thus benefited from visits by fabric buyers. The trends forum and corresponding catwalk show completed this sense of general satisfaction by presenting the best in skills and manufacturing capabilities from exhibitors. Texworld Denim Paris is in the process of introducing a different way of looking at denim. Next Texworld Denim Paris is scheduled for February 11-14, 2019, Paris Le Bourget

"Being publicly associated with Muslims, whether as designers, models, consumers or influencers was considered as a big taboo for the fashion industry; especially after 9/11 attacks on the United States. But now, a connection to Muslims is seen as an asset with global fashion brands, from luxury to high street, running promotions for Ramadan and Eid. In London especially, luxury retailers gear up for the "Harrods Hajj," a seasonal pre-Ramadan influx of affluent Gulf shoppers. Fashion brands even create a capsule collection from their existing ranges. A specialist infrastructure for the fashion-industry is growing globally with Muslim designers showcasing their work at the proliferating number of modest fashion weeks and fairs around the world."

Being publicly associated with Muslims, whether as designers, models, consumers or influencers was considered as a big taboo for the fashion industry; especially after 9/11 attacks on the United States. But now, a connection to Muslims is seen as an asset with global fashion brands, from luxury to high street, running promotions for Ramadan and Eid. In London especially, luxury retailers gear up for the "Harrods Hajj," a seasonal pre-Ramadan influx of affluent Gulf shoppers. Fashion brands even create a capsule collection from their existing ranges. A specialist infrastructure for the fashion-industry is growing globally with Muslim designers showcasing their work at the proliferating number of modest fashion weeks and fairs around the world.

In mainstream luxury sector, online portal Net-a-Porter forged ahead with an Eid edition in 2015. Last year, new Dubai-based modest e-retailer The Modist persuaded high-end designers including London-based Mary Katrantzou, to produce exclusive modest designs. Use of fashion imagery has also changed. A decade ago, modest clothing brands and magazines avoided showing faces -- or the human form at all -- in deference to some interpretations of Islamic teaching. Today , Muslim models wearing the headscarf, or hijab, are regular features in star in ad campaigns and on the catwalk.

A religious touch to fashion

Visible religious diversity is a part of the industry's belated wake-up to its lack of ethnic and racial diversity, as well as to body size and to gender and sexual identities. Now, religion is being added into the mix. For instance, cosmetics company CoverGirl, which once paved the way on racial and sexual diversity with brand ambassadors like Queen Latifah and Ellen DeGeneres, in January 2017, appointed American hijabi beauty blogger Nura Afia. Sephora, too, has showcased hijabis in cosmetics marketing for its Fall 2017 campaign. The diversity of the Muslim population offers a double win for brands seeking to make visible their commitment to all forms of social diversity.

This rising affinity towards the muslim community has led to not only more people belonging to the religion entering the fashion industry, but also established names being more out about their Muslim heritage. Supermodel sisters Gigi and Bella Hadid have associated themselves publicly with Islamic causes. Bella has openly identified herself as Muslim and spoken of their Palestinian father's encouragement that they should be proud of their dual heritage. Gigi has shared on social media her cultural participation in Muslim festivals such as Eid with her then-boyfriend, Zayn Malik.

Emergence of the global Muslim consumer

With "home-grown" designers from within the Muslim community now entering the mainstream market; competition from global brands – be it Dolce & Gabbana's abayas or Nike's Pro Hijab – has become more marked as stakes have become higher. A global modest fashion infrastructure of competing modest fashion weeks, fairs, and expos has grown out of what were once low-key, community-run gatherings. This transition from avoiding Muslim consumers to wooing them has been fostered by professional marketers who have identified Muslims as a global consumer segment.

In early 2018, British retailer Marks & Spencer (M&S) decided to include "modest outfits" as an online search category and received quite a few negative responses. When M&S started to sell burkinis two years before, the controversy was about the garment. This time, the garments -- selected from existing lines -- were not the problem: it was the terminology.

Driven by search engine optimisation, rather than religious ideology lots of women commenters welcomed longer sleeves or higher necklines as suitable for occupation or age. M&S also confirmed that "'modest fashion' is an increasingly popular search term." As mainstream fashion brands continue to chase Muslim consumers, the market mature brands will need to listen to marketing experts who advise them to think internationally but act locally.

Mexico is a major market for apparel, man-made and cotton textiles. However, India’s share in is only 3 per cent. Owing to availability of raw material and infrastructure, Indian firms have a potential to increase their market share in all the categories. Over the last five years, Mexico’s total textile and apparel exports declined at a CAGR of -2 per cent to touch $6.43 billion in 2017, while imports increased at a CAGR of 1 per cent to reach $10.2 billion. It remained the 18th largest importer of textile and apparel products globally, and its textile and apparel trade deficit was $3.79 billion in 2017.

Man-made textile is the largest imported category in Mexico, representing 38 per cent of its total textile and apparel imports (2017). This is followed by apparel and cotton textiles with a share of 33 per cent and 12 per cent respectively. India was the third largest supplier of textile and apparel products to Mexico in 2017. Its exports of T&A to Mexico stood at $0.32 billion in 2017. In fact, India’s exports witnessed an increase of 2 per cent over the last five years.

All Pakistan Textile Mills Association (APTMA) plans to reopen a hundred former mills in Punjab. The decision was borne out of the promised Rs 44 billion subsidy for exporters assured by Finance Minister Asad Umar in his supplementary budget speech.

The subsidy will be derived from a massive regulatory hike in gas prices which has raised the price by 40 per cent from Rs.600 per million British thermal unit (mmBtu) to Rs 780 mmBtu for commercial consumers. The plan to create a new category for those industrial consumers who are registered manufacturers or exporters of one of five zero-rated sectors is to charge them the unchanged rate of Rs.600 per unit.

These five export sectors would be textiles including jute, leather goods, carpets, surgical tools, and sports goods business which the government of Pakistan intends to capitalise on by offering them internationally competitive gas rates.

Maharashtra has sent notices to nearly 60 cotton seed companies seeking a compensation of Rs 1,050 crores for losses incurred by farmers owing to sub-standard seeds that were prone to pest attack. A total of 14 lakh farmers applied to the state seeking compensation from the companies, of which hearing in nearly 10 lakh cases have been completed.

Last year, farmers across Maharashtra reported large areas under cotton affected by pink bollworm, a major cotton pest. Following the pest attack, the government adopted three ways to provide compensation to farmers: through crop insurance, by seeking compensation under the national disaster relief fund and also by making seed companies a part of the process.

Cotton farmers in the state are facing a crisis. Large-scale use of genetically modified or Bt cotton seeds that are failing to keep pests at bay is one of the main reasons for the crisis. This issue gains further significance as in Maharashtra nearly 96 per cent of the cotton crop cultivated in the state is by using Bt seeds. The use of an illegal variety of Bt seeds, herbicide tolerant seeds, has some part to play in the crisis. Seed companies have a month to reply to the notice. However they can move court against the order.