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After surpassing pre-crisis levels in 2022 and stagnating in 2023, EU’s exports of textiles and clothing continued to decline in the first quarter of 2024. Imports also slowed, although not as drastically as the previous year.

Clothing exports from the region fell by 4 per cent, amounting to €9.3 billion, according to customs figures processed by the InstitutFrançais de la Mode. This decline did not impact Asia, as the European Union increased its shipments to the region by 12 per cent, while shipments to the Mediterranean dropped by 9 per cent.

Imports by EU's largest customers, including Switzerland, the United Kingdom, and the United States, declined during the quarter. However, exports to China, Hong Kong, and Macao rose, with Japan remaining stable. Clothing exports to United Arab Emirates, Ukraine, and Vietnam also increased during the quarter.

On the other hand, textile exports from the region declined by 6 per cent to €6.6 billion. Exports to Asia increased by 11 per cent during the Jan-Mar’24 period. The United States reported a 3 per cent decline in exports, the United Kingdom registered a 13 per cent decline while exports to China increased by 22 per cent. India reported a 38 per cent increase in imports from the EU, Vietnam 24 per cent, and the United Arab Emirates 18 per cent.

Clothing imports by the EU declined by 14 per cent during the quarter to €19.2 billion.Imports from China declined by 10 per cent while from Bangladesh by 21 per cent, Turkey 14 per cent and India 22 per cent. EU also noted a significant drop in imports from Myanmar, Indonesia and Switzerland.

Textile imports by EU decreased by 11 per centduring the quarter to €7.4 billion. Imports from Asia dropped 12 per cent, China 6 per cent, Turkey 6 per cent and Pakistan 18 per cent. However, Tunisia and Morrocco reported a minimal decline in exports to the EU with imports from Tunisia declining by just 1 per cent while imports from Morocco rose by 1 per cent.

  

Under Armor and USA Football have entered into a multi-year partnership set to last through the 2028 Summer Olympics in Los Angeles. The agreement names Under Armor as the official and exclusive uniform, apparel, and footwear partner for USA Football and its US National Teams, which includes both men's and women's squads. The brandhas been mandated to supply innovative products for athletes as they prepare for and compete in the Olympics and other international events.

The International Olympic Committee (IOC) has recently announced the inclusion of flag football in the 2028 Los Angeles Games. As a result, Under Armor will outfit the first Olympic team for the 2028 Summer Games as flag football and USA Football's US National Teams make their Olympic debut.

The collaboration between USA Football and Under Armor was launched in late May as the US Men's and Women's Flag National Teams gathered for a training camp. This camp organisedwas in preparation for the International Federation of American Football's Flag Football World Championships in Lahti, Finland, scheduled for August.

Scott Hallenbeck, CEO, USA Footwear, opines, this partnership with Under Armor will transform the game from the youth level to elite national teams. The brand’s focus on performance, innovation, and sustainable products will help ensure the national teams' success.

  

The 106th edition of men’s fashion show, PittiUomo is being held at the Fortezza Da Basso, Florence, Italy. To run until June 14, this edition of the event is being attended by 790 exhibitors, 43 per cent of them from abroad, compared to 832 in January and 825 in June 2023.

The theme of this 106th edition is ‘Pitti Lemon’ as it features an effervescent, ‘lemony’ atmosphere to create a sunny, vitamin-packed environment.

Painted in bright golden yellow, the venue boasts of several eye-catching features such as a florist selling only yellow daffodils, mimosas, hyacinths, narcissi and tulips, display stands filled with ochre postcards, and a straw-colored telephone booth where more than one visitors have stopped to have their photo taken. The exhibitors have decorated their stands with large green plants and original fittings.

The stands outside the venue have been equipped with parasols and deckchairs. The informal clothing brand Sun68 has even installed a swimming pool. However, the seemingly carefree atmosphere belies the underlying challenges.

With a marked slowdown at the start of the year, rising raw material and transport prices, geopolitical tensions, and falling consumer confidence, PittiUomo proves a crucial event to understand the market's direction. Sergio Tamborini, President, SistemaModa Italia (SMI), opines, the market is changing decisively.

Beginning with the awarding of a career prize to Hirofumi Kurino, Co-founder, United Arrows, and the Pitti 2024 Award to Spanish entrepreneur Javier Goyeneche, Head, Ecoalf, PittiUomo proves to be an important tradeshow as the increasing polarisation of the market between extreme luxury and fast fashion has left the middle class with fewer affordable quality options, adds Tamborini.

Emphasising on the need to start again with the product, Antonio De Matteis, President, PittiImmagine, adds, a large number of Asian and American buyers are expected to participate in the show.

Describing the 106th edition of PittiUomo as ‘ an edition of relaunch and challenge, Dario Nardella, Outgoing Mayor, Florence and newly elected MEP on the Democratic Party list, proposed organising an annual meeting in Florence with major European fashion players to set priorities for the sector.

  

Oscar Garcia Maceiras, CEO, Inditex, has been appointed as the new co-Chairman of Fashion Pact’s Steering Committee.

Set up in 2019 by French President Emmanuel Macron and Francois-Henri Pinault, CEO, Keringat the G7 meeting in Biarritz, France, Fashion Pact aims to address the growing concernsof the fashion industry’s environmental impact. The Pact has set out broad guidelines to improve industry practices by 2050.

Currently comprising 60 names, the consortium includes sportswear brands like Adidas, Nike, Puma, Roosignol and Decathlon. It also includes budget and premium fashion retailers and groups like the Beaumanoir Group, Etam, Celio, MF Brands, Kiabi, PVH Mango, H&M and Inditex. Luxury players such as Ferragamo Armani, ErmenegildoZegna, Chloe, Tapestry, Burberry, Prada and Kering are also a part of this consortium..

Focusing on shared tools and common benchmarks with regards to issues like fighting and climate change, Fashion Pact also aims to preserve biodiversity and safeguard the oceans. However, the regulation’s pledges are considered vague by critics as they lack binding commitments by Fashion Pact’s members with their actions not being transparent enough.

 

China threading its way into Pakistans textile industry could be a double edged sword

Pakistan's textile sector, a pillar of the nation's economy, is facing a new wave of influence: China. While Chinese investment has brought significant benefits, concerns are rising about its long-term impact.

China is Pakistan's largest trading partner, with bilateral trade exceeding $25 billion in 2023. Textile and apparel exports from Pakistan to China have grown steadily, reaching $2.2 billion in 2023. As per Pakistan Bureau of Statistics China accounted for 26.4 per cent of Pakistan's total textile imports in 2022, a increase from 18.7 per cent in 2018. This trend reflects China's dominance in synthetic fiber production, a key raw material for Pakistani apparel. Chinese imports to Pakistan's textile sector have also gone up, exceeding $4.5 billion in 2023. This significant trade imbalance raises concerns. Pakistan Bureau of Statistics also reveals, China is Pakistan's top source of textile machinery imports, accounting for over 40 per cent in 2023. This translates to a rise in efficiency and modernization for Pakistani mills.

China's share in Pakistan's textile imports

Year

China's share

2018

18.70%

2019

21.20%

2020

23.80%

2021

25.10%

2022

26.40%

Collaboration with caution

One example of China's growing presence is the China-Pakistan Economic Corridor (CPEC). This multi-billion dollar infrastructure project includes plans for joint ventures in textile manufacturing. While this promises increased production capacity for Pakistan, some industry leaders worry about competition with established Chinese brands. The influx of Chinese investment in textile mills is a double-edged sword," says Asif Aziz, Chairman, Pakistan Textile Mills Association (PTMA). "While it brings much-needed modernization, it also creates competition for our own brands in the international market."

Nishat Mills, a leading Pakistani textile manufacturer, exemplifies the potential benefits of collaboration. The company partnered a Chinese firm to establish a state-of-the-art spinning mill. This venture has resulted in increased production capacity, improved technology adoption, and job creation. However, industry experts warn against overreliance on Chinese technology and materials, advocating for fostering domestic innovation. As Sarah Ahmed, CEO, Gul Ahmed Textile Mills points out, Pakistan needs to leverage Chinese expertise while nurturing local talent to build a sustainable and competitive textile sector.

Fashion forward or following trends

The impact of China extends beyond raw materials. Chinese fast-fashion trends are influencing Pakistani consumer preferences. This can be a positive force, offering a wider variety of styles and potentially boosting domestic apparel sales. However, some argue that a focus on replicating trends hinders the development of a unique Pakistani fashion identity.

"We need to strike a balance between embracing global trends and nurturing our own design talent," says Sarah Rashid, a prominent Pakistani fashion designer. "Collaboration with Chinese designers could be a way to achieve this." While Chinese investment offers access to advanced technology, improved infrastructure, and potential market expansion, some concerns linger. Job displacement is one of them as some fear cheaper Chinese imports could lead to job losses in Pakistan's labor-intensive textile sector. Also there is the fear of erosion of domestic industry. Overdependence on Chinese technology and materials could stifle local innovation and weaken domestic producers.

To navigate this complex landscape, Pakistan needs a multi-pronged approach.

Skilling the workforce: Invest in training programs to equip Pakistani workers with the skills needed to operate advanced machinery and compete in a globalized market.

Promoting value addition: Encourage Pakistani manufacturers to move beyond basic textiles and focus on higher-value products like finished garments and designer wear.

Fostering innovation: Create an environment that incentivizes research and development in the textile sector to ensure long-term competitiveness.

China's growing presence in Pakistan's textile sector presents a double-edged sword. By embracing collaboration strategically and nurturing domestic capabilities, Pakistan can leverage this trend to propel its textile industry towards a prosperous future.

 

Fast Fashions Foray into Luxury A Stitch in Time or a Bridge Too Far

The glittering world of luxury fashion and the fast-paced, trend-driven realm of fast fashion seem like polar opposites. One whispers exclusivity and craftsmanship, the other shouts affordability and instant gratification. So, can a fast-fashion brand ever truly penetrate the luxury market?

The Antithesis: Why luxury and fast fashion clash

Luxury thrives on scarcity and heritage. Think meticulously crafted Italian handbags with decades of tradition woven into each stitch. Fast fashion, on the other hand, is all about churning out trendy pieces quickly and cheaply. The materials are often synthetic, and the focus is on replicating runway looks for a fraction of the cost. “Luxury fashion is about quality, craftsmanship, and heritage," says Professor Natalie Berg in Journal of Brand Management study. "Fast fashion is about speed, trend, and affordability." This fundamental difference creates a chasm that seems difficult to bridge. Would a luxury customer, accustomed to impeccable quality and exclusivity, ever be satisfied with a fast-fashion take on luxury? This inherent contradiction makes a full-fledged transition for a fast-fashion brand unlikely.

Strategies for a hybrid approach

However, there are ways for fast fashion to tap into the luxury market's allure. Here are a few strategies:

Limited edition collaborations: Fast-fashion giants like H&M have found success with capsule collections designed by high-profile luxury designers. These limited-edition pieces offer a taste of luxury at an accessible price point, while the association with a prestigious name elevates the fast-fashion brand's image.

Sustainable and ethical practices: Luxury consumers are increasingly concerned about ethical production and environmental impact, areas where fast fashion has a poor reputation. A shift towards sustainable materials and ethical labor practices could be a game-changer. "There is a growing consumer demand for transparency and accountability throughout the fashion supply chain," says Livia Firth, Founder, The Green Carpet Challenge, in a Business of Fashion interview. Fast fashion brands that can demonstrate a commitment to these values might find a foothold.

Elevated materials and construction: Fast fashion doesn't have to mean low quality. By using higher-quality fabrics and employing better construction techniques, fast-fashion brands can create pieces that feel more luxurious and command a higher price tag. For example, Everlane's the American brand focuses on radical transparency in its pricing model, highlighting the true cost of production and emphasizing ethical sourcing. While not strictly "fast fashion," Everlane offers high-quality basics at a competitive price, appealing to a customer who values both affordability and ethical practices.

A long and uncertain path

While there are potential strategies, a full-fledged fast-fashion brand becoming a true luxury player remains unlikely. The core values are simply too different. However, by embracing limited-edition collaborations, ethical practices, and high-quality basics, fast fashion brands can create a niche for themselves that bridges the gap between affordability and a touch of luxury. The future of this potential bridge remains to be seen, but it will be fascinating to watch these attempts unfold.

 

Expanding plus size clothing market

The plus size clothing market has witnessed remarkable growth in recent years, reflecting a shift in societal attitudes towards body positivity and inclusivity. With a market value of US$ 288 billion in 2023 and projected to exceed US$ 501.35 billion by 2033, the industry is on an upward trajectory, expanding at a steady 5.7 per cent CAGR. Key drivers behind this growth include the body positivity movement, evolving fashion norms, and increased consumer awareness.

Empowering body positivity

At the forefront of the surge in demand for plus size clothing is the body positivity movement. This cultural shift celebrates diversity and encourages individuals to embrace their bodies, regardless of size or shape. By advocating for inclusivity in fashion, the movement has empowered plus size individuals to demand clothing options that not only fit well but also align with their personal style preferences. As a result, designers and retailers are responding by offering trendy and attractive clothing solutions tailored to the needs of this demographic.

Fashion norms have also undergone a significant transformation, moving away from traditional standards towards more inclusive and diverse representations. Designers are increasingly recognizing the importance of catering to a broader range of body types, leading to the proliferation of stylish plus size clothing options. This shift reflects a growing acceptance of diverse beauty standards and a rejection of the one-size-fits-all approach to fashion.

Furthermore, heightened consumer awareness has played a pivotal role in driving demand within the plus size clothing market. Plus size individuals are becoming more vocal about their clothing needs, seeking garments that not only flatter their figures but also allow them to express their unique sense of style. This increased demand for attractive and well-fitting clothing has spurred innovation in the industry, with customization options and personalized shopping experiences gaining traction.

Overcoming challenges

Despite its rapid growth, the plus size clothing market still faces challenges that hinder its full potential. Discrepancies in sizing and limited retail availability remain significant barriers to accessibility for plus size consumers. However, the industry is actively addressing these challenges through initiatives such as customization options and inclusive marketing campaigns, aimed at creating a more welcoming and inclusive shopping experience for all.

Exciting developments are reshaping the landscape of the plus size clothing market, with inclusive fashion campaigns and ethical practices gaining momentum. Brands are increasingly embracing diversity in their marketing efforts, featuring models of all body types to promote a more inclusive image of fashion. Moreover, sustainability and ethical standards are becoming increasingly important to consumers, leading to the adoption of eco-friendly materials and fair labor practices within the industry.

Another notable trend is the growing popularity of plus size activewear, driven by the demand for inclusive fitness wear that combines style and functionality. Designers are creating trendy and supportive workout clothing for women of all sizes, catering to the diverse needs of consumers. This trend underscores the industry's commitment to inclusivity and reflects the growing importance of health and wellness in contemporary lifestyles.

Key market insights

In terms of geographical distribution, the United States leads the global plus size clothing market, accounting for 40 per cent of total sales in 2023. The United Kingdom follows closely behind, with a projected market share of around 14 per cent in the same year. Additionally, China, Japan, and South Korea are emerging as significant players in the market, with each country contributing to the industry's growth in its unique way.

Within the plus size clothing market, casual wear dominates, with a projected CAGR of 4.8 per cent until 2033. Moreover, the mid-priced segment is expected to maintain its dominance over the forecast period, catering to the diverse needs and preferences of plus size consumers.

Competitive landscape

Established fashion brands have recognized the potential of the plus size market and expanded their product offerings to include inclusive options. Leveraging their reputation and design expertise, these brands cater to the evolving preferences of plus size consumers, investing in market research to stay ahead of the curve.

Dedicated plus size brands focus exclusively on meeting the needs of plus size consumers, offering a wide range of well-fitting and stylish clothing options. By specializing in this segment, these brands provide personalized shopping experiences and cater to the unique challenges faced by plus size individuals.

The rise of e-commerce has opened up new opportunities for plus size clothing, with online retailers offering inclusive and convenient shopping experiences. Boutique and independent brands also play a significant role, providing consumers with unique designs and personalized touches that set them apart from mainstream fashion.

Influencers and body-positive advocates have become influential figures in the plus size clothing industry, launching their own clothing lines and collaborating with established brands. These collaborations promote inclusivity and diversity, helping to reshape societal perceptions of beauty and fashion.

The plus size clothing market is experiencing unprecedented growth, driven by changing attitudes towards body positivity and inclusivity. With evolving fashion norms and increased consumer awareness, the industry is poised for continued expansion in the coming years. By embracing diversity, sustainability, and innovation, stakeholders can capitalize on this growing market opportunity and create a more inclusive and equitable fashion landscape for all.

  

The merchandising arm of streaming platform Fancode,Fancode Shop has extended its licensing and merchandising partnership with the International Cricket Council (ICC) for another term.

The deal gives between the two entities gives Fancode the right to create the official fan merchandise and accessories for the ongoing ICC men’s T20 World Cup 2024 and upcoming ICC women’s T20 World Cup 2024.

The merchandise to be created includes t-shirts, polos, shorts, joggers, sweatshirts, vests, caps, bottles, keychains, coffee mugs, backpacks, tote bags, etc.

Prasana Krishnan, Co-founder, Fancode, says, the association will aim to make affordable and high-quality merchandise available to Indian fans. It will continue to provide fans with the most stylish fan gear to showcase their fandom.

Fancode Shop has also partnered with several retailers to make cricket merchandise available at airports in Mumbai, Ahmedabad, Delhi, Hyderabad, Kolkata, and Bengaluru.

  

The Confederation of Indian Textile Industry (CITI) has applaudedPrime Minister NarendraModifor being re-elected for the third consecutive time and also implementing beneficial schemes and policies for the textile sector.

In its last two terms, the government has introduced several beneficial schemes like the Production Linked Incentive (PLI) scheme for textiles, the National Technical Textiles Mission, and also reinforced ongoing support for MSMEs toboost the industry’s growth, says RakeshMehra, Chairman, CITI

CITI also reinforced its commitment to support the government in its efforts to transform India into a global textiles and apparel hub. The organisation will work closely with government in foster innovation, sustainability and competitiveness within the textile sector, adds Mehra.

The organisation’s robust partnership with the government will help address challenges being faced by the industry, such as raw material security, etc, and achieve sustainable growth, he adds further.

  

Premium lifestyle brand Napapijri has launched a new collection of sustainable summer essentials manufactured using Good Earth Cotton, a production system known for net zero emissions.

Available online and in select stores from June 06, 2024, the collection comprises premium knitwear such as T-shirts, polos,etc for men, women and kids.

Powered by FibreTrace® technology, the Napapijri Good Earth Cotton range allows consumers to experience supply chain sustainability and integrity firsthand. They can trace the garment’s journey form soil to store by simply scanning a QR code, saysDani Statham, Founder, Good Earth Cotton.

Each product in Napapijri’s Good Earth Cotton range comes with a QR code on the label that can be scanned to display the products supply chain journey from fiber to store. The FibreTracetechnology enables the brand to validate the data of the raw cotton fiber and sustainability improvements through the supply chain.

The partnership between Napapijri and Good Earth Cotton highlights the brand’s aim to source 100 percent of its materials from regenerative, responsibly sourced, renewable or recycled sources by 2030. The product and design teams of the two companies work together to explore new possibilities in the textile industry, adds Silvia Onofri, President, Napapijri.

The Australian-grown Good Earth Cotton program focuses on regenerative farming that improves soil health, enhances biodiversity and sequesters carbon ensuring that it not only has a neutral impact on the environment but net positive one.

Fostering a regenerative approach for a positive impact on the earth, the Good Earth Cotton program uses the FibreTrace technology to verify fiber integrity.The fiber is verified using a unique signature created by inserting luminescent pigments into the raw cotton.

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