Coterie New York, the biannual event spotlighting contemporary and advanced contemporary women's fashion, has announced its lineup of exhibiting brands, trends, and neighborhoods for the upcoming show, scheduled for September 22-24 at the JavitsCenter.

This season, nearly 40 per cent of the featured brands will hail from international designers, including Veja, Missoni, Rucoline, Farm Rio Footwear, and Alemais. These will be showcased alongside prominent American labels such as 7 for All Mankind, AG Jeans, Beyond Yoga, Jade Swim, Rebag, and Favorite Daughter.

Purvi Kanji, VP of Coterie, highlighted that Coterie New York serves as a global hub for both established and emerging designers, with the upcoming event set to feature fresh trends for Spring/Summer 2025 and a strong emphasis on technology, sustainability, and woman-owned brands.

The event will also introduce the International Guest Buyer Program in collaboration with Modem, fostering connections between international buyers and participating brands. This inaugural edition will host 13 prestigious stores from Italy and France, with support from the Camera Buyer Italia (CBI).

With over 750 brands on display, the event will attract top retailers including Anthropologie, Saks Fifth Avenue, Moda Operandi, and Rent the Runway, reinforcing its status as a key player in the global fashion market.

Taking a significant step forward in its retail refresh initiative, Foot Locker has reopened its Manhattan Herald Square store on 34th Street. The sneaker retailer unveiled the newly revamped 13,000-sq-ft store this week. It has been designed to align with Foot Locker’s broader retail enhancement strategy. The updated store features a modern interior design, a communal shoe try-on area, digital shopping enhancements, and a dedicated “sneaker hub” for personalized assistance.

A standout feature of the Herald Square location is the introduction of Foot Locker ‘Home Court,’ a specialised area developed in collaboration with Nike and Jordan Brand. This space showcases Foot Locker’s extensive range of basketball sneakers and celebrates basketball’s pivotal role in sneaker culture. The area also includes immersive experiences like a digital vertical jump challenge and advanced 3D foot-scanning technologies, ensuring customers find the perfect fit.

The Herald Square store also debuts Foot Locker’s new Kids Foot Locker experience, featuring a kid-friendly custom shoe scan station, an activity table, and an expanded selection of basketball merchandise for children.

This reimagined store is part of Foot Locker’s strategic Lace-Up plan, introduced in March 2023, to refresh its entire store fleet. The plan includes closing over 400 stores, including around 125 underperforming Champs locations, while expanding the WSS brand to more than 300 locations.

In addition to the Herald Square store, Foot Locker recently opened another revamped location in Paris ahead of the Summer Olympics and plans to open a similar store in Melbourne, Australia, in October. The company is also partnering with Metro Brands to launch its first Foot Locker store in Delhi, India.

Following the bankruptcy of Esprit's European operations in Germany on May 15, Boulogne-Billancourt-based Esprit de Corp France has also entered into administration. This decision was announced by the Nanterre Commercial Court on July 18,

Esprit Europe and six other German subsidiaries filed for bankruptcy in May this year. The brand’s owner attempted to revitalise Esprit in 2023 by infusing new creative energy from the United States, with the goal to upgrade the brand’s image. However, these efforts fell short.

The brand’s subsidiaries in Switzerland and Belgium, where it operates stores, had already filed for bankruptcy in March and April, respectively.

Esprit cited multiple challenges contributing to its financial difficulties, including high costs driven by inflation, rising interest rates, and increased energy prices, along with the lingering effects of the coronavirus pandemic and the impact of international conflicts. These challenges were further compounded by legacy costs like high rents and poorly sized stores, explains the company.

In 2022, Esprit de Corp France generated a turnover exceeding €40 million and managed to break even, employing 132 people at the time. The company has been granted a six-month observation period, but the outlook remains uncertain as the brand struggles to attract international buyers.

Bluesign has announced that ERCA, a leader in innovative chemical solutions for the textile industry, is now Brazil's first Bluesignsystem partner. This partnership marks a significant milestone in Bluesign's global expansion, further establishing its presence across multiple continents.

ERCA, part of the ERCA Group with operations in Europe, Latin America, and Asia, is known for its commitment to sustainability and responsible innovation. The company's revolutionary Revecol range, which transforms waste materials like exhausted vegetable oil into high-performance textile solutions, is Bluesign approved.

SidneiMaturano, President of ERCA Brazil, expressed pride in this achievement, stating, "Becoming a Bluesignsystem partner reflects our dedication to sustainability and responsible manufacturing. This certification ensures that our products are made using safe chemicals, aligning with the growing consumer demand for environmentally responsible products."

The partnership with Bluesignunderscores ERCA Brazil's commitment to reducing environmental impact, conserving resources, and improving energy efficiency. By adopting Bluesign’s rigorous standards, ERCA Brazil aims to minimize waste and enhance safety throughout its operations.

This collaboration not only highlights ERCA's leadership in Brazil but also strengthens Bluesign's influence in promoting sustainable practices worldwide. As Bluesign continues to expand its network of partners, it remains at the forefront of transforming the textile industry toward a more sustainable future.

For Q1, FY25 ending June 2024, net sales of Sutlej Textiles and Industries’ declined by 6.59 per cent Y-o-Y to Rs 658.07 crore as against Rs 704.48 crore recorded in the corresponding quarter last year.

However, despite this decline, the company managed to narrow its quarterly net loss, by 62.61 per cent Y-o-Y to Rs 11.40 crore in June 2024 from Rs 30.49 crore in June 2023.

Additionally, the company's EBITDA increased by 429.14 per cent Y-o-Y to Rs 25.24 crore in June 2024, up from Rs 4.77 crore in the corresponding quarter of the previous year.

On the Q-o-Q basis, the company’s net sales increased marginally from Rs 656.45 crore reported in Q4, FY24. Its net loss narrowed to Rs 25.55 crore

The Indian government has once again postponed the implementation of the Quality Control Order (QCO) on cotton, extending the deadline by another year. According to a recent notification issued by the Ministry of Textiles, the QCO will now be enforced from Aug 27, 2025 onwards. The order was originally scheduled to be implemented in 2023, but was first delayed until 2024, and has now been extended once more.

This extension was advocated by the Cotton Association of India (CAI) alongwith other industry bodies who argued that an immediate implementation of the QCO would prove impractical for the industry

The government has already enforced the QCO on polyester, viscose fiber, and other products. The delay in implementation of the order on cotton is also a result of the concerns raised by Indian ginning industry over the stringent norms set by the Bureau of Indian Standards (BIS) for moisture, trash content, and other quality specifications.

Predominantly comprising of Micro, Small, and Medium Enterprises (MSMEs), the Indian ginning industry faces significant challenges in meeting these standards. The QCO mandates substantial investment in modern machinery, but many of these units operate with basic, outdated equipment and struggle to upgrade their facilities.

The global apparel industry has experienced a year of mixed fortunes in 2024, with various brands and markets displaying a wide range of performances. While some brands have thrived amidst economic headwinds, others have struggled to maintain their footing. Luxury brands continued to shine, fast-fashion giants face headwinds, and emerging markets offer a glimmer of hope amidst economic uncertainties.

Luxury thrives, fast-fashion falters

High-end brands like LVMH, Kering (parent company of Gucci), and Hermès have consistently posted strong growth. LVMH, for instance, saw a 15 per cent increase in revenue in the first half of 2024, with its fashion and leather goods division leading the charge. This is attributed to robust demand from affluent consumers, particularly in China and the Middle East, who remain largely unaffected by economic fluctuations.

Conversely, fast-fashion retailers such as H&M and Zara have seen their profits squeezed due to a confluence of factors. For example, H&M's profits fell 20 per cent in the second quarter of 2024, as the company struggled to pass on higher costs to consumers. Rising production costs, increased competition from online retailers, and changing consumer preferences toward sustainability have all played a role.

Athletic & athleisure brands resilient

Athletic and athleisure brands like Nike and Lululemon continue to perform well, benefitting from the ongoing trend of health and wellness. In fact, brands like Nike and Adidas have sustained their growth momentum, thanks to the continued popularity of athleisure wear and a focus on product innovation and digital engagement. Nike's digital sales grew 30 per cent in the first quarter of 2024, highlighting the importance of e-commerce in the current retail environment. Nike's success in navigating the challenging market is largely attributed to its focus on digital transformation. By investing heavily in e-commerce and direct-to-consumer sales, the company has been able to mitigate the impact of declining foot traffic in physical stores. "Nike's digital strategy has allowed us to stay connected with consumers and drive growth even in a difficult retail environment," explains John Donahoe, CEO of Nike.

Table: Key brand performance metrics (H1 2024)

Market performance, regional disparities

The performance across regions have varied, the Chinese market for example has rebounded strongly in 2024, with pent-up demand following the easing of COVID-19 restrictions. This has benefited luxury brands and those with a strong presence in the country. Despite concerns about a slowing economy, demand for high-end goods remains robust.

The US and European market on the other hand has experienced a slowdown in 2024, with consumer spending impacted by inflation and economic uncertainty. This has particularly affected fast fashion brands reliant on price-sensitive shoppers. Even now, inflation and concerns about a potential recession are weighing on consumer sentiment. At the same time, emerging markets like India and Southeast Asia continue to offer growth opportunities for apparel brands, thanks to a growing middle class and increasing disposable incomes.

In India especially, international fast-fashion brands have seen tremendous success in India, capitalizing on the country's young and fashion-conscious population. H&M, Zara, and Uniqlo have all reported double-digit growth in the Indian market. "India is one of our fastest-growing markets, and we see tremendous potential for further expansion," says an H&M spokesperson.

Table: Key market performance metrics (H1 2024)

The outlook for the remainder of 2024 remains cautiously optimistic. Luxury brands are expected to continue their strong performance, while fast-fashion retailers will likely focus on cost-cutting measures and digital transformation to navigate the challenging environment. Emerging markets like India and Southeast Asia are expected to offer significant growth opportunities, while the US and European markets are likely to witness a gradual recovery.

In a move that has sent ripples through the fashion world and beyond, iconic denim brand Levi's has launched a sweepstakes offering a ‘lifetime supply of jeans’ to one lucky winner. The prize, valued at $21,000, consists of 70, $300 Levi's gift cards, ensuring the recipient can replenish their denim wardrobe for years to come.

The sweepstake

The mechanics are simple: participants entered online, sharing their Levi's love stories and why they deserved this denim dream. The prize: a personalized denim wardrobe, curated annually by Levi's stylists, ensuring winners were always at the forefront of denim fashion. The lucky winner wouldn't just get any jeans; they'd receive the latest styles, washes, and fits, ensuring their denim collection remained fresh and on-trend for life. "This is beyond a sweepstake; it's a legacy," said Levi's CEO, Chip Bergh. "We're not just giving away jeans; we're inviting someone into the Levi's family for life."

For many, the prospect of a lifetime supply of jeans is the ultimate dream. The sweepstakes has also generated buzz on social media, with countless users sharing their excitement and tagging friends. "Can you imagine never having to worry about buying jeans again?" tweeted one enthusiast.

Fashion industry experts have praised Levi's for its innovative approach to customer engagement. "This sweepstakes is a brilliant marketing move," said a retail analyst. "It generates excitement around the brand and reinforces its association with longevity and value." Some experts also see the sweepstakes as a reflection of the enduring appeal of denim. As they explain, jeans are a wardrobe staple that transcends trends. Levi's is tapping into that timeless quality with this promotion.

The fashion industry buzzed with excitement. Competitors watched with a mix of envy and admiration. "It's bold," admitted John Smith, a fashion editor. "But it's pure Levi's, capturing the essence of their brand: timeless, authentic, and undeniably cool." The ‘Lifetime Supply of Jeans’ sweepstake wasn't just a marketing gimmick; it was a celebration of Levi's heritage, a testament to the brand's enduring appeal. It captured the hearts and minds of denim lovers, solidifying Levi's position as the ultimate denim destination. More than just a prize, it was a promise of a lifetime of style, comfort, and the undeniable cool factor that only Levi's can deliver.

The European Union (EU) and Fiji have further solidified their trade relationship through the full implementation of the interim Economic Partnership Agreement (IEPA). This move was announced by ValdisDombrovskis, the European Commission's Executive Vice President, and ManoaKamikamica, Fiji's deputy Prime Minister for trade.

The IEPA, initially signed in 2009, is designed to promote sustainable development and facilitate Fiji’s integration into the global economy. Under the agreement, the EU has already eliminated customs duties and quotas on imports from Fiji. In return, Fiji has now committed to gradually phasing out duties on a select group of imports from EU Member States.

While tariffs will remain on certain imports to protect domestic industries, the agreement is expected to boost trade opportunities and enhance the competitiveness of Fijian products by providing access to cheaper inputs. The IEPA also supports cooperation on trade and investment, particularly through the EU’s 'Global Sourcing' provision, helping Fiji comply with EU market standards and improve its business environment.

This final phase of tariff liberalisation marks a significant step in strengthening and diversifying trade ties between the EU and Fiji.

Traditional denim production consumes enormous amounts of water, especially during the dyeing and aging processes. To address this, Shein partnered with NTX in 2021 to introduce Cool Transfer Printing, an innovative technology that drastically reduces the water footprint in denim manufacturing.

Unlike conventional methods that require multiple washes to achieve the desired look, Cool Transfer Printing digitally simulates these effects instantly, eliminating the need for water-intensive processes. As a result, Shein's suppliers have reduced water usage by 70.5 per cent, a figure verified by Bureau Veritas in October 2023.

This innovation not only conserves water but also enables on-demand production of stylish denim in a variety of colors and designs. The technology allows for direct digital printing with reactive ink, making the creation of intricate patterns more efficient and cost-effective.

By integrating Cool Transfer Printing into its agile supply chain, Shein offers a diverse range of affordable, sustainable denim products. The company remains committed to leveraging technology to create more eco-friendly production methods, bringing it closer to its sustainability goals.