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This analysis of the Moscow Fashion Week presentations reveals several key trends in Russian fashion for the season:
1. Reinterpreted tradition
Modern designers are drawing inspiration from historical clothing and traditional wear, incorporating elements into contemporary silhouettes. (e.g., Abzaeva, MEASURE)
This reimagination often involves a fusion of different eras and cultures, resulting in unique and layered pieces. (e.g., MEASURE)
2. Bold femininity
The focus is on strong and confident women with collections that exude sensuality and a touch of rebellion. (e.g., LI LAB, VESTIAIRE)
This is achieved through elements like corsets, figure-hugging silhouettes, daring cuts, and high slits. (e.g., LI LAB, BEENA)
3. Playful romance
Alongside the bold statements, there's a softer side to the trends with designers incorporating ruffles, lace, and floral motifs. (e.g., ZA_ZA, MaisonESVE)
This romantic theme is often balanced with modern elements or unexpected pairings for a fresh look. (e.g., TOOMATCH)
4. Sustainable and upcycled fashion
Environmental consciousness is reflected in the use of recycled materials and upcycling techniques. (e.g., by/DAS/)
Designers are finding innovative ways to breathe new life into existing materials, creating unique and sustainable pieces.
5. Textured fabrics and layering:
Designers are experimenting with various textures and layering to add depth and visual interest to their collections. (e.g., MEASURE, DARYA KIPRIYANOVA)
This can involve combining different fabrics, using sheer elements, and employing intricate layering techniques.
6. Monochromatic palettes
Black and white continue to be prominent colors, offering a timeless and sophisticated look. (e.g., KISSELENKO, BEENA)
However, other designers are using bold color palettes and vibrant hues for a statement-making effect. (e.g., LUTANI, VASSA&Co)
7. Futuristic elements
Some designers are incorporating futuristic elements into their collections, with a focus on unconventional cuts and technological materials. (e.g., IMK, SOLANGEL)
This trend is often paired with bold colors and dramatic silhouettes for a space-age aesthetic.
8. Gender fluidity
Several collections blur the lines between traditional menswear and womenswear silhouettes. (e.g., SASHINA DESIGNER LABEL)
This reflects a move towards a more fluid and inclusive approach to fashion.
9. Focus on practicality
Alongside the avant-garde pieces, there's an emphasis on comfortable and practical clothing for the modern woman. (e.g., VESTIAIRE)
Designers are incorporating elements like versatility and functionality into their garments.
10. Artisanal details
Handcrafted elements, intricate embroidery, and unique embellishments add a personal touch and elevate the collections. (e.g., Gerda Irène, LESEL)
This focus on craftsmanship highlights the individuality and artistry within the fashion industry.
These trends showcase the diverse and innovative spirit of contemporary Russian fashion. Designers are drawing inspiration from various sources, experimenting with materials and silhouettes, and pushing the boundaries of traditional styles. Moscow Fashion Week serves as a platform for these emerging talents and established brands to present their unique visions and shape the future of fashion.
The recently concluded Moscow Fashion Week (MFW), held from March 1st to 8th, 2024, surprised the fashion world with its focus on Modest Fashion, drawing inspiration from Islamic traditions and principles. This international platform served as a launchpad for over 120 designers, not just from Russia, but also from 10 other countries including Egypt, Tunisia, Indonesia, China, India and South Africa. The event showcased a diverse range of creative expressions that all adhered to the concept of modest dressing.
A spotlight on modest fashion
Russian brands like ZUHAT and MEASURE, both hailing from the Muslim region of Dagestan, along with Indonesian designer IRMASARI JOEDAWINATA, presented collections that beautifully captured the essence of Islamic modesty. MEASURE offered a fresh take on Muslim sartorial traditions with its use of intricate layering and rich textures. ZUHAT drew inspiration from vintage photographs, resulting in a unique and timeless collection. IRMASARI JOEDAWINATA presented an ocean-inspired line, reflecting the growing popularity of modest fashion with a nautical twist.
Arab designers mark their presence
The runway wasn't just limited to Russian talent. MFW also featured prominent Arab designers, each showcasing their cultural heritage through their collections. Anissa Aida from Tunisia presented pieces that harmonized classic Arab silhouettes with a touch of architectural finesse. In contrast, Egyptian designer Alia Abaza championed tranquility through her collection of timeless designs. Waseem Khadra, another designer from Egypt, presented a line inspired by the diversity of society, prioritizing comfort and integrity in his pieces .
A global fashion event
MFW wasn't just about the clothes; it was a star-studded affair that attracted celebrities and fashion enthusiasts from all over the world . The legendary Italian actress Ornella Muti graced the event to support her daughter, influencer Naike Rivelli, who walked the runway for the Russian label Maison ESVE . Chinese actress Lily Ji, known for her roles in Pacific Rim: Uprising and Skiptrace, presented her own collection of traditional, centuries-old Chinese gowns, celebrating her cultural heritage . Turkish actress Gizem Karaca (Safir) was also spotted amongst the attendees.
Beyond the Runway
MFW offered more than just designer showcases. It provided a platform for over 300 boutiques from Russia to connect with new design talents through a dedicated showroom setting . The event was live-streamed to a global audience
A non-profit organisation operating under the auspices of the Apparel Export Promotion Council (AEPC), The India Knit Fair Association (IKFA) plans to organise the 51st editon of its India International Knit Fair from September 04-06, 2024, at the IKFA complex in Tirupur.
Under the theme ‘Preserving our Planet by Innovation and Circularity; the fair serves as a pivotal platform for fostering connections, exploring business opportunities, and forging significant partnerships. Held within the association’s own permanent complex, equipped with international-standard amenities, the 51st edition of the fair promises to unveil a fresh array of the latest designs in high-fashion knitwear for men, women, children, as well as active and sportswear garments.
In collaboration with prominent industry entities such as BAA, BSL, ABAT, and NIFT-A, IKFA has extended invitations to their members and buying agents to attend the event. Additionally, outreach efforts encompass disseminating fair information to overseas buyers, buying houses, and agents sourced from our extensive database and other channels.
The President of the Northern India Manmade Fibre Manufacturers Association (NITMA), Sanjay Garg, applauded the Ministry of Textiles for implementing a Minimum Import Price (MIP) on synthetic knitted fabrics.
This move comes after consistent appeals from industry representatives regarding the surge of undervalued imported fabrics. The DGFT notification, effective immediately, sets a minimum import price of $ 3.50 per kg on five specific HS codes of synthetic knitted fabrics. This measure will remain in place until September 15, 2024.
Earlier this year, during a meeting with industry representatives, Commerce and Industry Minister Piyush Goyal assured them of addressing the issue within a few months. The recent decision follows a meeting chaired by the Trade Advisor of the Ministry of Textiles to discuss the matter further.
Garg highlighted NITMA's year-long efforts in urging relevant ministries to address the problem of underpriced imported knitted fabrics. He commended the MIP implementation, which will effectively curb the import of low-priced, dumped fabrics. This decision is expected to provide much-needed relief to the domestic industry that has been impacted for years.
Garg emphasized the significance of MIP in safeguarding the domestic Man-Made Fibers (MMF) industry and ensuring a fair market for all stakeholders. He called for upholding these standards to promote growth, innovation, and prosperity within the Indian textile sector.
China's dominance in the global yarn market was reaffirmed recently by the Shanghai Yarn Expo, which drew international participation from March 6 to 8. However, the post-Covid era has brought significant changes to the industry, presenting both challenges and opportunities.
Challenges for China
Rising costs of yarn imports: Global raw cotton prices have surged, leading to a significant increase in imported yarn prices, particularly cotton yarn. A report by Textile Exchange indicates a 25 per cent increase in cotton prices year-on-year (YoY) as of December 2023. This trend is expected to continue in the short term, outpacing domestic yarn price hikes in China.
Falling profits for overseas mills: High cotton prices are squeezing profits for yarn mills in countries like Vietnam and Pakistan, traditionally major exporters to China. "We're seeing Vietnamese mills struggling to maintain margins," said a yarn manufacturer at the recent Yarn Expo in Shanghai, highlighting the need for these mills to find alternative markets or transition to blended yarns.
Resistance to high-cost yarn in China: Downstream Chinese weaving mills, which use yarn to produce fabrics, are hesitant to accept the high prices of imported yarn. This resistance could lead to a shift towards domestically produced yarn. The high import prices are simply not sustainable for our production," said a representative of a Chinese weaving company. "We're looking at domestically produced yarn more seriously now.”
What it means for China, India and Pakistan
China: Downstream mills in China might prioritize domestic yarn or delay purchases, waiting for import prices to stabilize. This presents an opportunity for domestic yarn producers like Shanghai DiW, which have ramped up production and can offer competitive pricing. However, high domestic cotton prices remain a challenge. We've seen a significant increase in demand for our yarn lately," says a spokesperson for Shanghai DiW, "particularly due to the price advantage compared to imports." While domestic yarn prices initially rose, they have since corrected, making them even more attractive.”
India & Pakistan: These major yarn exporters face dampened demand from China, their primary market. While some Indian mills are offering yarn at break-even prices in hopes of tax benefits, Pakistani mills might have a temporary buffer due to earlier export orders placed before the price hike. However, the overall reduced demand from China is impacting their current export opportunities.
Others: Yarn exporters from Vietnam and Indonesia are also feeling the pinch of rising cotton prices. These countries are now exploring alternative markets or focusing on blended yarn production to stay competitive.
Emerging opportunities
Cost-effectiveness is king: Both domestic and overseas mills are prioritizing cost-effective production. This focus has led to increased competition and a rise in the popularity of domestically produced yarn in China, particularly Xinjiang cotton yarn, which offers a price and quality advantage.
Diversification and innovation: Overseas mills are exploring blended yarn production and niche markets to differentiate themselves. This trend allows them to cater to specific customer needs and potentially command premium prices.
Technological advancements: Domestic yarn producers like Shanghai DiW are investing in advanced equipment to reduce production costs and improve efficiency. This focus on innovation will be crucial for maintaining competitiveness in the long run.
The shifting yarn landscape in China presents both challenges and opportunities. While rising cotton prices pose a threat to profitability, the industry is adapting with a focus on cost-effectiveness, diversification, and technological advancements. These trends will likely shape the future of the global yarn market.
China's domestic apparel market is poised for recover in 2024. With Government policies supporting consumption, stable employment, and income growth are expected to boost consumer confidence. Furthermore, expansion into second-tier markets and the emergence of new consumer groups and trends are likely to drive market vitality.
In 2024, China’s apparel market is expected to remain stable, with increased inventory driving demand in developed countries and emerging markets, alongside the growth of cross-border e-commerce. However, challenges will continue to persist, including trade tensions, geopolitical risks, and the potential impact of currency fluctuations.
In 2023, China's clothing industry faced a complex and challenging external environment marked by global economic slowdown and reduced international market demand. The industrial added value of apparel enterprises declined by 7.6 per cent, with garment production falling by 8.69 per cent. However, the retail sales of apparel showed resilience, growing by 15.4 per cent driven by events like the Singles Day shopping carnival.
Despite this, apparel exports decreased by 7.8 per cent, with declines in major markets like the United States and the European Union, though some growth was observed in regions along the Belt and Road.
Investment in fixed assets decreased by 2.2 per cent, but digital transformation accelerated, focusing on intelligent equipment, factory construction, and supply chain optimisation. Despite a 5.4 per cent decline in main business income, the operating margin improved slightly to 5.07 per cent, though 20.8 percent of enterprises operated at a deficit.
Internationally, apparel exports faced challenges due to trade protectionism and geopolitical risks, alongside increased competition from Southeast and South Asian countries. Domestically, however, China's economic stabilisation and policies promoting consumption fueled optimism. With stable employment and income growth, consumer confidence remained robust.
Blending style with performance, H&M Move unveiled its latest collection featuring StormMove technology and expressive silhouettes. Offering everything from functional jackets to performance skirts, the collection is made using lab-tested fabrics and a high proportion of recycled materials.
Focusing on consumers’ comfort, the performance-driven collection is endowned with features like technical detailing, lightweight practicality and fashion-forward aesthetics. Mfon Boman, Outdoor Product Manager, H&M Move says, catering to diverse needs, the affordable hiking collection allows customers to move around as they please with comfort.
The collection showcases H&M Move’s commitment to sustainability and innovation through its lab-tested and performance-proven fabric innovations. Windproof, waterproof, and lightweight StormMove™ technology, ThermoMove warmth, and DryMove’s breathable, sweat-wicking capabilities ensure enhanced comfort and functionality.
Upcoming fashion trends and the brand’s culture of adventure infuse the collection with personality, resulting in standout performance pieces characterised by generous and expressive silhouettes. A few of the notable items in the collection include the StormMove™ rain parka, a water-repellent zip-off skirt, warm bomber jackets crafted from 100 per cent recycled polyamide, and a remarkably lightweight shell competing with premium industry leaders.
The collection’s earthy color palette, including light stone, sandy beige, moss, mauve, and charcoal, is complemented by bold high-tech details like 3D pockets, mesh ventilation systems, and taped seams. Carabiners add practicality for outdoor adventurers of all backgrounds, shapes, sizes, and abilities.
Available for both men and women in sizes ranging from XS to XL, the H&M Move hike collection emphasises accessibility and sustainability. It invites movement and style while ensuring comfort for all. The collection launched in-store and online on March 14, 2024, with prices starting at £21.99.
Driven by their enhanced functionality, competitive pricing and sustainability credentials, fashion markets across the globe are pivoting towards non-cotton materials, as per a recent study by Wazir Advisors.
There is a burgeoning demand for a diverse array of fibers like polyester and nylon, regenerated fibers such as viscose rayon, animal fibers like wool and silk, as well as other vegetable fibers like linen.
Around 75 per cent of global apparel consumption and 57.5 per cent of textile trade worldwide now comprise non-cotton materials, according to the report. However, despite this, the proportion of non-cotton apparel in the export portfolio of countries historically lagged behind. Encouragingly, there's been a notable uptick in this figure, with the share of non-cotton apparel in export from some countries, including Bangladesh, rising to 30 per cent in the last three years.
Faruque Hassan, President, Bangladesh Garment Manufacturers and Exporters Association (BGMEA), highlights, since 2021, the association has spearheaded three research initiatives geared towards envisioning future growth prospects.
Notably, one such initiative resulted in the launch of a comprehensive report titled ‘Establishing a Virtual Marketplace Platform for the Apparel Sector’ by LightCastle Partners.
Faruque Hassan underscores the industry’s vision to elevate its share in the global market from the current 7.87 per cent to 12 per cent by 2030, with an export target of $100 billion. However, achieving this demands departing from conventional business models, he adds.
The recent surge in investments in non-cotton sectors signals a promising trajectory for the industry. Yet, challenges loom large, including dependence on imported raw materials, technology gaps, skill shortages, and the need for substantial capital and energy investments.
In response, experts advocate for a strategic roadmap that would help galvanise manufacturers, investors, policymakers, development partners, and other stakeholders towards establishing a robust foothold in the non-cotton textile and apparel market.
In a bid to fortify domestic manufacturing and mitigate the inundation of low-cost imports, the Central government has introduced a Minimum Import Price (MIP) on specific categories of synthetic knitted fabrics. Implemented under the Foreign Trade (Development & Regulation) Act, 1992, and in alignment with the Foreign Trade Policy, 2023, this measure aims to establish equitable conditions for indigenous producers.
Effective immediately, revisions to the import policy and conditions have been instituted for designated ITC (HS) codes falling under Chapter 60 of the ITC (HS) 2022. The affected HS codes encompass various forms of synthetic knitted fabrics, including unbleached, bleached, dyed, yarn of different colors, and printed varieties. Importation of these categories is now restricted unless the CIF value exceeds $ 3.50 per kg.
The imposition of this minimum import price seeks to curb the influx of cheaper imports and shield the interests of domestic manufacturers. The reinstatement of the prior ‘Free’ import policy is slated for September 16, 2024, barring explicit amendments in subsequent notifications.
Anticipated ramifications span across the textile sector, with manufacturers and traders bracing for adjustments in pricing strategies and sourcing patterns. The government's decision underscores its dedication to nurturing indigenous production capacities and fostering an enabling environment for domestic industries. It emphasizes the pivotal role of trade policies in safeguarding domestic stakeholders while fostering sustainable economic development.
In the first two months of 2024, Vietnam’s textile and garment exports surged by 15 per cent Y-o-Y to $5.2 billion, indicating the industry’s pivotal shift towards green production practices to meet the discerning standards of import markets. As reported by the General Statistics Office, this sector secured the fourth position among top foreign currency earners during this period.
Than Duc Viet, General Director, Garment 10 Corporation, says, it has become mandatory for manufacturers to embrace green production methodologies to ensure sustainable exports. Over the past three years, his company has embarked on a transformative journey, updating machinery with energy-efficient alternatives, implementing rooftop solar power systems, and forging partnerships to incorporate recycled and natural materials into their processes. Moreover, efforts to mitigate carbon emissions, such as substituting coal-derived inputs with biomass alternatives, have been central to their eco-friendly agenda. Viet anticipates that upon the full implementation of their initiatives in 2024, Garment 10's operations will reduce carbon emissions by over 20,000 tons.
The global fashion landscape is witnessing a paradigm shift, with major brands pledging to adopt recycled, natural, and circular materials by 2050. Consequently, international purchasers are recalibrating their supply chains to align with sustainability objectives. According to Prof Dr Andreas Stoffers, Country Director, Friedrich Naumann Foundation for Freedom in Vietnam, the European Union (EU) stands as a pivotal export market for Vietnam's textile and garment industry.
However, the EU views this sector as a significant contributor to environmental degradation, prompting stringent green measures.
Economist Dinh Trong Thinh underscores the challenges faced by small and medium-sized enterprises (SMEs) in adopting costly and time-intensive green standards. To address this, Thinh advocates for governmental support through favorable credit policies to incentivise green investment and production, he adds.
