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A pivotal global platform for change, the Better Cotton Conference 2024attracted over 400 participants from around the world, both in person and virtually.
Held from June 26-27, 2024 in Istanbul, Turkiye, the conference highlighted the need for collective action in the cotton industry, says Alan McClay, CEO, Better Cotton. Comprising 18 sessions including plenary talks, interactive workshops, and breakouts, the conference's first day offered a wealth of knowledge to enhance the impact on cotton farming communities.
The theme ‘Putting People First’ highlighted Better Cotton’s dedication to prioritising farmers and farm workers. Sessions challenged participants to consider ensuring a living income and decent work for cotton farming communities. AartiKapoor, Founder and Executive Director, Embode, delivered a powerful keynote on driving positive impact across supply chains through a collective vision for the cotton value chain.
Lars Van Doremalen, Impact Director, Better Cotton, discussed the importance of farmer income, sharing insights from a study in India. LeylaShamchiyeva, Senior Decent Work Manager, Better Cotton, emphasisedon addressing the root causes of issues like poverty and lack of rights awareness by connecting communities to social safety nets.
The afternoon sessions focused on ‘Driving Change at Field Level,’ covering topics from regenerative agriculture to the role of fertiliSers in a warming climate. A panel discussion featuring Laila Petrie of 2050 and Gray Maguire of Anthesis, moderatedby Lewis Perkins of the Apparel Impact Institute, delved into carbon markets and their impact on farmers, using the 'Unlock' Project as a case study.
Field-level representatives from India, Tajikistan, and the US shared their experiences with regenerative agricultural practices, offering diverse perspectives on field-level progress on farms of all sizes.The second day began with a focus on ‘Understanding Policy and Industry Trends,’ examining major developments in the sector and their impact on cotton supply chains. VidhuraRalapanawe, Executive Vice President -Innovation and Sustainability, Epic Group, delivered a keynote urging transformative change in the cotton industry, moving beyond legislative demands to collective action.
The conference concluded with a session on Pakistan’s First Mile Traceability pilot, moderated by HinaFouzia, Director, Better Cotton Pakistan. Participants discussed challenges of internet and technology access, Better Cotton’s support in adoption, and the need for constant result reviews to drive improvements.
Textile mills were the hardest hit as the US manufacturing sector lost approximately 8,000 jobs in June this year, as reported by the Bureau of Labor Statistics (BLS).
Based on a survey of purchasing and supply executives across sectors including textile mills, apparel, leather and allied products, the Institute for Supply Management’s latest Manufacturing ISM Report on Business, reveals, not just new orders but production and employment also tightened during the month.
Manufacturing activity in the US contracted at the close of the second quarter, states Timothy R. Fiore, Chairperson, ISM Manufacturing Business Survey Committee. Weak demand, declining output, and accommodating inputs emerged as the key trends during the quarter, he adds.
The Manufacturing PMI stood at 48.5 percent in June, a 0.2 percentage point drop from May. Despite this, the index remained above 42.5 percent for 50 months, except for a dip in April 2020, indicating overall economic expansion over this period, Fiore highlights.
Textile mills reported higher inventories in June, contrary to the broader trend of lower manufacturer-held inventory. Both apparel and leather goods producers, along with textile mills, indicated that customer inventories were ‘too high’ last month.
The New Orders Index fell to 49.3 percent in June, below the growth threshold but above May’s 45.4 percent. Textile mills reported a decline in new orders. ‘Panelists’ comments noted continued uncertainty and cautiousness as new order levels and customer inventory accounts continue to underperform, adds Fiore.
Order backlogs continued to decline, a trend persisting for 21 months, while the ISM Production Index dropped to 48.5 percent in June from 50.2 percent in May. Textile mills and fabric producers reported lower production, mirroring the broader decline.
Employment also declined to 49.3 percent from May’s 51.1 percent. Textile firms were among those reducing employment through hiring freezes, layoffs, and other methods.
Rising raw material prices added to economic pressures, with the ISM Prices Index reflecting six months of growth in June. However, growth slowed from 57 percent in May to 52.1 percent in June.y.”
Scott Paul, President, Alliance for American Manufacturing echoes, as seen from the June figures, the combination of an overly strong dollar and high interest rates is dampening the growth in factory jobs. Until the Federal Reserve changes course, factory sector will continue to remain stalled, he adds.
Giny Boer, CEO, C&A, Europe has resigned from her position in the company to ‘pursue non-executive opportunities. ’She has been temporarily replaced with Edward Brenninkmeijer as the new CEO, while the company searches for Boer’s long-term successor.
Following her roles at Dutch wholesaler Geertjes and Swedish retail giant IKEA, Boer joined C&A in 2021. She was responsible for guiding the company through the aftermath of the COVID-19 pandemic, initiating the renovation of over 800 stores, and preparing C&A for its ‘next phase of transformation.
Edward Brenninkmeijer, who previously managed C&A Europe and served as interim CEO for C&A operations in Brazil, Mexico, and China, will step in as CEO.
In 2023, C&A partnered with Coats Digital to enhance its sourcing processes, aiming to implement uniform time, method, cost, and capacity forecasting across its supplier network.
The prolonged gas crisis in Bangladesh is causing severe production issues for textile and spinning mills in Bangladesh, leading them to increase yarn imports by 13 per cent.
Data from Bangladesh Bank shows, between July and April of the current fiscal year, apparel makers in Bangladesh increased their yarn imports from 2.34 billion in the same period previous year to $2.64 billion this year
Apparel exporters in Bangladesh are currently facing a dual challenge: local mills are being compelled toincrease imports despite a dollar shortage whilethe gas crisis has drastically reduced gas pressure, crippling production in the country.
As Bangladesh Textile Mills Association (BTMA) notes, around 70-80 per cent of mills in the country are operating at about only 40 per cent capacity.
RajibHaider, Managing Director, Outpace Spinning Mills, highlights, production in the country dropped below 40 per cent capacity due to the worsening gas crisis over the past month. This issue is particularly acute in areas like Tongi, Joydebpur, Sreepur, and others.
Expressing concern over meeting supply deadlines due to reduced gas supply, Mohammad Ali Khokon, President, BTMA says, this has increased production costs and decreased cash flow, making it hard to pay workers on time. Additionally, disruptions in gas and electricity have impacted RMG factories.
Mohammad Hatem, Executive President, Bangladesh Knitwear Manufacturers and Exporters Association (BKMEA), notes, though gas pressure in Narayanganj recently increased to 3-4 PSI, it is still insufficient for full operation and is affecting dyeing factories.
A central bank circular on June 30 reduced the cash incentive for local export-oriented textile mills from 3 per cent to 1.5 per cent. This effective rate of 1.2 per cent makes imported yarn more attractive due to lower costs and fewer hurdles in obtaining incentives.
BTMA officials argue that locally-made yarn is cheaper when considering production and cotton import costs. They have called for a return to previous gas prices until the crisis is resolved, as the current supply issues are causing significant operational disruptions.
The rise in low-cost Chinese imports and disruptions in global supply chains are posing significant challenges to the Indonesian textile industry. Indonesia’s market share in thedomestic textile industry is dwindling as exports to the global markets are on a decline, notes ShintaKamdani, the General Chair, Indonesian Employers’ Association. These issues are being further exacerbated by the falling value of the rupiah, she adds.
As per a report, Indonesia closed down around 21 textile factories in 2023. This resulted in the loss of 150,000 jobs at large and medium-sized facilities. An additional 31 factories are at risk of shutting down. Redma Gita Wirawasta, Chairman, Indonesian Fibre and Filament Yarn Producers Association (APsyFI), states, textile factories in the country are currently operating at 72 percent capacity due to the industry's decline.
Wirawasta attributes the increase in textile imports from China to factors such as the COVID-19 pandemic and the ASEAN-China Free Trade Agreement. The ongoing Ukraine conflict has further disrupted the market, she says.
Nandi Herdiaman, Chairman, IkatanPengusahaKonveksiBerkarya (IPKB), affirms,60 percent of small and medium-sized enterprises in the sector have ceased operations. Those still operating are running well below capacity, amid fears that imported products are dominating both offline and online domestic markets.
Both APsyFI and the Indonesian Employers’ Association have also raised concerns over the depreciation of the rupiah against the US dollar, which is worsening the industry's challenges.
Despite these setbacks, Indonesia’s viscose fiber industry has shown promising growth, driven by changing global consumption patterns and significant investments in domestic production capacity. In early 2024, efforts were made to strengthen bilateral trade ties between Indonesia and Bangladesh, particularly in the apparel and textile sectors, reflecting current regional economic dynamics.
To enhance the effectiveness of its Materials Impact Explorer (MIE) tool, global non-profit Textile Exchange has introduced a new category for manmade cellulosic fibers (MMCF), besides adding risk categories for air pollution and forests.
This expansion was achieved in collaboration with several expert organisations including the Apparel Impact Institute (AII), Canopy, Conservation International, Rainforest Alliance, Risilience, The Nature Conservancy, Sebastián Block – Environmental Performance Index, Yale University, World Resources Institute, and ZDHC Foundation.
Designed for brands, retailers, and suppliers, the MIE tool focuses on the early stages of the value chain, such as farms, forests, or industrial facilities. It enables users to assess potential impacts and dependencies at the raw material country of origin level.
Highlighting the tool's relevance for the industry, Veronique Rochet, Senior Director –Sustainability, Puma, remarks, the MIE tool by Textile Exchange helps Puma determine the biodiversity risk assessment of its key raw materials such as such as polyester and cotton.
A Northeast-based company, Impulse Empower showcased their ethical and eco-friendly Eri silk at the three events, Texworld Paris, Avantex, and Apparel Sourcing, held concurrently from July 1 to 3, held at Paris Porte de Versailles.
The events granted visitors with an opportunity to interact with HusnaraKharbhih, Brand Ambassador, Impulse Empower and explore the beauty and sustainability of organic, non-violent, and naturally dyed silk, which supports the eight Northeastern states of India.
Participants from around the world experienced the unique qualities of Eri silk, known for keeping wearers cool in summer and warm in winter.
For the past 17 years, Impulse Empower has highlighted the intersection of tradition and sustainability in fashion on a global stage, offering visitors the chance to engage with high-quality, eco-friendly textiles and join a movement towards more responsible fashion choices.
The North Eastern Handicrafts and Handlooms Development Corporation (NEHHDC) hadmobilised 14 entrepreneurs from the Northeast Region (NER) to participate in Texworld Paris 2024.
Undertaken by the Ministry of Development of North Eastern Region (MoDONER), this initiative aimed to promote indigenous silks and textiles from the NER by introducing sustainable offerings to the European market and boosting exports.
The representation of handicrafts and handlooms on the international stage helped promote Northeast regional craftsmanship and sustainability.
To enhance the quality of human resources in the textile and textile product industry, the Ministry of Industry in Indonesia plans to organise 3-in-1 training programs, informs AgusGumiwangKartasasmita, Industry Minister.
To be organisedthrough the Industrial Human Resources Development Agency (BPSDMI), the program aims to provide training, certification, and job placements in the industry.
Focused on sewing operator training, one of the 3-in-1 training programswill be conducted in collaboration with PT Globalindo Intimates, a women's innerwear manufacturer that operates a 32,000-sq-m facility and employs up to 3,600 workers, Masrokhan, Head, BPSDMI, points out.
The program would meet the domestic human resource needs of the textile industry, thereby increasing its contribution to the growth of foreign exchange, hopes Masrokhan
The textile and textile product industry in Indonesia contributed 5.84 percent to the GDP of the manufacturing sector and generated US$11.6 billion in national exports, with a surplus of $3.2 billion. The industry employed over 3.98 million workers, accounting for 19.47 percent of the total manufacturing workforce in 2023.
Valued at $288 billion in 2023, the global plus size market is projected to grow at a CAGR of 5.7 per cent to reach $501.35 billion by 2033. This market expansion is likely to be driven by the body positivity movement, shifting fashion norms, and increased consumer awareness.
The body positivity movement has significantly boosted demand for plus size clothing, promoting inclusion and celebrating all body types. This shift encourages people to embrace their bodies and seek attractive clothing options. Additionally, fashion norms have evolved to prioritize diversity and openness, with designers and retailers offering trendy plus size clothing that meets the fashion-forward demands of plus size individuals.
Consumer awareness has also increased with plus size individuals seeking clothing that reflects their personal style while providing comfort. This vocal demand for well-fitting, stylish plus size clothing is driving market growth. However, the industry faces challenges such as inconsistent sizing and limited retail availability. Many physical stores offer a limited range of larger sizes, making it difficult for plus size consumers to find diverse products, which affects their shopping experience. Additionally, brand inconsistencies in sizing make finding the right fit challenging, leading to frustration and dissatisfaction with online shopping.
Despite these constraints, the plus size clothing market presents significant opportunities for expansion and innovation. eCommerce platforms allow manufacturers to reach a wider audience, offering various sizes and designs for a comfortable and inclusive shopping experience.
Customisation options also enable plus size individuals to create clothing tailored to their unique body types and preferences, enhancing customer satisfaction and loyalty.
In 2023, the United States held a 40 per cent share of the plus size clothing market, followed by the United Kingdom at 14 per cent, China at 20 per cent, Japan at 10 per cent, and South Korea at 5 pre cent. The casual wear category leads the market with a CAGR of 4.8 per cent, while the mid-priced segment is expected to dominate during the forecast period.
The competitive landscape includes established fashion brands, dedicated plus size brands, online retailers, boutique and independent brands, and influencer collaborations. Established brands leverage their reputation and resources to offer trendy options, while dedicated brands focus exclusively on plus size consumers, providing personalised shopping experiences. Online retailers offer convenience and inclusivity, while boutique brands prioritise quality and individuality. Influencer collaborations promote body positivity and reach wider audiences, driving growth in the plus size clothing market.
To be held from September 19-21, 2024 at the Shanghai New International Expo Centre, CinteTechtextil China will align closely with Messe Frankfurt’s ‘TexpertiseEconogy’ initiative, which emphasises sustainability across its more than 50 global textile trade shows. The fair will feature new energy elements, such as battery and hydrogen technologies, showcased in the Innovation Showcase Area, alongside various interactive fringe events centered on sustainability.
CinteTechtextil China spans 12 application areas, covering a comprehensive range of modern technical textiles and nonwovens. These categories include everything from upstream technology and raw materials to finished fabrics, chemicals, and other solutions, making the fair a valuable business platform for the entire industry.
As a hub for innovation and exchange, the fair will bring together upstream and downstream players from China and beyond, facilitating collaboration across the value chain. Alongside numerous domestic suppliers, the upcoming edition will feature a strong lineup of international exhibitors. Organised by Messe Frankfurt (HK), the Sub-Council of Textile Industry, CCPIT, and the China Nonwovens & Industrial Textiles Association (CNITA), the event is set to drive forward the industry’s focus on innovation and sustainability.
The landscape of technical textiles and nonwovens is constantly evolving, creating new opportunities for the industry in Asia and beyond. Recent studies predict robust growth in these global markets, driven by technological advancements and increasing demand in sectors such as automotive, construction, and healthcare. The positive outlook is boosted by China’s and other Asian countries’ intensified efforts to adopt green practices. Notably, the demand for lightweight carbon fiber in China is booming, spurred by sustainability-aligned applications like wind turbine blades and reduced emissions in automobiles. Global R&D efforts are also underway to improve the cost-efficiency and eco-friendliness of carbon fiber.
As Asia’s leading trade fair for technical textiles and nonwovens, CinteTechtextil China attracts both domestic and international buyers due to its strategic location near APAC hotspots and its extensive range of product applications.
