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The Natural Fibre Connect (NFC) conference, held at the Città Studi Conference Centre in Biella from September 19 to 20, 2024, emerged as a vital platform for stakeholders in the natural fiber industry to discuss and collaborate on strategies for sustainable growth and innovation. The event brought together growers, processors, brands, NGOs, and certifying bodies to address pressing challenges and explore opportunities in the alpaca, cashmere, mohair, and wool sectors.
The conference kicked off with three days of immersive mill visits, providing attendees a firsthand look into the intricate processes involved in transforming raw animal fibers into high-quality textiles. Tour stops included prominent companies like the Schneider Group, Lanificio Cerruti, and Zegna Baruffa Lane Borgosesia, offering a valuable glimpse into the latest technological advancements and sustainable practices adopted by industry leaders.
Sustainability at the forefront
The conference emphasized the critical importance of sustainable practices throughout the natural fiber supply chain. The Sustainable Fibre Alliance (SFA) and the Good Cashmere Standard provided updates on their efforts to promote animal welfare, environmental responsibility, and social equity. Panel discussions highlighted the need for greater transparency and traceability to ensure that natural fibers are produced and processed in a responsible manner. It maybe noted that as per SPF Annual Report, their membership has grown by 20 per cent in the past year, reflecting the increasing commitment of brands and retailers to sustainable sourcing.
Focus on innovation and collaboration
Stakeholders showcased innovative technologies and approaches to enhance the quality, performance, and sustainability of natural fibers. The need for innovation and technological advancements to enhance efficiency and reduce environmental impact was a recurring theme. The conference fostered collaboration between growers, processors, and brands to develop new products and expand market opportunities. The mill visits provided valuable insights into the latest manufacturing processes and techniques.
Empowering growers
A dedicated panel session provided a platform for growers from Australia, South Africa, and other producing countries to voice their concerns and aspirations. Discussions centered on the importance of fair pricing, access to markets, and the need for collaborative efforts to address the challenges faced by growers at the grassroots level.
Highlighting trends and challenges
The Textile Exchange reports the global market for preferred fibers, which include alpaca, cashmere, mohair, and wool, grew by 10 per cent in 2023. The conference thus addressed the challenges posed by volatile market conditions, shifting consumer preferences, and competition from synthetic fibers. Speakers emphasized the importance of building consumer awareness and appreciation for the unique qualities and benefits of natural fibers. The event also highlighted the need for greater collaboration across the industry to promote the value and sustainability of natural fibers.
Thus NFC 2024 served as a powerful reminder of the interconnectedness of the natural fiber industry and the urgent need for collective action to ensure its sustainable future. The conference fostered a spirit of collaboration and innovation, setting the stage for a more responsible and ethical approach to the production and consumption of alpaca, cashmere, mohair, and wool.
Archroma, a leader in specialty chemicals for sustainable solutions, has launched ‘Planet Conscious+,’ a comprehensive roadmap aimed at helping brands and mills advance their sustainability initiatives.
Mark Garrett, CEO of Archroma, emphasized the importance of adapting to growing global challenges such as climate change, economic shifts, and geopolitical pressures. He explained that the ‘Planet Conscious +’ initiative represents the company's commitment to realigning its vision to address these issues and drive meaningful change in the industry.
The initiative includes six pillars, four of which were previously introduced: Super Systems+, Safe Edge+, One Way+, and Color Management+. These focus on end-to-end solutions, cleaner chemistry, resource savings, and enhanced color management.
The newly introduced pillars, Innovation+ and Communication+, emphasize the company’s commitment to developing innovative solutions and promoting transparency across the value chain. Archroma’s global research teams are driving innovation to improve environmental impact, while the company ensures stakeholders can communicate their sustainability efforts confidently.
Paul Cowell, VP of Innovation at Archroma, emphasized the critical role of accountability in driving innovation. He noted that the company provides tools enabling brands to measure their environmental impact and confidently share their sustainability achievements, supported by verifiable data.
Archroma’s ‘Planet Conscious +’ solidifies its dedication to transforming the apparel and textile industry through sustainable innovation.
A new collaboration between Monforts, BW Converting, and Archroma aims to revolutionize textile finishing through sustainable solutions. The partnership integrates Monforts’ dyeing and finishing technology, BW Converting’s Baldwin TexCoat G4 digital spray technology, and Archroma’s advanced chemical formulations to reduce resource consumption while enhancing productivity.
The collaboration will support textile dyeing and finishing manufacturers by improving product quality and performance while optimizing the finishing process. In the latter half of 2024, Monforts will install Baldwin's TexCoat G4 digital spray unit on a stenter frame at its Advanced Technology Center (ATC) in Monchengladbach, Germany. This addition complements the ATC's existing capabilities, including full Montex stenter finishing lines and a Thermex range for continuous dyeing of woven fabrics, allowing customers to test and refine textiles in real-world conditions.
The Baldwin TexCoat G4 system modernizes traditional pad-dry-cure finishing by precisely applying chemistry only where needed, significantly cutting water, energy, and chemical use by up to 50 per cent. This precision technology, coupled with Archroma’s specialty chemicals, improves efficiency and fabric quality.
According to Monforts Junior Technologist Saskia Kuhlen, the TexCoat G4 installation will play a crucial role in advancing textile innovation at the ATC. Michael Schuhmann of Archroma added that this partnership will help manufacturers achieve energy and water savings while boosting production standards.
Rick Stanford of Baldwin emphasized the significance of this collaboration, noting that combining the expertise of the three companies will bring transformative change to the textile finishing sector, reducing environmental impact while enhancing operational output. Expansion into continuous spray dye applications is also on the horizon for the partnership.
China's Commerce Ministry has launched an investigation into PVH Corp, the parent company of brands like Tommy Hilfiger and Calvin Klein, for alleged trade rule violations related to a boycott of products from Xinjiang. The ministry's announcement follows accusations that the Chinese government detains mostly Muslim ethnic groups in the region, a claim Beijing denies.
The investigation centers on accusations that PVH has unreasonably avoided Xinjiang cotton, potentially harming Chinese businesses and infringing on national interests. China has faced criticism from Western consumers and governments regarding human rights violations in Xinjiang, while simultaneously retaliating against companies expressing concern over forced labor in the area.
In response, PVH stated that it adheres to laws and regulations in all markets, including US government policies regarding the Xinjiang region. The ministry's inquiry falls under China's ‘Unreliable Entities List,’ a mechanism aimed at countering foreign sanctions. PVH is expected to provide details within 30 days about any discriminatory practices regarding Xinjiang-related products over the past three years.
British Wool reports a stronger market for wool, with prices reaching their highest in four years. Auction prices have risen by 20 per cent since the start of the season, increasing by 17p per kilo, or approximately 40p per fleece.
CEO Andrew Hogley expressed optimism about the price improvement across all core wool grades. He credits better yields from fleeces, with less dirt and grease due to consistent rain, for supporting price hikes.
British Wool's efforts to boost demand include collaborating with over 160 brand partners through its licensee scheme and investing in Nexgen Tree Shelters to bring biodegradable wool-based tree shelters to market, reducing plastic use and promoting mountain wool.
To further stimulate demand, a ‘Shaun the Sheep’ marketing campaign targets wool carpet sales in the UK, covering more than 2,000 retailers.
Additionally, 873 shearers and wool handlers were trained this year, with nearly 700 earning prestigious Blue, Bronze, Silver, or Gold Seals.
Hogley is confident that the recent price increases are sustainable, with further gains anticipated. British Wool's depots and drop-off points remain operational, ready to receive wool from producers.
Woolmark has introduced its latest global campaign, ‘Wear Wool, Not Waste,’ emphasizing the environmental advantages of wool as a natural, renewable, biodegradable fiber. This initiative coincides with new legislative measures aimed at combating throwaway fashion, primarily driven by cheap synthetic alternatives.
Synthetic fibers, introduced less than 200 years ago, are projected to constitute 73 per cent of global fiber production by 2030, with polyester garments enduring in landfills for over 200 years. The campaign features a striking 60-second film depicting a zombie invasion of synthetic clothing, symbolizing the lasting impact of these materials on the planet.
John Roberts, Managing Director of Woolmark, emphasizes that ‘Wear Wool, Not Waste’ goes beyond a typical marketing campaign; it serves as an urgent appeal for both consumers and the industry to rethink their fiber choices. He highlights that Merino wool provides a versatile, biodegradable, and long-lasting solution that is in harmony with nature.
A key focus of the campaign is consumer education. Research reveals that one in three individuals seldom check fabric composition when shopping online. Woolmark aims to highlight the benefits of wool over fossil fuel-based synthetics, noting that wool garments are three times more likely to be donated compared to other major fibers.
Woolmark is also amplifying its ‘Filter by Fabric’ initiative, urging the industry to adopt transparent fabric labeling and improve e-commerce filters. Launched last year, this initiative has received pledges from various industry bodies and global brands, reinforcing Woolmark's commitment to positioning wool as a sustainable solution in fashion.
To capitalise on the opportunities presented by the current political instability in Bangladesh, Indian textile companies need to first focus on skills development and address labor shortages, says KR Nagarajan, Founder and Chairman, Ramraj Cotton.
Emphasising on the current skills gap in the industry, particularly garment production, Nagarajan says, despite automation modernising areas such as spinning, weaving, and dyeing, processes like designing, cutting, sewing, and finishing continue to rely on human labor.
The garment sector lacks skilled workforce, adds Nagarajan. With many workers being migrants, most of them often lack the necessary expertise. Though some manufacturers invest in training, others do not. This disparity makes it difficult to scale up production efficiently. He therefore calls for a greater investment in skill training from both central and state governments to address this issue.
Drawing comparisons with Bangladesh and China, Nagarajan opines, India should follow a similar path by addressing labor shortages through skill development. This would also help combat unemployment in the country, he adds further.
A part of ENES Textile Mills, Ramraj Cotton recently opened a new store in Jayanagar, Bengaluru, and plans to add 15 more stores by March 2025. The company aims to expand its presence in the North, East, and West of India besides increasing its international reach. Currently exporting to Sri Lanka, Singapore, and Malaysia, Ramraj Cotton plans to enter the UAE market.
However, before embarking on an international expansion, Ramraj Cotton aims to become a pan-India brand over the next two years, adds Nagarajan. The company currently has 304 stores across India besides production units in Tiruppur, Erode, Salem and Madhurai.
Sales of fashion items made from the Suede material are rising in South Korea with consumers eagerly embracing the unique leather made from the soft underside of animal skin.
According to the fashion industry, search for suede items has rose across multiple fashion platforms with fashion-forward shoppers quickly snapping up these trending pieces.
From Sep 01-18, 2024, fashion platform W Concept reported a 700 per cent increase in sales of suede jackets and bags compared to the same period last year. Suede-related searches on the platform also increased by 488 per cent. Popular products in demand include suede jackets from brands like Unedit and le917, and suede bags from Elbategev.
Customers are gravitating toward unique colors, with shades like pink and brown seeing increased popularity, says a representative from W Concept.
Kakao Style’s ZigZag platform also experienced a similar growth with searches for suede bags spiking by 1,496 per cent and sales rising by 264 per cent compared to last year. Suede jackets followed suit, with searches up by 328 per cent and sales increasing by 64 percent.
Another major fashion platform, Ably also reported significant gains, with searches and sales of suede bags both increasing by 600 per cent between Sept 1 and 15. The platform also saw a 30 per cent rise in boot searches, with sales increasing by 350 per cent, while searches for suede jacket grew by 240 per cent and sales increased by 80 per cent. Bestsellers on Ably included Slow and End’s Rento suede boots and Highclassic’s suede crop jackets paired with tennis skirts.
One of South Korea's largest online fashion retailers, Musinsa also noted a 342 per cent Y-o-Y rise in suede-related searches. Searches for suede bag alone rose by 456 per cent.
Musinsa’s women's fashion platform, 29CM, recorded an 812 per cent increase in users searching for suede products.
This growing enthusiasm for suede aligns with the rise of the ‘demure look, a key trend for the fall/winter season characterized by understated elegance and minimal embellishments. Luxurious materials like suede are playing a central role in this trend, helping outfits stand out with their refined, tactile appeal.
As the US Bureau of Labor Statistics prepares to release its Annual Consumer Expenditure Survey next week, the data is expected to confirm what many Americans are already experiencing: financial hardship. Over 50 per cent of US households are likely to have seen their after-tax income drop not only below 2022 levels but also below 2021 and 2020 levels. This decline comes after a period of pandemic stimulus subsidies, which artificially boosted incomes in previous years.
The struggling majority
For over half of US households, 2023 will mark the first year since the pandemic without any Covid stimulus subsidies. Pre-tax incomes for those earning under $70,000 annually saw little change in recent years. However, after-tax incomes increased significantly due to stimulus checks. With subsidies gone, a sharp drop in after-tax income is anticipated, highlighting the struggle many families now face. Despite this widespread financial strain, the US economy continues to show strength. This resilience is attributed to two key groups: high-income households and Gen Z & Millennials.
Companies like Dollar General and Dollar Tree have already noted a shift in consumer behavior, with customers increasingly "cash strapped" and opting for cheaper alternatives. The upcoming BLS survey is expected to show a sharp decline in after-tax income, particularly compared to 2021 when stimulus checks were still being distributed.
The spending power of the young and affluent
Despite the financial challenges faced by many Americans, the US economy remains surprisingly strong. This resilience can be attributed to two key groups: high-income households and young adults, particularly Gen Z and millennials.
High-income households, representing about 17.5 per cent of all US households, have largely been unaffected by the economic downturn. Their spending has remained relatively constant, even as they shift their focus from discretionary items to essentials.
Meanwhile, Gen Z and millennials, aged between 24 and 38, have emerged as a major force in the consumer market. This generation benefits from a unique form of subsidy: their parents. Many still live at home, remain on their parents' cell phone plans, and enjoy other forms of financial support. This gives them significant discretionary spending power, which they are using to drive growth in categories like French-press coffee, leisure experiences, online gaming, and sports betting.
A divided economic landscape
The BLS survey is likely to reveal a deeply divided US economy. For many households, the cost of living has risen significantly while incomes have stagnated or even declined. However, a smaller, more privileged group continues to enjoy a comfortable lifestyle and drive consumer spending.
As long as these trends continue, the US economy will likely remain a tale of two consumers. The spending power of young adults and high-income households will continue to prop up the economy, even as a growing number of Americans struggle to make ends meet.
The Spring/Summer 2022 collection by Italian luxury menswear brand Boglioli is inspired by the vibrant colors of Venetian palaces as reflected in the waters of the canals, capturing radiant plays of light with shades that range from bold and vivid to soft and ethereal.
Launched under the guidance of Michele Brustia, Creative Director, and the expertise of Marco Re, this collection blends luxurious raw materials with unique and unexpected nuances, creating garments that exude both elegance and subtlety.
Focusing on key fabrics like cotton, linen, wool, the collection reimagines these in fresh combinations, such as cotton with tencel, cotton with linen, and cotton with silk, resulting in fabrics that are both innovative and luxurious. Light, pure linens and soft velvets with a snappy, crisp texture set the tone for summer, while cotton and jersey are treated with an eco-friendly ‘mineral’ dye made from natural sources like coal, avocado, and peach. This sustainable dyeing process reflects Boglioli’s commitment to environmental responsibility.
The collection redefines traditional outerwear with modern twists. The deconstructed Picasso jacket, the Hemingway jacket with safari details, and the Biker jacket crafted from garment-dyed denim all illustrate Boglioli’s signature blend of softness, craftsmanship, and innovation. Shirts are styled as deconstructed jackets, featuring hollowed-out collars and soft cuffs, made from premium garment-dyed, washed, or ultra-light jersey. Meanwhile, the knitwear collection embraces streetwear influences with cashmere cotton sweatshirts and jogging pants, while sweaters in crisp crepe cotton offer relaxed, yet refined, silhouettes.
Inspired by the past to create a future-forward collection, Boglioli introduces a new way of dressing—one that prioritises quality, responsibility, and timeless style. A testament to slow fashion, the collection reflects a conscious, thoughtful approach to style.
