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The recently concluded Centrestage (September 4-7, 2024), Asia's premier fashion event, witnessed a notable participation from AiDLab, a pioneering initiative dedicated to exploring the intersection of Artificial Intelligence (AI) and fashion design. Their engaging session, "Interaction with AI for Fashion Design," captivated audiences with insights into how AI is reshaping the creative landscape of the fashion industry.
The session was helmed by an impressive lineup of experts, including Prof. Calvin Wong, Ms Kim Wong, and Martin Lam, who shared their invaluable knowledge and experiences through insightful discussions and compelling presentations.
Highlights of the discussion and presentations:
• Prof. Calvin Wong underscored the transformative potential of AI in fashion design, emphasizing its capacity to streamline design processes, enhance creativity, and drive innovation. He stated, "AI is not here to replace designers but to empower them. It offers tools and capabilities that can significantly augment their creative vision and problem-solving abilities."
• Ms Kim Wong showcased real-world applications of AI in fashion design through captivating case studies. She highlighted how AI-powered tools are being leveraged to generate design ideas, predict trends, personalize customer experiences, and optimize production processes. "AI is enabling fashion brands to become more agile, responsive, and customer-centric," she noted.
• Martin Lam delved into the technical aspects of AI in fashion design, explaining how machine learning algorithms and generative models are employed to create novel designs, analyze fashion trends, and personalize recommendations. "AI is revolutionizing the way we approach fashion design, making it more data-driven, efficient, and personalized," he elaborated.
The session also featured interactive demonstrations, allowing attendees to experience first-hand the capabilities of AI-powered fashion design tools. This hands-on approach fostered a deeper understanding of how AI is transforming the creative process and empowering designers to push the boundaries of their imagination.
The recently concluded Centrestage 2024 witnessed a vibrant showcase of British fashion, creativity, and innovation, as the "A Fashion-forward UK" initiative brought a dynamic group of designers and brands to the forefront of the Asian fashion scene.
From September 4-7, the UK pavilion buzzed with excitement as attendees explored the latest collections from a diverse range of UK fashion talents, including Anciela, E.L.V. Denim, Patrick McDowell, PLC, Revival, Roksanda, The R Collective, and Vivere.
• Anciela captivated audiences with its luxurious knitwear, crafted from sustainable and ethically sourced materials.
• E.L.V. Denim showcased its commitment to circular fashion with a collection of upcycled and repurposed denim pieces.
• Patrick McDowell made a statement with his bold and theatrical designs, pushing the boundaries of contemporary fashion.
• PLC presented a timeless collection of menswear, highlighting British craftsmanship and attention to detail.
• Revival brought a touch of vintage glamour to the event, showcasing a curated collection of pre-loved and restored designer pieces.
• Roksanda wowed the crowd with her signature use of color and form, presenting a collection of elegant and sophisticated womenswear.
• The R Collective championed sustainable fashion with a collection of upcycled garments, demonstrating the potential of circular design.
• Vivere offered a range of stylish and functional footwear, crafted from high-quality materials and designed for the modern lifestyle.
The UK presence at Centrestage went beyond the exhibition booths, with several engaging activities further highlighting British fashion.
• Designer talks and panel discussions offered insights into the creative processes and inspirations behind the collections.
• Trend presentations explored the latest developments in UK fashion, showcasing the industry's commitment to innovation and sustainability.
• Networking events facilitated connections between UK designers and brands with potential partners and buyers in the Asian market.
The "A Fashion-forward UK" initiative at Centrestage 2024 was a resounding success, showcasing the diversity, creativity, and sustainability of British fashion. The event provided a valuable platform for UK designers and brands to connect with the Asian market, and to establish themselves as key players on the global fashion stage.
Warning that the country’s leading textile export sector is nearing a crucial point, the Bangladesh Textile Mills Association (BTMA)urged the government to ensure a stable energy supply and improve factory security in the sector.
Despite being a key contributor to foreign exchange earnings, the textile industry receives insufficient government support, said BTMA leaders during a meeting at the BTMA office in Dhaka.
Presided over by Showkat Aziz Russell, President, BTMA, the meeting was also attended by the newly elected Vice Presidents Shamim Islam, Managing Director, Jamuna Group, and Abul Kalam.
Expressed concern over the lack of attention for the textile sector, Russell said, the government prioritises the energy sector with incentives and subsidies, while largely overlooking the textile industry.
Even asmall portion of the energy sector’s incentives could unlock new growth opportunities for textiles, a sector that already generates $22 billion in exports and adds45 per cent value, Russell pointed out. Revival of the textile and garment sectors is crucial for the revival of the economy, he stated, further emphasising, the government needs to take immediate steps to ensure an uninterrupted energy supply, access to foreign currency for bank loans and letters of credit (LCs), and to address labor unrest.
To address these issues, Russell called for dialogue between the government and relevant agencies. He emphasised on the important of incentives for local industry in creating jobs and generating foreign currency.
Shamim Islam, Managing Director, Jamuna Group and newly elected Vice President, BTMA highlighted the textile sector’s significant contribution to the economy. Despite contributing13 per cent to GDP, amounting to BDT 6.56 trillion, the sector needs new policies to save it from perishing, he said.
Abul Kalam, Managing Director, Chaity Group and newly elected Vice President, BTMA urged the government to restrict yarn imports to sea routes rather than allowing them by road, suggesting that neighboring countries are taking advantage of the current challenges in Bangladesh.
One of Pakistan's leading textile exporters, Interloop plans to increase its exports to $670.8 million by FY25. The company also aims to strengthen its focus on sustainability and has earmarked an investment of around $92 million for its expansion project. The company also plans to increase production in key areas such as hosiery, denim, and yarn dyeing besidesalso expanding its renewable energy infrastructure.
A core component of Interloop’s growth strategy includes expanding its hosiery production capacity. The company plans to develop the Hosiery Plant 6 with an investment of$58 million.Scheduled for completion in Q1,FY26, this new plant will increase Interloop’s hosiery production by 25 per cent by adding1,584 new knitting machines.
Interloop is also investing $18.8 million to establish 20 new denim production lines, set to be operational by the fourth quarter of FY26. This will increase the company’s annual garment production capacity to 18 million units, allowing it to capitalise on the growing demand for premium denim apparel worldwide.
In addition to expanding its core production, Interloop is also investing in yarn dyeing and renewable energy to bolster its sustainability efforts. The company will invest $13.2 million to expand its yarn dyeing capacity and an additional $2.1 million to add 4MW of solar power to its renewable energy portfolio. Once completed, this will bring Interloop’s total solar generation capacity to 16.6MW by the third quarter of FY25, aligning with its broader goals of reducing its carbon footprint and supporting sustainable production practices.
Hong Kong's recent Centerstage fashion showcase, held from September 4-7, 2024, proved once again that the city is a vibrant hub for emerging fashion talent. The event, organized by the Hong Kong Trade Development Council (HKTDC), featured over 250 designers from Hong Kong, Asia, and beyond, showcasing their latest collections through runway shows, presentations, and trade exhibitions.
Designers, along with many others, showcased the diversity and creativity thriving in Hong Kong's fashion scene. From haute couture to sustainable futurewear, whimsical designs to edgy sportswear. Here's a glimpse into the leading brands and collections with their unique fashion statements and innovative designs:
Robert Wun: A "Homecoming" of haute couture
Hong Kong-born, London-based Robert Wun's "Homecoming" collection was a highlight, paying tribute to his grandmother and the resilience of Hong Kong women. The collection was a thrilling blend of dark glamour and sculptural artistry, featuring dramatic hats, cinched bodices, and crystal-embroidered trains. Wun's masterful craftsmanship and bold designs solidified his position as a leading force in the fashion world.
ANGUS TSUI: Futurewear with a Sci-Fi edge
Angus Tsui's collection was a sci-fi lover's dream, inspired by H.R. Giger's biomechanical designs. The collection featured futuristic, structural pieces with a dark, apocalyptic aesthetic. From spiky, tentacled dresses to vegan leather creations, Tsui's designs pushed the boundaries of fashion, showcasing his innovative approach to sustainable futurewear.
Röyksopp gakkai: A whimsical and colourful world
Röyksopp gakkai's "citta-matra" collection was a burst of playful energy, inspired by the magical girl manga series Hime-chan's Ribbon. The collection featured oversized tulle, bows, ribbons, and bright, cheerful prints. This light hearted and whimsical collection offered a refreshing contrast to the darker, edgier styles on display.
SelfFab.: Redefining sportswear with an '80s Techno Twist
SelfFab.'s "RE-SYNTHDELIC" collection was a bold reimagining of sportswear, infused with '80s techno aesthetics. The collection featured everything from revamped tracksuits and fencing-inspired silhouettes to leather tennis skirts and biker shorts. This edgy, club kid-friendly collection showcased the brand's ability to blend athleticwear with high fashion.
Rickyy Wong: Effortless cool and a love letter to Hong Kong
Rickyy Wong's collection was a celebration of understated elegance and urban style. Featuring soothing colors, laser-cut denim, and fresh takes on men's tailoring, the collection exuded a sense of effortless cool. The show's soundtrack, featuring the rhythmic beeping of Hong Kong's pedestrian signals, added a unique touch, reflecting the city's vibrant energy.
Centerstage 2024: A testament to Hong Kong's creative spirit
Centerstage 2024 was a testament to the city's dynamic fashion landscape. It's clear that Hong Kong's fashion scene is one to watch, with designers pushing boundaries and setting new trends.
The Woolmark Company has launched Woolmark+, an initiative to ensure a sustainable future for the wool industry,
Launched with an aim to improve animal welfare, this initiative also aims to enhance woolgrower livelihoods, and accelerate low-impact production, all while promoting circularity in the sector. It outlines 13 projects designed to boost productivity, reduce carbon emissions, and encourage natural regeneration. This strategy not only supports woolgrowers in achieving their commercial objectives but also aligns with brands' increasing commitment to reducing Scope 3 emissions and improving supply chain sustainability.
One of the key components of the Woolmark+ initiative includes Carbon Insetting, a pioneering program that helpsconnect global brands with woolgrowers to help meet their emissions targets through wool-insetting.
The initiative has also launched nine R&D efforts to reduce methane emissions from sheep by using feed additives. Besides, it also endorses nature positive specification by conducting environmental measurements on farms to allow woolgrowers and brands make verifiable claims about their sustainability efforts.
Another highlight of the initiative includes the Nature Positive Impact Program which offers investors a platform to engage with leading organisations working on emission reduction, biodiversity improvement, climate resilience, and circularity initiatives.
In addition, the initiative has also launched another program to position wool as the most recycled fiber in the industry.
According to John Robert, CEO, Woolmark, the Woolmark+initiative helps woolgrowers, brands, and suppliers transition towards a nature-positive approach. It enhances cost efficiency besides creating diversified revenue opportunities across the wool value chain by communicating the inherent value of wool and the environmental benefits of its production.
Ajay Pradhan, Senior Marketing & Business Development Manager -India, Woolmark, emphasises, the initiative aims to support and recognise the dedication of the wool supply chain to sustainable innovation and positive impact.
A recent World Bank (WB) report highlights a concerning trend for India's manufacturing sector. Vietnam and Bangladesh have surpassed India as the preferred low-cost manufacturing and export hubs. This shift signals a potential challenge for India's ambitions to become a global manufacturing powerhouse.
Key findings from the report
• Declining trade share: Despite its rapid economic growth, India's share in global trade has not kept pace. The proportion of trade in goods and services as a percentage of India's GDP has decreased in the past decade.
• Loss of market share: In particular, India's share in global exports of apparel, leather, textiles, and footwear (ALTF) declined from a peak of 4.5 per cent in 2013 to 3.5 per cent in 2022.
• Rise of Vietnam and Bangladesh: In contrast, Vietnam and Bangladesh have seen strong growth, reaching 5.9 per cent and 5.1 per cent of global ALTF exports, respectively, in 2022.
The report attributes this change to several factors. And one major cause is rising labor costs in India. While India still boasts a large and relatively inexpensive labor force, wages have been rising steadily in recent years. This has eroded some of India's cost advantages compared to its neighbors. Stronger infrastructure in competing countries is another reason. Vietnam and Bangladesh have invested heavily in infrastructure development, including ports, roads, and power supply. This has improved their efficiency and attractiveness to foreign investors.
Then there are favorable trade agreements as both Vietnam and Bangladesh have actively pursued free trade agreements with major economies, expanding their market access and making them more competitive export destinations. What’s more, Vietnam and Bangladesh have focused on developing specific manufacturing sectors, such as textiles and electronics, achieving economies of scale and expertise.
For example, Bangladesh's success in the textile industry is a prime example of how a focus on a specific sector, coupled with low labor costs, can drive export growth. The country has become the world's second-largest exporter of ready-made garments. On similar lines, Vietnam has attracted significant investment from global electronics companies, including Samsung and Intel. Their skilled workforce, improving infrastructure, and favorable trade agreements have made it a preferred destination for electronics manufacturing.
Table: Comparative manufacturing costs
|
Country |
Average monthly manufacturing wage ($) |
|
Vietnam |
250 |
|
Bangladesh |
150 |
|
India |
300 |
|
China |
750 |
The shift in low-cost manufacturing to Vietnam and Bangladesh underscores the importance of competitiveness in the global marketplace. Manufacturers are constantly seeking locations that offer the optimal combination of cost, quality, and efficiency. As wages rise in India and China, manufacturers are looking for alternative destinations that can provide similar capabilities at a lower cost.
Implications for India
The report underscores India needs to address several challenges to remain competitive in the global manufacturing landscape. These include improving labor productivity which entails enhancing labor skills as productivity is crucial to offsetting the impact of rising wages. Meanwhile lowering trade barriers and improving trade facilitation can make India a more attractive destination for foreign investment. Continued investment in infrastructure development is essential to improve logistics and connectivity. And simplifying regulations and creating a more business-friendly environment can encourage manufacturing growth. Identifying and promoting specific manufacturing sectors with high growth potential is also important for future growth.
India's success in manufacturing will be crucial for its economic growth and job creation. By addressing these challenges and learning from the experiences of Vietnam and Bangladesh, India can position itself for a more prosperous future in the global manufacturing landscape.
As cotton prices rise in India, ripple effects felt across supply chain, domestic market and exports
Cotton prices in India have reached new heights of late, surpassing the Minimum Support Price (MSP) by 3 per cent. Experts anticipate a further price increase in the coming days. This escalating trend is triggered by various factors, including reduced cotton acreage this Kharif season, crop damage from heavy rains in key producing states, and the lingering impact of pest attacks in the previous year.
Domestic market outlook
The current situation points to a tight cotton supply in the domestic market, with prices exceeding MSP levels. This trend is expected to persist given the lower cotton acreage and potential crop losses. In fact, the price rise might be momentarily beneficial for farmers, the ripple effects could pose challenges for the entire cotton supply chain.
The high prices of domestic cotton are expected to lead to a shift in consumption patterns, with a potential increase in the use of imported cotton. As domestic cotton becomes more expensive, textile mills and other industries may opt for relatively cheaper imported options to maintain profit margins. This could further increase the demand for imported cotton and exert pressure on the domestic market.
Export competitiveness
India is a major player in the global cotton market. However, spiralling domestic prices could negatively impact India's export competitiveness. High domestic prices make Indian cotton less attractive to international buyers compared to other cotton-producing countries. This could lead to a decline in exports and impact the revenue generated from cotton sales. Also, higher raw material costs could make Indian cotton-based products relatively expensive in the international market. This could lead to reduced exports and loss of market share to countries offering cotton products at more competitive prices.
Ripple effect across supply chain
The escalating cotton prices are likely to create a ripple effect throughout the cotton supply chain in India. From farmers to textile mills and garment manufacturers, various stakeholders may be affected.
Farmers: While higher prices may seem beneficial for farmers, the reduced sowing area and crop damage due to heavy rains may limit their overall gains. Furthermore, the increased cost of inputs like fertilizers and pesticides could further impact their profitability.
Textile mills: Higher cotton prices will translate into increased production costs for textile mills. This may force them to either pass on the cost to consumers through higher prices or absorb the impact, affecting their profitability.
Garment manufacturers: The rising cost of raw materials, including cotton, may lead to higher prices for garments and other textile products. This could impact consumer demand and affect the overall growth of the garment industry.
The debut Tranoi Tokyo trade show, held from September 4-5, spotlighted the dynamic spirit of African fashion through Afrexim bank’s Canex Presents Africa initiative. Ten distinguished brands from Africa and the diaspora showcased their designs, promoting African creativity on a global stage.
Among the featured brands was Vanhu Vamwe from Zimbabwe, known for its luxury handcrafted heirlooms that merge traditional crafts with modern innovation. Trinidad and Tobago’s The Cloth, established in 1986 by Robert Young, also participated, alongside Nigeria’s Shekudo, originally a women’s clothing brand that transitioned to footwear and accessories in 2017.
Other notable participants included Egypt’s Dina Shaker, focused on elevating personal style, and Kenya’s Adele Dejak, renowned for its luxury fashion jewellery blending contemporary design with traditional craftsmanship. Katush, also from Kenya, explores perceptions of history and culture through fashion, while Tunisia’s Anissa Aida draws inspiration from both Tunisian heritage and Japanese craftsmanship.
Judy Sanderson, a Portugal-based ready-to-wear brand by South African designer Judy Sanderson, joined the showcase along with Ethiopia’s ethical casual wear brand Fozia Endrias and Nigeria’s sustainable fashion brand Emmy Kasbit.
Kanayo Awani, Afrexim bank’s Executive Vice President, emphasized the Bank’s strategy to promote African creatives by connecting them with international buyers, investors, and industry stakeholders. She encouraged participation in Canex Wknd 2024 in Algiers, set for October 16-19, as a significant platform for collaboration and business development.
Tranoi Tokyo attracted 3,499 visitors over two days, with 170 avant-garde brands presenting their Spring/Summer 2025 collections to buyers from Japan, Korea, Singapore, Taiwan, and China.
Afrexim bank’s Canex initiative continues to provide African designers with access to global markets and sustainable growth opportunities.
Despite rising energy costs in Germany, ETV, a Gescher-based finishing specialist, continues to thrive. Founded in 1950, the company is installing a third Monforts Montex 8500 finishing range with a working width of 3.2 meters. This new system includes a Montex Coat coating unit and an Eco Booster heat recovery system, both aimed at improving productivity and energy efficiency.
ETV's managing director, Dirk Tunney, attributes the company's success to a strategic pivot 25 years ago, moving from traditional textiles to technical textiles, films, and membranes. Today, the company processes 1,500 tons of yarn and 1.6 million linear meters of fabric annually. Additionally, ETV prints 4 million linear meters of fabrics and coats up to 40 million meters of materials each year.
However, escalating energy prices present significant challenges. Energy costs, which once comprised less than 10 per cent of overhead, now account for up to 13 per cent, amounting to an additional €400,000 per year.
Monforts, a key partner, is addressing energy efficiency through innovations like the Eco Booster, which can save up to 35 per cent on energy. The company is also part of a consortium exploring green hydrogen as a future energy source for textile finishing processes. ETV’s proximity to Monforts' headquarters makes it a prime candidate for testing these new technologies.
Tunney highlights the need for government support in advancing sustainable solutions, stressing that without decarbonization efforts, German industry risks deindustrialization.
