FW
Denim recently celebrated its 141st birthday, proving that some well-placed nips, tucks and makeovers can preserve one’s freshness. But over the last few years, one change has been less well received by denim wearers: the substitution of cotton for synthetic fibers. And some are saying it’s not enough to look the part; denim’s authenticity has to come from the inside, too.
The fiber swapping began after cotton prices surged in late 2010. Although prices stabilized a year later, the apparel industry continues to substitute manmade fibers for cotton. Adding a bit of stretch for comfort evolved into some denim jeans being made with blends of less than 50 percent cotton.
On an average, shoppers expect a pair of jeans to last about five years. However, research reveals consumer expectations aren’t being met. Seven out of 10 US consumers say apparel prices have increased, but they’ve also noticed clothes typically made with cotton are now made with other fibers, fabrics are thinner and don’t last as long. Overall, 66 per cent of US consumers are dissatisfied with fiber substitution in their denim jeans. And yet 60 per cent of consumers would pay more to keep the cotton in their denim jeans.
Some brands, recognizing consumer preference, remain steadfast in keeping cotton in their collections. At Robin’s Jean, a super premium brand that also has five retail locations, the denim fabric for both men’s and women’s styles have always been traditional all-cotton denim, or cotton with a single-digit percentage of stretch.
Blue jeans were born in San Francisco during the gold mining era, when tailor Jacob Davis teamed with Levi Strauss to create riveted workwear made of denim. The pair received an official US patent for their invention on May 20, 1873. Denim remained a conventional item until Hollywood gave it a cool factor in the 1950s. From there, it was only a matter of time before average Americans wanted to wear it. Of course, designer jeans took the category to new heights beginning in the late ’70s.
But throughout its various iterations, the fabric itself remained authentic to its heritage through its cotton construction – and remained a wardrobe favorite as a result. When compared to jeans with manmade fibers like polyester and rayon, the majority of women say 100 percent cotton or cotton/spandex jeans are the most breathable, durable, comfortable, fashionable and versatile.
www.robinsjean.com
Sporting goods company Adidas has entered into a strategic partnership with Bluesign Technologies of Switzerland. The aim is to advance sustainable solutions in the global supply chain. All suppliers to the Adidas group will have access to the global databank Bluefinder, which contains information on sustainable textile chemicals and production processes. All manufactured materials must then undergo strict testing, where the adherence to Bluesign criteria is checked.
Additionally, the adidas group continues to monitor the chemical management of manufacturers. In 2013 the company carried out 149 environmental inspections at the factories of its suppliers. Bluesign Technologies provides independent auditing of textile mills, examining manufacturing processes from raw materials and energy inputs to water and air emissions outputs. Each component is assessed based on its eco-toxicological impact. Bluesign is an emerging standard for environmental health and safety in the manufacturing of textiles.
Bluesign ranks its audit findings in order of concern, and suggests ways to reduce consumption while recommending alternatives to harmful chemicals or processes where applicable. Eco-conscious consumers can feel confident purchasing clothing items with the Bluesign label since they are buying environment-friendly products. Bluesign has gained serious traction in the last few years among some of the leading brands in the outdoor clothing and gear business.
www.bluesign.com/
A project to improve industrial relations in Cambodia’s garment industry has been launched and Swedish fashion company H&M is giving financial support to the project. It aims to address some of the core challenges at the heart of industrial relations in Cambodia, and to provide training and capacity building to facilitate necessary improvements. The project will work intensively in a select number of H&M supplier factories, many of which have several trade unions.
It will provide training and awareness-raising to eliminate unlawful practices, including bribery and corruption, and promote enterprise-based approaches based on collective bargaining and gender equality. The aim is to improve unions’ ability to genuinely represent workers and encourage unions and employers to engage in collective bargaining.
For the garment industry as a whole, the project will provide training to factory management, unions and other stakeholders to improve communication and negotiation skills. This collaborative effort involving national and international partners is expected to bring significant benefits to both the industry and Cambodian workers.
Cambodia’s garment industry is regularly plagued with strikes and protests. Statutory minimum wages determined by national governments and industries usually fall short of workers’ demands. Unlike other garment-producing countries, where factories are not concentrated in big cities, Cambodia only has one main manufacturing hub: its capital city. Workers as a result have to pay very high living costs to stay near where they work.
The 2014-15 cotton projections for the US show higher production and ending stocks compared to last month. Projected abandonment in the southwest has been reduced due to recent favorable rainfall, resulting in a production increase of 5,00,000 bales to 15million. Overall US abandonment is now projected at 21 per cent, below the preceding two years, but above the long-run average, due to current subsoil moisture deficits in the southwest. Domestic mill use and exports are unchanged from last month, resulting in ending stocks of 4.3 million bales. The forecast stocks-to-use ratio of 32 per cent would be the highest in six years. The marketing-year average price received by producers is projected to range from 60 to 80 cents per pound, down 3 cents on both ends of the range. At the midpoint of 70 cents, prices would fall 10 per cent from 2013-14.
This month’s 2014-15 world projections include higher beginning and ending stocks, equivalent increases in production and consumption, and a decline in world trade. Beginning stocks are raised due mainly to a higher China import forecast for 2013-14 and higher 2013-14 production for India.
For 2014-15, production is raised for the United States, while consumption is raised for India and Vietnam, but is lowered for Pakistan. World trade is reduced, as imports are lower for China and Pakistan, but higher for Vietnam. World stocks are raised nearly 1.1 million bales from last month.
The cotton and leather industries of Kenya could see better times, if a plan mooted by the government succeeds. The industry suffered when it was liberalised and the market was flooded with cheap imports. Now, the government plans to rejuvenate the sectors to create thousands of jobs, especially in the textile industry. New measures are aimed at improving production and attracting new investments.
The plan is to create close to 8,00,000 jobs in the next few years in the textile and leather sectors. Top on the list of measures being pursued includes enhancing value addition. Both sectors have been hit by the influx of second hand clothes and shoes. The export value of articles of apparel increased by 7.5 per cent in 2013 compared to 2012. The cotton sector is currently producing about 10,000 metric tons, far below its potential of 40,000 metric tons.
The cotton industry collapsed between the late 1980s and 90s after the liberalisation of the agriculture sector following the introduction of the ‘Structural Adjustment Programs’ by the World Bank and the International Monetary Fund. This led to the collapse of most ginneries. Currently, there are only eight ginneries in the country. The industrialization plan will further reinvigorate the local leather industry.
Nigeria will host the Africa Fashion Reception in Abuja from July 3 to 5 following the consideration of its bid by the World Fashion Organisation ahead of five other African nations, South Africa, Kenya, Senegal, Ivory Coast and Uganda. The event will be organised by Branzuk Gold, which is the franchise holder in the country.
The decision was made in Paris last year. Nigeria is a member of the 115 nations that constitute the World Fashion Organisation. It became a member of the body five years ago. The Africa Fashion Reception is three days of fashion shows and exhibitions for fashion designers and accessory producers from all over the continent. Forty African countries will participate at the event to celebrate cultural diversity with the theme Africa is the New Inspiration of Global Capital. Only one top designer will be selected to represent each of the participating African countries.
Nigeria is a leading exponent of fashion in Africa. Nigerian designers are redefining fashion globally as their works are now seen in some of the most luxurious stores across the world. The World Fashion Organisation is looking to establish a garment industry in addition to a University of Fashion in Nigeria.
africafashionreception.com/
Cashmere World 2014 will be held September 25 to 27, 2014, Hong Kong. This is the only integrated trade event dedicated to cashmere and fine fibers which covers the whole supply chain of the cashmere sector – from the herds grazing on the high Mongolian plateau through to the combing and processing of raw cashmere into the yarn that makes sweaters. This year the fair has broadened its scope to embrace fine fibers.
Cashmere World is a fashion event and it is being held concurrently with Fashion Access, Asia’s leading fair for head-to-toe fashion. Also planned at this year’s fair is the Cashmere World Forum, which will provide a platform for industry leaders and experts to exchange ideas on the latest topics in the cashmere and fine fibers industry.
Cashmere World is a vertically integrated business platform for the international cashmere trade. It is a high-standard, annual meeting place for business, catalysing fashion trends and technology innovation that make cashmere one of the world’s most loved luxury materials. Cashmere is often combined with other luxurious fibers such as silk and superfine merino wool to create hybrid garments and sweaters.
www.cashmereworldfair.com ›
Bangladesh's export earnings from apparel products during July-May fiscal year 2013-14 grew by more than 14 per cent over the corresponding time of last fiscal. Export receipts from apparels, including knit and woven items, stood at $22.17 billion during the first 11 months of the outgoing fiscal up from $19.31 billion in the corresponding period of the last financial year.
Export earnings from apparel products are expected to reach $24.75 billion at the end of current fiscal. Knit products showed a 16.28 per cent growth. Woven products showed a 13.46 per cent growth. If the same trends continue in the next fiscal, the country expects a lot more investment from entrepreneurs to come in. However, export of jute and jute products witnessed negative growth during the period. Earnings from leather, leather goods grew by 29 per cent.
However, apparel exports are facing numerous problems as buyers are not increasing products' prices. Many factories have closed due to western retailers' assessment programs tremendous competition from competiting countries.
Pakistan's budget for 2014-15 has raised customs duty from five to 15 per cent on import of different kinds of dyes, including sulphur dyes, vat dyes, disperse dyes and solvent dyes. A five to ten per cent duty on white oil has been imposed, with a one percent duty on indigo blue and basic dyes used by the local chemicals industry and commercial importers. The Pakistan Chemicals & Dyes Merchants Association wants the removal of these anomalies from the budget particularly, the sudden jump in customs tariff on import of dyes from 5 to 15 per cent. The association has informed the finance minister that this abrupt increase will hurt export-oriented textile industries. The addition to manufacturing cost will hit the industry’s competitiveness in the international market.
The association says white oil is routinely smuggled through Iran. If the duty were to be increased to 10 per cent and not reduced to 5 per cent, smuggling would increase and the national exchequer would suffer huge losses in terms of customs duty, sales tax and other levies.
The budget imposes a difference of 15 per cent sales tax applicable on the same goods. It is feared this would create a huge opportunity for dishonest and fraudulent elements to show excessive consumption in units which enjoy a 2 per cent tax rate facility, thereby pushing honest commercial importers completely out of business.
Bangladesh commerce minister Tofail Ahmed has urged the US to allow duty-free and quota-free access of Bangladesh apparels to its market. The aim is to boost bilateral trade between the two countries.
The commerce minister held separate meetings with US Trade Representative Michael Froman, Congressman Sandy Levin, Under Secretary of State for Economic Growth, Energy and the Environment Catherine A Novelli, Assistant Secretary of State for South and Central Asian Affairs Nisha Desai Biswal and various retailers' associations.
During the meeting he informed the US officials of the progress made in the readymade garment sector in accordance with the US Action Plan for regaining the Generalised System of Preferences (GSP) facility in the US market. Bangladesh hopes to get back the GSP facility in the US market soon as the country feels it has made much progress in the readymade garment sector.
Ahmed praised the sincere cooperation of Bangladesh Garment Manufacturers and Exporters Association (BGMEA), Bangladesh Knitwear Manufacturers and Exporters Association (BKMEA), International Labor Organisation (ILO), Alliance, Accord, the US and the western countries for putting the country’s apparel sector on a strong footing. He highlighted the ongoing efforts for diversifying the export items and destinations for Bangladeshi products.
