FW
Indonesia, having largest Muslim population in the world is on the way to become the global Islamic fashion capital, especially for Muslim women. Indonesia has a population of over 250 million, of which 85 per cent are Muslims. Indonesian Muslim women, including young girls, are increasingly wearing Islamic clothing as they are fashionable, decent, practical and comfortable.
According to Deputy Minister of Cooperatives and SMEs Emilia Suhaimi, Indonesia is designated to emerge as the worlds Islamic fashion capital by 2020, and that the country is close to achieving that target. Besides being the largest Muslim populated country in the world, says Suhaini, Indonesia’s Islamic culture is open to modernisation, tolerance, pluralism and diversity.
Malls and shops specializing in selling Islamic clothing are also on the rise in Jakarta and other cities such as Thamrin City, Tanah Abang, and Cempaka Mas Malls. Specific shops offering high-quality Islamic fashion are the Shafira, Al-Fira, Al-Misa, Kisa, Zara, Zahra, and Rabbani, among others. And online shops like Hijabenka HijUp, Saqina, Muslimarket, Zoya, Zalora, Elzatta, Idhijab, Rahma o-shop, Artizara, Inayah, and Modanisa are now actively retailing Muslim fashion. Islamic fashion shows are also organised in the city every year to promote the domestic Islamic fashion industry at the international level.
Such events include Indonesian Muslim Fashion Week (IMFW) which was organised in Bandung, West Java, from July 18-20, 2014, the annual International Indonesian Islamic Fashion Fair held in September 2015 at the Jakarta Convention Center (JCC) organised by the Indonesia Islamic Fashion Consortium (IIFC). Muslim fashion designers from the country also participate in overseas exhibitions.
The sector will be worth $327 billion by 2020, according to the State of the Global Islamic Economy report. The 1.6 billion Muslim consumers spent $266 billion on clothing in 2013, and are projected to spend $484 billion by 2019, according to a report by Thomson Reuters and Dinar Standard, a Muslim market research firm.
Nearly one lakh workers have been rendered jobless in West Bengal due to the raw jute crisis. Malay Ghatak, a joint representation of mills to state Labour Minister, said that until now 12 jute mills have closed down due to which almost one lakh workers have lost their jobs. Already a huge number of mills have cut down production and worker surplus is increasing in each mill sated the joint representation letter. The Jute Packaging Material (Compulsory Use in Packing Commodities) Act, 1987 (JPM Act, 1987), which was aimed at saving workers and farmers has gone wayward.
In wake of lower supply by the jute mills, which is due to the shortage of raw jute, the Ministry of Textiles has diluted the mandatory jute packaging material. The belief that production could be low due to bad weather conditions and poor rainfall is one of the main reasons for this hoarding and speculation in raw jute by a few mills and some unscrupulous stockists and traders.
The Jute Commissioner's office is yet to launch any anti-hoarding drive under Jute and Jute Textile Control Order 2000 informed the jute mills. It is yet to take steps to regulate and limit stock and price of raw jute to control speculating operation and prevent unfair trade practices.
PBT fiber is a new polyester fiber and many apparel manufacturers are now opting for it. The elastic recovery ratio of PBT fiber is better than that of polyester and nylon fibers but lower than that of spandex. With good rigidity, shape stability and wool-like touch, PBT fiber has potential in application of wool textiles.
Spandex core-spun covered yarn is a kind of woven yarn mainly used in woven denim and polar fleece. The applications of PBT core-spun covered yarn and spandex core-spun covered yarn are thus different. PBT core-spun covered yarn is not an alternative for spandex core-spun covered yarn. The equipments of the two yarns are the same. Profits of spandex core-spun covered yarn are apparently lower than that of PBT core-spun covered yarn. So plants prefer PBT core-spun covered yarn. Spandex sales will inevitably be hit.
More spandex covered yarn plants in China are opting to produce this yarn.PBT yarn is weft knitted to produce autumn or winter sweaters. In China the plants that have switched production to PBT yarn are mainly small processing plants while the larger ones are relatively cautious. Some spandex core-spun covered yarn plants with relatively good profits have not switched production yet, but more are about to step into the wave due to successive good performance of PBT core-spun covered yarn.
Bluesign technologies presented the new resource productivity calculator at ITMA in Milano. Launched in collaboration with leading textile industry earlier in July 2015, resource productivity calculator can help manufacturers find out how their processes can be optimised in terms of resource savings and environmental impact using intelligent process technology and smart chemistry from verified chemical suppliers.
Resource optimization in focus
The web-based application enables textile manufacturers to save resources, time and costs and reducing the impact to the environment and people at the same time. Conditions existing in textile factories as well as specific chemicals and materials used are considered, and can be compared to BAT (Best Available Technique) processes. The benchmarks show savings and environmental impact immediately and give a well-grounded basis for decision-making. The use of intelligent processes and smart chemistry can reduce the consumption of water by 50 per cent, energy by 30 per cent and chemicals by 15 per cent.
Bluesign system is the solution for a sustainable textile production. It eliminates harmful substances right from the beginning of the manufacturing process and sets and controls standards for an environmentally friendly and safe production. This not only ensures that the final textile product meets very stringent consumer safety requirements worldwide but also provides confidence to the consumer to acquire a sustainable product.
“Bluesign is about managing the system of risk about hazardous chemicals, people, environment, resources. We act as an independent third party company and don’t want to control. Instead we want to promote knowledge so that industry has the ability to manage risk themselves”, says Christian Dreszig, Head Marketing, Management and Customer relation Management, Bluesign. He adds, “When industry reaslises it is in their advantage then we don’t have to control”. Bluesign has managed to change the thinking of industry, has added to the knowledge and also proved to the industry that the system works in practice, it has already become industry standard for outerwear industry.”
Talking about future trends, he says sustainability will be a global business trend and not just a fashion trend. Industry has to prepare itself, demand will only increase. Of course, as of now Europe and the US are more sensitive to this but it is matter of time, China has realized and they have come with a new law, so I believe rest will follow”, says Dreszig.
Founded in 2000, Bluesign system has been adopted by worldwide 80 leading textile chemical companies, 5,000 supply chain companies and well known brands of outdoor, sportswear and fashion industry like Nike, Puma, Adidas, Pantogonia, Northface, Vaude and more.
A mega apparel park is coming up in Pakistan’s Punjab province spread over 1,567 acres of land. Once complete this will result in creating job opportunities for lakhs of people. The project will also result in an increase in exports of textile and garment sector. It will help develop quality and skilled manpower for the textile and garment sectors. A labor colony, textile institute, commercial center, exhibition center and a hospital will also come up in the vicinity of the park. The park will have a modern technical center.
Pakistan is setting up textile parks in the cotton belt in collaboration with world renowned companies. China has been very active in setting up textile parks in Pakistan. The Chinese are setting up composite textile parks having spinning, weaving and garment units as well as viscose plants. This is aimed at helping Pakistan avail of the benefits of modern technology and technical skills that are currently practiced in the Chinese textile sector.
The Chinese would use delinters to remove cotton seed from lint to produce viscose that is the best manmade fiber having characteristics similar to those of cotton fiber. This will usher the local textile industry into the new era of value-added products.
Turkey’s cotton crop will fall by 17 per cent this season. The fall in production is the result of lower planting which is at 3,70,000 hectares, down from 4,30,000 hectares in the previous season. Rains had also adversely affected during the picking season. There was an increase in support price of cotton this season but the announcement came late, hence had limited effect on farmers’ planting decisions.
The fall in cotton crop is estimated to help boost import demand. Turkey is the world’s second largest cotton buyer. Moreover Turkey has been carrying out an antidumping investigation against imports from the United States. There are fears the investigation may impose retroactive duties on importers of US products. The Turkish textile industry hopes the investigation will be finalised without any anti dumping duties. It feels such a move will make Turkish textile exports more expensive and will cause Turkish products to lose market share in international markets.
Cotton grown in Turkey is of the upland type, whose lint characteristics have proved to suitable for most textile applications. Various attempts to grow long staple cotton have so far produced limited success. Therefore, there will always be a need by the Turkish textile industry to import long and extra-long staple cotton.
Cotton imports have become a necessity for Turkey to meet the increased demand from the booming textile and garment sector.
Many garment factories in Bangladesh are yet to be equipped with safe exit facilities, leaving workers vulnerable to fires. Most factories do not have a safe exit. They do not have fire protected doors. They have collapsible gates and gates that shut automatically.
Buildings without fire-proof exit stairs, including fire doors, which swing in the direction of exit are death traps. Exit paths are not accessible at all times. About 55.2 per cent of 32 platinum factories in Bangladesh that produce apparel products for Swedish retailer H&M still have sliding doors and collapsible gates. Over 60 per cent of factories lack fire-preventive doors and staircases.
It has been proved that installation of fire-rated doors and enclosure of stairwells is perhaps the single most important step a factory can take to prevent workers from being killed in a fire. Alliance, a retailers’ group from North America, says almost all its listed factories need fire doors. It has expressed concern over the slow progress in remediation in line with the action plans.
The only sign of change is that though garment factories still use collapsible gates, the tendency of keeping those locked during work hours has decreased to some extent.
Sustainability is a buzz-word across the textile and clothing industries the world over. Players are increasingly investing energies in making their supply chains as well as end products green. Now brands are turning to recycled feathers recovered from old blankets and pillows for their new collections.
This year, two outdoor clothing manufacturers introduced winter ranges made with recycled down feathers in the US market. Spanish brand Ternua and American company Nau both have unveiled jackets and vests featuring feathers extracted from old blankets and pillows. While such items have been common in the European market for a last couple of years, even the American market seems to be adopting this trend.
Concerns about the ethical side of down production have been on the rise especially because of live-plucking of the birds for high-quality winter clothing products. However, experts feel that usage of recycled feathers is emerging as a viable solution. However, some players argue that the process of cleaning required for recycled down is similar to that of the new down.
www.nau.com
Taiwan Textile Federation (TTF) in collaboration with Bangladesh Knitwear Manufacturers and Exporters Association (BKMEA) organised Taiwan Textile Fair South Asia-2015 on Novemeber 23, 2015 showcasing latest fibres, yarns, fabrics and apparels from Taiwan.
The aim of this two day textile fair is to introduce Taiwanese innovations like value-added fibers, yarns, fabrics, trimmings and apparels to the industry in Bangladesh. The creativity and functionality of Taiwanese textile products have long been recognized by international designers, brands, importers and retailers in all major importing countries.
The fair was inaugurated by Shubhashish Bose, Vice-Chairman of Export Promotion Bureau (EPB). BKMEA second vice president Mansoor Ahmed and Taiwan External Trade Development Council (TAITRA) Dhaka office Director Danny Yang were also present during the inauguration programme. After the inauguration, Bose said that Taiwan is very crucial for Bangladesh as the two countries are major RMG product producers of the world. Taiwan exported garment products worth $31 billion last year while the country has set a $33 billion target for the next fiscal.
Taiwan Textile Fair of fabrics and accessories is a gateway to business matchmaking opportunities between top apparel manufacturers and exporters of Bangladesh and fabric and accessory manufacturers from Taiwan. The fair is showcasing a wide variety of products ranging from Raschel knitting lace, functional active-casual fabric, texture fabric, double knit fleece, R+Spandex jersey, garment trims and accessories like buttons, snap buttons, jean buttons, rivets, eyelets, single and double knit fabric, acrylic yarn, technical stretch fabric, tweed fabric, lightweight fabric, bi-stretch fabric and many other innovations.
www.ttf.wordexindia.com
As per the figures provided by the organisers of recently concluded ITMA 2015, Indian visitors were second in number followed by the hosting country. Rajinder Gupta, Chairman of the Trident group represented Ludhiana at ITMA textile machinery exhibition. According to him, the world’s leading machinery exhibition succeeded in bringing a host of sustainable, energy efficient and less labour-intensive machinery, which is the need of the day.
According to him, green practises and efforts towards sustainable future are becoming important for companies, ITMA was able to fulfil their requirements by displaying equipment for recycling, waste reduction and pollution prevention. Exhibitors showcasing such machineries received an enthused response from visitors for innovations such as spinning machinery or design and data monitoring software. He is now looking forward to the next edition of ITMA to be held in Barcelona, Spain, from June 20 to 26, 2019.
Gupta is of the opinion that over the years, players would start focusing more on low input costs, low wastage and, usage of less labour-intensive machinery for growth and to compete with its rivals. He demanded that to uplift and modernise the textile sector, especially the MSME segment, the government needs to announce new schemes and incentives along with the existing Technology upgradation fund scheme (TUF) to assist players in easily upgrading their production units.
www.itma.com
