FW
Pakistan lacks a cotton standardisation system. Despite being the fourth largest cotton producing country in the world, Pakistan’s cotton considered as one of the most contaminated crops in the world. Losses due to cotton contamination run to millions of dollars. If proper standardisation is followed, over 45 per cent of Pakistani cotton would be traded at premium. Pakistan's cotton is inherently of good quality and a six-year survey reveals that only 8 to 10 per cent cotton falls in grade IV.
Cotton is traded on a weight basis and farmers are only interested in high yields. They give no attention to quality parameters and clean picking. Pickers on the other hand are paid for quantity of cotton picked in a day, regardless of the trash content. On the other hand, ginners mix high quality and contaminated cotton to get a blend that loses its value.
Indeed textile mills have installed cleaning equipment in their mills but have paid no attention to clean cotton production and standardisation. For spinning they use the cheapest cotton. For quality production they import cotton from India or other countries but are reluctant to pay more for quality from Pakistani farmers.
Indian yarn exports to China have been sluggish since May 2014, falling year on year, however, there has been a little rebound in May 2015. In June 2015, exports jumped 105 per cent in volume and 80 per cent in value terms. The sudden rise can be attributed to relatively higher domestic prices compared to imported goods. The other factors include: firm cotton prices and prevailing state cotton reserve policy.
In June, 83 countries imported spun yarn from India with China topping and accounting for 40 per cent of the total. Bangladesh, the second largest importer of spun yarns, accounted for 11 per cent of all spun yarn exported from India. However, exports to Bangladesh declined one per cent in volume and 10 per cent in value terms. Egypt continued to be the third largest importer of spun yarns, with volume and value both down year on year. These three top importers together accounted for more than half of spun yarn exported from India in June.
In June India acquired four new markets including Honduras, Paraguay, Singapore and Kuwait. They together imported 1.90 million dollars worth of spun yarns. Romania, Norway, Philippines, Argentina, Malawi, New Zealand and Hong Kong were among the fastest growing markets in June, doubling their imports from India.
CBI is said to have registered three cases against officials of the Cotton Corporation of India (CCI) and Agricultural Marketing Committees of some districts in Andhra Pradesh for releasing payment to middlemen based on forged documents.
CBI sources said R Jeya Kumar, then Branch Manager of CCI in Guntur, Rayapati Purnachandra Rao, D Rajasekhar Reddy, G Varun Raghuveer -- all three cotton purchasers and CCI centre in-charges of Guntur Nandigama and Mylavarama have been named in the cases.
According to the CBI officials, the accused allegedly procured 11.75 lakh quintals; 9.07 lakh quintals and 3.13 lakh quintals of cotton on different occasions from middlemen instead of cotton growers or farmers at notified marketing yards of Agricultural Marketing Committees ( AMC) under Minimum Support Price operations during the crop season 2014-15. The officers in question also issued fake consolidated certificates to the effect that the cotton kapas were purchased from bona fide farmers at the marketing yards of their respective AMCs.
The CBI raided residences and office premises of the accused at 18 places including Guntur, Krishna, West Godavari and Prakasam Districts in Andhra Pradesh and also in Tamil Nadu, and found several documents supporting the allegations.
Cotcorp.gov.in
For the very first time at an Intertextile Shanghai Apparel Fabrics fair, the entire supply chain for a product category will be on display in the same area. The fair as a whole is the largest apparel fabrics and accessories event, and takes place at the brand-new National Exhibition and Convention Center in Shanghai from October 13-15. The Beyond Denim hall will house denim yarns, fabrics, garments, accessories and machinery to become a true one-stop global platform, and has been re-designed with a special denim style by American design studio Doneger Creative Services.
Messe Frankfurt’s Senior General Manager, Wendy Wen says the re-designed and significantly larger area will be a major draw for buyers. “The premium product areas of Intertextile Shanghai are already well-known in the industry and attract a lot of high-end buyers from around the world, including SalonEurope, the Milano Unica Pavilion, the Premium Wool Zone and Verve for Design. We believe with the changes we have made to the Beyond Denim concept, including the fact buyers can now find everything in this sector under one roof, this will elevate this area to the same reputation in the industry these others have.”
First held at the 2014 Autumn Edition, Beyond Denim expands in size this year by over 70 per cent as a wider range of exhibitors participate. This includes a large number of ready-to-wear denim suppliers from CHIC, the concurrent fashion garment fair. Doneger Creative Services has also created a Denim Forum which will showcase different denim products, trends and technology, and features five trend themes: Dwell, Western, Cyber, Artisan and Wanderer.
Amongst the many exhibitors taking part in this hall is a debut Italian company, as well as two Hong Kong suppliers. SEI S.p.A Italy will showcase its unique ‘Flexi Denim’ laser system which includes proprietary technology that allows for production speeds of up to three times faster than other machines with the same laser capacity. This system can substitute traditional methods of stone washing, whiskering, fading, sanding, ripping and more on denim and finished garments.
Lucky Textiles Group, Hong Kong specialises in corduroy, twill and denim products, and will feature products with features such as nanotech, iron-free (high & low temperatures), water & oil repellence, anti-pollution protection and more. H.W. Textiles, Hong Kong is a joint venture company with Japanese firm Kurabo. They boast spinning, dyeing and finishing capabilities, and will feature their Kuga, Rogi, Flexi, Vintage and Boy Friend Denim collections at the fair.
Many of China’s leading fabric and garment suppliers will also feature at the fair, including Advance Denim, Benjie Textile, Black Peony Group, Foshan Huafeng Textile, Foshan Lisheng Textile, Foshan Seazon Textile and Garment, Freedom Denim, Panther Textiles Holding, Prosperity Textiles, Shan Dong Dai Yin Textile Group and Zibo Haitian Textile.
Asian pavilions to the best Buyers looking to discover new and innovative products can find them in six country and region pavilions from India, Indonesia, Japan, Korea, Taiwan and Thailand. The Japan Pavilion promises to be one of the most innovative at the fair, with a number of exhibitors among the 36 participants showcasing state-of-the-art products and technologies according to Akira Kawashima, Senior Director, Textile Division of the Japan Fashion Week Organization, organisers of the pavilion.
The Taiwan Pavilion, organised by the Taiwan Textile Federation, will also be home to some innovative and unique products. Far Eastern New Century Corp is focusing on sustainable, smart-textile and multifunctional fabric ranges, which includes anti-static heat-generating fabrics, quick-dry fabrics and stretchable and lightweight eco fabrics. Singtex Industrial, meanwhile, are exhibiting their award-winning P4DRY fabric which is made by printing ground coffee onto the cloth to absorb moisture and reduce odours. And their AIRMEM eco-friendly biofilm uses modified coffee oil and hydrophilic agents to improve moisture permeability and water repellency.
While Korean suppliers are known for their innovative and functional fabrics, they also place much emphasis on the latest trends as Yoon Young-Sang, Vice Chairman of pavilion organiser Korea Fashion Textile Association explains. “Korean products at the fair will reflect the trend sentiments, which for Autumn / Winter include fabrics of natural texture and natural fabrics with functionality. Functional fabrics from Korea have excellent value for money, and are drawing a lot of attention, particularly for sportswear and casualwear.”
Eight Group Pavilions added attraction
In addition to innovative products from Asia, cutting-edge fabrics can be found in the eight Group Pavilions to feature at this year’s fair. The pavilions, which are organised by leading fibre and yarn companies and feature their partner mills, include Birla Cellulose (Grasim), DuPont, Hyosung, Invista, the Korea Chemical Fibers Association (KCFA), the Korea Textile Trade Association (KTTA), Lenzing and Oeko-Tex. All pavilions are housed in hall 5.2, including the Oeko-Tex Pavilion which features in the All About Sustainability zone. Always a popular stop for buyers to discover cutting-edge products is the Lenzing Pavilion, which returns again to this edition 10 years after first appearing.
Fringe programs and concurrent events
Thanks to a huge range of concurrent fairs and fringe programme events, Shanghai will be the centre of the global textile industry in October. With three well-established concurrent fairs taking place in the same venue – Yarn Expo Autumn, CHIC and PH Value – the entire textile supply chain is now covered, and has already shown at the Spring Edition the strong synergy effects for both exhibitors and visitors this brings. Also on the second day of the fair on October 14, Planet Textiles 2015: The Sustainable Textile Event will take place, featuring some of the industry’s foremost experts as speakers.
Fairgoers can also discover the latest trends and gain market updates through the fair’s fringe programme. This includes the Intertextile Directions Trend Forum, Fabrics China Trend Forums, China International Fabrics Design & Fabrics Creation Competition, and a wide range of seminars and product presentations.
Intertextile Shanghai Apparel Fabrics – Autumn Edition 2015 is co-organised by Messe Frankfurt (HK); the Sub-Council of Textile Industry, CCPIT; and the China Textile Information Centre.
Bangladesh is pressing the US to restore GSP facilities and allow duty and quota-free access to American market. Bangladesh feels it has made progress in ensuring workers’ rights and safety with the government committed to making apparels a clean, dignified and productive sector.
Bangladesh feels that as an LDC it does not enjoy any special or differential treatment from the US in terms of trade while preferential treatment is enjoyed by Trans-Pacific partners who might chip away the competitive edge of a country like Bangladesh in the US market.
Bangladesh apparels are subject to high tariff in the US while these apparels are exported at zero tariff to almost all other developed countries in the world. Following a continuous negative growth in 2014 Bangladesh’s readymade garment exports to the US started to rebound in January to March 2015.
Vietnam is Bangladesh’s main competitor in the apparel trade. Bangladesh’s garment exports to the American market are not expected to be affected by the proposed Trans-Pacific Partnership. The reason: the country is performing well now even after paying a higher duty than Vietnam. Currently, Bangladesh is the sixth largest garment exporter to the US and Vietnam is the third largest.
Estimates of India's cotton production have been kept unchanged at 382.75 lakh bales for the 2014-15 marketing year ending September. Production stood at 40 million bales during 2013-14. The Cotton Corporation of India (CCI) has procured about 8.7 million bales to provide price support to farmers but has not been able to sell the stocks.
The pace at which the commodity is being disposed, a sizable quantity is likely to remain unsold at the end of the season. This augurs badly for the country and apprehensions of a major support price operation at the beginning of the next cotton season are looming large.
China is holding stock equivalent to its consumption of about two years and is finding difficulty in liquidating it. India needs to learn a lesson from the mistakes China made and dispose off the cotton lying with CCI quickly, to avoid getting into a China-like situation.
The projected balance sheet drawn by the CAI for 2014-15, estimates total cotton supply at 453.65 lakh bales while domestic consumption is estimated at 31.5 million bales. CCI started procurement operations at the support price from October 2014 to protect farmers from the sharp decline in domestic prices in view of expected higher production.
Gruppocinque, an Italian company known for woven plain, piece dyed and jacquards has come up with Newlife collection, a chemical-free textile produced from plastic bottles. The company produces high quality fabrics, made with creativity, based on select raw materials. The Newlife collection is dedicated to women’s contemporary fashion aesthetics.
This line features new wool and silk combinations with Newlife in textures, double cloths, reversibles, astrakhan and faux knit structures. It features fleece effect finishes mix with geometric jacquards and micro patterned silk blends while tessellated and classic checked settings create movement and drama.
The latest technical research in new finishes, touches and skin-feel have been given an unusual optic through unique yarn dye combinations and new structures. Instead of common plainness of piece dyed fabrics a new and subversive 3D reflective subtlety is created through a balanced contrast of yarns, lusters and colors. Using ultra-fine nylons with super-light cottons and silks, new super-sophisticated effects emerge, that are at once unique, subtle and rich.
This new perception of colors combines naturals with eco-smarts and techno coolness. A smart contemporary interpretation of nature is re-imagined through a new mix of colors, textures and patterns.
www.gruppo-cinque.com/
The Alliance for Bangladesh Worker Safety has elected Tapan Chowdhury, founder of Square Textiles and former president of the Dhaka Metropolitan Chamber of Commerce and Industry, and Simone Sultana, Chair of BRAC UK, to serve on its board of directors. The realignment of the board reflects the focus on strategic engagement.
The Alliance board of advisors provides expertise and counsel to the Alliance board of directors and senior leadership. And the membership relies on their guidance and counsel to bring about safe working conditions for garment factory workers in Bangladesh. Alliance for Bangladesh Worker Safety was founded by a group of North American apparel companies and retailers and brands in 2013 after the Rana Plaza tragedy. It is a binding five-year undertaking that will be transparent, results-oriented, measurable and verifiable with the intent of improving safety in Bangladeshi ready-made garment factories.
Collectively, these Alliance members represent the overwhelming majority of North American imports of readymade garments from Bangladesh, produced at more than 580 factories. Alliance also elected two new members to its board of advisors: Rumee Ali, Former MD of BRAC Enterprises & Investments and Vidiya Amrit Khan, Director, Desh Garments and Director of Bangladesh Garment Manufacturers and Exporters Association.
www.bangladeshworkersafety.org/
Orders for Italian textile machinery recorded a 15 per cent increase for the second quarter of 2015 over the same period last year. Domestic orders have risen by seven per cent compared to second quarter of 2014. Orders have made a definitive move in foreign markets, a 21 per cent increase over the same quarter for 2014.
Italy is showing signs of recovery as government incentives have contributed to this recovery. As for foreign markets, the first four months of the year confirm a recovery in various textile machinery importing countries. India, for one, has resumed its growth trend and there’s been a rise in exports to Bangladesh with EU markets also appearing to show good form. However, China has yet to show signs of recovery. Investments in machinery are still low compared to a year ago.
For years, Iran was a benchmark for Italy’s textile machinery industry. International sanctions effectively halted the flow of towards Iran. But the recent nuclear agreement opens up a window for a recovery in investments in textile technology by Iran’s textile sector. Meanwhile Italian exhibitors are preparing for ITMA 2015.
Home fashion business platform Ambiente India & Heimtextil India, held from June 25-27 at Pragati Maidan, New Delhi recorded an increase in business visitors in its second edition with 7,233 professionals from India and abroad. For three days, 162 exhibitors from seven countries presented their multifaceted decor, lifestyle and furnishing products to the Indian market across 11,000 sq. mtr. of exhibition space. Focused on interior décor, home textiles and furnishings, the strategically co-located fairs proved to be the perfect way to start off the Indian buying season.
Raj Manek, Executive Director and Board Member of Messe Frankfurt Asia Holding said, “Ambiente India & Heimtextil India accompanied by the several value-add fringe programs make it a specialised platform for the business of home fashion. The spectacular displays by our exhibitors have raised the bar for ingenuity and modernity in interior spaces while the growth in business visitor demonstrates the increasing attractiveness of the shows in India.”
Exhibitors at the fair not only reported a good experience in terms of networking but also business and order confirmations. Exhibitor Sonali Sharma, Executive Director, Thanor Pottery said, “This is the first time we are exhibiting at a trade fair and we chose Ambiente India because of the Messe Frankfurt brand. The visitor response has been simply brilliant with some of the major retail chains ready to place orders, give us mall space and close deals.”
Heimtextil India exhibitors echoed similar views. Ajay Arora, Managing Director, D’décor said, “We launched an entire new category of blinds besides unveiling the summer spring and Diwali collections at the show and the response has been overwhelming. There has been incessant traffic at our stall right from day one. The show is well timed for the Indian market and offers fabulous opportunities, economy of time and great networking.”
Added Gaurav Sureka, Director, Rumours, “Heimtextil India is a strong show for the domestic market. The footfall has been more than last year and we managed to achieve our targets in just two days. Whoever visited our stall didn’t leave without ordering. We will definitely not go without confirming our bookings for the 2016 edition.”
German company and Ambiente India exhibitor ritterwerk GmbH, in search of distribution partners in India, left assured with their interactions at the fair and are confident of finding a suitable corporation partner for business in the coming months. Heimtextil India exhibitor Negi Sign Systems & Supplies, who was demonstrating digital printing solutions for textiles also reported good business during the fair.
Looking for products in the home and lifestyle segment, Calvin Wooly, Global Supplier Development Leader, Textiles, Ikea Services India, who visited the fair, said, “Ambiente India and Heimtextil India fairs are good opportunity from a local perspective to meet domestic suppliers. This is the most appropriate time for us to come here. We are looking into new segments and both the shows give us the scope to source for more products in India.”
Brands unveil 2015-16 collections
Attracting retailers, interior designers, project planners, buying agents and e-commerce majors from across India, the co-joined fairs witnessed an enthusiastic response from trade visitors to the latest product lines, innovations and trends. The extensive product showcase was further enlivened by the season’s new collections such as 2015 Diwali collection by D’décor, digitally printed and patented Warner Bros collection by Dicitex, fashion roller blinds by Dimora, 12 shade cards by Jaydurga Décor, digital weaving machine by Norindic, newly launched digital textile printing machines by Negi Sign Systems, award winning household appliances by ritterwek GmbH, stone art by Australian artist Gaurav Khanna for Pikscape and 24 karat gold and platinum plated dining products by Grey Rose, among many others.
Stressing on the constant need for innovation in décor, Manish Gajjar, Product Head – Home Décor, Borosil Glassworks said, “The Indian home products market is worth more than Rs 5,000 crores and will only grow. Everyone likes décor and spends on it according to their spending capacity. It is important to bring in new products and innovations in the segment to keep consumers’ interest running. Borosil this year launched products for dining and décor segments and the visitor response to the products has been really good.”
Interior Lifestyle Awards & Experience Zone
The twin fairs teamed up for the launch of the Interior Lifestyle Awards (ILA), the new launch pad for aspiring Indian designers willing to prove their creative mettle on an international platform. After evaluating over 400 entries from across the country, the jury selected eight contestants for the final round. The contestants created interior spaces on the themes like Collision by Sahil Bagga, Sarthak Sen, Jasleen Supreet, Infinity by Joya Nandurdikar & Amrita Guha, Introspection by Poonam Nimesh Parekh & Prashant Chauhan and Phoenix by Vandana Agarwal, Anar Patel & Ayush Kasliwal. Vandana Agarwal, Anar Patel & Ayush Kasliwal were announced winners and awarded at the ILA Gala Night. All the three winners will fly down to Frankfurt to display their concepts at Ambiente & Heimtextil - the world’s most renowned consumer goods and home textiles shows that set next season’s furnishing and design trends internationally.
Also a big hit with the trade visitors, this year, was the Experience Zone demonstrating exciting themes in interior spaces that can inspire and be converted into commercial concepts. Sunil Sethi, President, Fashion Design Council of India said, “The ILA experience zone is something nobody should miss. Every contestant has put in their best effort. I have seen their creative skills and they are at par with anyone else in the world. We needed a Heimtextil and an Ambiente in India and this gives an impression of what there is for the best.”
Sustainability in home textiles
Sustainability - a topic that is gaining much attention globally was taken up at Heimtextil India in an exclusive seminar open to industry professionals visiting the fair. Bringing sector specialists to address the audience, the seminar dealt with important topics of organics in home textile industry, sustainable fibre production and processing, recycled polyester fibers, innovations in dyes & chemicals among others.
An important highlight of the seminar was the panel discussion on ‘Sustainability from Fibre to Textile – Challenges and Way Forward’ which offered a great opportunity to the audience to discuss the issues related to sustainability to further increase their understanding of the subject.
Another highlight of the event was ‘Live Sessions’ covering vital topics in interior designing such as ‘Window Dressing, Creative Textiles and the Role of Interior Décor and Furnishing in dressing your home for optimum design and functionality’.
The next editions of the fairs will return to New Delhi from June 22 to 24, 2016 with a host of new innovations in interior design, lifestyle, homeware, textiles, furnishing, fabrics and décor.
